SuperCloneRanger

According this PSU calculator(with 1 ssd, 1 hdd, 2 fans and gpu at 1740mhz) your max load should be around 474w, so as long as you don't overclock 600w should be fine.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/H1111Z-Add-On-Cards-M2-M-2-SATA-Adapter-M2-M-2-DIMM-DDR2-DDR4-DDR3/32933426628.html It converts sata M.2 to the the standard connectors on the top edge, it is not connected through the pins on the slot, It's just using the dimm slot as a holder. EDIT: Dam my slow typing, what @Zagna Said.

link?

also the wifi adapter could have a bad sleep/power saving function, if the above does not help try this. it creates a small program that will ping your router every second stopping the device from entering sleep/power saving. i know it says for power line but it works with all networking, just use the default gateway ip from wifi not ethernet.

i did find a manufacturer website but its Chinese https://wifi.360.cn/easy I have got a few things you could try though; restart PC scan for a new driver - go to device manager, right click wifi adapter, update device, restart PC. change power settings- 2OId9ZeAiK.mp4

Since you're at the weight limit and mounting the tv near the top i would use a couple steel plates to to spread the load. one between the top of the desk and the pole and one between the bottom of the desk and the screw clamp. then if it tries to lean to one side its pushing against metal rather than soft wood(assuming you desk is wood). Like these; https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-Standard-Washer-Plate/4136518

Yeah i edited my post when i saw the weight limit. What about this one with the 45" pole https://www.mountmymonitor.com/POS_Mount_with_3_Pole_Lengths_screens_up_to_26_lbs_p/at-sd-dp-series.htm

Like this? https://www.mountmymonitor.com/Monitor_Stands_Free_standing_Height_Adjustable_p/i-9231-40-104.htm EDIT: its not strong enough for a 43"

I would try GParted, it's a bootable partition manager. if the drive shows up in gparted give it a quick NTFS or ext2 format then try the mint install again. https://gparted.sourceforge.io/livecd.php If that doesn't work it time to start testing hardware like @Sauron suggested.

I think U.FL is what your looking for; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hirose_U.FL https://www.digikey.com/products/en/connectors-interconnects/coaxial-connectors-rf

there's still plenty of 'old school' cases out there, your just not looking hard enough. every case in this list has at least 2 external 5.25" bays; https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#G=2,12

Glad to here you getting somewhere with it. I do still think there's either a solution, or a hardware issue where both missing. the kernal was the reason it wasn't working in linux but whats stopping it in windows? after doing a bit of reading proper ryzen apu support(with hardware acceleration) came with 4.17. I would ditch 4.19 for something a little more mature, 4.17 or 4.18 should fix some of the problems your having. for my curiosity if you get the chance could you see if it works with a windows usb drive running the latest build https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 also welcome to the forum, i hope you stick around.

Yep, thats fine too.

Should be fine, there are no electrical connections along the edge of a motherboard

Its a weird one, the fact that it initially works until it tries to load an OS screams software problem. after the screen has been blank a couple of minutes does the power button instantly turn off the pc or does it take a minute, as if there is an os shutting down? This may sound a little condescending but so many people get it wrong. when resetting the cmos, the pc should be off and unplugged and the pins(marked JBAT1 near the battery on the tomahawk) should be shorted for at least 10 seconds. Lastly have you tried flashing an older version of the bios or are you just assuming it won't work because thats what the internet says?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074WH52BW/

I had a guy a few month back with a similar issue, it turned out to be a video setting issue. because its a new video output windows loads a default driver that uses a resolution and/or frame rate that is not supported by the monitor. i would try different displays to find one that's compatible, once in windows you can install the display driver and set a different resolution.

By this do you mean you get a video signal during initial boot, you can see the msi boot screen and bios but when you try to load a windows environment the screen goes blank?

Google doesn't come up with anything and it's not present on my windows 10 install. It's either part of a program you have installed or it's a virus/malware, since its self replicating i'd go with the latter. Have you tried ending the task in task manager then deleting it?

Since you weren't even pushing hard enough to get the connector to go in i doubt you pushed hard enough to damage anything. But there's only one way to now for sure, test it.

Should look like this when installed correctly, it can take a fair bit of pressure to get it to seat correctly. EDIT: never mind, you figured it out.

Socket PGA988A(G1) and socket PGA988B(G2) are different, you can not mix the 2. But there is a socket (PGA989) that is capable of taking both G1 and G2 CPU's, if your laptop is using that socket there is a chance it could work but only if the bios is set up to support it. https://www.pcworldbusiness.co.uk/catalogue/item/Sony+VAIO+E+Series+VPC-EH1S8E+-+15.5"+-+Core+i5+2410M+-+Windows+7+Home+Premium+64-bit+-+4+GB+RAM+-+500+GB+HDD/P143844P? there is a version of your laptop that uses a G2 i5-2410M which is from the same family as the 2520M but there is no guarantee that they use the same motherboard. i would take apart the laptop to see what socket it's using, if it's a PGA989(the number should be molded into the socket, see below) i would get the i5-2410M. It's still a good spec bump and because a version of the laptop came with it, there's a better chance of it working in yours.

honestly without testing one i couldn't say, the data sheet doesn't say anything. But if its on-on-on i would assume they use the same output. Its not an expensive switch, half the fun of diy is figuring stuff out. 3.5mm jacks already have L and R go to a common ground EDIT: And 3P means the switch will switch L,R & G at the same time.

I didn't even think about a rotary switch, that looks like a great option. Like @r4tch3t said, just add some jacks and a project box.

I put that together last year, it uses a 3 pole double throw switch. i've been looking around, i can't find a toggle switch that can switch 3 inputs but i think i found a slide switch that fits the bill https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CW-Industries/G-368S-0000?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtFyPk3yBMYYIgfgRf3xi8MHqLKn9mwn2c= or if you want toggles you could use 2 of the ones i used. input one and 2 goes into the first switch then the output and input 3 goes into the second