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Crash Dummy

Member
  • Posts

    11
  • Joined

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Newcastle, NSW, Australia
  • Interests
    I.T stuff, cars, motorcycles

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7 6700K
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z170A Gaming M5
  • RAM
    G.Skill F4-2400C15-8GVR 2x 8GB
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X 8G
  • Case
    Cooler Master Silencio 452 Case
  • PSU
    Coolermaster 750w (no idea what)
  • Display(s)
    Samsung SE790C (34" Ultrawide 3440x1440)
  • Cooling
    Coolermaster Nepton 240M AIO liquid cooler
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Professional

Crash Dummy's Achievements

  1. It's there for me. Youtube often takes a little bit of time before you can see the streamed video appear in the uploads list. The part that has me scratching my head is. "1 week ago" ? Hey Linus and Luke. If you do see this. I actually didn't have a problem with what you guys were saying. You just can't please everyone.
  2. Commodore 64C that was purchased in 1989. MOS Technologies 6510 CPU at 1Mhz 64KB RAM + 20KB ROM VIC-II Graphics 320x200 16 colours Etc etc I had a 1571 disk drive. Boy life was good in 1989.
  3. I'm another member of the Gigabyte GA-X79-UD3 club and I can confirm the BCLK strap is broken. And on that note. I've just gone from a i7 3820 that I used to run at 4.3ghz and changed over to a Xeon E5-2867W (8c16t) 3.1ghz base clock, turbo varies between 3.8 down to 3.2ghz depending on how many cores are active. Attached is the results from Cinebench R15. I'm pretty happy with this. The used Ryzen market get Australia is non-existant and when I've got some cool old hardware that still gets the job done, a budget upgrade was on the cards. Before anyone says but IPC, but bottlenecks, I'm not running a RTX2080 in this. The CPU is not a bottleneck for anything I do. Infact I don't think the i7 3820 when overclocked even was, however the i7 was starting to get flaky when overclocked when it had previously been stable. Turning back the clock, I originally upgraded from the X79 and i7 3820 to a Z170A and i7 6700k. That was not a worthwhile upgrade. Hindsight is 20/20.
  4. Try downloading the tool "Windirstat" and point it at the root directory of "D:" ,let it run and show us the result. That'll show you exactly where your space has gone.
  5. For the budget and intended purpose I'm going to go with R3 2200G on a A320 board. Forget buying a dedicated graphics card. That's just blowing money for nothing unless you need support for extra monitors. The R3 2200G will do great for your work load and is fine for light gaming. Most over estimate the CPU needed for a work PC.Don't sweat it. The real gains are had with saving on buying a low end dedicated GPU and if you have any budget remaining, buy a bigger or better SSD.
  6. Prime95 is super sensitive to instability. Any instability or failure will result in a termination of the test At the end of the day if your CPU passes every other test but you come back to Prime95 and it fails, try dropping your clock speed by 100Mhz. if it passed then, you're stable and the rest of the applications failed to pickup on the instability.
  7. I'm going from a i7 950 up to a Intel Xeon W3680 for the grand total of $55.88usd delivered. I haven't taken overclocking ability into consideration but as far as I'm concerned the base clock increase and 2 extra cores is a substantial upgrade for the price of a meal at a nice restaurant. IPC is obviously not fantastic compared to a brand new CPU but I have confidence that this will still spank the Ryzen 5 2400G in my "main" PC for every day usage for outright grunt. So yes. It's worth upgrading. Grab the best CPU you can afford for your motherboard. Remember. It's only not worth using anymore if it won't do what you need it to do. *Edit* My CPU upgrade choice is based on the OEM list of known compatible CPU's. The W3690 is the highest clocked highest core CPU for my board but was significantly higher in price for 110Mhz (iirc) so I went the next best option at near half the price which is 3.33ghz 6c12t.
  8. The most recent game that sucked me in good and proper with it's story line and gameplay. *gasp* Doki Doki Literature Club. Apart from that. Soma
  9. I just used DBAN (Darik's Boot and Nuke) on a pair of hard drives which I was sending back for RMA where I've done a simple single pass zero. The drives were too unhealthy to do a 3 pass DOD wipe. It works. If the drives are going in the bin, invest in a cheap drill press and some drill bits and drill the crap out of the drives so the platters are utterly useless. Unless someone wants to forensically recover data from the raw platters they won't get anything. If someone really was that keen they're still going to get so little data that it won't be worth their time.
  10. So annoyingly bent pins in the socket is a warranty void situation. Best you can do is to try straighten them. I recommend using a tooth pick and go real slow and steady. If you break a pin. Go to another room in the house, sit in the dark and cry. Then go back, try the CPU anyway as a bunch of pins are unused, you might get lucky and find it still works.
  11. While I can't comment on your ability to downgrade the BIOS one thing I'll say is Turtle Rig is pretty much on point here. If you can set your config to allow all cores to turbo to 4Ghz just go with that. I spent the big bucks when the hardware was new to get a 6700K and a MSI Z170A Gaming M5 motherboard. For all my trouble I got 4.4Ghz with a huge bump in v-core from the stock 4.0ghz from the K processor. The difference between 4.0 and 4.4Ghz is so minimal that for the extra energy consumption and heat produced it's very hard for me to justify even running at the overclocked speed. If you can get even close to 4ghz without having to spend any money just go with that option. Spending money on this now ageing platform is money wasted. (WOOHOO my first post ever on LTT!)
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