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Force Gaia

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About Force Gaia

  • Birthday Feb 23, 1992

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    ForceGaia#7848
  • Steam
    force_gaia

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nottingham, UK
  • Occupation
    Software Engineer

System

  • CPU
    Intel - Core i7-8700K
  • Motherboard
    Asus - ROG MAXIMUS X HERO
  • RAM
    G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200
  • GPU
    Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB AORUS Xtreme Edition
  • Case
    EVGA - DG-86 ATX Full Tower Case
  • Storage
    Samsung - 960 EVO 250 GB, Crucial - MX500 1 TB, 2x Seagate - BarraCuda Pro 10 in RAID 1
  • PSU
    Corsair - HX1000i Corsair
  • Display(s)
    Acer Predator XB271HUbmiprz
  • Cooling
    Custom Water Loop with motherboard monoblock and GPU full-cover cooled by 420 and 360 radiators.
  • Keyboard
    Corsair - Vengeance K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard
  • Mouse
    Corsair - Scimitar Pro RGB Wired Laser Mouse
  • Sound
    Creative Labs - Inspire T6160 50W 5.1ch Speakers
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit
  • PCPartPicker URL

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Force Gaia's Achievements

  1. Just tried the advice to start without the cooler and no dice, it still does it. Didn't seem scary, it's a step I've done before and forgot this time. Also reseated the cpu again, tried moving ram sticks around again. Any other ideas?
  2. So I had a pc i was moving to a new case as it was being superseded, and it was being put in a "lesser" case to serve as a backup PC. The issue is that while the components booted before, they don't now. Now i get a cycle of tries to turn on for a few seconds, then stops, and tries again. No Display at all, and i have no speaker for a POST beep, but i have some on order. The things that have changed are the case and CPU cooler, plus losing a load of hard drives. The CPU cooler is where i messed up. It went from an aging AIO to a Hyper 212X, and while i was installing the 212X I released i had goofed and had over-tightened the cooler onto the socket as i missed out some spacers on the standoffs thus making them too low for the screws and I'd "Compensated". I fixed this but fear the damage has been done. I've tested with a known good PSU and without the GPU and SSD, with a mixture of ram configurations - aiming to just get a display and POST - but still the fan-spin then stop cycling persists. Is there anything else i can try to find the culprit? As i don't have a CPU or motherboard i can swap, and I've ruled out the PSU and GPU. Components: CPU - Intel 7700K Cooler - Hyper 212X motherboard - Gigabyte Z170 Gaming GPU - Nvidia GTX 1080 PSU - Seasonic Evo II PSU
  3. So I'm potentially thinking of the 3080/90 then? i thought that the 3070 did it too?
  4. It's not the total TDP that concerns me, it's more the potentially spiky draw that could potentially trip the OCP on lesser PSUs. The Corsair RM series might handle this well enough
  5. Would really rather not find out the hard way, partly due to cable routing, and mostly due to the fact I'll be assembling this between Xmas and new year when I'm visiting for the holidays, and if it's not adequate it'll be hard to get a replacement in time before I leave the area. As for ram speed, thanks for the heads up
  6. So I'm upgrading my brother's PC, and this is the first time I'm having to accommodate a 30-series or later, and the spikey power draw and overcurrent protection tripping has me concerned. I'd like to check a SeaSonic M12II 750W will be okay to use, as we'd like to avoid having to replace what should be an adequate PSU if not for this power consumption behaviour. The rebuild is currently as follows: AMD Ryzen 7 7700X Asus PRIME X670-P WIFI ATX G.Skill Trident Z 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Palit JetStream GeForce RTX 3070 LHR 8 GB pcpartpicker estimates the power draw as 454W, which while it seems a bit low I don't think it's as inaccurate as to exceed the PSU capacity. Will the SeaSonic M12II 750W okay for this given the power draw behaviour of these components?
  7. well It's an EK Quantum Magnitude RGB plexi topped, and part of the setup for that block is to take it apart (it's completely modular, you can change the jet plate, facia piece, even the coldplate; as well as rotate it for different in-out direction) I totally get what you said about dish soap/toothpaste as that was my concern too. So, fill it with distilled water, shake it about a bit, empty, repeat a few times. maybe do a gravity assisted flow through with eh two fittings i do have
  8. I posted this on Reddit too, and the folks that replied there seemed to suggest scrub with toothbrush and dish soap, then rinse with distilled. What do you guys say about that?
  9. I'm aware of that, I mean i watched the video of linus doing the on-die block and failing to keep the level right I'm talking about if it's okay to just drop the block in, or is there anything i need to do to prep the new block before i do it
  10. The degredation is some internal cracks, hence the replacement, not that it's dirty. If that were the case I'd be draining the loop, deep cleaning everything then putting Blitz part 2 around it. So this question wouldn't need to be asked if it were dirty.
  11. So I have a fully plumbed in and leak tested loop, and i need to swap a block within it due to my CPU block showing some degradation. If i were doing whole loop maintenance, I'd drain the loop, install the new block, put some Mayhems blitz part 2 around it for a while, then drain and add coolant. I'd like to avoid having to put cleaner around my entire loop, as it means my pc is out of commission for longer, and it also means i have to do a full drain instead of just making sure the block i want to swap out is empty. I have toyed with the idea of using a spare pump and rad (rad to act as fillport and res) to create a separate "cleaning loop" that i can use to put some Blitz part two through the tubing and block but then realized I didn't have the 6 spare fittings I'd need to do this, and they'd cost another £50 on top of what I've already spent, so I'm treating that as a last resort. So how can i prep the new block and accompanying new tubing so that it's ready to go into the loop without having to blitz the entire loop?
  12. So i'm becoming more convinced my monoblock is actually the issue here, as i realised my temps on my old 8700k weren't as great as they should have been either under this block. So i think my monoblock has been an issue from the get-go. yet it is out of warranty now and i've had the block open, so i either need to fix it, or deal with the loss and buy a generic cpu waterblock and just air cool my VRMs
  13. What would i need to do lapping properly? As i know what it's supposed to do, I just don't have the kit.
  14. That's my impression as well, and as my old chip was under the same block with the same issues. It makes me wonder if this block is hot trash.
  15. I'm in the UK, so that's unlikely. This is my monoblock, and i have just double checked the inlet-outlet config, and it's correct https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-m9h-monoblock-nickel
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