Thermosman

Some of these have already been said but I will reiterate regardless You can easily flame polish acrylic to give it a clear finish Any fins are better than no fins, you could get a 1/16, 1/32, to cut slots which would be beneficial regardless of how many fins you can fit Alternatively you could use an engraving tool with a steep tip angle which could cut grooves, increasing the surface area significantly and hence increasing heat transfer Always face off any mating surfaces between parts to ensure that they are flat and go together correctly to avoid leaks While you didn't have leaking problems, you may want to add more crush distance to the o-ring by making the groove not as deep to avoid leaking Some have mentioned using a slitting saw to cut grooves, however this would be challenging on a router because you would have to mount your part sideways, and with such thin slitting saws you would need to ensure that they are very concentric to prevent breakage If you modify a heatsink with micro fins already machined as others have already suggested, I would also suggest to use a sander in the direction of the fins, as trying to machine them would likely cause major damage When tapping, use a center, such as that that would go in a drill press, with constant downward pressure to keep it straight. I was not able to determine if you were using a taper or a bottoming tap, but either would cause issues, as the taper tap would not form the full thread in the bottom of the hole, resulting in you not being able to fit the fitting in. Using a bottoming tap would also not be ideal as it would be very hard to center if you have not already started the thread. The proper way to do this would to use a taper tap, but ensure that you have the full thread form through the entire hole, not only until the tip is flush with the bottom of the part. Chamfering your holes quickly, even with a hand drill would make it much easier to get the tap to go in straight even if you don't have a live center Other materials than copper such as aluminum have similar thermal conductivity to copper and are much easier to fabricate, as mentioned above, This would make it much easier to machine grooves If using any type of grooves, design with the criteria in mind to maximize flow directly through and over the grooves to optimize the use of the surface area, such as restricting the vertical area above the fins Minimize restrictions to flow through channels, and ensure that the copper is thick enough that it will not bend. Especially with this design, the center that was much thinner was likely not flat leading to worse temperatures. If you have problems you could face the bottom of the waterblock after assembly to ensure that it will be almost flat regardless of bending in the material, just leave extra thickness on the bottom. O-ring grooves and o-rings in general can be a pain, especially when your design isn't a simple as a small circle. Other solutions include various epoxy or silicone sealants that will do the same. In some cases it may be easier to put the o-ring groove in the acrylic block. Always test your waterblock with pressure while not over hardware first.

I was messing around with my phone and I set the minimum width in the developer options to a really high number, making my phone a pain to use. Somehow I accidentally shut off developer mode in the process, and now when I try to re-enable it setting crashes and it is not enabled. Now my phone is stuck in this super zoomed out view, does anybody know another way of enabling developer mode or fixing the minimum width manually? Edit - Nevermind, I managed to fix it by turning up the UI and font scale which allowed me to enable it without crashing and change the minimum width back.

Also, you were using your router very wrong. While I cant see it very well due to 360p, It looks like you have severe chip welding in the aluminum, and I would advise aganist using double sided tape for workholding. Instead, I would drill holes and use screws to attach the part to the scrap board. When you are cutting a complete piece out, you can either put screws in it to hold it down once it is completely detached, or utilize tabs around the perimeter, a setting available in many CAM programs such as Fusion 360, which can be removed using a saw or angle grinder and filed down to remove the part. Also, remove the plastic protective sheet from the aluminum. Again, I can't tell much about the endmill from the video, but it looks like a ~1/2 inch 2 flute titanium nitride coated high speed steel endmill, which you are getting major chip welding from both on the endmill and on the edge of the slotting. Instead of this, i would go with a 1/4 inch or even an 1/8 inch carbide 1 or 2 flute endmill. To figure your your RPM and feedrate, commonly referred to as "feeds and speeds" there are many calculators online. You should reduce your depth of cut and take multiple passes, as slotting, the operation used here, is the hardest you can push any endmill, and you are going full depth in what appears to be 1/8th inch aluminum sheet. Rather than doing this, you should take several shallow passes which will take longer but will produce a much better cut than full depth slotting, which simply doesn't work in aluminum. The chip welding is caused by heat from friction between the tool and the material, as aluminum is a relatively gummy material. While a flood coolant system isn't practical in this case, an attached airblast system, ideally with an oil mister would greatly improve this. There is much more information that you can find online about aluminum cutting on routers, there is absolutely no reason to just guess at it.

Since when was that a thing? I've heard of people unlisting their videos before publishing, but this caused them to get many less views. This has never been a problem on other videos afaik. Additionally, it def wasn't uploaded at 360p, so some type of processing has already occurred.

Isn't this the second video stuck at 360p that they have had?

Will there be a part 2? If not, did you manage to get it back together and/or working?

I lost one of the earbuds for my Bluetooth earbuds, does anybody know where I can buy more? They go to a Taotronics BH025 Bluetooth earbuds set but I can't find any replacements online, however there may be some of other or generic brands I am aware of their answer on Amazon however I did not buy them there so I don't think they would send me them. Thanks for any help

Mines stuck at this and I don't know how to fix it.

when I click start folding in the web client nothing happens - no gpu/cpu load, no work project etc

I did some folding a while ago but i dont remember where to sign in and i cant find a place either. Anybody know?

Yeah, it is a good cause and I do agree that this is a good way to motivate people to at least try it and learn about it

Thing about this is that the people who already have all the fancy hardware to do folding are the people who least need a new graphics card

That must be an interesting job! I think that fanuc or kukas robots could kinda fit the theme of the channel, imagine a video name: A robotic arm that can lift a CAR?!?!? They should just go visit Fanuc's showroom, that would be a video in itself

I think that that would be great, industrial automation is really interesting. Especially if you could get tours of manufacturing plants- like show people how their motherboards are made using pick and place machines, or cases are made (like how gamers nexus went to Lian Li's facility) or chip fab places, although companies are typically resistant to letting people film in their factories, robotic arms, cnc machining and more. However this may be a bit of a disconnect from your audience

-reballing is a difficult process that to do properly requires expensive equipment and still doesn't always work - see linus's louis rossman video -I don't think reballing would solve anything -you most definitely could not change the x and one chips, they are completely different