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Michael McChesney

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About Michael McChesney

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  1. My first PC was an Everex (ever heard of them?) desktop with a 486 66mhz with a 420 MB HD and 8 GB of ram and running Windows 3.1 purchased in 1995. I upgraded to Windows 95 a few months after getting it. I ended up donating it to the Salvation Army after getting a new PC in or around 1999. I really regret doing that. I think it would be cool to have a 25 year old antique like that. I suppose I could find a similar system on eBay, but my apartment is currently completely cluttered as my family home was sold last week. That meant all those boxes of things I was storing there had to be either thrown away or brought here. It also included my mother's 2 most recent PCs. One of them was only a couple of years old. I bought it for her because I thought her then PC was just too slow. I just refurbished it as an HTPC for my nephew's father. I just reconnected and started the older one this morning. I was reminded why I had decided to buy my mom a new one. OMG it is slow. It took 30 seconds to open a picture. It's an HP tower running an AMD E1-2500, with 4GB of ram and a 500GB HD. I looked up the CPU and apparently it was intended for low end notebooks. Which is really interesting because this desktop uses an external power supply like a notebook. But it is soooo slow. It can't just be the lack of an SSD. My mother was constantly getting her PC loaded up with malware. I finally figured out where it was coming from. She would go to infected websites to read spoilers for General Hospital. I had set up her new PC to boot without requiring a password. I ended up creating an account without administrative privileges so the infected sites couldn't install malware. But as I said I just set that up as an HTPC. But I don't know anyone else that needs/would want an HTPC and this PC doesn't have HDMI out anyway, only analog graphics. Any suggestions on what to do with it? I am leaning towards just salvaging the hard drive and maybe the ram. I wonder if I could get Windows 3.1 to run on it?
  2. I looked in to updating my Bios but I've decided against it. While I was in the Bios I tried to adjust the memory speed so I would actually get the 3200 mhz Corsair says the RAM is rated for. But after I did that my screen went blank and even trying 2 different monitors there was no video output. I cleared the CMOS and its working again. But this experience has convinced me to heed the warning about not updating your bios if your system is working well. But thank you very much for your suggestions.
  3. Thanks guys. I unplugged the PC, pulled the CMOS battery, and pressed the power button for 20 Mississippis. It's supposed to be done after 10 seconds but I doubled it just to be sure. then I left it for an hour before I put everything back. I am typing this on that PC so it must have worked. Thank you so much. I think i'll leave the memory speed set to auto. Ultimately this is a HTPC and I doubt I'll be doing much video rendering here. The only reason I adjusted it is because AMD is supposed to benefit from faster RAM and I paid for 3200 mhz and I like to tinker. I was thinking of updating the Bios because it was suggested as a possible fix for an issue I have wit this PC connected to my TV. For some reason, the TV has to "rediscover" the PC every time I turn it on. But it's only an annoyance and there is no guarantee an update would fix it. Smart TVs can be pretty stupid sometimes. Thank you again.
  4. I built a HTPC with am Asrock B550m Pro4 motherboard, a Ryzen 5 3400G CPU and 16 GB of CORSAIR - Vengeance LPX (2PK x 8GB) 3.2 GHz DDR4 RAM. I do not have a discrete GPU in the system. I recall from when I built my first system that 3200 memory doesn't run at 3200 unless you go into the bios and set it to that speed. That worked the first time I did it, though that was with an Intel board. But this time after I saved and exited, my screen went blank. I had a TV connected via HDMI, but I tried connecting an Acer monitor via HDMI and an even older Acer monitor via D Sub, but no video signal. I am thinking maybe I should have left the memory speed alone... I am guessing the memory is unstable and because the integrated graphics use 2 GB of system RAM as video RAM I am getting no video signal. I have 3 ideas on how to proceed. First, I could try removing the RAM and installing different modules from a different manufacturer. That might switch the memory speed setting back to "auto." I have some Team T-Force RAM that is also supposed to be 3200 speed and some DD4 RAM from an Asus prebuilt. My second idea is to try to "clear the CMOS." Am I right that would reset all the bios settings? Third, I could remove the GPU from my main system and temporarily put it in this system. Or if the memory is unstable would that mean it wouldn't even boot into the bios? What would you guys recommend?
