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Everything posted by artuc

  1. Hakko make good stuff. Station if you want to splash out, just a corded one otherwise.
  2. Seems a bit weird. Does someone that wants pretty lights want encryption ? Then vice versa Does someone that wants encryption want pretty lights ? Needs someone that wants srs security but also appreciates multi coloured glowing, seems like a niche market ?
  3. ^ Yup. Spot on. ~AC -DC Both symbols on top of each other is measuring both, not all will have that. Do that and use a 0v reference (negative) that is the same as the hot bed power supply. Keep your black probe on that and your red probe on the other points and record the voltage. DC supplies can be isolated and floating and have nothing to do with your mains earth or some random chassis under your desk.
  4. Yeah, it's also likely cheaper and easier and quicker to assemble. Our car inside driver's handle broke, a metal part. It is plastic welded to the trim. I completely disagree with the practice for serviceable parts. In this case it actually had posts that would then take a screw, just a pain, drilled out the plastic. Some parts you may be able to glue after. Fairly common nowadays though in terms of sealed/glued/plastic welded/plastic snap or pin pieces instead of traditional fasteners like screws.
  5. I'm a bit pessimistic maybe but I find big brands can end up destroying smaller brands, I'm talking unintentionally, I would imagine competitors can be deliberately bought up and buried too. From what I've seen, there are some possible bad scenarios. 1. Quality goes down, big company buys it, decides that small scale local bespoke manufacturing costs too much, let's make it in Generic Crap Factory #274 overseas instead. 2. The essence of the brand gets lost in the big brand. A company that may be known for innovation gets snuffed out as it's too radical for the conservative big brand, it's cheaper that the amazing tech support gets disbanded and big brands crappy support team will cover it and so on. 3. Potential innovation and integration doesn't get done and sub brands just stagnate. What could be an amazing opportunity to apply design and tech from one brand to improve all product lines is squandered and products from different sub brands just don't work well with each other even though they are under the one brand umbrella. It should be amazing and it's just meh.
  6. Way back in the early 00s I put front panel audio on a cheap case. Used a floppy disc blank, drilled 2 holes for panel mount 3.5mm sockets and then got a donor front panel audio cable and chopped the end off and soldered it up. Fairly easy for anyone that can solder. Not that hard to do similar, depending how your front panel PCB is, some companies may sell or supply a replacement, it may be possible to replace the socket on the board, or hack it up a bit and fit an alternative as it may be an obscure part or odd footprint.
  7. Where it is important is if it is a transformer and you mess it up. Think power supplies that have the switch between 110 and 220. Say if you have a device that has a transformer and internally it has a 110VAC - 55VAC stepdown transformer that then goes into a linear power supply, ratio is 2:1. If you by mistake plugged said device into 220VAC, the secondary would be 110VAC due to the 2:1 ratio and likely destroy the power supply. Same goes for transformer based linear power supplies and plugpack. Now that is far less common these days as many devices use Switch Mode Power supplies that have a wide input voltage range say 80-260VAC so can work around the world with different plugs/leads and often in brownout conditions. This is a long answer to say it depends. Your question isn't exactly clear on what you're doing.
  8. I do access control and security. Not quite the same however I have to do some quite complicated setups at times that does involve logic gate style programming or actual code. Anyway, a lot of the time I can actually use virtual versions of the actual I/O to test and simulate what I'm setting up. The next level is actually wiring switches as inputs and LED/buzzer/relays for real world testing and feedback. I know it's not quite the same and there may be issues with things like AC motors but you could potentially with some aspects completely scale down to much more affordable ELV electronics and devices and build in small scale ?
  9. Ditch all the dodgy stuff in between. Given that a surge protector should have components shunting a surge to earth (Gas Arrestors/MOVs/TVS Diodes) there is something super dodgy there if it's only 2 pin. Bin it. Check your extension cord is wired correctly also. Are these name brand items or super dodgy no name brand ?
  10. For this sort of budget you're better off looking at small scale projects. If you lived rural for example an idea could be a solar panel and battery to run some sensors at a remote location with no power. Like say a level sensor on a water trough, moisture sensor, weather station and so on. Could do something like a solar irrigation controller and pump from a water tank, greenhouse or run some sort of automated hydro/aquaponics system. Too low a budget to bother with trying to augment grid power/backup system.
  11. The WS chips like the WS2811 have an IC for each led. They're designed to be daisy chained and addressable. Why not buy an addressable LED strip in the first place ? You can control each LEDs RGB values and brightness individually, much better than just an RGB strip and plug and play with an off the shelf uC, just need a power supply. The WS2801 shows using a transistor for higher current output/high voltage strings. A 300mA transistor ? Cost is peanuts. Downside is having to be a bit more on the ball with selecting parts and circuit design, like base and pull up/down resistors, protection diodes and so on.
  12. Logistics asset tracking and monitoring, theft prevention, security guard tour, access control, livestock and wildlife tagging and time and attendance are some of the most common and I'm sure I've forgotten a fair few. You need to be more clear on what you are doing and trying to achieve.
  13. What's the purpose ? There's not really much available that would suit a bike. Due to the current involved any switch/isolator or relay/solenoid will be massive. There may be other options depending what you're trying to do. Look at the dimensions. It's an industrial footprint, it's massive and would look ridiculous on a bike.
