JacobeeGames

I think I'll dig into all this a little later, although you brought up carrier related things and now that I think back this all seamed to start after I reconfigured my carrier settings on this phone, however that wasn't very long after I started using the phone so I'm unsure if that's related. I might try switching back to the old carrier settings and see if that helps, just sucks that I'll lose 5g service if I do but should be fine for testing. Thanks for all that, some genuinely useful tidbits in there.

I recently got a refurbished galaxy s21, I've been having this issue where it will randomly freeze up and then eventually reboot itself and I haven't been able to determine why. Hoping someone has some advice. It's not predictable, it doesn't seem to follow any sort of pattern other than it does it randomly while trying to do something, happened earlier when I opened Instagram while Spotify was playing in the background, another time I accidentally opened the camera via double tapping the power button, etc and it freezes up and restarts. I'm currently talking with the refurbisher about what may be wrong and whether or not I should have it replaced, which they assured they would do if we can't resolve this, and I'm hoping someone may know something or know what to try while I continue diagnostics. It doesn't do it very often, maybe 2-3 times a day on average and usually within a couple hours.

I added another 8 gigs of ram to my pc for s total of 16 gig, I started tweaking my memory settings to run at a faster speed, nothing insane just from 1333mhz to 1600, and it started looping in automatic repair. I ended up removing the ram I added and the system is back to the way it was before. It's still looping even after I loaded factory defaults in the bios. Any ideas?

There should be preapplied thermal paste but some manufacturers put a sticker overtop of it to prevent accidental removal of it before installation. I am not sure whether or not your cooler has that though, but yes those are really high temps for idle, should be more in the sub 40's at most

Thanks! That's what I was thinking too. I have a few large games like GTA V, world of tanks, PayDay2 etc, I would fill that SSD in no time.

Well considering that you have a 1060 I would recommend nothing less than an i7 of that era, I would get the best 4th gen i7 from a reputable seller that you are comfortabe paying the price for. Basically the cheapest 4770 or 4790 you can find in a working condition.

Now, I may sound crazy here but this sounds like a cooler issue. Maybe somehow the stock thermal paste got wiped off and never replaced or you forgot to pull the sticker covering off before installing the cooler? That would explain it since those are temps I would expect for it to be under a moderate load.

You are correct about the work station performance being better but gaming is a very different scenario. Now, it really depends on the CPU's and motherboard chosen as well as even ram configurations because of the way dual socket boards split the memory slots. To achieve decent performance on a dual socket motherboard you would need some pretty decently fast CPU's to start with in which case it might even be faster to run single socket anyways. Games really can't use much more than about 4-6 cores at most, and say you have a pair of quad cores, your effectively splitting the workload across two CPU's which can cause issues since it may choose to use 4 from one and 2 from the other instead of 3 and 3, this may cause temp imbalances and possible performance loss on one CPU because of it (its a small issue in comparison) its just really not that great of an experience due to software things. Now say you wanted to game stream or something of that nature, if you could somehow basically dedicate one entire CPU to the game so it doesn't have to communicate between the other CPU for info stored in the other CPU's ram (remember they have separate memory) you could leave the rest of the cores open from the other CPU for encoding, other apps, etc then you may actually be able to achieve a decent experience.

I have an older Seagate "white label" Barracuda hard drive and recently I've been having super long booting times and some BSOD's and post errors on startup. A day or two ago task manager was showing response times in the 1000ms+ range on the drive and it wouldn't even show up in task manager about an hour ago (It does now after a little bit of tinkering). Now this drive has gone through many many hardware changes, it has had about 2 different graphics cards and an entire motherboard/CPU/Ram swap without a reinstall of Windows(Yes I know). Now this drive is about 6 years old if I recall correctly and I am not sure as to the prior use of this drive, it was given to me used. I went ahead an ordered a 128GB SSD from PNY knowing I would have to reinstall Windows because of the hardware changes. My question is, do you think the drive would be safe to use as a secondary mass storage drive, after all its about half full as is and a 128gb SSD is no where near half the capacity of the 1TB drive. I would wipe the drive completely and install Windows on the SSD and get any necessary applications installed first then I'll see if I actually need the drive or not. Thanks!

I currently run an AMD R9 270 reference edition card and my friend just upgraded to a 1660 ti, in Cinebench R15 OpenGL test my card scores significantly higher than his 1660 ti, like we're talking a difference of 40+ fps in the test. We switched to Unigine Heaven benchmark and ran it in OpenGL and no surprise his card wins but not by very much running the same exact settings I was within 400 points of his 1660 ti and I had a higher maximum and the same minimum FPS with the average fps being only about 10 fps lower. Is this just an effect of AMD versus Nvidia cards or is something wrong? It should be mentioned we both have basically the same CPU and memory configurations.

It won't even begin to boot to anything. It can't make it passed bios.

No luck still boot looping

It won't even make it to the os. I tried a different drive with a different install as well. All it does is show the motherboard splash screen then go to a low power state then retry

I already tried that. Multiple times. It even gave me an error for system clock reset and a cmos checksum error as well as a battery removed error. It reset but it's still boot looping

My pc is currently boot looping and not responding to keyboard commands. I had just swapped the motherboard and cpu from my old a8 5500 amd cpu to my "new" Intel core i5 4670. It had booted up earlier but I changed a few things in the bios and I can't get it to boot and I can't get back into bios to reset it. Doesn't want to respond to my attempts to clear cmos. Any help maybe I'm not something right?