  5. Thanks. I'll let you know how that works out. I agree with you about the smart remotes. Remember when you could just enter a channel manually? I have an Asus PC I bought at the same time as this TV and I used to have it connectred to it. But then last year I decided to build a PC and the Asus went into the closet. After I moved and bought a QLED TV for my living room I tried connecting the Asus in my bedroom. I had a few problems with it causing me to have to swap out its SSD. But one issue was that when I first turned it on it would flash on and off. Like 1 second on, 4 seconds off. If I switched inputs for 15 minutes when I came back it had stopped flashing. I tried swiching out the HDMI cable but no change. But if I used am HDMI cable to connect to a monitor it worked perfectly. Other PCs connected to the same HDMI port worked fine as well (aside from this detection issue). Sometimes electronics just have gremlins that don't make sense.
  6. I just realized I added to the thread instead of replying to you. But I just posted a longer reply.
  7. I've contacted Samsung many times. Most recently, they said I should unplug the TV and hold the power button on the TV for 10 seconds, then after a few minutes plug it back in. The problem is there are no controls on the TV, only on the remote. I need to contact them for a 6th time I guess. I just want the thing to stop detecting new devices and leave everything as it is. Yesterday, I left it unplugged about 20 minutes and plugged it back in. The last input was HDMI 2 and it started there and when I turned on the PC I saw Asrock splash screen and it booted into Windows. I thought "wow its fixed." Then about 45 seconds later it started detecting the PC I was already watching/looking at. Definetly a first world problem, but annoying just the same. I think the diference is more to do with the PC. For some reason the TV won't detect this PC when turned off, but will detect other PCs or devices that are off but plugged in. Something is different about this one and I don't know of its the motherboard, PSU or CPU. I think it's probbaly the motherboard or PSU. I suppose I could try swapping them out. I am waiting for Gigabyte to return a B450 DS3H WiFi board I sent in for warranty service because it wouldn't boot. I got tired of waiting and picked up the Asrock B550m Pro 4 at MicroCenter because it was available for only $118 and in stock even as most AMD boards were out of stock most places. Do you know if there is some setting somewhere that might be affecting powered off detection?
  8. Sorry, I wasn't around and didn't get a chance to check back here yesterday. My TV is the second one in the Samsung.com link. The one on Best Buy's website has 2 legs, while mine has the center stand. This is the link to the TV on Best Buy's website. In actuality it appears I bought the TV in January 2018, not 2017. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-55-class-led-mu7000-series-2160p-smart-4k-uhd-tv-with-hdr/5773701.p?skuId=5773701 I took a vodeo of the detection process but the file ended up too large to email to myself so I took a screen capture. I know there are probably easier ways to get media off my phone, but I don't take that many pictures or video. It took 55 seconds from the moment I turned the PC on until it failed. I then hit manual, then cancel and it went to the desktop. Thanks for your help.
  9. The model is UN55MU7000FXZA. I bought it at Best Buy in 2017. When the TV detects a new device, or in this case the same device powered on, the screen goes kind of greyish blue and it says "detecting device." Usually after a successful detection it will say "changing source to PC" and change to the PC input. That input is actually HDMI 2. Sometimes it has some issue and says it could not detect the device and offers to let me manually configure. But when I try to manually configure PC is not a choice. That manual detection only lasts until I turn the PC on again. If there is a way to manually configure the source list, I haven't found it. I have tried turning off Anynet+ which according to some Samsung forum posts should stop the TV from detecting new HDMI devices. But it hasn't actually had any effect that I have noticed.
  10. I have preferred to keep a HTPC connected to my TVs since before TVs got "smart.". I've had a 55" MU7000 Samsung TV since 2017 and connected several PCs to it over the last 3 years. My TV would "discover" the PC when it was first connected, but the PC Tile would remain in the home row unless the HDMI cable was disconnected or the PC unplugged from the outlet. I just built a new PC with a 3400G CPU, an Asrock B550M Pro4 motherboard, and an EVGA 500W 80+ PSU. The problem is that whenever I turn off my PC, the next time I turn it on my TV has to "discover" it all over again. This can take several minutes and is quite annoying. The only thing I can think of is that with most PCs some tiny amount of power must be running through the system even when powered off and that power is enough for the TV to remember the PC is connected. The PC I built, either because of the motherboard or PSU is not letting that power through to maintain a connection to the TV. But that is just a guess. I haven't been able to get any help from Samsung. Does anyone know if I have correctly diagnosed the issue? If so is their some setting I can tweak to keep my PC connected to the TV even when powered off? Thanks.
