Tannah

That's most disappointing. If they are doing this purposely, they are leaving allot of business on the table for other to snap up. Back when I worked in as a tech in computer shops, the keyboards sales went like this: The first that sold out was your generic keyboards, as they were cheap, and they worked. The second were the keyboards that illuminated the legend on the keycaps, people who worked in low light environments loved these. They were a super easy sale. The third was a mishmash, Key pads and other random stuff, and keyboards that lite up like a Christmas tree around they keys. Where the lights were more for aesthetics, but really came off more looking cheap more than anything. They often ended up in the bargain bin, then what was left ether sat in the warehouse collecting dust, or being tossed into e-waste. /s/ If your keyboard is so bright than its overpowering your monitor, and blinding you. You must like a computers for the same reason people like lava lamps. /s/ In all seriousness, it sounds like your in a round about way telling me go just go get a gaming keyboard from Corsiar, Satek, or Razer, rather than get custom built keyboard.

Looked at the Keychron 108 key Keyboards, they do look like a good keyboards, unfortunately I keep my office dimly lite. So I need something that shines though the keycap and accurately displays the legend on the key. I am unable to tell if the Keychron V6 actually lights up the key Legend, or just lights up the outline of the key? Which is unusual to me as the other gaming keyboards show what they look like in the dark as a selling feature?

I've run into the dreaded inconstant key press problem on the G910, where when you hit some keys it will register between 0 and 4 key presses. The really weird thing is after I tear down the keyboard and clean it as best I can, a few days later the problem often often resolves it self for several weeks to several months. (It never resolves right after I clean it) I think its material or dust getting into the mechanical switch, unfortunately Logitech didn't make the Romer G mechanical keys easy to service, nor did they make them dust resistant. I am well outside the 1 year warranty for the G910. I quite like the G910 other than the mechanical switch problem. So I'm looking for a: Full sized mechanical keyboard that does not have clicky switches. Per Key RGB Layer Shine Through keycaps required. Must be able to see key legend clearly in the dark. Dedicated Media Controls Reasonable Quality Construction Wired USB n-key rollover (NKRO) I'd like to get a keyboard that has at-least 4 dedicated macro keys, but this is more a want than a need. I'd also like the software side of the keyboard to be decent, at-least as good as the current version of G Hub. I'm looking in the $150 to $200ish Canadian Dollar Range. Suggestions appreciated Thanks.

Question for the community: In Windows 10, which provides a better experience and the best performance? Doing a proper backup of the user data and settings, and doing a clean/fresh install of 21H2 (the latest current version) of windows 10? Or alternatively updateing from Windows 10 19H2 using Windows update, which will do a in-place upgrade to 21H2? Or do both methods turn out the same, with in margin or error? I do have my preconceived notions, but I understand I may be biased. I attempted to search for information on this online, but most data seems horribly out of date, or just waffles around the question. If you know of reputable websites that contain this information could you add them to your reply's? (mods if perchance I posted this in the wrong place could you move to the appropriate area in the forum? Thank You.)

Interesting article that show the dark side of TPM, and explains why Microsoft is trying to force it. Taken from article: "This article is an opinion held by a subset of members about the potential plan from Microsoft about their enforcement of a TPM to use Windows 11 and various features. This article will not go into great detail about all the good and bad of a TPM; there will be links at the end for you to continue your research, but it will go into the issues we see with enforcement." Windows 11: TPMs and Digital Sovereignty : https://secret.club/2021/06/28/windows11-tpms.html I would be curious about peoples thoughts after fully reading the article.

Well Asus did note they tinkered with the memory timings. If you happy enough with it then great! If not try going back to 1202, as this sounds like a memory timing issue introduced by the newer Bios's. I've seen people complain about it on overclock.net As your not running a 5000 series CPU, the BIOS above 1202 aren't essential for you. It should not hurt anything to try. Just make sure that each time you flash the bios you load Optimized Defaults, this is supposed to clear incompatible settings. If you don't the old setting and old memory training, can persist causing headaches.

Please read all before proceeding Ok, well now is the time to get back into the nitty gritty of testing. This may take some time to work though. I may go over a few things you know or have tried but its better I tell you them then assume. Ok the Abstract here, this is one of the things which can happen with upgrading you Bios especially if you had something that seemed flaky. As Asus noted in the bios upgrade notes they did change how the memory timing work. I am hoping you did not update to the the BETA Bios, as Asus notes that this can cause permanent damage to your motherboard, and Asus takes no responsibility. If you did mistakenly update to the BETA Bios your going to want to ASAP run Asus Flashback, and Flash to the latest NON-Beta Bios, or go to 1202 as I suggested. If you did not update to the Beta-Bios you can hold off on reflashing the Bios for the moment and proceed with testing. A few things you need to do: 1 Download and setup a memtest86 Free USB stick from this site: https://www.memtest86.com/download.htm to boot from ( we want to remove windows from testing for the moment as it can cause false positives) 2 Clear the Cmos using the "Clear CMOS Header" on your motherboard. Then get back into the Bios and load Optimized Defaults Set the memory to DOCP, Do not set any other overlclocking at this point, Set the motherboard to UEFI or what its normally set to for booting. (ideally this should always be using UEFI) If you need to find the Clear CMOS header Page 1-4 https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/TUF_GAMING_B550M-PLUS/E17265_TUF_GAMING_B550M-PLUS_UM_v2_WEB.pdf 3 If the memory errors persists, in Memtest86 Free pull out all the memory and put the suspected stick into DDR4 Dimm_A1 run the memtest86 free usb stick, If the stick clears with no errors, then remove it and run the Memtest86 Free test on each stick of ram individually. The next steps are going to depend on your results. and what you have done so far -If you did reflash the BIOS back to 1202 or the latest Non-Beta Bios And your NOT getting Memory errors anymore with DOCP enabled And the ram seems to be behaving again, then you may leave it and monitor the situation. Slowly add back in your overclocking settings. -If you Are still receiving Memory Errors, But Did not use Asus Flash Back to flash to Bios 1202 I recommend flashing back to 1202 as this will restore memory timings from before. Run the above memory tests again. if no more memory error pop up your probably fine. It the memory error persists, try to identify which stick is causing the problem. Now if you find the stick causing you problems you can try lowering the memory speed till the ram stick no longer causes issues. Then Look into RMA options with your Ram. I hope this helps