  14. Basically stranded has higher resistance than solid. Solid is not as flexible and can break if bent and kinked a lot. Also some IDC mechs and modules are intended for solid core cables only. So solid is used for permament fixed cabling and stranded is for patch leads. Shouldn't run stranded as a permament install as long distances it may not meet certification specs.
  15. You can use a DC-DC converter, a buck-boost type will have an input voltage range that can be higher or lower than your output. I'd imagine the 12-16VDC could mean that the output is similar to a car battery and may fluctuate depending on load and of charging or depleted and so on, so possibly unregulated output straight off the cells. A linear regulator has to be higher input voltage than out and isn't as efficient so wastes more power and dumps it as heat. So go with DC-DC. However from a quick search you may not find something conveniently straight off the shelf. There are modules like this: http://www.meanwell.com/productSeries.aspx?i=29&c=7#tag-7-29 SKM30A-15 They do also have a DIN mount model that isn't as compact. You would have to DIY that in a little housing or something though with your own connectors/pigtails. 15VDC isn't insanely uncommon but unusual enough there isn't a massive amount of choice. It may be easier to get a jump starter that has an inverter built in and use the BT speaker's plugpack. Not the most efficient but definitely the easiest solution. Also good quality 30W DC-DC converters are not cheap. I don't know that you would find a jump starter with all the features though. A regulated 15VDC would be unsual as it's an added expense. One with an inverter also may not have the torch.
  16. Your budget pretty much restricts you to the likes of Hikvision/Dahua. They make very good value for money cameras with a good picture. Biggest thing to watch is security wise with firmware patching. Some grey market/counterfeit cameras are on the market and some have hacked firmware that can't be updated with official firmware and so these devices can be vulnerable once exploits are found. Avoid port forwarding cameras. Recording wise there are several options. Edge recording is an SD card on the camera, it's cheap short term for a small install. Cons are small storage space for cost, footage will be stolen with camera, excessive write cycles wearing out the card and you are locked into whatever interface and software thee manufacturer uses. A dedicated NVR. They are typically a bit pricey for what they are, however they are pretty much set and forget, small and fairly efficient, whack it in somewhere and forget about it. They are not as powerful as a PC and not as flexible and can be a bit clunky at times. However I'd say they are more reliable usually. PC running VMS software. Here you can pick a system that you want that is compatible with your cameras, you get the flexibility and power of a PC and can run other software and integrations also. Cons can be cost and a little less reliable. There are some VMS systems that are free or have demo or limited edition for small systems, some of the better large scale systems are expensive and have camera licencing costs and SMA fees to keep software up to date. NAS is another option, licencing can be a bit pricy and it is a costly option overall if just for this purpose, however if you already have or want a NAS this is definitely a viable option for a small install. Cloud lastly, issue with cloud is it's all locked into one the one manufacturer, typically picture quality and settings are not as good and it is usually only event based recording, not 24/7. The positive is with a nice app and software it can be a nicer experience for online viewing and notifications as it's already cloud based and doesn't involve much configuration at all. Hope some of this helps. That is expensive for a small domestic system however it's about par for the course for commercial systems so Synology may be aiming more for the SOHO and small business market. Also I'd say that really $100-150+ for a decent camera from an authorised supplier, the ones I really would love to use but domestic customers can't afford are several times that.
  17. So plug in the IEC mains lead to your PSU but don't switch it on at the wall, install a screw into the PSU, that screw should be connected to the PSU chassis which is bonded to the earth on the IEC lead, through the mains socket and to building earth. Then you can either clip to that screw or put a lug or piece of wire under the screw when you do it up to give you something better to clip to. You should also be able to buy an ESD mains plug that just has the earth pin or you can make one, however do be extremely careful and make sure you're competent if you go down that route. I dread someone would accidentally make a lead with active or neutral instead.
  18. Only other issue could be the tip if it varies on different models.
  19. Could be cooked. Check in the BIOS. Check that it's not disabled. Reinstall driver's.
  20. A 240v AC plug pack at 120v AC will be outputting half voltage so for your model it would be 6v AC. Which is way too low. Even 12v AC is too low but may work. Definitely can explain your issue. For example I have seen devices with an under voltage fault and they get stuck in a boot loop where they start to boot, there is a current surge as they turn on, voltage dips enough to not run properly, shuts down, voltage rises back up slightly, then it starts over again. So when it sounds like it's switching on and off it quite possibly actually is as it may just be marginally running with such a low voltage.
  21. What's it for ? How about a battery powered BBQ igniter ?
  22. So you created a short at the cigarette plug ? Check your accessory fuse, it's probably blown. Stereos also have their own fuses, can check there but it shouldn't have blown. It should be able to tolerate such a fault. Ideally run a new fused constant 12VDC straight from the battery, rated for the current the stereo will draw. You're robbing your current draw from the plug so won't be able to draw a full 10A from it.
  23. Is the issue because Arduino have a preloaded bootloader ?
  24. Your Win 7/8 key should work to activate Win 10.
  25. You guys are stuck in a photography mindset. These sort of sensors are a big deal for CCTV. It's fairly common there is no point slapping in an 8MP camera when it can't see anything at night time. There are currently 2MP low light cameras out that can give use able footage 24/7, some look like dusk in the middle of a pitch black night. Then you also don't use as much bandwidth, storage or NVR resources. Better to have solid 2MP footage than useless 8MP footage and some of these low light sensors are game changers so this sort of tech is huge for CCTV.