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ImpulseRez

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  1. So, they put it in film maker mode to be 'most accurate', then changes the setting on the LG AWAY from 'warm 2'?? It definitely has the closest temperature to D65 from what many reviewers have tested (and what I've tested myself). What's the point in messing up the settings then complaining of one looking more or less green...
  2. As others have said, not going to happen for that budget. And why multiple drives? Just get one 1TB SSD (it will be cheaper!). Also, if it's just for storing stuff like documents, videos, photos, it sounds like you really don't need the speed of an SSD. Just get a cheap replacement HDD..
  3. Yeah, never usually tell you whether that's at 4:4:4 or 4:2:0 or what... technically it's sneaky I think, but generally people won't notice/care which I guess is why they can get away with it..
  4. I don't know (I can't find it online.. probably is in your manual somewhere), I'm just guessing because it's still rare in 2018 TVs. And as shown in the HDMI 2.0 spec table I linked previously, you can do HDR 4K 60Hz 12 bit, but at reduced chroma levels (something most consumers don't care about... and honestly it's not super noticeable for most applications, especially for a TV)
  5. Yeah pretty much, and pretty much any HDMI cable nowadays will work fine with HDMI 2.0. Just get one that says 'HDMI High Speed', no need to spend $100! (My last HDMI cable cost ~$5 and works perfectly with my HDMI 2.0 TV). The regular old HDMI cables were limited to 10gbps.. so as I said, just get one marketed as 'high speed'. Spend $10 if you want the peace of mind. And it's a combination of your GPU and your TV not being capable (but this goes for most TVs). TVs are normally designed for TV/Movies, which would be 24fps 4K 10bit in most cases for UHD bluray for example (and movies also don't need 4:4:4 generally, as it's usually only noticeable on tiny text), so there's not much of a demand for making them run at 4:4:4 4K 60fps 10bit. Some TVs are capable nowadays, but most are not. Basically, don't worry about it
  6. Ah yes, my bad. I mean 4:2:0. That's the highest supported at 10bit 4K 60fps on HDMI 2.0 (nothing to do with the cable, all to do with the standard. Any ~$10 cable will support the required bandwidth). See the table in this link for what your choices are: https://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_2_0/hdmi_2_0_faq.aspx#146 Your TV is also HDMI 2.0 I think, so that's why displayport adapters wouldn't work also. I'd still recommend going to 4:2:0 subsampling to maintain the other goodness if you aren't prepared to drop any of the other things. I still bet you won't notice...
  7. HDMI 2.0 is a standard. Cables are not 'HDMI 2.0' or 'HDMI 1.4' or whatever. Just get an Amazon basics HDMI cable or whatever. A converter won't work... so don't bother. Just reduce the chroma subsampling (drop to 4:2:2) and you can still get 10bit 4K 60fps. I bet you won't tell the difference if you're not very close to the screen.
  8. HDMI 2.0 can't do 4K 60fps 4:4:4 at 10 bit colour depth. This article here might help clarify why: http://community.cedia.net/blogs/david-meyer/2017/06/22/4k-60-444-hdr Return the cable while you still can ($100 for an HDMI cable is absolutely absurd), get a perfectly fine <$10 one (e.g. Amazon Basics, monoprice), and make the choice for your TV of what you want to sacrifice (chroma subsampling? 10 bit? etc). I'd recommend dropping down to 4:2:2 from 4:4:4 as you're unlikely to be able to see the difference at TV viewing distance.
  9. If there isn't any 'smart' upscaling (like checkerboarding) going on, then they'll be the same. The difference usually is that you sit further away from a TV, so PS4 1440p on a 4K TV will look better than 1440p on a 4K PC monitor (if you're sitting closer to it). But, if they're both outputting to a TV, they're basically the same.
  10. You don't need a separate subwoofer. See the little speaker in the Edifiers? They'll handle the higher frequencies. See the big speaker? They'll handle the lower frequencies. Don't pay the 'gamer tax'
  11. It's still going to take up more space than a NAS for the same amount of hard drives. Not to mention that finding a Mini-ITX case with e.g. 4 hard drives can be difficult.
  12. Space can also be a consideration. a QNAP or Synology NAS is generally only a big larger than the hard drives you put in it, as all the rest of the components are designed with the end goal of a NAS in mind. There isn't a motherboard with extra expansion slots you don't need taking up space for example. In general, a prebuilt NAS is good because it's purpose designed to be a NAS. You trade flexibility for being very good at what it needs to do (i.e, be a NAS) without any superfluous functionality. It will be small, quiet, and power efficient relative to a regular PC. I would say that most people want their NAS to be mostly out of sight and out of mind.
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