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TRITIUMNITR0X

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Everything posted by TRITIUMNITR0X

  1. TRITIUMNITR0X
    I have an update! The XMP profile finally worked. After trying different settings / clearing CMOS over and over, it seems that flashing the BIOS opened a new avenue to allow the system to XMP more recent memory. In addition to the memory, I was also able to overclock the CPU to 5.0GHz and overclock both 1080Ti's in SLI, achieving a +25 FPS gain in Heaven Benchmark after all things were said and done. As an addendum, I should note that both before and after the BIOS flash, I was completely unable to manually overclock the memory, even with the recommended speed, timings and voltage given by the XMP profile. I suppose the XMP profiles contain much more intricate settings than previously assumed. I'd definitely consider this a success. Thanks @Super panda @aDoomGuy @Arika S for the help!
  2. TRITIUMNITR0X
    I'll try this out right away!
  3. TRITIUMNITR0X
    As true as this is, I'm hard pressed to just leave a full 1.067 GHz on the table.
  4. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Hey all, I seem to be out of luck with any attempt with an XMP overclock and I'd like to talk about a solution. The Problem For any attempted XMP overclock, my PC will sustain power (including all lighting, fans (default to full RPM), and the water pump) but it will not POST. It will hang with a black screen. Attempts to reboot warm will give the same result, while cold reboot achieves POST with the option for F1 Setup to BIOS. Please also note: A stable non-XMP CPU overclock past 5.0 GHz can be achieved. Specs Motherboard: Asus Prime Z270-AR CPU: i7-7700K (stock settings for XMP testing, Voltage at AUTO, stock Multiplier) RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 4x8GB 3200 MHz Previous XMP Attempts CPU: - I've kept the CPU at stock settings for the XMP profile. RAM (with stock timings ) : - 3200MHz / @3.502 Volts - 3200MHz / @Auto Voltage - 3000MHz / @3.502 Volts - 3000MHz / @Auto Voltage Please let me know what you think! If you have a solution, questions, or suggestions, fire away! I will provide more information upon request (I wasn't sure what else is needed). Thanks as always!
  5. TRITIUMNITR0X
    @NumLock21 Here's a screenshot of all the information you'll probably need.The cards are both under Furmark's GPU Stress Test. The cards are in SLI. As well, they are not overclocked, but the thermal limit is maxed. The card you're looking at is running in 4x Native, and the other card which isn't shown is running at 8x Native.
  6. TRITIUMNITR0X
    @NumLock21, thanks for providing a potential solution! When I have a minute, I'll check GPU-Z for expanded information and I'll be sure to tag you. And to all who have responded, thanks for helping me out thus far.
  7. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Hey all, Either I'm having a complete brain fart about compatability, or some unknown settings are forcing my GPU's to lock at 8x and 4x Native PCIE speeds. If someone can shed some light on why the GPU PCIE speeds are set so low, and how I may be able to remedy that, I'd be really grateful. My own assumption is that the chipset is limited and my board is just crammed with hardware.. So much so that the lanes have been maxed out. Thanks! Motherboard: Asus Z270-AR CPU: Intel i7-7700K M.2_1 (x4 capable): Samsung 970 Evo Plus (running @2x speed) Sata Port 1: Unoccupied Sata Ports 2-8: Occupied PCIEx16_1 Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080Ti ( set @4x Native) PCIEx16_2 Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080Ti (set @8x Native)
  8. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Hey all, I'm curious about what sort of performance degradation is seen when using USB 2.0, USB 3.0, USB-C strips (such as what's shown in the picture below), when plugged into a single USB port. What should I look out for, avoid, or look for in such a strip? I own an Asus Z270-AR which carries a multitude of USB 3.0 rear IO ports, and one front panel USB 3.0 header. I'm running into the first world problem, however, of running out of available ports to plug in some streaming equipment when I purchase them (such as a GoXLR Mixer). My biggest concern is keeping up with the high data demands of my Logitech G502 Lightspeed, my Razer Black Widow, my Steelseries Arctis Pro Wireless, and my Logitech C922 Webcam. I have the aforementioned peripherals plugged into separate USB 3.0 ports to keep those things performing properly. Any thoughts on the matter will help! Thanks as always!
