SuperCloneRanger

H97 is 4000 series intel, quad cores are i5 and up. a quick search shows the i5 4430 and i5 4440 where the cheapest quad cores that fit but the second hand market can be funny at times and the cheapest then may not be the cheapest now so its worth looking at all compatible cpus on ebay. that board also supports some xeons so i'd look at them too. here a list of compatible cpu's for your board. https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/H97-GUARD-PRO#support-cpu Wrong socket/series

I'm a big fan of the Linnmon from ikea. strong, adjustable feet and not too expensive. 120cm/47 1/4" X 60cm/23 5/8" https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S39932562/

No Yes, it can make a 1 to 1 copy of your c drive. If you only have 1 drive connected follow the first vid, if there is more than 1 follow vid 2. YchBah4BS8.mp4 djcc5G2SyD.mp4 Yes, like the backup above, cloning will create an exact copy of the original drive including windows and hidden files. here's a few vids showing the process. I just picked 2 random drives to show you what to do. i recommend only having 2 drives installed at a time to prevent accidents like formatting the wrong drive. It may ask you to restart the computer, this is fine. PfYcjsRILF.mp4 voAX1GTkRp.mp4 No, i do not recommend using the computer while cloning or backing up. find a time to do it when you do not need to use the computer Yes. as you can see in my example my destination is a fresh unformatted ssd. If you have any more questions or get stuck you know where to find me. Good Luck.

Looked at MSI's news portal and some websites reporting on the max line, couldn't find anything. This is probably something you are better off asking MSI directly about, contact info is linked below. make sure you use the support email for you part of the world. https://www.msi.com//about/contact-us

I did think about the super but at the moment there is a big price difference between the 2 in Australia and don't think the cost/performance worked out as well especially for 1080p gaming.

That phone has a removable battery. remove it and dry the inside the best you/he can, then leave it to sit for at least 48 hours with the battery out and the back removed.

Most(all?) modern linux distros can be run from a pen drive. are you looking for something very light for under powered hardware or something with more modern features?

What phone?

Yes. The software is not locked to a spcific drive, it is a full version of Acronis. You lost me a little, as long as at the end of everything each computer only has one boot drive and your not trying to run 2 computers on one windows licence you should be fine. Please make sure to back up your important data before starting. I know it can be a pain especially when there's a ton of files but please don't skip this step. I've installed the software, it looks very simple to use. once you have the software installed and have activated it with the licence from adata. you select clone disk, automatic, select the drive you wish to copy, then the destination, ok and finish. I've got the software now so if you get stuck or run into trouble come back here and i'll do what i can to help. Good Luck.

I'd go with the 2060, at 1080p it gets over 100fps at high settings on almost all games. there's little point going with a more expensive card for 1080p gaming. But if you plan on upgrading you monitor before you upgrade your graphics again i would aim a little higher.

What is your monitors resolution and frame rate?

This simply is not true, i migrated from a samsung sata ssd to an nvme ssd without issue using there migration tool not too long back. @orlando690 Your XPG(ADATA) SSD comes with a free copy of Acronis true image HD disk migration software. This should work fine for cloning you windows install and data. You can download it here: https://www.adata.com/en/ss/software-5/ You do have to jump through a few hoops to get the licence key though, here's a guide. If you run into any problems come back here and i'll do what i can to help.

instead of trying to make the new computer work with old media why not make the old computer work with new media. You can get flash adapters for most old computers.

Yeah i edited my post when i read the description on the adapter.

I saw that when i was searching around, unfortunately its read only.

I can find a 34 pin floppy to usb adapter, it says its for 1.44MB 3.5" floppy drives but i think the interface is the same for all drive sizes. And add an internal usb adapter to use inside your pc. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-44MB-3-5-floppy-drive-connector-34-PIN-34P-to-USB-cable-adapter-PCB-bo-Hg/113731697640?epid=9020180466&hash=item1a7aeffbe8:g:mUcAAOSwaMtcneZ- https://www.ebay.com/itm/9Pin-Motherboard-to-Double-Layer-Adapter-2-Ports-USB2-0-A-Female-Internal-Header/303158696605?epid=0&hash=item4695aa9a9d:g:bXcAAOSw6lpcf5Cn EDIT: Sorry, the description on the adapter says 1.44MB ONLY.

