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rhyseyness

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Posts posted by rhyseyness


  1. 13 hours ago, Mr.Monkeyface said:

    I tested it on my multimeter and this is what I got.

    -snip-

    If this is a measurement out of circuit, looks like the resistor isn't dead.

    Dead resistors will read open circuit (>2Mohm). Massively unusual for them to fail and read anything other than short or open.

     

    As @Unimportant quite rightly says, you could be measuring something in parallel.

     

    On 3/8/2019 at 1:11 AM, campy said:

    But if it is a 0 ohm, you shouldnt need to replace it unless its physically damaged. Run a multimeter over it and see what it reads.

     

    This is not true.

    You'd definitely need to replace a 0 ohm resistor because it forms a connection in your circuit, just like a wire link.

    If a wire link snapped in half, you wouldn't say "you shouldn't need to replace it," haha.


  2. So after a few setbacks, it's finally done and mounted on the wall!

     

    I'm really pleased with how it's turned out.

    Had to change all my data wires over to something less stiff, but now they don't pull the pads off the strip.

     

    Video of the finished product mounted on the wall here:

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/1PmAuumD8c7UsFJf9

     

    Some photos too:

    Spoiler

    The box all screwed together with everything mounted inside.

    IMG_20190305_173914.thumb.jpg.f02f9b023aa63fa221e59c703c4d1812.jpg

     

    Wraparound connections to go between strips.

    IMG_20190305_190622.thumb.jpg.86fde7c3dca09e1cadc1443a388a75c6.jpg

     

    The final power and data connections to the strips.

    IMG_20190305_190633.thumb.jpg.ffb088620c3a24fe31be7871565bb5e6.jpg

     

    All working! :)

    IMG_20190305_214645.thumb.jpg.183bcfd3c28ee4b78b7ec962b56e5e98.jpg

     


  3. Put a good few hours into the project last night.

    Didn't have time to post an update here, but planning on having it finished this evening.

     

    Last night, I kind of restarted the LED part of the build, as when I tried to untangle the mess of LED strips, the data lines pulled their pads off the strip.

    I bought some new LEDs and the diffusers. Since the diffusers were a metre long, I made the LED strips for each band a metre long too.

    This means I've now got 420 LEDs (60 per band) rather than 300.

    The code will need a bit of adjustment to work with this.

     

    So, last night I cut the enclosure to fit the 3.5mm jack, power switch, power cord, LED wiring and USB input.

    I also sleeved all the LED wiring, and started mounting everything into the enclosure.

     

    All that's left to do is to mount the MSGEQ7 board in the enclosure, solder up all the LED strips, and mount them into the diffusers.

     

    I'll post a final update either tonight or tomorrow (hopefully with a video of it working!)

     

    Photos (in a random order):

    Spoiler

    IMG-20190304-WA0005.thumb.jpeg.eb4eb1874fb47bb582dc1b87c4e58dee.jpeg

    IMG_20190304_220133.thumb.jpg.ab796ef9775bf7487c9f1d1e01116242.jpg

    IMG_20190304_211028.thumb.jpg.5c292a4e68d7520ea0fe451d3bd8b37a.jpg

    IMG_20190304_210729.thumb.jpg.98069b3a2f15253a5496076a7eae763b.jpg

    IMG_20190304_210720.thumb.jpg.4a09127a11177d837567168c51e4e6ec.jpg

    IMG_20190304_205617.thumb.jpg.40db919a740580961ec542d59fba715d.jpg

    IMG_20190304_205613.thumb.jpg.3f5ec8e47e90480fb3f33875a610a731.jpg

    IMG_20190304_202602.thumb.jpg.5828e75c931bdba5331a47ae4133a9b9.jpg

    IMG_20190304_200526.thumb.jpg.1b6295f291bc0076aee340e9d820af76.jpg

    IMG_20190304_200519.thumb.jpg.0509caf4e0c9a15d957054de9adc6f57.jpg

    IMG_20190304_192351.thumb.jpg.2d11e76f291b2bbb7c94724ed6ba85df.jpg

    IMG_20190304_192349.thumb.jpg.4c0c73171eb1b0fffc0df1af8decfd24.jpg

     


  4. 13 hours ago, mariushm said:

    Well, my comments would be:

     

    * Those yellow capacitors are overkill. I would have used plain 0.1uF ceramic capacitors.

