SpacePumpkin

In a shocking turn of events, as I was packing it away I reinserted the CPU and heard a crunch, it felt more stable in the socket than before. So I attempted power on again and it came to life, so I deconstructed the spare I was using this weekend, put its original parts back in and installed that the new cooler. It POSTs and has been online for the last 30 mins. Time will tell I suppose, I remember reading someone's story where the chip was only able to do like 5% of its original workload, I ran a passmark benchmark and got around 29k for the CPU alone (about 10% under the average). I'm gonna go make the most of the last of my stressful bank holiday weekend. It's been a rollercoaster. Thanks for the advice! I'm very paranoid when it comes to these things, would always rather cut my losses than risk breaking more stuff (although by the sounds of it, this was never a risk). In terms of the thermal paste used, I'm guessing it was either the stuff that came with the stock cooler or Noctua NT-H2. I would agree with replies on this thread that its probably a mix of attempting the swap cold (lesson learnt there) and that its been near enough 100% usage 24/7 for the past 3 years. It had been edging 90C in recent weeks and sometimes the fan needed help to spin and would prompt thermal shutoffs (hence the need to replace the cooler)

Hey, so I ripped my CPU (Ryzen 9 3900X) out of its socket the other day when trying to swap the cooler. I then spent two days trying to separate the two (it was like I used cement instead of thermal paste) and bend the pins back in place, eventually it came off after I heated the cooler up with a hair dryer and applied A LOT of twisty force. I've put the CPU through hell to get it off so I honestly don't expect it to have survived. After plugging it back in and giving it power, the lights on the motherboard turn on (Asrock SteelSeries X570) but the power button does absolutely nothing. Not even case fans spin. Behaviour is the same with and without the CPU installed. I'm wondering if this means the motherboard is dead as well? I have a spare system on the same platform but am not willing to try swapping parts because I need *something* for my job. Aside from this I am also cautious of damaging parts through association (or also ripping the CPU out of the donor system's socket too...). I'm compiling a list of parts for a new build and was thinking of just taking the plunge to upgrade everything, but a part of me wants to salvage what I can. I've seen similar posts in the past with mixed success (I'm surprised its anything higher than 0%). Is it a safe bet to assume that both CPU and mobo are dead? Thanks :)

So someone bought maidswipe.com after viewing this for sure

Thanks, I might just not most places I've found on the internet only talk about hooking the same unit up several times, but thats impossible with my planned setup. Safety is more important than getting above 80% brightness (my WS2812B strips are full RGB with a +5v, gnd and data wires)

Awesome thanks, next question. One of the three strips has the option of being powered at both ends, how could I do this safely? Would it be as easy as connecting the 2nd power supply +/- to the end of the strip (with it being powered by the 1st supply at the start of the strip)? Or do I have to cut the cable somewhere in the middle to prevent the + power from both supplies touching?

So 27A flowing through the strips is different to the amps actually pulled from the wall? I also forgot to mention that I'm in the UK, the strips are at 5v

Not really sure where to post this, off-topic seemed the best place but correct me if I'm wrong. Last year at my student accommodation, I decked my room out with 15 meters of LEDs following the edge of my room, I loved it, controlled by an arduino and my own android app, I could set custom patterns, make it respond to music but most importantly, mimic the sunset so to not upset my circadian rhythm. This was all powered by two separate power supplies at opposite sides of the room and the voltage drop was barely noticeable (when setting to full white bright the ends of the strips would be a mottled pink/yellow colour - I even set my own "full bright" at about 80% power with a bluey tinge just so it was uniform). I want to repeat it this year, with brand new strips (the old ones didn't make it through transit to the new place), however, my room is pretty much a converted bathroom with a tacked on extension and there are only 2 twin socket outlets on the SAME side of the room. I know very little when it comes to electricity but I do know that each socket is rated at a 13A max and I need at most 27A for 450 LEDs at full bright (I've made my peace with not being able to attain this, but its useful for calculations at least). What I don't know though (and the internet can't seem to agree on an answer) is if my 2 physical outlets will both give 13A or if ALL sockets in my room can only give a max of 13A. As well as this, how far away from the outlet can I provide power (through means of extension leads) without losing too much of these 13A? tl;dr Does a room of outlets only give a max of 13A or is this per socket? (where having two physical sockets would provide 26A). And How much of this power would be lost by trailing extension leads to the other side of the room (about 5 meters)? Thanks!

Thanks for your replies, I'm guessing that if it did try to draw more than the UPS rwas rated for, the PC would just shutdown as if there was a power cut, or would it keep power cycling?

So basically, the power here trips as often as once a week and its super annoying, but is only off for a few minutes at a time. I have a secondary PC that performs automated work and a main PC that I personally work on, needless to say its annoying to have both of them go, but more so the automated one. The automated PC has a 750W 80+ bronze PSU but the GPU is barely used and the CPU rarely goes above 50% so I doubt its real usage ever goes beyond 300W. My question is, can I buy a UPS rated lower than 750W (say 500W) and run the automated PC from it or is it a hard requirement that it must be able to provide at least 750W?

For anyone else with the same problem, the file has to renamed as RSB350FG.cap to be read properly. Stupid requirement and ASUS should have already named the file correctly inside the downloaded archive

Just tried two more different sticks, one formatted as FAT32 and the other as FAT. Same result. I've contacted Asus about it now. I appreciate your help

Yes, they're .cap files I'm trying

Thanks, makes sense what you said about the intermediate versions. I have anyway tried doing the USB method, it just says that it's "not a proper bios image". Trying 0401: Reading failed! 0803: *no error message, just does nothing* 0805: Selected file is not a proper BIOS!

My BIOS says its version 0223 (released 05/04/2017) but on the support website, this version doesn't exist and 0221 (presumably an older version) was released on 2017/05/05. From my research, although this version doesnt agree with the support website, googling "asus rog strix b350-f bios 0223" returns a few CPU-Z validations with other people running this exact version too. I'm using ASUS own AI Suite's EZ Update and it wont load any of the images saying "The model of the BIOS image doesn't match the BIOS ROM currently present". Have also tried within the BIOS itself and that reports all downloaded versions to be "invalid". I am certain that I am getting them for the right model as I'm using the link from my product activation (plus all info on the page agrees with my mobo model - just including this to avoid the "you must have downloaded a BIOS image for the wrong mobo). I've included a screenshot of my desktop too for proof (the auto-update option shows that the system is up-to-date completely) Anyone else had this or have any idea how to get round this? Thanks!

Actually ordered the Strix a few hours ago now. Whats so good about an IO cover? I kinda wanted that because the cover made the board look better, but then disregarded it because I'd prefer function over form, is there anything else that an IO cover offers other than looks?