  11. Speaking of mistakes. On my first PC build, I thought it would be nice if it could play 4K Blurays, so I bought a 4K internal drive. Then I discovered in order to play a 4K disk I would need Cyberlink Power DVD software that cost more than the drive did. Since I am the only one with access to my PC, I wanted it to boot without asking for a password. But the 4K DRM wouldn't allow me to play a 4K movie unless I had a higher level of security enabled. So I decided that occasionally playing a 4K movie was not worth the daily inconvenience. I ended up hardly using it. Fast forward a year and I started folding at home and found my 9900K would run way too hot unless I disabled most of the cores. I decided to upgrade from a Hyper 212 to a 360mm AIO. That's when I realized it wouldn't fit with an optical drive installed. Which is how that drive ended up on a shelf. I actually have a an external DVD burner sitting in a box. I got it about 15 years ago and it is quite bulky by modern standards. I also have a kit that will let me connect an internal SATA hard drive via USB 3. I imagine it would work with my bluray drive, though I wouldn't be shocked to discover there is a reason it wouldn't work. But at the moment the drive is connected internally but sticking out of the case. I think I'll leave it like that until I come across a larger case I like that isn't too expensive. If/when I get that board back from Gigabyte I'll build something with it and that something will probably need a case.
  12. I didn't try it with the 3200G, but this B550 board works with my 3400G. I know AMD started backtracking on ending backwards compatibility, but I think they would have worked together regardless. The 3200G and 3400G are the highest end AMD CPUs with integrated graphics. I would think ASROCK would want their boards to be compatible, otherwise why would they put HDMI, Display Port, and D-Sub in their rear IO?
  13. I've been trying to build myself a HTPC for my bedroom for a couple of months now. I built a system with a Ryzen 3200G and a Gigabyte DS3H Wifi MicroAtx board, but it wouldn't post. I decided to order a second DS3H Wifi board ($89 for a B450 w/integrated WiFi seemed like a really good deal), an Athlon processor, and additional memory. Because of the way shipping was delayed, by the time I identified the first board was the issue it was too late to return it so I had to send it to Gigabyte for warranty service. In the meantime, I built the system with the second board and it worked fine. I built it in a Deepcool Matrexx 30 case (with a tempered glass side panel and only $35 on Amazon) I even threw in a bluray drive I had sitting on a shelf because I have lots of DVDs and blurays acquired when they were a thing. But then my sister bought a house and I decided to build her a PC as a housewarming present. But I decided not to wait for the 1st board to be returned and took the board out of the PC I had just built. Her PC came out really nice. I thought about buying another board but pricing and availability been crazy lately. But then I saw Micro Center had an Asrock B550m Pro4 MATX board for $114. I picked it up yesterday and today I rebuilt my PC with it. Oh and I had put the 3200G in the PC for my sister and I upgraded to a 3400G. I had left the power cables in place for cable management. The weird thing was I had to remove them because the new board, also Micro ATX, was wider and covered more of the cable management openings. But I plugged in all the cables. I had removed the screws holding the optical drive in place so I could move it forward to make it easier to fit the board in the case. But when I went to push it back into place I discovered it blocked by the 24 pin connector. Shows what I know. The DS3H is 9.6" X 8.5" but Micro ATX can be as large as 9.6" X 9.6". So I guess my choices are to forget the optical drive, buy a larger case, or replace the B550 with the B450 if and when I ever get it back. Or I suppose I can just have the drive stick out 1.1"... If mistakes are the best way to learn I will soon be an expert. Thanks for listening guys. I just felt like venting.
  14. Ironically, it seems like I always end up with Gigabyte motherboards. But none came with adapters that i've seen. I've bought three so far, though one I've had to RMA to Gigabyte because it wouldn't boot. Unfortunately, with all the Covid shipping delays, by the time I could identify the board as the problem I was past my 30 day return window. God knows how long it will be before I get a replacement back. If I wanted to just buy a new board, they are almost impossible to find.