    * The power supply choice is kind of strange. I wouldn't have used such power supply for 15w max, considering you have to be careful about isolation and you have to solder the wires to the terminals.

    I would have used a 12v..18v wall-wart adapter (here's a $7 example) , or a regular 20-30VA linear transformer, and then a 12v to 5v switching power supply (if the voltage is higher than 5v). These are 1-2$ on eBay (here's a $0.99 example  ) or a few dollars at electronic distributors like Digikey, Farnell, Mouser etc 

    This would allow you to simply use a standard barrel jack connector to power

    * You can power the arduino board by soldering a couple of wires on the linear regulator by the barrel jack.  I think the big pin is Vout (5v) or Ground and one of the 3 pins on the other side is ground (Vin , gnd/adjust , Vout) ... so you could tap on the regulator instead of shoving wires into the IO and run 5v through the thin traces on the board.

    * I would have added a stereo jack on the tiny board with the equalizer thing

     

    I'm not sure what to think about using only red and black on the led strips, maybe data wire should be a different color but at least it's different thikness.

     

     

    All fair comments.

    Cheap was the name of the game here.

    All your suggestions make a lot of sense.

    The purchasing decisions were based on what I already had laying around and how inexpensive stuff was.

     

    The 0.1uF caps were what I had around from an old project (they were used for decoupling power supplies on that).

    I don't have a spare wall wart adapter or barrel jack laying around, but I do have a spare mains plug and twin and earth cable, hence the straight 240V->5V PSU (which was also only £12). 15W should be plenty for the application.

    All my stuff was from Mouser or RS components (so a little more expensive than ebay) as I was burnt initially buying the MSGEQ7's off ebay, which all had at least one band not working.

    Soldering onto the regulator would have been a way better idea than hot glueing into the power headers. I might change that later, I'm hardly pulling any power through the Arduino so shouldn't have a problem at least.

    Stereo jack is going to be mounted on the enclosure, so did it with flying leads so I could choose where to put it on the box (who needs signal integrity anyway right?).

    Different colours for the data would have been handy for building, but since it's going to be mounted on my wall, and I don't think I'm going to be able to hide all the data lines, I used black to try and make them less obvious. The different type was sufficient to not get them confused!

     

    If I was building again from scratch, and money no object, I'd have definitely done the power supply in a more efficient way, and I'd probably design a proper PCB for the Atmega and MSGEQ, rather than just mounting the entire dev board in the box!

     

    Cheers for the feedback, it's very much appreciated.

    To be perfectly honest I didn't put nearly enough thought into the power delivery.

    I went for quick and easy rather than a good engineering solution (which probably would have been less expensive too)!


  5. So after a little fault finding and A LOT more soldering, the electronics are up and running.

    All that's left now is the getting it in a box and making everything neat and tidy.

     

    The LEDs are all soldered to the power supply, each other, and broken out into 7 strips.

    I've ordered diffusers because the strips are super delicate now they're not in the plastic.

     

    I've tested them and they're look great.


    It's super messy right now.

    Needs untangling real bad, then can start getting bits into the box :)

    Spoiler

    IMG_20190302_154021.thumb.jpg.1e7902e7144087d0460839e551d06fc8.jpg

     

    IMG_20190302_154033.thumb.jpg.534ea6328d97737e6d9f000b744e8af6.jpg

     

    IMG_20190302_150102.thumb.jpg.115fe12d1f2813221335894d92cfb207.jpg

     

    IMG_20190302_174825.thumb.jpg.13b3d683e2c5f877a5ccee7b96f467da.jpg

     


  6. Update from yesterday afternoon's work.

    Started putting the system together.

     

    I've soldered the MSGEQ7 board together, and wired this into the power supply and arduino.

    The power supply board has had the mains power soldered on.

    I'll let the photos do the talking :)

     

    Work still remaining:

    • Machining of the box to allow connectors and switch to be mounted. Hole to get the LED wiring out too.
    • Power supply connections to the arduino
    • Fitting switch to the power supply input (I'l have to de-solder what I've done already to do this. I forgot it!)
    • Cutting LED's down to strips of 43.
    • Connecting dataline between arduino and LED strip.
    • Connecting power supply to each band's LED stip.
    • Gromits fitted to cable holes on the box.
    • Sleeving of external cables.
    • Mount PCBs in box.

