Rexper

How would the mechanical relay "bypass" inrush current? I've always thought the relay was just to bypass the NTC thermistor once the caps have charged. This would be to increase efficiency, and to cool down the NTC thermistor so its ready for the next power cycle.

I think what's happening is your washing machine is drawing a big inrush current. This inrush current momentarily causes a drop in your AC voltage. It looks like your computer is on the same circuit as your washing machine. They should probably be on seperate switches. If your old PSU was shit then this brownout could've affected the PSU performance, which would've affected the lifespan of the GPU. An online/line interactive PSU W/ a good PSU, like your current setup, should be fine.

That's been tested on power supplies. A lot. Just read a PSU review or cybenetics report. Efficiency is a tad better on 240V, inrush current is at least double on 240V. You suggest using an alternator / charger -> 12V battery -> 12V to 240V inverter? Why not just an AC power source or transformer...

The UPS can keep your system on during some brownouts. It'd also give you time to shut down your computer safely. I'm guessing it wouldn't be much of an issue unless your power drops out often. Also, try avoid flicking off the PSU / disconnecting from mains. If you get a lot of brownouts then a UPS would be a good idea.

You are thinking about the hold up time. The hold up time affects how long the PSU can last with the input power switched off. The hold up time is kinda low in this PSU, but that's not what OP was asking about. The PWR OK signal is the power good signal. It's the signal the PSU outputs that says if it's power delivery is, well, good. What Ari's tested in the review is the 'PWR_OK inactive to DC loss delay'. Intel requires atleast 1ms, whereas Aris measured -0.2ms, to which he calls the PWR OK signal "fake". What does this mean? Imagine your computers running, and your AC power suddenly drops out. There is some power stored in your PSU caps (about 11ms worth), but eventually the PSU voltages will go out of spec and DC output will stop. The PWR OK should go inactive before the voltages go out of spec. If there is no DC output, would you say the power is good or bad? Obviously is bad, but as the review measured -0.2ms on that PSU it means the PSU is saying no DC output is good (for 0.2ms). For a fraction of a second, whatever is using the PSU sense wires (motherboard) thinks the power supply is feeding it good power when there actually isn't any power. In the end, your computer components could be damaged whenever your AC suddenly drops out. That is my understanding.

All the power the CPU consumes is converted to heat. So a CPU at 60W produces half the heat as a CPU at 120W. The 3700x does not use 65 watts. Under full load w/o PBO it uses 90W and thus produces 90W of heat. The 2700x uses 105W at full load. What you're missing is efficiency. A 100W (max) CPU may only draw 40W to get equal performance of a 65W CPU that's running at full load.

The RMx uses in-cable capacitors. They don't really help anything and just make cable managing harder. The RM doesn't have these.

I don't think Newegg sells any PSUs with the Euro plug. They're like $5 anyways.

Does Newegg even ship to Armenia? If you order from the US Newegg, it'll probably come with a US plug. If it doesn't ship with Euro plug then search around local shops for a "C13 cable". Corsair RM PSUs are great. 850W overkill for an RTX 3060 though.

The Asus ROG Strix has specified input voltage as 100V-240V. That will work in any country so long as you have the right power cord.

Here is a review showing the power transients of the RTX 3060 ti. It can peak up to 320w. Again, how does that add to near 550w. Good quality PSUs can handle those transients now anyways, without them triggering protections.

The RTX 3060 Ti consumes max 206w. The Ryzen 5 5600x with Pricision Boost Drive consumes 93W. The rest might use 50w. How could 550W be borderline?!

Ignore any software/bios PSU voltage reading. They are inaccurate. You'd have to use a multimeter if you want to know your PSU voltages.

Seeing it's already 4 years old, I recommend replacing it with a good quality PSU.

That Antec hasn't been properly tested from what I could find, but we do know what the internals look like. For example, https://www.techlegends.in/antec-vp500pc-review-a-worthy-budget-gaming-psu/ I'll do a brief analysis here: Has an MOV which is a nice (protects from input voltage spikes). Cheap bridge rectifier without a heatsink... Don't expect that to last long. Bulk cap is very small. I doubt hold up time meets Intel specs. Capacitors are pretty cheap too. Primary topology is double forward, and secondary uses group regulation. Probably poor electrical performance in modern systems. Don't know much about its protections. Overall it's a cheap and outdated design.