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JTLSound

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  1. JTLSound
    I would suggest something reference or close to reference, only because you threw Louis in the mix. Sony's MDR7506 are a good budget option if you're looking for closed back. I have a pair of AKG's Q701 that I really dig, but they do let some ambient sound through. Since I use them for live mixing as well as general listening, they're pretty much perfect for me.
  2. JTLSound
    Bluetooth 4.1 will "kill the audio quality" of any earbuds that have it pretty equally. The only upgrade path for Bluetooth audio from there is Bluetooth 5, and there really aren't any of those out yet. Anker is set to release a pair of Bluetooth 5 earbuds later this month for that prices, but they're separated earbuds. If the family member will be switching back and forth from wired to wireless, the Shures are a good buy. If not, anything >$150 with 8 hr battery life on this list would do: http://www.techradar.com/news/audio/the-best-wireless-earbuds-available-today-1327335.
  3. JTLSound
    Don't know if it helps any, but that's the "Backup" part, not the "Sync" part. When you backup system folders with Backup and Sync it does not sync backups across devices. It only backs them up in the cloud. You can download a backup from the Drive website. The only things that will actively sync across devices are files and folders inside of the Google Drive Folder. That's just the way it's designed. You could have some fun symlinking things. I haven't done the research, but I'm pretty sure it would work.
  4. JTLSound
    My guess is that the amp is just old. Audio technology has come a long way since 1995. The motherboard is just built better. Any amp made within the last decade should be (maybe not one by Behringer though....)
  5. JTLSound
    You'd lose a lot of voltage with this set-up. In general, you want your output impedance to be much lower than your headphone impedance (1/8th of it, in fact). So be on the lookout for a headphone amp that has around 30-35 ohms output impedance. There a great, long, and very technical article about this here: https://nwavguy.blogspot.com/2011/02/headphone-amp-impedance.html
  6. JTLSound
    ARM and AMD have both released a statement: https://developer.arm.com/support/security-update https://www.amd.com/en/corporate/speculative-execution I just thought the wording of Intel's statement was funny. Why call them out like that? ARM and AMD don't mention each other or Intel. Honestly? Build better chips. I mean this flaw goes back to 1995.
  7. JTLSound
    Presonus has a great lineup of this kind of gear as well. The Audiobox USB is pretty widely used in the audio production world.
  8. JTLSound
    Side note, the graphic for the Spectre is absolutely adorable
  9. JTLSound
    Power amplifiers don't typically amplify the sound that comes out of their phones jack. It's there to monitor your input before you send it out to the speakers. The headphone output is at line level, so it isn't driven at all by the coils inside. That output is actually 220 Ohm, after looking at the manual for a NAD 302 (https://www.manualslib.com/manual/363734/Nad-302.html?page=5#manual) As others have suggested, you should look into a dedicated headphone amp.
  10. JTLSound
    Intel issued a statement on the chip flaw. Also read: It's not just us! Spread the bad PR across our rivals too! Also read: Just keep updating and everything will be fine. We promise. Just keep buying our products and everything will be fine. Pay no mind to the Spectre behind the curtain.... It's all pretty unacceptable really. Full statement: https://newsroom.intel.com/news/intel-responds-to-security-research-findings/
  11. JTLSound
    Last ditch efforts today included pulling all connections from motherboard and power supply, leaving just PSU, CPU, and one RAM stick installed, with motherboard, CPU, and three fans on the power. Pulled the battery and wall socket for 10 minutes, and nothing. Swapped the RAM to another module, it boot-looped once, then stayed on, no post, no display.
  12. JTLSound
    Didn't have a jumper, so I pulled the battery and power from the wall for about a minute. Still no POST from iGPU, one RAM stick in slot 2. Should I try putting my GPU back in? Also, I've unplugged all my storage drives from the motherboard, but they're still getting power. Would pulling their power make a difference? I swapped the RAM sticks I had and now it wakes up the keyboard, but still no display.
  13. JTLSound
    I do not.
  14. JTLSound
    Yeah, that was my next step. This is the first real hardware issue I've ever had.
  15. JTLSound
    I woke up this morning to no display on my PC. I was working last night just fine. When I boot, the fans spin, lights come on, but there's no display; the monitor doesn't wake up. My keyboard and mouse backlights don't come on either. The first thing I tried was pulling the GPU and network card, and connected the monitor to the iGPU. Same deal. I then removed the RAM, which caused a boot loop. I tried one stick, and it booted and my keyboard backlight came on, but no display, no POST. I tried the other stick alone, and no backlight, no display, no POST. I didn't have time to do anything else before I had to head to work. I don't have any extra gear, so I can't trade out things to test. Any ideas as to what else I can do to test this? Here's my rig: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HQxZ3F Thanks in advance for any help.
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