    Photos:

    Spoiler

    Shiny new kit

    IMG_20190301_135134.thumb.jpg.9759518b034bee919c21ada01036fd98.jpg

     

    Power supply and mains input to be soldered

    IMG_20190301_140227.thumb.jpg.6c616272ed0bb6b013667ebfa01a9f02.jpg

     

    Power supply input soldered

    IMG_20190301_140935.thumb.jpg.277b9d0964e7af064e1e8ecdaf751fa6.jpg

     

    Worst soldering job in history! (No idea how I ever got J-STD qualified!)

    IMG_20190301_151218.thumb.jpg.89458ef996dbaaff896bb645f0846cdd.jpg

     

    Final layout

    IMG_20190301_153601.thumb.jpg.2ea7d1c5bcf970d32a3eff9e55499784.jpg

     

    Power supply soldered to MSGEQ7 board

    IMG_20190301_155052.thumb.jpg.6642947bfcd890eff1b1a15f2de87fff.jpg

     

    Arduino connections to MSGEQ7 made

    IMG_20190301_160623.thumb.jpg.17fc21d8eee12c0619a993e60c2551b4.jpg

    Putting these photos in I've noticed a fairly big problem with the audio input.

    10 internet points to anyone who notices it!

     

    More updates to come later today hopefully :)

     

     

     


  7. 16 hours ago, DubMFG said:

    I can appreciate the extensive commenting in your code! 

     

    There looks to be a short delay between the audio and the visual, I wonder what the interpolation delay is between the source and output. 

     

    With some diffusion on there I think that will be awesome! Perhaps you could use the strip to illuminate a frosted plexiglass panel  from the bottom, like this:

     

    -snip-

    Haha, thanks!

     

    The only delay should be the time for the main loop to run.

    I did experiment adding a delay on every main loop (see commented out delay of 50ms in "void loop"), but it just made the LEDs look weird with the audio.

    The only delays in there currently are the 40 microsecond ones requried for correct operation of the MSGEQ7. Everything else should be as fast as the arduino can do it!

     

    The delay of the MSGEQ7 is close to 0, but the loop certainly takes a little while to run. Initially I had the "for" loop in main go 1000 times between brightness setting, and that took about 10 seconds to update the LEDs. That suggests about 10ms per loop (input to output), and I think most of that is the FastLED library.

     

    I love the plexi glass idea- I'll have to look into the cost and how easy they'd be to wall mount without looking s***!

     

    I've got some diffusers sitting in my Amazon basket.

    Going to see how the LEDs look mounted bare on the wall before pulling the trigger (they're £35 for 10, which seems a little expensive to me!)


  8. I updated the code and hardware a bit today to include an ambient brightness adjustment.

    This uses a potential divider network with an LDR and a fixed resistor.

     

    It was a little bit jarring at first so I put some averaging in, which seems to have helped :)

     

    Now the LEDs brightness changes depending on the ambient brightness.

     

    Updated code below:

    Spoiler
    
    #include <FastLED.h> //Used to drive the WS2812B LED strip.
    
    #define STROBE_PIN 5 //output pin used to send strobe to equaliser
    #define RESET_PIN 7 //reset pin on equaliser
    #define AUDIO A5 //audio input pin
    #define BRIGHT A0 //brightness input pin
    
    //LED macros:
    #define LED_PIN 6 //Output pin used to send serial data to the LED strip
    #define NUM_LEDS 300 //total number of LEDs
    
    CRGB leds[NUM_LEDS]; //This is an object used to control the RGB LED strip. We have to tell it how many LEDs are in the strip.
    
