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About JogerJ

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  1. I get the notion to partition drives. Back in the day, if the windows OS is screwed up by some virus or data corruption, you're forced to reformat the whole partition (cure all solution for most of the time), hence people partition their drives to separate system data and personal data. That way only system data would be lost, so you get a fresh install of windows and can then do virus removal on the data partition. Basically people tried to emulate having two drives with a single drive. This is however no longer much of a concern. In a modern Windows 10 system there are repair tools readily available that can perform system repair/restore. If that doesn't work, you can always use a Windows USB installer to "fix" corrupted system data or even use a live linux USB to backup files to another drive. In my experience Windows has a pretty redundant system backup/restore feature, which is part of the pre-generated partitions you saw during initial install. The only use of partitioning a drive nowadays would either be to install different OS, use different disk formatting (e.g. as an exchange drive that can be accessed by multiple OS) or just to separate personal data so you won't accidentally format them. It won't provide additional virus protection, it won't provide performance boosts with an SSD.
  2. Delete everything you did, then install on one partition (single unallocated space block). After install finishes, you can split the "C:" partition into "D:"
  3. Recently I got myself a cheap used monitor for a secondary monitor that supports DisplayPort for 50€, which unfortunately didn't come with a display cable. No matter. I already used the HDMI ports on my GPU, so I figured I could use the DP port that's free on the GPU. So I was looking for a DP cable to do the job. Since it's a 75Hz 1080p monitor (basically nothing special), I wanted to cheap out as much as I can with the cable. And then I read about the 20 pin DP_PWR debacle and how allegedly it can short-circuit and be harmful for my GPU. The only guarantee people have been saying is to get a VESA certified DP cable. Yet, here are several problems that I found with trying to buy a VESA certified DisplayPort cable: Most cable manufacturers seem to won't bother having their cables VESA certified (VESA ceritication requires membership which cost a fee, yet so does HDMI though). Those who do are certifying their high-end cables that supports DP 1.4, which I know I won't need, and then they sell their cables at about double the price of no-brand cables that "claims" to do the same, or even more compared to DP 1.2 cables. VESA's website lists around a thousand registered products while HDMI lists nearly 2000 "adopters" (which may have more than one product each). Sellers would sometimes advertise their product to be VESA certified and supposedly you can check its validity on VESA's website, but the problem is the seller doesn't always use the brand/name of the manufacturer's. Take for example the AmazonBasics DisplayPort, which lists itself as VESA certified, yet you can't find Amazon on the list in VESA's database. In fact, a lot of the listings are made by OEM manufacturers, which are often not mentioned at all when the actual end product reaches the customer. After reading reviews, it turns out somebody commented that the 20 pin on the AmazonBasics cable is active, even though it's supposedly VESA certified. The usage of the DP logo supposedly indicates the product to be VESA certified, which unfortunately is easy to fake and there doesn't seem to be any countermeasures taken against it. If the cable you're using isn't VESA certified and turns out to be defective that it damages your GPU/MB/Monitor/device, your warranty may become void because it's technically "misuse/improper use/operation outside of specifications". The device manufacturer would blame the cable manufacturer and vice versa. At least with uncertified HDMI cables, you're not at risk of short-circuit that happens because of intentional design of the cable. There's uncertainty whether a DP cable is "safe" to buy and as a consumer I wouldn't bother getting a multi-meter to check whether my 20 pin is connected or not. If this were an HDMI cable, at least I don't have to worry about getting a certified cable in the first place, there's no risk of damage by default, at most you probably don't get the correct display resolution/colors or similar problems (short-circuit occurrences with HDMI I could find were caused by the device connected to being faulty or bad wiring/grounding on the connected devices [1][2][3], not the display cable itself). In the end I settled for a DP8K certified cable, I couldn't find anything cheaper that's verified VESA certified. It's overkill, completely unnecessary, yet I don't want to fry my electronics either. EDIT: More info on 20 pin problem, which just shows how the problem has persisted for years and how it's still relevant today: https://www.tenforums.com/graphic-cards/137524-experienced-pin-20-display-port-problem.html https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/is-19-vs-20-pins-displayport-still-a-thing.3017713/ https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/a1nmej/psa_please_do_not_use_dp_cables_provided_with/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#DP_PWR_Pin
  4. Check logs. If it says no WU found for your configuration then there's no WU for you... yet. Be patient, servers are keeping up with the supply of folders. Sometimes there's just nothing to compute yet. Actual people need to process the data we submit back to them before they can determine what the next things they want everyone to fold.
  5. It used to be the go-to emulator for android apps on windows, but by today's standards it's pretty dated still running Android 7. Nonetheless runs a lot of apps well, and if it ain't broke... Btw Nox has bloatware, but lets you easily root.
  6. What a run, guys! But, the event doesn't stop for me until we get this all finally wrapped up.