  9. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Thanks for the information and data! Asus Z270-AR definitely does have individual fan curves per each header. I had actually overlooked that function and forgot about it completely. I'll go about rerouting the cables to the appropriate fan headers, and manage the fan curves; And I'll let you know about the temperature changes.
  10. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Hey all, A bit of a description is needed before my question: My Tower 900 contains an i7-7700k and 2 x 1080Ti's, cooled via a custom loop in series. There is a single 560 mm quad radiator cooling both the GPU's and the CPU. 4 x 140 mm Corsair ML Pro fans attach via pull config (exhaust) to this radiator, 2 x 140 mm fans are attached (intake) to the back of the case, and 2 x 120 mm fans are attached (intake) to the side of the case opposite the radiator. This layout was designed for near(ish)-neutral pressure. 4 fans intake air, 4 fans exhaust air. In order to maintain this semi-equal pressure, the RPM's of all of the fans need to be the same, so the fans are all connected through a hub into the CPU_Fan header on the motherboard, and the fans are set to PWM. Obviously, when I fire up any demanding game, people in my house one floor below think they hear a jet engine taking off in my room. I've grown used to the noise, but my friends over voice calls rarely enjoy the sound of the Foxbat firing up right next to my head. So now, my question: Is it worth the noisiness to connect, to the CPU_Fan header, all of the fans (radiator fans and case fans) which deal with passing the air through the radiator? Or should I instead only connect the fans which are attached to the radiator? Thanks!
  11. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Possibly; The outlet is nearly 30 years old, so that wouldn't surprise me haha
  12. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Hey thanks for the reply. I might be misinterpreting your suggestion.. We do have a dedicated outdoor power outlet already, but it only has 2 ports and it's a distance away from the patio. It's the outlet we're trying to modify to have it power everything.
  13. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Hey all, My family has just finished redesigning our outdoor patio, and we have been formulating a plan for outdoor movie/game nights, where we plan to project the screen against the wall of our house. However, the number of appliances needed for this project will run us into a problem. And that problem is: How can we power it all with just a single outdoor outlet? All in all, we'll be requiring a few specific things in the surge protector: Suitability for outdoor use and can be left outdoors if accidentally forgotten about. That means rain or snow will have to be taken into account. Ability to power consoles, projectors, or computer towers/laptops. Sometimes multiple simultaneously. That means, it needs enough female connectors that are spaced far enough apart for power bricks. Does not mount directly to the wall outlet, as it won't fit since the wall outlet has a heavy metal weather protector lid. Surge protector should instead plug into an outlet via extension cable. If listing off specific items is out of the question, I'd be grateful if someone could point me in the right direction. What brands are reputable? What kind of electrical jargon should I know when searching? As usual, thanks in advance!
  14. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Hey all, My recent purchase was an incredibly expensive and worth-while one. The G703GI-XS71 is a one hell of a laptop, and due to that, its 8 cell Lithium-Ion drains extremely quickly, even when tasking it with light processes. So here poses my question: Is it mandatory for users to charge the battery with both of the charging ports occupied, or is it safe for the user charge the battery with a single charging port occupied? I have tested the single-port method. It works, but I worry about it ruining the battery life or causing some sort of chemical imbalance within the battery. Thanks!
  15. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Ah yeah that one actually caught my eye yesterday. The issue here is that while the laptop is designed as a 17.3", that's just the screen size. My laptop has huge bezels and a large 1" deep rear vent behind the hinges. So in reality, this backpack is about an 1.5 inches to skinny. Thanks for the suggestion, though! It's a really nice bag.
  16. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Hey all, Im currently looking into streaming. Do you personally have a preferred streaming webcam? And if you've had any bad experiences with a webcam, please let me know.
  17. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Hey all, Ive happened to run myself into a predicament here. My new laptop, an ASUS G703GI-XS71 (has a 17" x 13" chassis), does not fit properly in my current school backpack. My backpack also doesn't have padding or any other built-in damage prevention for laptops. The only backpacks that I've found to be acceptable are those which are found in the ASUS website, but those are quite branded and flashy. My laptop is flashy enough- I don't need to be a walking billboard for ROG. If you have any backpack suggestions, please toss them out there! I'll even consider messenger bags if backpacks truly aren't a feasible option. Thanks!