    const int led_bands[8]{               //array defining the end of each audio band
      0, 42, 85, 128, 171, 214, 257, 300
    };
    
    int audioin[7]; //array defining the amplitude of each audio band
    int audioinfo[7]; //array defining the number of LEDs to be lit for each audio band
    int ledinfo[7]; //array defining LED brightness for each audio band
    int audioinaverage[49]; //array of 7 reads of the MSGEQ7 to be averaged
    int brightnessaverage[100]; //array for 100 reads of external brightness
    int red; //RGB red value 0-255
    int green; //RGB green value 0-255
    int blue; //RGB blue value 0-255
    int brightness; //LED brightness value
    int d; //main loop integer
    
    void setup() {
      //setup pins for I/O
      pinMode(STROBE_PIN, OUTPUT);
      pinMode(RESET_PIN, OUTPUT);
      pinMode(AUDIO, INPUT);
    
      //setup FastLED library
      FastLED.addLeds<WS2812, LED_PIN>(leds, NUM_LEDS); //This instructs the leds object to set up our LED strip. We have to tell it what kind of LEDs we're using (WS2812), how many LEDs we want to control, and what pin to use.
    
      //setup MSGEQ7 chip
      digitalWrite(STROBE_PIN,HIGH);
      digitalWrite(RESET_PIN, HIGH);
      delay(1);
      digitalWrite(RESET_PIN, LOW);
      delay(1);
    
      //adjustment for analgue reference on the chip
      analogReference(DEFAULT);
    }
    
    void loop() {
      setbrightness(0, 0); //sets LED brightness based on ambient light
      for(d=0; d<100; d++){
        readmsgeq(0); //function to read all audio bands 7 times and store the data in an array
        createarrays(0); //function to average the audio inputs, and create the arrays for LEDs to use
        writeleds(0, 0); //function to drive the LED strip
        FastLED.show(); //update the LED strip with the written values
        brightnessaverage[d]=analogRead(BRIGHT); //take a reading of brightness
        //delay(50); //currently unused delay
      }
    }
    
    void readmsgeq(int i){  
        for(i=0; i<49; i++){ //reads the MSGEQ7 49 times (7 values for each of the 7 frequency bands)
          digitalWrite(STROBE_PIN, LOW); //strobe pin pulsed low and high as per the datasheet
          delayMicroseconds(40);
          audioinaverage[i]=analogRead(AUDIO); //set the analog output of the MSGEQ7 to an integer value between 0-1024 (0-5V)
          digitalWrite(STROBE_PIN, HIGH);
          delayMicroseconds(40);
        }
    }
    
    void createarrays(int i){
      for(i=0; i<7; i++){ //create an average of the audio frequency band amplitude
        audioin[i]=(audioinaverage[i]+audioinaverage[i+7]+audioinaverage[i+14]+audioinaverage[i+21]+audioinaverage[i+28]+audioinaverage[i+35]+audioinaverage[i+42])/7;
      }
      
      audioin[6]=audioin[6]-30; //band 7 reads high (noise), so reduce by 30
      audioin[4]=audioin[4]-30; //band 5 reads high (noise), so reduce by 30
    
      for (i=0; i<7; i++){ //map analog values to number of LEDs to be written
        audioinfo[i]=map(audioin[i], 0, 950, 0, 43);
        if(audioinfo[i]<6){ //sets first 5 LEDs to "off" if volume is effectively 0
          audioinfo[i]=0;
        }
        }
    }
    
    void setbrightness(int i, long brightnessint){
      for(i=0; i<100; i++){ //loop to sum all 100 brightness readings
        brightnessint=brightnessint+brightnessaverage[i];
      }
      brightness=brightnessint/100; //averages all led brightness values read
      
      for (i=0; i<7; i++){ //map analog values to LED brightness and number of LEDs to be written
        ledinfo[i]=map(brightness, 70, 200, 100, 255);  //sets led brightness between 100 and 255 based on ambient light
        }
    }
      
    void writeleds(int i, int k){
      
      for(i=0; i<7; i++){ //light LEDs for each band
        int j=led_bands[i]+audioinfo[i]; //set end LED to j  based on frequency band volume
        for(k=led_bands[i]; k<=j; k++){ //light LEDs from start of band to end LED in that band
          if(k<(led_bands[i+1]-20)){ //first 23 LEDs set to green only
            red=0;
            green=ledinfo[i];
            blue=0;
          }
          else if(k<(led_bands[i+1]-10)){ //next 10 leds set to yellow
            red=ledinfo[i];
            green=ledinfo[i];
            blue=0;
          }
          else{ //last 10 leds set to red
            red=ledinfo[i];
            green=0;
            blue=0;
          }
          leds[k] = CRGB(green, red, blue); //set LED
        }
        j=led_bands[i+1]-(43-audioinfo[i]); //this part is just to write any not written LEDs to off, otherwise once written, the LED will never turn off
        for(k=led_bands[i+1]; k>=j; k--){
          leds[k] = CRGB(0, 0, 0);
        }
      }
    }

     

     

    My last few hardware bits (including a shiny new soldering iron) arrive tomorrow, so I can get on with the proper build.

