WolfStrong

I think it would be the perfect thing to a LAN party PC for the games I play!

Vessel Username: WolfStrong https://www.vessel.com/videos/DcGDJBs98 https://www.vessel.com/videos/MI7F0u2H8

Haha, yeah I knew someone was going to post the quote by Linus. Thought I would submit this post after seeing the 5a video with his recent problems and trying my best to explain ways to prevent the issues he is having in the future. My experience comes from some good years working on cars (and still continue to do it on the side), an engineering technician, maintaining the family pool, and a brief period of time when I was a plumber as well. Needless to say when Linus posted that video, alarm after alarm went off in my head throughout the video after seeing several signs of algae in the silicone tubing, no shutoff's installed at proper locations, admitting he never heard of Teflon tape until recently, the cheap automotive coolant (which also means he probably used tap water to fill it), and the ghetto-tastic bathtub setup was just the cherry on the top. The copper tubing looked like it was nicely installed though! What I can say is that I have to give Linus mad props for having some creative solutions, however ghetto and short lived they may be. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't jealous of the room watercooling. I can't tell you how much my PC heats up the room, and how much it makes me want to do something like this if I wasn't just renting. "If it works, it works"

One thing I can recommend is that using tap water is a HUGE mistake. Tap water contains high concentrations of minerals and microbes. Also, many types of automotive coolant have phosphate, which is BAD! What happens is the calcium and magnesium found in tap water tend to combine with the phosphate to form calcium/magnesium phosphate, which forms scales on the hotter surfaces, often leading to corrosion and loss of heat transfer. This is especially problematic on aluminum surfaces! Something else to consider is that when you first installed the system, hopefully you flushed it as well. Stock plumbing hardware you use is dirty, and needs to be flushed first before serious use. The stuff can sit for a long time, and cause little surprises in closed loop systems. Also, just the welding introduces stuff to the system. So flush it, and flush it good. This may be helpful when going to do your next system, as you definitely need a flush right now. Next, something else to consider is that while distilled water would be good, something else you can use is waterless coolant. Products like Evan's Waterless Coolant is designed for closed loop systems, and helps you eliminate corrosion possibilities that even distilled water may introduce. This, however, is not cheap, usually costing around $30-40/gallon. The next best option is distilled water + phosphate free coolant concentrate. This is a little cheaper at usually $15-20/gallon, but it is a concentrate. Considering you are running at MUCH lower temperatures than a car would, you could probably dilute this much further, at maybe 4:1 instead of 1:1. This would mean the cost would be ~$4-5/gallon of coolant, and distilled water is roughly $1/gallon. Adding an antimicrobial additive would be VERY helpful, as you are basically at perfect brewing temps for microbes with this system. Cars on the other hand run at a high enough temperature that it would kill these microbes, but with your system probably running at only slightly higher than room temperature, you are just asking for trouble without an antimicrobial additive. The most important thing is to make sure you are starting on a clean system though. Flushing it first with water to get all the large junk out, than running a system flush through it with antimicrobial solution would be your best bet. This may prove to be a lengthy process though as the stuff tends to stick to the walls. You may even find it easier to just replace some of the replaceable rubber/silicone hoses, as these are the worst culprits, rubber being the worst.

My iPhone 6. I want to go to a Blackberry Classic and get a Nexus 9. Seriously, I got it over the hype from the camera and all the new stuff that was suppose to be with it after having my iPhone 5. After using it, my only impression is that the camera is still underwhelming compared to even a basic point and shoot in low light conditions, the interface feels slow, seriously miss my physical keyboard, and it either feels fragile and slippery as hell without a case, or awkward with a case. Only thing I do enjoy on it is the headphone amp and music capabilities are much better than my Android phones of late. Sadly though, my Blackberry was my best music player; God how I hate iTunes and Google Music for syncing my music collection....

My favorite part is actually the buttons on the back! Never thought I would like it, but after playing around with it, I can't believe it isnt used by more people!

Goodbye.