Quite possible. Its defiantly worth reaching out to Zotac, Even just to see what they say. Plus get it on record with them. Zotac apparently have a Standard Warranty: 2 of years. So and with the RTX 2070 coming out in 2018. I'd say it would be a good idea to contact them just in case. They would be the ones to know if this problem is indicative of a hardware failure. Plus If the problem is persisting past the additional steps will help convince them. Its also possible Zotac may have a firmware patch to resolve the issue so DatRay might be able to get around being without a operation computer. https://www.zotac.com/us/page/product-warranty-policy

I'm not sure about the Minecraft video, as I do not personally play Minecraft, it looks like a texture glitch in the game, If it wasn't pointed out I wouldn't think anything of it. The only other things I can really suggest is: -In setting type in Game Mode. Try turning off Game Mode. -Turn off the Xbox Game Bar. Both those have been noted to cause weird problems to blue screens, but It depends on the game your playing. -Under Display settings click on Graphics settings, try toggling on Hardware-accelerated GPU Scheduling. -Set: "Choose an app to set preference" to desktop app -Try playing games in full screen, rather than windowed. that may help. Otherwise try a few other games and see if you can see find graphical issues. Maybe try Valheim its quite popular right now, and not too expensive. It seems to have a good player base so it should be easy to compare to what other people are seeing to find glitches? After this we start getting into the, try a fresh reinstall of the latest windows 10, get a UPS territory.

One thing I would question here is: where did AMD say that All AM4 sockets would be backward compatible? All I can find is the Statement from AMD which confirm AM4 motherboards will be supported until 2020. The press has said other things, but I have not seen a statement from AMD saying anything different? If there is a statement fro AMD could someone link it please? This isn't all that different from what AMD did on the AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+.

I understand your concern, but diagnosing a odd problems like this you have to look at the entire computer. As its all connected and what might seem unrelated can have a serious impact. Ok now that I know what you have I can make some recommendations. Try each in order, I've tried to order them from easiest to hardest. 1-Update your AMD Chipset Drivers from AMD's site: https://www.amd.com/en/support/chipsets/amd-socket-am4/b550 2-Update and make sure your running the latest driver from nVidia's site, don't use the driver from Zotac's site. https://www.nvidia.com/Download/index.aspx?lang=en-us 3-Looking at: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards-Components/Motherboards/All-series/TUF-GAMING-B550M-PLUS/HelpDesk_BIOS/ There are indeed newer Bios's but I personally would not go beyond BIOS Version 1202, as with the newer AMD Agesa odd things have been happening. It's a bit of a mess right now, so I would stick to the last revision before they added the 5000 series CPU's compatibility as your running a 3000 series chip. They will sort it out just have to give them time. Also with Asus make sure you use the flashback function when upgrading the BIOS, just to avoid issues. 4-Another thing you can try, to rule out issues is move the Videocard to the second PCIE slot (if there is enough room), and see if your problem persists. Try those things and see if you have any difference.

Going to need a bit more to go with this. What Graphics Card are you using, whats your motherboard, whats your CPU, what wattage is your PSU, What and how much Ram are you using? If your videocard has multiple PCIE power connectors are you Daisy chaining one power connector, Or are you using 2 independent power connectors to power your GPU? Have you installed the latest windows 10 updates? See: https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/news/microsoft/microsoft-pushes-emergency-fix-for-windows-10-kb5001330-gaming-issues/ https://www.windowslatest.com/2021/04/24/microsoft-issues-emergency-windows-10-april-fix-for-performance-issues/ Have you installed the latest Stable Motherboard Bios? Are you Overclocking your Computer in anyway?

So I have learned that apparently on the Crosshair VII Hero Bios 4204 with the Matisse 3000 series, there is a CPU Overtempmax temp trip that is set too low. By 20c+ has been reported so far. This apparently this will cause a emergency shutdown. The only way to get around this (so far) is to set CPU Temp Monitoring to Ignore. Which seems like a bad idea.

Hello ShrimpBrime, Thank you for replying. The interesting thing is this Bios 4204 is suppose to fully support the Matisse on the Crosshair VII Hero, and it does have a couple fixes for the Crosshair VII Hero running Matisse CPU's. The one notable one for me is it fixed the random cpu spikes that caused the fans to rev, this was a known problem with 3103. There are a few other minor fixes too. I've noted them all while running 4204. So just because the mainstay of Bios 4204 support is for Vermeer, doesn't mean Matisse on the Crosshair VII Hero isn't getting any tweaks by ASUS. I'd hate to get a Vermeer 5900x CPU and find the same problems. So I'm looking for a bit more than "If it don't work don't use it"

If its still working and not bulged, leave it alone. If your worried you can get a voltage tester, and test the voltage its putting out. I think it should be 3.3v DC