    That's all for now.

    Next update is most likely to be Friday when I've got some free time after work.


  9. 16 hours ago, DubMFG said:

    Seems like the video got taken down for audio. Are you diffusing the light at all or just running straight LED strips? 

     

    Yea, I've disputed it, so hopefully be back up in a couple of days.

     

    I'm going to see how it looks once it's mounted and decide if it needs any diffusion or not.

    Right now it is pretty eye watering, so most likely will add a diffuser! 


  10. Welcome all to my graphic equaliser build log.

     

    A graphic equaliser is simply a graphic display of various frequency bands of audio.

    My plan is to build one from LEDs (specifically an LED strip), and mount it on my wall.

     

    I've actually done a fair bit of work on this so far, but I wanted to make sure i was going to actually finish the project before I posted about it.

    My plan is eventually to have this mounted on my wall.

     

    The basic operation is around the MSGEQ7 graphic equaliser chip and an Arduino Uno (Atmega 328p) microcontroller.

    The MSGEQ7 outputs an analogue voltage between 0 and 5V based on the amplitude of a given input within 1 of it's 7 frequency bands.

    The datasheet can be seen below for those of you who are interested:

    https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/MSGEQ7.pdf

    I can go into more detail on this if people are interested, but I won't waste my hypothetical breath on it if no one is!

     

    This output is connected to an analogue input on the Arduino, and read by the software.

    The Arduino then drives serial data to the WS2812S LED strip (using the FastLED library).

    The LED strip is RGB and 5m long (300 LEDs).

    I've split this into 7 frequency bands, so each 43 LEDs represents one frequency band.

     

    The idea is that each band lights up a number of LEDs based on the volume of the sound in that frequency band (i.e. a graphic equaliser).

     

    The software is the magic part of this project, so the code can be seen below, plus some photos.

     

    The next stage is to get the hardware soldered onto strip board, and cut up the LED strip into 7 parts.

    I'm hoping that the code doesn't need much change from this point as I am trash at software (I'm an electronics engineer) compared to hardware.

     

    I've put up a YouTube video of it in it's current state in operation (apologies for the trash quality. It was on my phone and YouTube compression, lol).

    https://youtu.be/rzZRBRx6bKg

     

    Any questions, fire away!

    I'll post updates as regularly as I do them :)

     

    Code:

    Spoiler
    
    #include <FastLED.h> //Used to drive the WS2812B LED strip.
    
    #define STROBE_PIN 5 //output pin used to send strobe to equaliser
    #define RESET_PIN 7 //reset pin on equaliser
    #define AUDIO A5 //audio input pin
    
    //LED macros:
    #define LED_PIN 6 //Output pin used to send serial data to the LED strip
    #define NUM_LEDS 300 //total number of LEDs
    
    CRGB leds[NUM_LEDS]; //This is an object used to control the RGB LED strip. We have to tell it how many LEDs are in the strip.
    
    const int led_bands[8]{               //array defining the end of each audio band
      0, 42, 85, 128, 171, 214, 257, 300
    };
    
    int audioin[7]; //array defining the amplitude of each audio band
    int audioinfo[7]; //array defining the number of LEDs to be lit for each audio band
    int ledinfo[7]; //array defining LED brightness for each audio band
    int audioinaverage[49]; //array of 7 reads of the MSGEQ7 to be averaged
    int red; //RGB red value 0-255
    int green; //RGB green value 0-255
    int blue; //RGB blue value 0-255
    
    void setup() {
      //setup pins for I/O
      pinMode(STROBE_PIN, OUTPUT);
      pinMode(RESET_PIN, OUTPUT);
      pinMode(AUDIO, INPUT);
    
      //setup FastLED library
      FastLED.addLeds<WS2812, LED_PIN>(leds, NUM_LEDS); //This instructs the leds object to set up our LED strip. We have to tell it what kind of LEDs we're using (WS2812), how many LEDs we want to control, and what pin to use.
    