I made a little followup to Linus' experience that I think will help some people out: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/164342-a-tag-along-post-to-linus-recent-laptop-revival/ FYI: His experience had NOTHING to do with it being a Dell, and if anything, Apple is actually easier to work on than that thing...well outside of the glued battery, but that is a non-issue as it should be replaced anyways. This video proves nothing on the build quality of Dell. Once you know what is actually going on, it isn't too surprising anymore.

As someone who has come across, and successfully fixed some waterlogged devices, this is no surprise to me. Water damaged electronics are no mythical being that magically stops working. I thought I would outline the few main causes that make electronics stop working, as well as bust a few myths. What causes failures? First, let's go over what actually causes electronics to stop working after being exposed to liquids. Corrosion. Just because a circuit shorts, does not mean it is fried though! Electronics (outside of batteries), are often very robust to this sort of thing, and even something like a blown capacitor can be replaced fairly easily, though I've almost never seen this happen from liquid damage. For an electronic component to truly fail, something MUCH worse than liquid damage has to occur on lower voltage things like laptops and cell phones. What happens is that sediments in the liquid not only cause conduction, but also stay behind as the liquid dries (more on this in the myths). Truth be told, distilled water can be used to actually clean electronics after they have been exposed to anything that may corrode, though there are better solutions out there. As Linus pointed out, the #1 thing to watch out for is the battery. The danger isn't that the circuit got wet, the danger is when it dries. The longer it takes to dry off, and the longer a current pushed through the circuit, the greater the chances are of corrosion. The corrosion is conductive, which shorts out the circuit, causing the unit not to work. On the note of corrosion, there are a few places to look for in particular, the first is always the copper/gold connections. Sadly, this includes RAM, CPU sockets, and the PCI (GPU). Some of these are too hard to see as the pins can be hidden in a plastic housing, but those are not the problem as there is often more metal to corrode away. The problem often lies on the thin metal contact on the PCB. I actually had a laptop I cleaned up completely, went over all the connections, and could not figure out why it wouldn't boot. After going over it with a friend for a second set of eyes, I finally caught it: part of the contact on one of the RAM sticks had corroded away slightly. Replaced RAM stick, and laptop worked. This is why it is vitally important to clean the corrosion off ASAP, and the best timeframe I can give you is 'while the unit is still dripping wet'. Again, the longer you wait... A few other dangers are also involved, the biggest being the LiPo batteries used in modern electronics. These batteries are HIGHLY combustible when exposed to shorts or physical damage; just Google "LiPo Fire". Whenever these are exposed to water, it is ALWAYS a good idea to replace them. Even if the battery appears to work, one of the cells could be shorted, and when you go to charge it or expose it to any kinds of stress, it may light up the entire battery...not good. Another common failure point are electronics with VERY precise electronics and engineering, examples being cameras, LCD's, and sensors. These often have VERY tight tolerances in manufacturing, which means that if water gets in, there is no way for air to get in to dry it out properly. Often, water spots on an LCD is a sure sign of it just needing to be replaced simply because there is just no good way to get the water out. Fans are another common failure point where there is little hope of recovery. While some fans can be taken apart and the electronics cleaned (more on that next), putting them back together often proves harder than the effort is worth, and end up not working right anyways. They are cheap enough that replacement is usually required if it isn't working properly. How to fix it? The good news is that if you take action quickly, regardless of how wet it got, it can often be saved with little hassle. The first thing to do is to disconnect the battery, and likely discard it. This, again, is one thing that I always tell people to replace simply because of how dangerous LiPo's are. There are several different types of Lithium batteries, and while LiNiMn (Lithium Nickel Manganese Cobalt Oxide) isn't nearly as dangerous, LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) are extraordinarily dangerous, and are often