Judd

Sorry, I was being an idiot when I typed that. The wire is actually a grounding wire and it is 1/2 inches in diameter, or roughly 1.25cm. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for the added clarification, that is making more sense now. Unfortunately, I have been told that I can actually make no contact whatsoever with the wire, that it can only be measured using an open loop clamp sensor. I apologize for the waste of time, but I did learn a lot, Thanks.

Does this diagram look lie what you were describing? If it does, then is the following math correct? I = V / R I = 0.00025V / 0.00422Ohms I = 0.0592Amps So there is 60mA going through the secondary wire, but what about the current going through the main wire?

Thanks, I will look into it. Like you mentioned, this device cannot be clamped over the wire. However, I will see if I can make it work with it being a closed loop instead of open loop, sorry I should have mentioned that. Are you saying that all I would need is to take a wire and solder the two ends to the main wire a few centimeters apart, then measure the voltage drop across it? Is this what you are saying? Or am I missing the point entirely? I'm not experienced with opamp amplifiers but I am willing to try. Unfortunately cutting the wire is not possible. Also, one thing that you made me think of was using a wire similar to what you mentioned, soldering a smaller wire to the main wire. Could I use a normal current sensor such as the INA219, and by using a formula I could calculate the current flow through both? I would think that this would be possible as long as I know the resistance and the voltage going through the wire. Any ideas?

I forgot to mention that the current is DC, not AC. This has also been a problem I have found.

I am trying to build a sensor that will interface with an Arduino that can measure the current going through a 1 inch wire non-intrusively. However, the real probelm is that the range that it needs to measure is between 1mA and 500mA, with an accuracy of about 1mA. I have done a little research on Hall Effect Sensors and measuring the magnetic field running through the wire, however it seems that the magnetic field is so weak, <0.0001 Tesla or < 0.005 Gauss, that it would be next to impossible. However, I have seen meters such as these, that can do what I need, but they are a little expensive and they cannot connect to an Arduino. I can not directly make contact with the wire, so it has to be non-intrusive. Does anyone have any ideas? I am willing to test multiple ideas if they have a chance of working. Thanks.

I am currently 3d printing a few parts and I have been running into an issue. The objects usueally print correctly, but on some occasions it turns out like the first picture. My printer is the Creality Ender 3 with a heated build plate. I am printing Sunlu PLA+ at 235c with the build plate at 60c. One thing to note is that the whole printer and filament spool is enclosed in a cardboard box for noise isolation and to maintain heat. The box reaches about 40c in about 20 minutes. I don't think that that is the problem because the probelm occurs after a 2 hours of printing. Print Settings: Software: Cura 4.2 Resolution: 0.15mm Infill: 50% , Cubic Outer Wall Speed: 30mm/s Inner Wall Speed: 45mm/s Infill Speed: 45mm/s Fan Speed: 75% A couple of things to mention. The print looks like the infill is perfectly fine, just the outer and inner walls are non-existent. Second, the error gets worse as the printer head moves around the circle, picture 2. Does anybody have any ideas on how to prevent this? Like I said, I have printed multiple parts before and they printed fine, but some occasionally screw up. The only setting that I change is usually infill %. Thanks in advance.

Another plus, for me at least, but the Galaxy Watch can store about 1.5gb of data on it, including music and photos, and you can listen to the music straight from the watch with no wifi or bluetooth connection. I know that my brother's gen 2 cannot do that, but the newest generation may be able to.

Like distance tracking, heart rate tracking? When I ride my bike with a few of my friends I track it on my watch and my phone. After a couple of hours they are usually within a mile of each other, and that is after 25+ miles so really not bad. Heart rate tracking is always in line with me feeling the pulse in my neck, it may vary by 3-5 but it is good as long as it is firmly attached to your wrist. I have tried my brother's Apple Watch gen 2 I believe, so I cannot really compare to new models, but the Galaxy was faster and more consistent when waking it up by gesture, and it also had a good heart rate tracker, but I don't know about distance. The biggest thing imo is what phone you already have. I already had a Galaxy Note 9 and they pair perfectly with each other. If I had an iPhone I would may have leaned toward an Apple Watch, but it would have been a close call. If you can, I would suggest going somewhere like a Best Buy and trying them on, seeing how you like the square vs the circle, along with the weight and the thickness. I may be wrong, but I believe the Apple watch is a little slimmer, but I have never felt like the Galaxy Watch was too big. Btw I got the 42mm version rather than the 46mm.