      //setup MSGEQ7 chip
      digitalWrite(STROBE_PIN,HIGH);
      digitalWrite(RESET_PIN, HIGH);
      delay(1);
      digitalWrite(RESET_PIN, LOW);
      delay(1);
    
      //adjustment for analgue reference on the chip
      analogReference(DEFAULT);
    }
    
    void loop() {
      int i=0; //integers used for loops
      int k=0;
      readmsgeq(i); //function to read all audio bands 7 times and store the data in an array
      createarrays(i); //function to average the audio inputs, and create the arrays for LEDs to use
      writeleds(i, k); //function to drive the LED strip
      FastLED.show(); //update the LED strip with the written values
      //delay(50); //currently unused delay
    }
    
    void readmsgeq(int i){  
        for(i=0; i<49; i++){ //reads the MSGEQ7 49 times (7 values for each of the 7 frequency bands)
          digitalWrite(STROBE_PIN, LOW); //strobe pin pulsed low and high as per the datasheet
          delayMicroseconds(40);
          audioinaverage[i]=analogRead(AUDIO); //set the analog output of the MSGEQ7 to an integer value between 0-1024 (0-5V)
          digitalWrite(STROBE_PIN, HIGH);
          delayMicroseconds(40);
        }
    }
    
    void createarrays(int i){
      for(i=0; i<7; i++){ //create an average of the audio frequency band amplitude
        audioin[i]=(audioinaverage[i]+audioinaverage[i+7]+audioinaverage[i+14]+audioinaverage[i+21]+audioinaverage[i+28]+audioinaverage[i+35]+audioinaverage[i+42])/7;
      }
      
      audioin[6]=audioin[6]-30; //band 7 reads high (noise), so reduce by 30
      audioin[4]=audioin[4]-30; //band 5 reads high (noise), so reduce by 30
    
      for (i=0; i<7; i++){ //map analog values to LED brightness and number of LEDs to be written
        audioinfo[i]=map(audioin[i], 0, 1024, 0, 43);
        ledinfo[i]=map(audioin[i], 0, 1024, 0, 255);
        }
      for (i=0; i<7; i++){ //set output to 0 if no input detected (<40)
        if(ledinfo[i]<40){
          ledinfo[i]=0;
        }
      }
    }
      
    void writeleds(int i, int k){
      
      for(i=0; i<7; i++){ //light LEDs for each band
        int j=led_bands[i]+audioinfo[i]; //set end LED to j  based on frequency band volume
        for(k=led_bands[i]; k<=j; k++){ //light LEDs from start of band to end LED in that band
          if(k<(led_bands[i+1]-15)){ //first 38 LEDs set to green only
            red=0;
            green=ledinfo[i];
            blue=0;
          }
          else if(k<(led_bands[i+1]-5)){ //next 5 leds set to yellow
            red=ledinfo[i];
            green=ledinfo[i];
            blue=0;
          }
          else{ //last 5 leds set to red
            red=ledinfo[i];
            green=0;
            blue=0;
          }
          leds[k] = CRGB(green, red, blue); //set LED
        }
        j=led_bands[i+1]-(43-audioinfo[i]); //this part is just to write any not written LEDs to off, otherwise once written, the LED will never turn off
        for(k=led_bands[i+1]; k>=j; k--){
          leds[k] = CRGB(0, 0, 0);
        }
      }
    }

     

    Photos:

    Spoiler

    IMG_20190222_144652.jpg

    IMG_20190222_144658.jpg

    IMG_20190222_144752.jpg

    IMG_20190222_144642.jpg

     


  11. 3 hours ago, firelighter487 said:

    i'm low silver /bronze so you're a lot better than me xD.

    Haha! Higher SR =/= better.

    I know plenty of boosted master players who would be silver/gold if they solo queued!


  12. 24 minutes ago, firelighter487 said:

    nah not really. i can get X5690's for €50 per cpu if i'm patient and wait for a good listing.