1. It would be pretty easy to infer what I meant by that. 2. You also have to realize the TDP won't always be the max power draw of a CPU due to boosting and such. Not to mention some Ryzen chips may need some pretty serious voltage to overclock far. I would figure this system probably pulls around 300 watts under full load as is. So maybe another 100 watts left over to play with. For some people that's enough, however we also run unto efficiency curve issues and the fact that you'll be running the PSU near max usage which can cause it to degrade faster over time and eventually take a crap on the user prematurely, which we don't want to happen. That could cause premature death of other components too since when a PSU fails its usually pretty dramatically. Now in the end its up to the user, you can overclock however you know the risks of it.

I'm liking this build a lot more than the other one. Suitable PSU, the SSD is okay I guess but same as last one, no hard drive. He's really gonna need at least a 1tb hard drive for his mass storage of games and other stuff. That case should do well, but were back to B450, we wanted to go X570 because of PCI-e 4.0, we are considering high speed PCI-e based storage later on and would like PCI-e 4.0 capability.

I really don't think that PSU would even be enough, especially since I'm gonna overclock most likely. Plus according to testing 3600 speed memory is where you want to be for Ryzen performance, which is why I had that kit to begin with. Also no 1tb hard drive? He's gonna need a backup drive for older files and games a 512gb ssd won't nearly be enough. Really we can leave the storage case and PSU alone on my build, Really the only issue would be what GPU and memory kit to go with.

I wouldn't try overclocking, That system probably pulls around 300-350 watts to begin with, so your already stressing your PSU pretty hard as far as I'm concerned. If you overclock the CPU and GPU you risk running really close to OC protection. That power supply seams to have a reputation for being pretty well built from a quick search, however I would recommend at most a small OC on the CPU, even so your CPU cooler may be your limitation anyways. I would upgrade that PSU to at minimum a 500w unit to overclock safely, however if your willing to gamble you can try slowly turning up the speeds, Use a watt meter connected to your cord to the PC if you have one it may be a good tool to monitor your PSU's power draw.

I'm building a PC for my best friend who's looking to do some work with Autocad and Solidworks and game on his spare time. He has a budget of around 1000 USD. I tried my best in PC parts picker. PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $199.00 @ Amazon Motherboard ASRock - X570 Phantom Gaming 4 ATX AM4 Motherboard $144.99 @ Newegg Memory G.Skill - Sniper X 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory $156.99 @ Newegg Storage Kingston - A400 240 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $29.99 @ Amazon Storage Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $43.71 @ OutletPC Video Card MSI - GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB VENTUS OC Video Card $344.99 @ Newegg Case Cougar - MX330 ATX Mid Tower Case $39.99 @ Newegg Power Supply SeaSonic - EVO Edition 620 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $69.98 @ Newegg Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $1054.64 Mail-in rebates -$25.00 Total $1029.64 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-19 15:05 EDT-0400 My only worries are the GPU, I'm not really certain on the best gaming and work station card there is. LTT suggested an Rx 580 in the previous video on Solidworks, however I'm hoping maybe someone has some insight into whether or not CUDA performance and the tensor cores on RTX would meaningfully help. Also yes I know X570 may be a waste of money but we are tinkerers after all and some of it has to do with trying new high end hardware. If anyone would have any ideas on parts to change maybe to lower the cost or up the performance without spending more. I'm open to discussion.

Both. I talked with a friend and we figured it out. Don't know exactly what caused it but it seams to work at least. Overclocks held at 1g in afterburner with some fiddling. Still not completely fixed though. Still have no control over some stuff.

As someone who deals with older hardware and games on it, that system wont be amazing, as for a GPU you could run it in, I'd say at most a GTX 960/760 or an AMD r9 270 which is my current GPU. You'll be CPU bottlenecked with any card like these but the games you can play will be decent, Fortnite, Minecraft, Apex, etc in that 60-90 fps range on medium settings at 1080p. You really shouldn't expect much, and upgrade that CPU if possible.

I've seen the 1660 as cheap as 200 USD on Amazon. Might be a worth while investment over dual 970's. Plus you'd have to make sure your CPU and motherboard would handle dual cards. Not all motherboards are SLI certified despite having multiple slots. Running dual 970's would only yield maybe 75-90% more performance over one card depending on the game. A lot of newer games don't support or aren't optimized for SLI anyways.

I have an AMD R9 270 that I wanted to try a little overclocking with, or maybe an undervolt because these cards aren't really known to run cool. I fired up MSI Afterburner, no control. Settings apply but no changes to the clocks, can't even control the fan. So AMD Overdrive it is, and still no control. I stress tested and ran games to test my overclocks but it still ran at the base speeds. Fan doesn't seem to ramp up or down despite Afterburner reporting the fan speeding up under an Aida 64 stress test on the GPU. Also no core voltage shows, and I can't change it nor the temp limit sliders in Afterburner. Latest drivers are installed and a restart.

No, like put the entire PC in a chamber of LN2, not just a pot on the CPU and GPU.