When booting from a usb drive you usually get 2 options 'usb drive name' and 'UEFI: usb drive name'. I've had driver issues when using the UEFI boot option in the past so i suggest(if you have not already) trying the non UEFI boot option.

ok, stick it to the bottom of the car rather than the wheels for a bigger surface area and if your back plate has holes in it push it into them a little so it has something to bite on to. if you don't move the computer around too much while the car is inside it should be fine.

I don't think blu tack will be enough. its not that sticky to begin with and it will soften as it warms up. i recommend a hot glue gun or sugru. sugru is is mouldable putty(like blu tack) that sets into a hard rubber that is quite strong but still easy to remove when needed. https://sugru.com/

I figured he was the perfect person to ask, can you thin of anyone more qualified?

I know, i know. i said it to make a very poor point. a good supply by a competent engineer should be fused though. redacted. have you got any insight on the sort of power a modern atx motherboard can take? I promise its not to win the silly internet fight. i did some looking around but theres not much to go on. i got the TDP's of the modern chipsets, a post about a video that supposedly showed a 40w difference between a low end and high end motherboard and numbers for some older stuff off anandtech. Thanks. https://www.anandtech.com/show/2624/debunking-power-supply-myths chipset info; https://www.anandtech.com/show/12625/amd-second-generation-ryzen-7-2700x-2700-ryzen-5-2600x-2600/6

Sorry OP. the thread was finished, but people love pointing out when they think you've got something wrong on the internet. If you run the outervision calculator without a cpu and select desktop it gives 110w and i would say that's right. you have to power the motherboard(the chipset, usb, audio, ethernet) I bet the VRM consumes a few watts + a little extra to account for all the things people forget about and to add some healthy margins. it only adds 35w for the cpu(the cpus TDP). Seams pretty accurate to me. and thats the one you singled out as bad. I'd wager most of the PSU manufacturers have done there own internal testing to set there calculators. Peak efficiency for most power supplies is around 40-60% load. You need to learn to read, i said likely and the probability. obviously there are no guarantees, but a companies track record should definitely be taken into account when deciding to buy from them. by your logic i should trust or not trust power supplies equally, whether it's from aero cool or seasonic? i bet, all other things being equal, you would choose the seasonic. i know i would. just as a company known for poor supplies should be avoided, a company usually known for high quality supplies should be held in higher regard even if they have had a couple of bad products. not that the s2ii is a bad product, 4.5 stars with 2000 reviews says otherwise. 105w cpu 200w gpu 100w mobo 30w mem, hdd, fans 435w total

This wu wu bs around power supplies has to stop, its not magic, is electrical engineering. PSU calculators are a good way to get a reasonable estimate of the power a pc will use. because they have to account for all situations, the estimate they give is based on the peak power of all the components combined. this is the correct way to do it, not only does it give you the power you require if you over tax or overclock your system it also puts you in the sweet spot of the efficiency curve. Although not a guarentee, a brands track record is a great way to determine if a new/unknown product is likely to be good. If a company has a history of making/using products of a reasonable quality the probability that the new/unknown product is also of a reasonable quality is high. Of course a power supplies ratted wattage means something. i hope this is simple enough for you to understand. udged? Thinking your know something because you can parrot what you read on the internet just makes you look simple and making sweeping statements about a complex topic shows how little you actually know. please see, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning–Kruger_effect This is why people are afraid to get into building. any power supply that conforms to the ATX standard and us/european electrical regulations will be fine, even under gross overload conditions.

I took a look at the options for itx, these cases stood out to me; https://www.raijintek.com/en/products_detail.php?ProductID=90 https://www.raijintek.com/en/products_detail.php?ProductID=89 https://www.nzxt.com/products/h200-matte-white http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Evolv-ITX-TemperedGlass.html

That guy was running a 1080ti, the 2070 is not as power hungry In win are a reasonably well regarded company and i'm sure the power supply they put in there case is fine if used correctly. but if you are worried about the psu i would suggest a different case, a good chunk of the cost of the a1 is for the psu. silverstone have some great mini itx options.