what is used in mobile devices like laptops and phones. With the battery removed, go ahead and completely take apart the device; this includes taking the motherboard out of the unit. Once it is removed, remove all removable parts from everything possible. If it screws on, or has a removable connection, take it off. Now that everything is apart, you will need a few things: a large towel to work on that you don't mind getting a little trashed, a plastic/nylon or Hard Bristle brush (toothbrush size), some microfiber towels, compressed air, and the key component, Deoxit D5. I recommend this stuff over everything else because it just works, and is readily available. Not only does it clean really well, but it also protects the surface from further corrosion. With everything taken apart, and your tools ready, the first step is to try and get the water off as much as possible; this is where the compressed air and microfiber towels come into play. Once this is done, go right to liberally applying Deoxit to EVERYTHING. Don't worry, this stuff is made to touch electronics and won't hurt anything (except camera's and LCD's for reasons mentioned above). As you spray it on, use the brush to brush down every crevasse of the PCB board, contacts, and anything else you can see. For things like RAM slots to improve drying times, I apply just a little Deoxit to the brush and brush the areas clean, and apply compressed air to push out any residue (which can house corrosion you just removed). Seriously, you can apply this stuff pretty heavily to the board and just clean away as much as possible. It really doesn't take much though as this stuff just eats away corrosion, and leaves behind nice and shiney electronics with little needed; it is just a nice piece of mind that you can't really overdue it. Deoxit actually displaces the water as well, helps make contacts conduct better, and doesn't cause shorts....it really is that magical. After everything is nice and clean, use another microfiber to lightly clean excess Deoxit off. You will notice a film of it left over which is exactly what you want. Let this film dry on the electronics as it contains a protective layer that will help protect against corrosion and do its magic. Leave it to dry for at least 15 minutes, though I tend to leave it for an hour or more. I've even left it overnight once just because of all the small places that retain liquid really good. Once it dries, reassemble the unit, power on, and you are good to go! Just be sure to double check those contact points REALLY closely as the corrosion could have eaten away at too much of it like it did me that one time. Myths I love this one, "Just throw it in a bag of rice". Let me come out and say this first: DO NOT DO THIS. What this will do is possibly dry out the unit, but what it will not do is get the residue off. This is likely why Linus' method worked so well for him, because he had a fan pushing the water off the unit, not giving much chance for the residue to cause corrosion, though I would have done a Deoxit bath as well because water can still hide in small little places, like under chips, and eventually cause problems down the road. Deoxit displaces this water, leaving no chance of this happening. Rice also can cause other issues, like small pieces of it getting stuck in ports and connections. I've seen this happen more times than I'd like to admit with a customer who threw their device in a bag of rice, only to have a piece of rice royally jammed in a headphone jack or USB port where it is a PITA to get out. Just don't do this. You are actually better off rinsing the unit out with distilled water, which I do not recommend. At least distilled water will displace the previous liquid, getting rid of the chance of sediment drying, causing corrosion. Again, I do not recommend this as it is still water, which readily picks up other contaminants, which can still dry and increase oxidation. Just trying to get the point across that the 'rice trick' is a joke at best. This really boils down all the drying methods down to one myth: Drying off the device is simply not good enough. There are hundreds of small places that can retain water for a very long time, and without something to displace that water, it will sit there and corrode away at the metal, causing more issues down the road. If you are too scared to take the unit apart, and not willing to pay someone to do it, then try what you want (distilled water rinse + drying method), but just know your chances of full recovery and slim to none in the long run. That's it! Time is key here, so move quickly. I've been able to recover all the devices I've come across thanks to Deoxit, as well as other things like cleaning staticy volume pots on receivers and such! Hope this helps someone out!