     

    i'd rather have an 8600K but it's too expensive for me. my entire pc cost the same as an 8600K. so there's that lmao..

    do you play on US or EU servers? i usually play on US servers... i'd love to add you but i need to know what region.

    That's not too bad. It was over $1000 at launch!

    I reckon that's what I'd do.

     

    I play on both, but EU way more than US.

    I'm only high gold/low plat and a main tank/hitscan main.


  13. 11 minutes ago, firelighter487 said:

    i originally bought this GTX 690 for fun, because i thought it was interesting being a dual-gpu card. i've been very impressed with the performance.

    there is. the X5690. that has a clock speed of 3.46ghz... now i have 2.66ghz... the problem is those are kinda rare and not officially supported for my machine (i'm running a prebuilt server) but i do have a board that will support those. now that i'm running into issues with these i might buy 2 X5690's and use that other board.

     

    there are slightly higher clocked quadcore chips i believe, but those have basically no difference in price from the hexacore core chips so i might as well go for the hexacore chips.

    tbh not really lmao... but i multitask a lot. sometimes for school i have a VM or two open, about 50 tabs, a few word documents, etc... and with this machine i can have all that open and still go play a game if i want a break from homework without closing everything else.

     

    also not having to worry at all about what i have open because this system is OP as hell is very nice. i just don't have to think about it. i can open whatever i want on it and expect it to be fast.

     

    i originally built this machine for the same reason i bought the GTX 690. i thought it was interesting, and i've always wanted to experience a 12-core system.

    All makes good sense!

    If I was in your position, I'd be swapping to the X5690- that clock bump is huge!

    I think it will solve your problem... but mega expensive by the looks of it!

     

    I think I'd go hexacore, but it's up to you if you need the 12 cores or not.

     

    Best of luck my dude.

    Jealous of all your cores (from an 8600K user and fellow overwatch player! rhyseyness#2637)


  14. 4 minutes ago, firelighter487 said:

    crossfire isn't SLI. it's completely different and much more broken.

     

    and i don't wanna run without SLI because if i do that i might as well swap the 690 out for a 780Ti i have laying around. the 690 without SLI is basically a lower clocked 680 so... pretty bad by todays standards.

    Yea, I know, completely agree with you.

    I moved to nVidia and vowed never to use crossfire again because of my experiences with it.

     

    I understand your thought process, and I'd be doing the exact same thing if I was in your position.

    5 minutes ago, firelighter487 said:

    yea i was afraid of that. that's really annoying. i could use the i5 system but then i'd have to use Windows 10... which i don't wanna do. so...

    Yea it sucks :( 

    Not sure if there's a faster processor (for single core workloads) you can buy for that socket, that's still got the horsepower you need.

    I'm not up on the Xeon sku's I'm afraid so can't make a recommendation.

     

    I'd always recommend better single core for gaming, but I'm guessing beacuse you have a xeon system with 12 cores, you do a lot more than just game!

     

    I'm afraid as it stands, doesn't look like there's a cheap solution to your problem, without using your other system :(


  15. 42 minutes ago, firelighter487 said:

    they aren't. i'm running 391.35. the problem is that if i update them to the latest one, my pc bluescreens, restarts, and then won't go to the login screen. it will bluescreen before it gets there.

    Fair enough. That's unlikely an issue.

    42 minutes ago, firelighter487 said:

    none of the core's are maxed out though...

    I think there will be short periods of time (milliseconds) where the cores are maxed out.

    It's just not captured by task manager.

    I believe that's when you're seeing the stuttering.

    44 minutes ago, firelighter487 said:

    i do have a core i5 machine laying around, and that didn't have these issues, but yea i don't want to setup a seperate machine just for this game.

    Unfortunately looks like the lower single core performance of the Xeon is causing the issue.

    I agree, you don't want to have seperate machines for some games, haha!

    47 minutes ago, firelighter487 said:

    i did notice the vram (2gb) maxes out from time to time, but if it does it doesn't stutter immediately.

    also i don't want to turn down the settings. if you look at the screenshots you'll notice max usage on my gpu is 68%....

    Yea, I agree that I don't think the GPU is the issue...

