AnthonyPaull

I recently purchased an EK-FC GTX waterblock for my EVGA 1080 ti SC2, and got a backplate with it to replace the stock one. I accidentally clicked the 1080 version instead of the 1080 ti version, and it looks like the cut outs are slightly different. Will this cause a problem? I don't want to damage any SMD's. Alternatively, is it possible to use the EVGA backplate with the EK block?

I purchased my watercooling hardware recently and due to a misclick I thought the radiator I had purchased was copper. Unfortunately it was not. Rad is the Thermaltake RL360, block is the Corsair XC7. I am using a premix fluid from EKWB that is advertised as corrosion resistant, but I think galvanic corrosion may unfortunately still occur. Is this correct? Does the fact that the alu is a nickel alloy help at all, and if so how long will I be OK for before permanent damage to the rad? As I understand the block would only be a problem if the corrosion caused particles to enter the water and get stuck in the fins, but please correct me if I'm wrong. If I'm changing anything it will be the rad, as I would prefer copper for the marginally better heat transfer anyway. Thanks guys in advance

I'm fairly certain the Optiplex computers use custom motherboards, so the case would not fit the required ATX motherboard to run a Ryzen. You may be able to upgrade it to a newer intel CPU depending on the chipset and socket.

Hey how did this build go? Did you end up going through with it? Just got my XD3 today and I haven't seen anything about it online, it's almost like a ghost

Pull the cooler and backplate off and look around the PCB for any damage. You can find plenty of vids on youtube showing what to look for. If you find some damage, the card is probably kaput, otherwise it might be worth trying to do a reflow of the solder. Again, tons of tutorials for that on Youtube

You could go for a big air cooler, but your case temps will be hot and your OC mileage may vary. I would reccommend a 240/280 AIO for overclocking a 7800X

I just finished putting my first loop together with a corsair RGB Pump/Res combo and CPU block, however when I went to plug everything into my fan controller (Corsair Commander Mini) it seemed to have a 4 pin RGB connector, whereas the plug for the pump/res and CPU block is a 3 pin. Did Corsair just up and change RGB format? Also it seems to be a different connector from my Corsair fans (4 pin again) that come with the Crystal 570X. I assumed it would work because it's all corsair stuff, but apparently not. Any idea of the cheapest way to get the RGB working? I don't really want to go out and buy a Commander Pro (Especially as I already have the mini and the Pro is like $130AUD). All this BS aside, the loop looks really nice and performs well so no complaints there

So I've been running a few hours on the 1003 bios and it seems stable but performance has dropped between 3 and 5%, cpu is only boosting to 4.325 for single core now and 4.0-4.15 multicore instead of 4.25 I was getting before... Bit dissapointing but I'll take stability first and performance later. Hopefully with later versions we have the performance and the stability...

No riser cable, I've just got a response from ASRock support with an AGESA 1.0.0.3 bios included to try, so I'm going to give that a shot. What motherboard is this occurring on for you? X370/470/570?

Honestly, I was shocked when at stock I did a User benchmark run and got in the 96th percentile. The X370 boards may be running the chips faster but less stable? I'm pretty confident this will be fixed in the long run as my 1700 went from super flaky in the Taichi at launch to rock solid in Less than 6 months or so, especially with the flareX

Idc about the errors as long as they don't crash my pc. Are you using an Nvidia GPU? And getting the Whea uncorrectable error BSOD specifically?

That's not a problem, the chipset will only get hot if you're using a PCIE 4.0 NVME drive. You're fine to chuck the GPU over the chipset fan.

Yeah a clean install of windows is almost required, also make sure the AMD Promontory chipset driver is installed. Set your CPU entirely to stock, the only OC you should be doing is per CCX, but for now stock is fine, leave memory on auto and get everything installed on the system. If you're experiencing stutter at this point then you may have a faulty unit, but if not then keep enabling additional bios settings one by one and see if it comes back.

Thanks dude, please let me know, I'll give this a shot tomorrow when I have time too and let you know if you haven't done it by then

Thanks for the reddit tip, I've had a look and it seems like I've already sent most of the relevant info to them via email. I just enabled LLC to level 3 to see if that potentially helped with stability, and as for PBO I've tried with it both on and off and it's still happening. Hoping I just get an Nvidia driver update soon that puts this bug to bed.