Jump to content

Lennart van de Merwe

Member
  • Posts

    254
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Lennart van de Merwe

  1. So I need to: first unplug the connectors, then plug put in my volt meter stick thingys accordingly (and at the same label so -5 v and +5 volt on the other). And lastly activate the device. Then I should get the right readin, right?
  2. Should I go and plug it in and try to see what might be the problem? Or would that be dangerous (of course I won't be touching the unit as long as it's activated).
  3. So I have this home cinema set (a philips HTS7200 to be exact) that I got from my steph Dad when he didn't 'need' it anymore (I think he was also having some troubles with the receiver tbh) and it sort of worked for a while for me only using its aux. Then I got a new TV with the ability to use optical audio cables to hook it up to a home cinema setup, so I bought one of those fancy cables, hooked it up and it work. For a single week. After a week I turned on the receiver and then lights went out (on the device itself), went back on and then shut the whole thing down. So I opened it up, only to be faced with the usual things: exposed PSU, transistors bent in ... interesting ways and an alien looking substance on certain parts of the mobo and the exposed psu. So just take a look at the pictures and please leave your thoughts on whether it has been what has been making my receiver be a piece of shit or nah. (if nahm, pls gib explain why). Also, can I fix this? EDIT: I have a growing suspicion that the alien substances is badly applied glue, still dunno what the problem with the receiver is though.
  4. Update, didn't manage to open it but when I had all screws out of the back and tried to turn it on (so with the fan somewhere random in the receiver) it fucking turned on and worked perfectly fine. This is hilarious.
  5. So I have a phillips HTS 7200 2.1 home cinema set and the receiver/dvd player is acting up because when I press the power button it turns and then shuts itself down again for seemingly no reason. I have tried it without anything but the power cord plugged in so it wasn't any of the speakers shorting out, but with no good result. I think I should open this bad boy up to see what's happened inside, but on the back it basically has a billion warnings for electrocution (I expect an exposed PSU so I don't take that too serious)/ But also "Visible and invisible lasers" which sounds epic and like there's an awesome rave going down inside of my receiver, but I don't know whether to take it seriously (might just be to scare of people from opening and killing themselves with the exposed psu). Any ideas on what to do and whether I can open this bad boy up without killing myself with the invisible lasers?
  6. Have you plugged in the monitor, mouse and keyboard? check the cables is what I'm saying.
  7. Fam, a gt 750ti is over budget, less powerful and is the exact opposite of baller looking. 950 is are also over budget and still less powerful then say gtx 670 that I can get for 50 euros. Also the gtx 950 isn't that baller looking either.
  8. I'm currently using a Sabaj PHA2 DAC amp and I'm loving it, though it does require you -in this case- to use a USb to analog audio converter. The thing cost me about 55 pounds (I was using british amazon).
  9. Sorry, but I forgot to mention that AMD gpus won't work (probably). That is because this mobo has an gt 630 m and I think that Nvidia drivers and Radeon drivers trying to work in an OS at the same time won't work. I'll take a look into gtx 580s and 590s. Also I found a -maybe not so baller looking- gtx 670 for only 50.- and that is one hell of a deal so I might even go for the performance option. Not sure tho.
  10. Tbh I haven't watched much of the second gen ryzen series so I'll take the blame.
  11. It's a decent build, but that cpu is way too powerful to be paired with a 1050ti. I'd say at least a 1070 with a ryzen 1700 or ryzen 5 1500/1600
  12. So this is one of many posts about my "turning a laptop into a desktop" project. So it's an asus k75v laptop with Intel core i7 3610QM, 6gb of ram (gonna upgrade to 8 gigs) and a gt 630 m (pure trash). So I've already done an operation which got me a working laptop with screen without the whole body and integrated keyboard and trackpad. My plan is to make a custom case which is almost completely open (because that is easier and because it looks epic). To have a better gpu I've bought one of those gpu to wifi card thingies (yes I know it is not going to get the full bandwidth needed but I'm willing to make a sacrifice). I'm going to get to point: I want a low price baller looking GPU that in performance range fits with the 3610QM (which is, with good cooling like I have now, still a decent gaming cpu). Price can be up to 60 European rupees and of course the idea is to buy one second hand (just saying for clarification). So any ideas? I'm open to suggestions and questions about everything in this project so ask away if you must. Thanks in advance!
  13. Well wattage wise you should be good, though the VS-series is kind of trashy so to guarantee the safety of your new components get a new psu and this time maybe from the cx-series.
  14. I've made a bootable usb drive with Ubuntu for the laptop in question, plugged it in and booted into the bios, the problem is: there is no option to boot from a usb. It is an old bios, so do I need to update or whatever?
  15. Is there an easy to run (as for hardware) operating system that can run off of a usb drive? If I were to guess it would be some form of Linux, though I do not know much about Linux so please tell me which one. The only thing the OS has to do is deal with the amazing power of an ancient AMD chip (dunno which one) and run an HTML file stored on the same usb drive (and if possible VLC media player or something similar, but that isn't the most important thing). Please tell me if this isn't possible, because else I'll be wasting lots of time.
  16. It isn't a scam for how much I can see, but it is overpriced.
  17. Okay I'm still alive and the whole shlabang is working without the battery plugged in
  18. 230 V ya dumdum, but what I mean that the cable from the powerbrick that goes into the standard thing of the laptop for power which then goes into the mobo. Edit: thank you
×