Nanoray

Wow - one of the most important overclocking features, and they don't even put it in the manual?!

Found a toggle switch on my recently-bought board that's labelled BIOS_SW1, with positions JDP1 and JBD1 (default). This switch is labelled in the master "overview of components" diagram in the manual, but there is no chapter/paragraph explaining what it is or what it does. Any ideas?

Add to this the fact that the 7600X is, for some reason, cheaper than the non-X... I've got the cooling headroom to keep it under control!

I am well aware of this, but I was pricing up AIOs, and the 420 was the cheapest at the time I was looking (incredible £111 from Scan - the 240 is £110!).

Just put my 5600 back in, and copied the BIOS settings 100 % precisely from the last time it was in, and got lower scores than before the update. This leads me to believe that 1. the new BIOS, 2. the latest graphics card drivers, or 3. the latest chipset drivers are responsible for the loss - I have updated all three since the last time I benchmarked with my 5600. ETA - just run Superposition, and got back to 9500+ (from <8000 on the 5800X 3D, but 9800+ before any of this).

It's just frustrating me that it hasn't given me the bump I was expecting - I messed with the CO and it made little difference; multi-core improved a bit, but single-core went DOWN. I'm going for a basic AM5 - 7600 (non-X), B650 Edge Gaming, DDR5 6000/32 (running at lower bandwidth for tighter timings). Went mental and also ordered a 420 Liquid Freezer... and a Meshify 2 to put it in!

That was stock; just did a -25/-30 and got roughly equivalent CB23, but 10 degrees cooler. Left it core cycling on SSE for 90 mins while I went to town, with Youtube running alongside, and no errors reported. I've made my mind up on AM5 - Prime Week plus my Amazon employee discount should save me a few quid.

Just been in the BIOS and forced Gen 4 PCIe, disabled BAR, and enabled 1:1 UCLK (which I forgot to do). No difference. Tempted to put my 5600 back in to see how it does - I copied the BIOS settings precisely before I removed it, and I can key them all in to match...

Just checked the link speed in Device Manager and it says 4. It gets to 80 (at least) in CB23, but nowhere near that in games. Tbh, I'm on the brink of selling all my AM4 kit and going to a 7600 on an AM5 board.

CPU is 100% in properly - I give it a wiggle before I locked the lever.

Significantly lower with the X 3D.

X570S Torpedo. I've done 1000% pass with Memtest and no errors are showing up, not even WHEA. (I can't use XMP with my RAM because it's that crazy 4400 Patriot Viper stuff; I went as far as 3600 and kept everything 1:1.)

NH-D15S, with an extra 120 mm on the front. Going to try CO undervolt tomorrow - my BIOS has Kombo strike, but I think MSI's latest BIOS lets you use CO for the X 3D anyway. My plan is to use -25 for my "starred" cores and -30 for everything else, then kick it in the nads with some low-load OCCT core cycling.

4070, both times.

Just installed my shiny new 5800X 3D and dialled in the RAM settings to precisely the same as I had with my outgoing 5600. Ran some gaming benchmarks... and it's WORSE - Superposition was down nearly 20%, Heaven was down from 4500 to 4250, and Shadow of the Tomb Raider came out within margin of error, but with admittedly much better CPU frametimes (and it went from 41% GPU bound to 70%). BIOS has just been updated to latest stable, and aside from the RAM overclock, I have not touched any voltages - the 5600 and 5800X 3D are being compared stock for stock. What on earth have I done/not done wrong?! I can't tell you how gutted I am to have spent £240 to get a WORSE gaming performance than a boggo 5600 I can keep hold of for nothing! M.

You are testing each core at its max boosting frequency under maximum load - this covers situations where the core is at max boosting frequency and under low load. If it can do AVX2 at max frequency, it can do web browsing at max frequency

One tip I would include is to do all of this in Windows Safe Mode - this ties in to the "low load" situations mentioned earlier; Safe Mode reduces overheads to an absolute minumum. One-core-at-a-time testing is the only way to achieve total stability with Curve Optimizer - I had a 5700X that was all-core stable at -30 all round, but would collpase while gaming. It's because, under all-core loads, the boost frequency is lower, so when light loads come in, with their higher frequencies, a weak core gets caught out.

Lapped CPU and cooler, wrung together with no paste... better than stock w/ paste?

Kind of - I fudged a connection to a PWM header and ran it in a mobo BIOS in DC mode .

Mine comes on at 4.2 V.

And Linus finally rode a horse in the Tesla video...

About a week ago I fell asleep to LTT and had a dream wherein Linus had to break the news, in a video, that an employee had died. 2020 is infecting my god damned DREAMS, now.

I came with a capsule-type halogen but I put an LED in it. It may be that the new PSU has enough extra insrush current compared to the old one that it's just past what the breaker can cope with; reviews suggest a 7-8 Amp difference at our mains voltage.

I have taken the lamp off the strip and put it on its own switch - I noticed that both times the trip happened the lamp had been left on the previous night. I know it's on the same ring, but at least it won't be a cold-start. The lamp is very old - sticker on the bottom say 1997 - so I will replace it with a USB LED one shortly. I might get a supply with a lower inrush current as well.

I have my PC plugged into a power bar with speakers, monitor, and a lamp. A couple of times I have switched the power bar on at the wall and the house breaker has tripped - this is before I switch the PC on, and I have never had a trip with the PC running, even while stress testing or gaming. How likely is it that the PSU is responsible? The system is fairly new and this has only happened since I put a new PSU in it. This has only happened twice so far so it's difficult to isolate the problem at the moment.