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I was playing a game last night and suddenly some space invaders-y artifacts showed up on screen and then a blue screen. Unfortunately, I did not record what the blue screen error code was. Now, my computer will get to bios and will display with either the integrated graphics or discrete graphics but will never get past bios. It will say "attempting repair" or get to the windows advanced startup page but it seems like anything after that is always a black screen. Sometimes it seems to also reject USB devices (keyboard and mouse lose power) but not always. A similar thing happened a couple weeks ago. I was playing a game, paused and turned the screen off for maybe 30 minutes, and turned it back on to a blank screen. This has happened occasionally before but turning the computer off and on again is all that I need to get it going again. These last two times, turning it off and on has not worked. The first time, I reinstalled windows and it seemed like everything was going fine so I figured there was a bad driver or something. Now that a similar crash happened again, I am worried that there is a hardware issue, particularly because of the artifacts I saw pre-blue screen. There were many complaints of similar artifacting with similar graphics cards back when the 2080 Ti launched but I'm not sure if it's likely that mine would have a RAM failure then go back to playing games after an OS reinstall, especially after having no issues since launch. Edit: I should note that I do not know if there was an artifacting thing the first time since whatever failure there was occurred while the screen was off. I suspect it is the same issue just because both happened while a game was running and then had similar booting issues. This time, I have tried resetting the bios but not much else because I have no idea what to try other than reinstalling windows and waiting again. Also, the advanced startup features seem to fail every time so I'm not sure what else there is to try. System: OS: Windows 10 Pro 64 bit, whatever the most recent version is. CPU: i9-9900KS Motherboard: Z390 Aorus Master on BIOS Version F8 (after resetting, not sure about before) GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 Ultra RAM: 32 GB DDR4 Corsair LPX PSU: Corsair HX850i Storage: currently a 500GB 970 Evo (nvme) has all OS things. Unplugged an 860 Evo (sata) and some Seagate HDD but that did not change anything Any suggestions?

More "The Workshop" videos, don't even care what the tests are. A JayzTwoCents video reminded me of Luke getting really annoyed at nothing making any difference. They were some of my favorites.

Thanks for the explanation! I’m still running into some stability issues but at least have a better idea of what is going on now

I just tried 1.35V with a "medium" llc setting at it blue screened as soon as I started a stress test (within a second). Is there any problem with going with a higher setting?

Sorry, not sure what you mean. It's been a while since I have worried about this stuff since I dialed in my previous cpu (3570k) 6+ years ago

Was editing my post when I got your reply because I left this out, oops. I tried setting a lower fixed voltage but the system crashes almost immediately with a blue screen or just does not boot.

Hello, I just got a new 9900k and am testing it out of course but something seems odd. In the settings guide that Gigabyte has (my motherboard is the Z390 Aorus Master), they say that the voltage to get an all core 5 GHz should be 1.35V or lower for most chips but when set to auto voltage, mine is drawing 1.4 or more at steady state (spiked to 1.464 during a stress test) to maintain the frequency with MCE on. If I manually set the voltage lower, the system crashes almost immediately. Did I just lose the lottery or something?

Showing its age might not be exactly the right phrase. 90% of the time, it’s perfect. I’m just doing some more intensive stuff recently so it’s a combination of being old and not particularly powerful to begin with.

I’ve seen the comment about the 2019 keyboard being on the repair list from day 1 not being a good sign a few times now. However, even as an Apple fan (everything but my desktop) I would not have even considered this one if it wasn’t included in the repair program from the start. Would obviously be better to just not fail but the 4 years of free repair is something at least. Still wish I could stick with my 2013 Air for a few more years but it’s showing its age.

Would sure like to see something that says that given that my experience is the opposite

Why do you think performance is not affected?

It will at 4k with most games. With the previous 2080 Ti (returned) the only game where cpu got above about 50% usage was AC: Origins performance is noticeably worse than it was at x16 3.0

EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3 Asus P8 Z77-V LX motherboard i5 3570k Using the top x16 slot on the motherboard with no other pcie slots in use It is the latest gpuz Not sure about mobo bios. It worked with a different 2080 Ti that I had to return if that adds any info. Unfortunately had to leave for a bit and won’t be able to check the bios version until later.

I just installed a new graphics card and am having an issue where it thinks it only has x16 1.1 bandwidth instead of x16 3.0 (even under heavy load, not an idle power saving thing) This happened on my previous card but only when I found that I hadn’t fully pushed it into the slot. Reinstalling it fixed the issue that time. That does not appear to be the issue this time after unplugging and plugging back in a few times, making sure it’s all the way in each time. I checked that nothing is physically interfering with the slot/connector (like a sticker) and it’s fine there. What are some troubleshooting steps to try next? I’m assuming it is graphics card, motherboard, or user error and have not ruled out any of those.

