Jump to content

Hiro Hamada

Member
  • Posts

    230
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Hiro Hamada

  1. 19 minutes ago, mr fobs said:

    When you send the motherboard to the service center take everything off/out of it that isn't part of the Motherboard. CPU, RAM, M.2. Unless they request everything.

    They requested to send the cpu and RAM attached to the mobo. I took pictures of the serial numbers of the cpu, RAM and mobo just in case they send something else back

  2. 4 minutes ago, MR H. said:

    I don't know the pricing where you live, but over here only to take a look(diagnostic) it's around 40€ if you decide not to fix it 
    Testing+ fixing+hours needed might be more expensive than getting another motherboard.

     

    Covid hit us all...
     

    That is a lot! Here, the guy told me it's gonna cost me 30% of the cost of the mobo for fixing it

  3. 1 minute ago, MR H. said:

    What it means is that the most part of the motherboards have a tiny "operating system" that try to check itself and check the components

     

    If you remove the CPU, maybe will try to boot and beep on the speaker()if its connected)

     

    That should confirm that there is no short circuit on the CPU

    No sign of anything when powered on after i removed the cpu

  4. 4 minutes ago, mr fobs said:

    power-on self-test Its a term used to signify what happens before the computer gets to the bios splash screen.

    Ok yeah the motherboard doesn't light up even if cpu is removed so it's definitely a sign on a dead mobo. I just watched videos of mobos turning on without RAM or cpu. I guess mine is totally dead

  5. 1 minute ago, MR H. said:

    That doesn't mean that it's delivering the voltage that a motherboard need

    It means that it's able to start, but maybe it isn't delivering voltaje on any of the needed volts


    You will need something like this or another PSU to check it

     

    spacer.png

    I checked each of the 24pin with the multimeter. Each pin is delivering the exact volt as specified in the Corsair box. Thanks. This equipment looks fancy tho

  6. Just now, mr fobs said:

    If the power supply has a flipped protector that needs reset, it won't send any power. It might be worth a try if you haven;t tried already.

    I tested all the 24pin in the PSU with a multimeter. It's working fine. All I need to know is - Can a motherboard turn on/light up/beep even for a second if the cpu is removed from the socket? 

  7. 6 minutes ago, MR H. said:

    Did you try to reset your motherboard?

    Who knows, give it a shot

    Or find a friend and start swapping components(pretty risky)

    Warranty has already been expired. So I'm shipping the mobo to a service center so they can fix the problem. I'm afraid if the cpu is damaged and that could be the reason why the mobo isn't turning on

  8. I checked the PSU(Corsair TX750M) and it is working fine. My pc doesn't power on after a power outage in my area. My motherboard is MSI Z370A - Pro with Intel i7 8700K. I disconnected the motherboard and only plugged in my PSU, CPU and RAM and tried to power it on. No sign of anything 

     

    My question here is can a motherboard power on(the mystic light LED in the motherboard itself) even though the cpu is removed from the socket? If so, it did not even power on any LED light as shown in the picture(that white light)

     

     

    z370-a-pro-audio-3840.jpg

  9. I know this topic is a bit old to discuss but I wanted to know if there is anyway to access my phone storage as a seperate drive letter like all my other drives partitions in my PC. Now I've been reading blogs about Android telling that the versions after 4.0 did not have the USB Mass Storage option when connecting to the windows PC. So far many are telling it's absolutely not possible because android made sure of that even with USB debugging enabled. I don't even know what to call the *device* that's been connected to the PC as shown in the image - Galaxy J7 Max

     

    Is there any possible solution to access that device as a seperate drive like others (with letters, properties, partitions, NTFS/FAT32 etc)?

    20200822_182706.jpg

  10. 4 hours ago, Levent said:

    1-) you can't

    2-) you won't be able browse https websites and will break almost every type of encrypted communication.

     

    This sounds extremely dumb, may I ask what are you trying to do?

    1. Nothing is impossible. Maybe no one has figured it out yet

    2. I know

     

    It is dumb but yet I just got the idea of *what will happen if I removed time and date from windows?*. There is no electronic communication device that doesn't have time in it but yet nobody has cracked the software to remove the time from any device

  11. 4 hours ago, svmlegacy said:

    The time and date is very important for networking, and most programs. You could do it if you wrote your own OS and stuff, sure, but not with other people's software.

    I see. No one has ever tried this. But it would be ground breaking if there was a version of OS that doesn't have time in it

  12. 1. Is there anyway that I can remove the time and date from my PC completely? There is time and date set in BIOS too which is non removable.

     

    2. The browser will not lot load any webpage if I change time/remove time by any case. Is there a way to bypass that too? 

     

    I'm only experimenting this and idk if anyone has ever tried removing time and date completely from windows pc

    812L5zyAmpL._AC_SX466_.jpg

  13. So let's just say I have an AC which is 1.5 Tonne in a literally small room. Many say I shouldn't turn on my ceiling fan and AC at the same time because as the hot air rises up, it again mixes up with the cold air

     

    But what if the room is small? Can I turn on the fan because it really wouldn't make any difference even if it mixes with the cold air inside

  14. 1 hour ago, Bishop Crane said:

    Do you know roughly your power draw?  More than 600, so 800?  1000?
    And how long does it need to run for?  Few seconds, minutes, hours?

    I know most of the APC UPS's above 1500VA will handle over 800Watts, but you are talking serious money for them.
    As an example this will handle 865Watts
    https://www.amazon.in/APC-BR1500G-865-watt-Back-Black/dp/B00B2LA7JK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=108JXJ0UOGBIR&keywords=ups+1500va&qid=1560077356&s=computers&sprefix=UPS+1500%2Ccomputers%2C137&sr=1-3

    If you really are using over 800 Watts you are only likely to get a few minutes, probably less than 10 at that usage, but if your power cuts are mostly short it will do fine.

    Thank you. I'm not looking for playing in battery power. Even if the ups backs me up for 5 mins, that's more than enough for me. Right not the problem is it completely turns off if there is power outage. 

  15. 13 hours ago, Firewrath9 said:

    no

    no need for UPS, get 8 more gb of ram, and a decent PSU (unless you have one already)

    No u don't understand. I want a gaming ups to prevent my pc from powering off while the power goes off

  16. I know there is a lot of options to choose a nice low output wattage ups for a normal pc usage, but what if i want an UPS for a gaming pc that could deliver me an output as more than 600W.

     

     

    Please suggest me a better UPS for a gaming PC. I live in India so please suggest a budget ups that can withstand fluctuations while gaming with my 1070Ti and i7 8700K with 8 GB RAM

×