One can only hope. Unfortunately I've dealt with these kinds of companies quite a lot, and rarely do I ever see them get better if they are already on the 'bad' side. On a similar note, I've heard some good reviews about Dollar Shave Club, though it is a service I will never sign up for as I am a die-hard fan of my safety and straight razor with Mitchell's Wool Fat Shaving Soap, and you would have to pry them all out of my cold, dead hands. They do seem like a great company though from what I've read.

Thought I'd give my experience and review with Five-Four, as honestly, it is a mixed bag for me. Signed up a little over a month ago (maybe 2?), and have got 2 packages in the mail. I have canceled my membership after I realized that their larger sizes just don't fit me well, which started my negative experience. Ordering online was easy enough, as well as a smooth interface that allows you to select exactly what style and size you are. I filled this all out...and waited....and waited. It was a good solid few weeks before I got my order. When I got the first package in, the first thing I noticed was that the regular tshirts seemed...well..cheap. They just seemed abnormally thin, and maybe this was the intended design, but to me, this screams cheap. The next thing I noticed is that the XXL simply did not fit, and seemed more like a large or XL, so these things do run small. I can deal with a little thinner of a shirt if it is big enough, but thin and too small, not a good combo. The other thing that struck me was that even though I specified exactly what kind of style I like, their system seem to have sent me a mix of both, with more of what I said I did not like, rather than what I did. At this point, I thought, 'no big deal; I paid some money, got clothes that I'm not happy with, so I'll just cancel and be done with it'. I go on the website, and that is when the first red flag pops up; there is no cancel button. Great, the only way to cancel your membership is to call in. Sure, you can sign up very easily by yourself online, but to cancel, no, you have to call in. Well due to work constraints, and their call centers limited hours, it takes me a few days to call. I call in and cancel, the guy on the phone was nice (even with 30 minute wait times....no joke), and I was happy that they seemed very friendly and didn't try extra hard to keep you as a customer. Well, a few weeks later I check my account when I get an email from them saying another shipment is on its way. Sure enough, a few days after I called in, a second charge showed up on my account to Five-Four. I get the package in, and without opening it, call in again for the second time (again...another LONG wait time). I explain the situation to the rep, and basically, what they told me was that I had called in on the 13th, and my billing cycle was the 10th (the charge showed up on the 15th, 3 weeks after the first charge), and because of this, "The order was already placed and money sent out for it". I asked about returning the unopened items, and was straight up told that they do not offer refunds or returns. The only way that this makes sense to me is that Five-Four does not actually make any of this, rather has clothes very cheaply made in China or something that they place large orders for and just give their customers a split of whatever they happen to order; this would explain the non-accurate selection as well as the ability to do no returns/refunds, lower quality, and why they had to 'send out' the order with payment So now I am out an extra $65 for clothes I won't wear, that I ended up just donating a few days later. It is a nice concept, but honestly, it is a bigger headache to me than just going to Wal-Mart for some low quality clothing for cheap. I simply can NOT recommend this service to anyone, and would warn anyone looking into it to just go and read some reviews for yourself, especially people's experience with canceling (which I wish i would have done before I signed up). Let my experience be a lesson. I hope not everyone shares this experience, but it was mine. EDIT: Just thought I'd check Yelp...apparently I'm not the only one with this exact experience: http://www.yelp.com/biz/five-four-culver-city Linus, I really hope you drop these guys quick as a sponsor. I was hoping my experience was just isolated, but it seems all too common.

OP complains that his dad won't spoil him and drop $600 for no good reason; has avatar of smoking weed. Seriously, when I was 12 I worked part time on weekends reffing soccer, working snack bars, washing cars, and saved up enough to buy my own laptop for $1300 at 13 with no help from my parents outside of them driving me. Granted, that was several years ago, but laws haven't changed. I have no pity for you. Work hard, save, and earn it yourself.

Yoko Kanno also did the music for both as well. On a side note, partway through Sword Art Online...amazing!

It is actually made by the same people. Wolf's Rain to this day remains my #1 all time favorite anime series. It may be because I love wolves, but even so, the storyline, characters, and ending just hit the feels so hard. Everything from the artwork, to the soundtrack just grabs me every time ever since I first saw it years ago on Toonami. I've enjoyed many great animes since, but none has held a special place in my heart quite like Wolf's Rain.

Something to note first: I do not overclock. Had the Corsair H100i, and sold it to go for the Noctua NH-U12. The Corsair was just a bit too loud for my taste, while the Noctua is DEAD silent. Temps are about the same as well, and even during gaming, temps stay around 45°C while still being silent. HUGE Noctua fan now (pun intended)