I have a Galaxy Watch and I love it. Couple of days of battery life, can connect to LTE if I want it to (you do have to open a separate line but LTE is optional), and the rotating bezel makes it super easy to use. It is water resistant, I have tested in a lake for about 30 minutes just swimming and it was fine. Pretty accurate heart rate monitor. It isn't a square, which can be a plus or minus depending on what you like.

So, long story short, I am building an RC car using an Arduino and I have been using an L298N dual H-Bridge motor controller that can handle 2 amps per channel, and I have been using 2 of these motors. On Amazon, the motors say that they are up to 24v, and 0.6 amps each. This led me to believe that the L298N driver would be perfectly fine, but when I got the motors and realized how powerful they were, I figured I would need to make sure. I hooked it up to a 20v power supply and let them run. No load they draw 0.15 amps each. When I stall them however, they pull 2 amps each. Keep in mind this is only at 20v, so I did a little calculating and at 24v it would pull roughly 2.5 amps, above the controller limit. So, now I am looking for more powerful controllers. I have found a couple on Amazon, first, second, third, and fourth. I would like to stay on Amazon because I have always received everything to order and in a reasonable time, but I could go to a different site if I need to. The only requirements I have are: 3 amp per channel, up to 24v, and the ability to receive a pwm signal and control the motor accordingly (the L298N drivers use 1 pwm and 2 digital per motor, the digital control the direction). I am planning on putting these heatsinks on the drivers, along with these fans blowing across the whole board as the Arduino will be mounted right behind it and there will be 2 intake and 2 exhaust fans for the rectangular case I am 3d printing. And yes I know that brushless motors are what I should be using, along with an ESC, but I don't have the money for that yet and I already had 1 motor and the L298N drivers. But I do plan on using some brushless motors in the future. If somebody could help me determine the best controller, that would be greatly appreciated. At the moment, I am leaning toward the first one for the (what appears to be) bigger mosfets and pads which I think would help with high current application. Also, I am thinking about the consequences of the motor producing energy and it returning back to the controller, say when the car goes down a hill the motors are spinning and sending electricity back. Will this be a problem? If so, how could I prevent it? Maybe by using the digital signals on the controller I can tell it to put it in a state similar to nuetral in a car? Also, if anybody is interested, I would be happy to share the code and the 3d files to print so that you could make your own, but it isn't done yet. I still have to get the controller, make a gearbox to increase the rpm from 1000 to 9000rpm, design and 3d print wheels, and design and 3d print the enclosure. Other than that though I'm done lol. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Ok, sorry about this but it appears after some testing that my 5v power supply was outputting 10v instead of 5v. So, after getting a new power supply and testing it, it now works. Thank you for the help and sorry for wasting your time. Have a good day.

When I connect the LCD to an external 3.3v power supply it appears dim, when connected to a 5v power supply all of the individual pixels are whited out. When connected to the Arduino and 3.3v it works perfectly fine. When connected to 5v it still appears whitewashed.

I have connected an LCD to my Particle Photon, and the letters that the Photon sends appear to be very dim. When connected to my Arduino, they are fine. I think it has to do with the fact that the Photon is 3.3v, so I put a 3.3v to 5v logic level converter on all the digital outputs, but it still appears dim. Whenever the LCD freaks out and displays random letters and question marks, the text is bright and easily readable. I can send pictures if that would help better. Thanks, for any help.

One final thing, I would wait until Zen 2 is announced from AMD. It supposedly will have about a 15% increase in IPC and 8% increase in core clocks, making it a valid option for gaming at the high refresh rate.

I agree. I'm using a 1600X and it works great.

You can also only get 2 fans since that case comes with 2 unless you want them all to match/

You want more than 250gb of storage if you want to play games. Get a 2tb HDD along with the SSD and install Windows on the SSD and games on the HDD. Other than that its fine.