It looks like it was a separate issue with either my initial installation or a different fan being weird or something else unrelated. Runs nearly silent now, though temps aren’t amazing (probably related to running on silent mode on mobo) but also not terrible.

A few reasons that you may or may not consider good. First, not sure how much better fans would’ve helped me. The intake where the radiator fits seems rather constrained. I think it probably would’ve been better to try that out but oh well. The price difference between this and a couple silentwings was only like $25 so not losing out a ton. Second, this cooler was said to be quieter than my aio was. That probably goes back to the fans. Third, my radiator was dumping heat onto my already hot gpu. Thought this could help that out. Last, kinda just felt like it. There’s a nonzero chance I’ll switch back to the aio at some point.

Reinstalled. Seems okay now, lower noise than the graphics card fans at least on the desktop.

Yes. Checked that first (have done that before) I’m reinstalling it now

I’m willing to try again but as a last resort because it’s a pain. I followed all the instructions and the fan is really loud even at low 30s

I have an older board. Z77 with a 3570k. Don’t have a pump connecter. It’s definitely connected to CPU_FAN

I did in bios, is there a way to do it in windows?

I just installed a Noctua NH-D15s to replace my H100i 240mm aio, hoping it would be quieter. My pc is now much louder, despite running one fewer fan and supposedly a better fan at that. This was supposed to be one of the quietest coolers available. How can I get it to that instead of the loudest fan I’ve ever had?

It does, at least according to the specs, reviews, and personal experience. LG B7 review on rtings I thought about SLI but would much rather stick with 1 card to avoid having to deal with game support That's the exact mindset I've been in for a while but have mostly gotten out of. If it gets replaced, it'll get replaced. As long as my card does what I want it to do, the idea of a better card coming along does not really bother me. As such, I am just concerned with whether the current offering is enough Edit: a while meaning it is part of the reason I did not pick up a 1080 Ti already (and mining)

I am currently running an i5-3570k and a GTX980 on my tv that supports 1080p/120Hz or 4k/60Hz. Right now, I pretty much stick to 1080p and have no problems with setting everything to the highest settings (except AA usually) and play at 60 or 120 depending on whether it is a fast-paced game or more visual (read: harder to run). On some newer games, I'll have to turn something down a level to maintain 60 fps but it's generally fine (admittedly, I have not been playing many particularly new games recently so I could be a bit off there). I tend to play AAA open-world/RPG games with the exception of Rocket League, though I do not think that one will be the deciding factor in any way. I am looking for a card that can basically do the same at 4k/60, where I can just set to the highest presets (or very minimal tweaks) and play. This is my main concern rather than performance per dollar as cost is not an issue for me at the moment. Essentially, my performance per dollar calculation is a step function where I am not upgrading to something that cannot do 4k/60 because in that case I may very well end up setting it to 1080p High which is where I'm at now. After that point, I would prefer cheaper so as to not waste too much money but again, that step is the focus. Once I do upgrade, it'll probably stay with me for like 4 years again. It looks like the 2080 Ti is probably going to be the card for me since all reviews show it above that 60 fps level when the 2080 and 1080 Ti are sometimes a bit above and sometimes well below. I am not aware of any games where the 2080 Ti was enough below that turning down one thing wouldn't put it back above. I should also note that I would certainly try ray tracing (at 1080p I know...) but I am really most excited for DLSS on these new cards. Even if neither of those end up gaining widespread support, I think I'd be okay. Finally, I'll almost certainly be getting a 9th gen CPU once they come out and won't go past 1080p/120 or 4k/60 due to the tv specs so I am not too worried about bottlenecks on the CPU side of things. Thoughts?

I have been using the LG 43UD79-B (the 43" one that Linus reviewed) because I have room for a monitor or TV but not both and it seemed like a good compromise. Unfortunately, it had a power delivery issue and I am being given store credit at Fry's because they could not repair it or something. Anyway, I noticed that my usage was TV > games > pc work > movies because I end up doing most work outside of my apartment on my laptop. This leads me to think that I might be better off getting a TV instead of getting UD again. Fry's currently has the LG B7A on sale (probably because new models are coming out?) and rtings says it is their favorite OLED right now. I like the picture quality and 1080p 120Hz. I do not play games that require super low input lag, but I do notice it playing Rocket League on some TVs. Fortunately it is rated as having decent input lag. The problem is, I do not know if burn in could be an issue. Despite doing most of my work on my laptop, I still would have chrome open a fair amount and MATLAB sometimes. Should I not even bother considering OLEDs? I really do not want to get a screen that I can easily damage. One thing to note is that I would likely get some sort of protection plan that could help. I know they are rarely worth it but I have had some crap luck (two broken monitors that were not my fault, multiple phones that were) so I have actually come out (kind of) ahead. If it is a bad idea, any suggestions? I was hoping for the BFGDs but given the prices I saw for the 144Hz g-sync monitors, I doubt that they will be in my price range.