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About faytleingod11

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  1. great idea. The Tyrfing only has a partial window, so it's not totally noticeable with the side panel on, but I figure a twist tie should work perfect for that. I'll also be routing the front panel io that's sticking out in that same picture. Thanks
  2. A few pics of the current config and my attempt at cable management
  3. I feel like that is something to be done right before delivery/ for the end user. I leave all peeling to the very last second.
  4. The pictures in the first post are just after the initial build, before I got the system working. I post pictures after I get home of the new config.
  5. So I set out to build a new pc to put up on craigslist. I had a bunch of spare parts laying around, from upgrades, family and friends repairs, and just plain good deals too good to pass up. I figured I had enough parts to warrant investing 300-400 dollars to make presentable. It all started with a warranty MSI Z370 board that didn't need to be warrantee'd. Turned out the persons processor was just not compatible, so lesson learned and a new part added to my inventory. Then I was able to get a steal on a 8gb of patriot viper kit of ram, and I had a psu laying around from a friends pc that we recycled because of fall damage. Then I got back a pc I sold to a family member when they had me upgrade them to a current platform, so I got a good cooler master cpu cooler, and a nice case. The thing that really made this whole project worthwile is when I bout a triple slot gpu for my itx build on accident (2.75 is NOT the same as 2 apparently). So now I have a decently high end build that I put some cosmetic attention to. The only problem is the mobo doesn't seem to work with the first PCIE slot, so the gpu is running at supposed 8x instead of x16, but all the benchmark scores are well above the expected scores. Should I warrantee the board again? Or just sell as is with a disclamer? I think this thing is awesome for the price I invested, and with the aesthetic adjustments I've added. Cable extentions, ram color, and noctua fans added to the cooler (taken from the asus ryujin aio) I was a little rambly, but I would really appreciate some feed back, and maybe a price range I should try and get. All functional parts are either new or warranty replacements excluding the psu, and the gpu that spent about 2 weeks inside another pc before being replaced by an rx 580 i bought on craigslist for 80 dollars. Mobo- MSI Z370 SLI Plus CPU- Intel i5 8600k (oc to 4.7ghz) Ram- Patriot Viper 16gb (2x(2x4gb ddr4 2400ghz)) GPU- EVGA RTX 2060 Black edition AIO- Cooler Master Hyper 212evo PSU- Antec 620w 80+ bronze non-modular SSD- Silicon 240gb HDD- WD Black 2tb 3.5" 7200rpm Case- Rosewill Tyrfing ATX +Random amazon ac600 wifi card, nzxt 140mm fan, ezdiy cable extentions
  6. I am trying to reformat my old gaming rig to give as a htpc for my in laws. The problem is, the built in reset function in windows 10 fails repeatedly. I am now looking to nuke the drive and reinstall windows. But every time I try to get into the bios, it looks only partially loaded. I'll attach a photo, but its just a blue bar with the model of the mobo, and tbe letters ab in the bottom right corner. Windows runs fine, and all the hardware still runs as it should. Any ideas on how to move forwards would be appreciated. Ive tried all the basic troubleshooting. Reset ram, reset processor, without graphics card, 1 ram stick, reset the little battery. I cant seem to get it to work. Msi h97-g43 mobo Intel i5 4570 8gb (2x4) Kingston ddr3 1600 Xfx R9 290 Evga 500w w1 psi Intel data m.2 240gb
  7. I've completed the airflow mod for my radiatior
  8. sorry, i should have specified. I posted this and then kind of forgot about it. I accidentally bought a 3 slot gpu and now I have to zip tie it to the side of the chassis. I used a bunch of rewards coupons so I'd lose out on almost 75 dollars. I'm gonna keep this card until I upgrade to a 2080, then put this 2060 into my buddy's rig. I appreciate the offer though. I'm using extensions until I get custom cables, which are at the bottom of my upgrade path.
  9. I seem to have made a major oversight in my part selection.
  10. This is the first mounting after I did stability testing. As you can see, with the asus aio, and 4 rgb fans, there is an overwhelming number of cables to manage.
  11. I am about 70 percent of the way through my Shift X build, to the point where I can use the system. I am also taking pictures later tongiht, but I wanted to do the typing portion now before I tear the system down to do cable management. So many cables. for now, I'm gonna post the pc part picker and then add the pictures when I'm on mobile, since all the pictures are on my phone. I have everything purchased except the wd hdd's, and the video card. I'm also gonna be getting cablemod cables, but I was hoping to get some feed back on how to route them. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VCwPWD I'm trying to stick with as few brands as possible, while being both over the top, and a good value. Feed back is appreciated, since I'm more than willing to replace most anything to fit the aesthetic and overall them. I have gone overboard on rgb, but I don't intend on going with the unicorn vomit look. I prefer the single color static look, and I like how corsair allows for the leds to match the temp of the system.
  12. If these end up not working out, I won't be surprised, but I'm gonna gamble on the aesthetics being worth it. I have corsair ml120 on the other side of the rad, so it's a bit of 'something better than nothing' going on. Thanks for the input though, I'll start looking out for sales.
  13. I'm using the phanteks shift x case, and I'm trying to make a pass through for my radiator, since my testing shows very little air flow as standard. I already have black noctua fans (they came with the asus ryujin) but they are way too thick to go between the frame and the panel
  14. Do you know much about these? https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Computer-Modulation-Supported-Thickness/dp/B00T9D680U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 I'm 2 of these, but if they don't work out, I'll shell out the extra money for the noctua https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A12x15-PWM-Premium-Quality-Quiet/dp/B071W6HJP6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1547503624&sr=1-3&keywords=noctua+120+slim I just really don't like the brown look, since they will be visible from the outside and all my other fans are ml120's from corsair
  15. ...do I need to cut into my case to exhaust a 120mm fan effectively? I'm asking minimum size. I know 4 1/2 is the actual size, but could I get away with 4 1/4? I just don't want to spend 40+ dollars on a hole saw when I can get a kit that goes to 4 1/4 for $20 locally. I want a good looking hole, so I am not going to use a dremel or similar hand tools. I'm just no good with them, the lines alway come out wavy or just not pretty. TLDR; Is a 4 1/4" hole big enough to pass air effectively for a 120mm case fan. Thank you.