If you are comfortable with messing with router settings, you can try setting up an upstream QoS configuration and prioritize cloud at a very low setting to ensure other devices get better connections. Also backing it up to a laptop or desktop through iTunes is my preferred way with Apple devices, since it's easier to retrieve, faster backups, and faster restores when actually using the backup. Hope this helps.

iPhones upload other things than just data to back it up. Every text message, especially videos and pictures go through WiFi on Apple phones if enabled in iMessage (great feature by the way). Also, your location is being uploaded as well as any requests your phone makes to connect to the internet, such as things as simple as searching up something in Safari. Go to settings and under WiFi data usage it should tell you what apps use what data, at least Android does that I know of on my Note 9. The classic "oh wait a minute, I may be wrong but I don't want to admit it" phrase. Most people here know that Apple does bad things but also I would hopefully think that they can see the innovations they have made. Such as iMessage. That's about the only thing I miss from Apple. They also have more powerful processors, but then they do throttle them after the battery degrades, so yeah. Apple has pros and cons, just like any other company. Personally, I love my Note 9 and will never switch back.

Leawo Blu-Ray player is what I have always used, works great for me. https://www.leawo.com/blu-ray-player/ I believe it can skip to the next file but not automatically. You have to press next. You can also skip sections easily.

No problem.

Try turning on V-Sync in Nvidia control panel, or in the game if you have AMD. Here is how to turn it on. Right click on the desktop then click on the Nvidia Control Panel. Then click here; Then scroll down to here; Then turn on V-Sync here; Click apply. A restart is needed most of the time. Hope it helps.

Great monitor for gaming. Is this setup for gaming because usually for gaming on 3 monitors they will all be the same monitor and go like this, 2:1:3, where the numbers represent the monitor while the : represents the border. If not then that setup is fine. IMO I would get 2 more 1920x 1080p 60hz monitors at a lower price point and put them all side by side. This way your gaming monitor is in the middle of the 3 instead of slightly off center. This way you could also game on all 3 at once, although you would be stuck at 60hz. Another option is getting 2 of the 29 inch monitors and placing them all side by side, with the 1920x1080p monitor in the middle. This requires a large desk but would make it easier to set up as no mount is needed and dragging items over would be easier. With a set up like this, 2 1:3 When dragging windows from 2 to 3 or vice-versa it would have to go through 1 then up/down to 2/3. One last bit, you would be surprised at the screen real-estate a simple 1920x1080 and a 29inch monitor provides. I'm using a 34inch ultrawide and it is amazing. Also, if you didn't know, but press ctrl + windows key + D and it creates a separate desktop you can use. You use ctrl + windows key + left/right arrow to switch between them. This makes it a lot less cramped. I usually have 5 open, 1 for my game, 2 for stream software, 3 for discord, 4 for Spotify, 5 for web browsing. But you can drag any program over to another, it's basically like having a sperate, hidden screen. I hope this helps you decide, you can always buy 1 or 2 and decide if you need the third or not. Good luck.

increase, however at a high cost, so probably 300$ vs 200$. Amazon and Newegg are the only retailers I use to get electronics as I trust them the most. I do not believe so because that trick works with an APU, so like the 2400G. The 1700X is not an APU which means it does not have graphics built in, which is what the trick relies on. Yes, especially with a 2070. I have a 1070 and use this monitor, https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-34UM68-P-ultrawide-monitor. The downside is it doesn't have G-Sync but it does have Freesync in case you get an AMD GPU. You may want this https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-XB241H-bmipr-1920x1080/dp/B01C05C1OK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540689147&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=1080p+144hz+gsync, because it is 144hz, perfect for gaming, and has G-Sync. It's your choice, if you want the best for gaming, the second one is best, for productivity and mild gaming, the first one is better. It's perfectly fine, I was once in your position just starting out with computers and thanks to the help of this forum I was able to build my first PC. Just trying to spread it forward.

Are you using DDR4 or DDR3? Because I just realized that the motherboard doesn't support DDR4 and that voltage is high for DDR4.