  18. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Going to LTX? Post the PC or laptop that you're bringing to the LAN party!
  19. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Hey all, The i7-7700K is one helluva CPU. These are my current results: This is a Prime95 stress test for about 20 minutes. Please pay no attention to the pedestrian RAM speeds. My XMP'd 3000 Mhz RAM defaulted to stock speeds after I swapped them to different DIMM slots, so that'll be fixed in the mean time. I'd like to know if my rig can withstand the CPU running at higher speeds than 4.7Ghz, which is where it is right now. I'd also like to know if I would need to push higher voltages to do so. System specs are in my profile. Thanks!
  20. TRITIUMNITR0X
    My specs before delving into explanations: - i7-7700k @4.7 - 2 x (SLI) GTX 1080Ti, O.C. -2 x 8Gb RAM @ 3,000 MHz I have a PG27UQ, and it is an absolute freaking beast. The monitor has the capability of reaching 4K at 144Hz -- but obtaining that number with a lone 1080Ti with beautiful graphics is nearly impossible. A good benefit of owning a 4K monitor such as the PG27UQ is having the ability to downgrade my resolution to 2K if the frame rate is too low... And then 1080p is also an option if the frame rate is again still too low. In the end, wiggle room without a ceiling cap is the best way to manage your settings to obtain your preferred frame rate... but I promise you that it's very tough to obtain 144 fps as you go upwards in resolution. About the sudden frame drops and unstable FPS... there's little to determine the cause. If you're playing a game and it happens, it most likely is happening to everyone else. A lot of those sudden frame drops occur due to poor game/driver optimization. Some game fix problems by allowing users to cap frames. Borderlands is a good example of such games. This method of regulating max frames definitely helps mitigate problems that occur when too many objects are loaded in that might otherwise kick your frames right in the balls. It makes sudden fps drops feel less steep.
  21. TRITIUMNITR0X
    It's not completely inaccurate when front intake is important. Since airflow is his specific interest, a front panel is necessary to take into account. A few of the cases you've listed have front covers blocking half, if not all, of the direct intake; and air currents having to bend just to get into the case is not idea in this situation. Also, I understand the confusion. I wasn't actually stating that airflow solely determine price point - it would be completely idiotic to think that, as there's a ton of factors that companies will take into account. At least we both agree that it's necessary for us to know what his specifications are before a case can actually be determined.
  22. TRITIUMNITR0X
    If you have an income, I suggest you save the $90 and build on it. A list of better all-metal case options with fantastic airflow become more abundant when you have more to spend. What companies tend to do is increase price based on functionality- which means that the more airflow, the higher the price. When you have a second, can you please supply your Motherboard's size, the CPU/GPU cooling methods (AIO W.C. /or Custom W.C.), the number/types of drives, and front IO requirements? I can help you easier with that information.
  23. TRITIUMNITR0X
    True... my current build is exactly that. But for curiosity sake, I'm interested to find out what would be different in the hypothetical loop.
  24. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Hey all! Out of curiosity, I want your opinions about the functionality of the following loop: Follow up questions: 1) Comparing it to the usual split loop or single loop, what would the cooling performance difference look like? 2) Would the pumps actually function properly or would one side become unstable? As usual, thanks in advance!
  25. TRITIUMNITR0X
    Hey all! I need some help looking for a proper ISP bundle. My place of living is in a specific New York area where the only ISP's which provide gigabit Ethernet are Verizon and Optimum. We are currently under subscription with Optimum for $180/mo for 60/60 internet, Cable TV and Phone. We know that our deal is horribly overpriced; However, in order to upgrade to higher speeds through Optimum, we'll need to acquire Arris.-- And the reports are that Arris really sucks, so we're avoiding it. At the moment, my dad and I are researching Verizon's internet/TV/phone services. There's a bundle deal from Verizon which purportedly ends on 7/25/18 that states the following: My three questions for the gurus are as follows: 1) What do the numbers ("940/880 Mbps") mean, Mason? 2) Will I be slammed with huge add-on costs? 2) Which routers would be best suitable for this deal? Your help is always greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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