    Just a quick thought, have you tried running without SLI?

    I don't know how overwatch performs with SLI... it wasn't great on my old 290X's in crossfire.

     

    I'm fairly confident from what you've said that it's your CPU single core performance that's hurting you :(


  16. Drop the settings to medium and see if it persists.

    Check your graphics drivers are up to date.

     

    It sounds like your frame rate is dropping when a lot is happening in game.

    Overwatch is pretty CPU heavy (compared to GPU), and your CPU is pretty slow (single threaded performance).

     

    If dropping the graphics settings down doesn't help, it looks like you might be CPU bound, and will need to overclock/upgrade.

    Overclocking is near impossible on Xeon chips, so it COULD be time for a new CPU.

     

    Drop the graphics settings down first though and make sure it's not just that your graphics card can't keep up.

     

    Hope this helps :)


  17. It worries me that the laptop is on in one of these photos.

    Turn it off, and don't turn it on until that battery has been replaced.

     

    Be careful if you're trying to remove the battery and replace it yourself.

    The fact that it's bulging rather than just exploding is probably a good sign, but replace it ASAP.

     

    Please do not turn on that laptop again with that battery in.

    It could literally explode in your lap.

     

    Hope this helps :) (sorry it's bad news!)


  18. So I just (literally 2 weeks ago) got a Dell S2417DG.

    It's amazing.

     

    165Hz, G-sync, 1440p, 24".

     

    I couldn't find anything else that competes with it.

    27" seems way more common, but also more expensive, so this Dell one was perfect for me. 

    Also a 24" fits way better on my desk... and dat pixel density.

     

    Highly recommended.

     

    I paid £400 for mine, where it was £600+ for the 27" ones.

     

     

    In terms of graphics cards, I use a 1070ti for mine, but I only play Overwatch and CS:GO.

    Probably want a 1080ti, or 2070 to play any triple A titles on it at 150fps+.

     

    With g-sync, lower frame rates are way less of an issue, so just gotta decide how much you're willing to spend on a graphics card, and how low of a frame rate you can deal with.

     

    Hope this helps :)


  19. If you're using 2 different audio outputs from you PC (i.e. front and rear speaker out), you won't be able to play out of both devices at the same time.

    Windows will only put audio through the default device.

     

    The headphone splitter will play the same audio through both devices at the same time, with little to no control.

     

    I'd recommend you get a mixer and/or amp to plug both the speakers and headset in to.

    This will be one output from the PC so windows won't have to do anything special, and you can adjust the volume for both devices individually on the mixer/amp.

     

    Windows is not good at splitting out audio to different devices/dealing with multiple devices at the same time.

    I'm not sure it's even possible without some very specialised software.

     

    Hope this helps :)


  20. Clock speeds and memory speeds are almost irrelevant when comparing 2 different model graphics cards.

    Use performance benchmarks to judge which card is better value/better performing.

    A 1080Ti will beat a 1080 in pretty much any workload, regardless of the clock speed difference you describe.


  21. 21 hours ago, homeap5 said:

    As I said - "or first, as you want". It all depends on few factors. I have USB pendrive with linux just in case, so for me boot from USB with live linux is just few seconds. If you must prepare everything to do that - it's too much in fact.

     

    And you don't give any other solution than me.

    I wasn't trying to fight you, haha.

    I'm just saying booting to Linux isn't easy for most people (it certainly wouldn't be for me!)

     

    I agree with checking your sound settings, and there's not a lot else he can do until we know the outcome of that.

    "Any other solution" can't be suggested until we know whether his settings are right, and sound should be being produced.


  22. 27 minutes ago, homeap5 said:

    This changes everything, isn't? :)

    It means that audio don't work at all, not just front panel.

     

    Frist - diagnostics. Boot from any USB drive with Ubuntu and check if audio works. If works under Ubuntu - drivers are problem. If not - hardware may be a problem.

     

    Second (or first, as you want) - check sound settings, maybe HDMI is default output device for sound. So change it.

     

    Boot into Linux is not your first troubleshooting step.

    You can find if it's a hardware or software problem without doing that.

     

    Check your default audio device in windows first.

    It should be set to "realtek high definition audio," or something similar :)

     

    Hope this helps.

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