SuperCloneRanger

I believe it is from the same family as the 9210-8i so may have the same driver, there is no win 10 but the 8.1 driver should work. try to install it normally first if that does not work try installing it in compatibility mode. sorry bad link, heres the 8.1 driver https://docs.broadcom.com/docs/12354855

not sure if you would be interested in this but according to Steve over at gamers nexus there is no perceivable difference in performance between X8 and X16 when gaming.

This is an odd one, even if there is something wrong with the windows installation you should still get a video signal during initial boot before windows loads. Like kb5zue says i would reseat the graphics card, i would also clear cmos to reset motherboard settings, if motherboard is same as on your profile instructions can be found here. (p13 for jumper location) (p20 for instructions). http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-h170-hd3(ddr3)_e.pdf also make sure you are testing using a single display. if this does not help you should try to boot using your processors(i5 6500) integrated graphics. plug your monitor into the hdmi port on your motherboard, boot, if this gets you into windows install the latest driver for your graphics card. plug monitor back into graphics card and reboot. if none of this works you will have to start testing for faulty hardware.

Yes, from be quiets website; https://www.bequiet.com/en/case/697 Optional radiator installation Front (mm) 120 / 140 / 240 / 280 / 360 / 420 Top (mm) 120 / 140 / 180 / 240 / 280 / 360 / 420 Bottom (mm) 120 / 140 / 280 Rear (mm) 120 / 140

the AKG Y20U are wirecutters top pick budget headphones, not tried them personally but no one puts more time or effort into there reviews than wirecutter. https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-headphones-under-40/

As long as the pcie slot you use in future has one of those locks on the end (most do) you should be fine. Just file smooth the rough edge and make sure there is nothing shorted out on the motherboard. Edit: Also any chance we can get a look at the custom case when its finished?

Looking at your monitors manual it appears you also select the refresh rate on the monitor with the 'turbo button', make sure it is set to the same 120hz as the pc disable both free sync and v sync in amd control panel make sure you are using the correct refresh rate for your chosen resolution Supported operating mode from manual: 1280x960 60Hz 1280x1024 60Hz 1360x768 60Hz 1366x768 60Hz 1440x900 60Hz 1600x1200 60Hz 1680x1050 60Hz 1920x1080 60Hz 2560x1440 60Hz 2560x1440 85Hz 2560x1440 100Hz 2560x1440 120Hz 2560x1440 144Hz if none of that helps try a lower rerfresh rate, I know it's not ideal but i'm sure you can manage 60hz till you get your card back. if after all that your still having the same issue try a different monitor(a tv will do if you have nothing better). let me know how you get on.

since it is happening with multiple mice and ports it definitely points to a video/graphics issue. have you noticed any stuttering or pauses while gaming? also have you uninstalled all drives and software relating to the nvidia card? also what is your monitors model number theres a few under the rog swift brand name.

I agree with aisle9, as long as you use a bit of common sense when online defender is as much antivirus as most people need, it also unobtrusive and always up to date. And anyone that says you don't need antivirus is a complete and utter moron.

For $300 you could get a new 43" 1080 tv, then when you have saved up for the huge 4k one with all the bells and whistles it can be use as a bedroom tv or for a kids room etc.. if you get a huge old DLP when you get your new one your stuck with it. also i dont thing many DLP's supported HDMI or 1080p.

if you can, i'd also suggest testing the 1080 in the system you got the r9 out of. if the r9 works with your system but the 1080 also works in another, it may indicate a comparability issue. come back and let us know how you get on even if you fix it i'd like to know what the problem turned out to be.

also from what i understand safe mode uses a generic graphics driver not the nvidia one, you can check in device manager. in case you don't know how( i don't mean to sound condescending i just don't know your skill level); click on start type device manager, select it select 'display adapters' double click on your 1080 select the 'driver' tab if it is using the generic driver it will say microsoft under provider.

that's very odd the driver is definitely for your card, make sure your running 64bit windows 10 make sure you have uninstalled all previous drivers if not already, put graphics card in top slot make sure both pcie power is connected if power supply is modular make sure pcie power cables are connected to power supply correctly make sure display is connected to graphics card reset bios reinstall driver if after all this you are still having trouble, without access to another system to test the card, the only other thing i can think of is trying to reinstall windows again in case something was bad with your install. edit: just noticed you are new, welcome to the forum

Sounds like a bad driver, that why it work in the second slot till you logged in. as you booted with it in the second slot for the first time it would have been detected as a new device and windows would load it with the generic display adapter drivers, but as soon as you log in it searches your files for compatible drivers, it loads the same driver it was using in slot 1 and gives the same issue. its also why it works when you uninstall the drivers, without it windows uses the generic display adapter driver. you should try installing an earlier version of the driver, if you are using the latest (385.41) i would try; https://www.geforce.com/drivers/results/120905 (ver. 384.94) or if you are trying to load an older driver i would try the latest; https://www.geforce.com/drivers/results/123219 (ver. 385.41)

If you have the cash a mesh network looks like the way to go, wire cutter has a great article on the available options. http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wi-fi-mesh-networking-kits/ also for high traffic devices like desktops and tv's/media centres you should also look at powerline kits. http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-powerline-networking-kit/ and you can run many devices from a single powerline connection using a cheap ethernet switch.

its been years since i played about with it, i'll have to give it another look. thanks.

I thought blender was more about video animation and fx? kdenlive is free and open source https://kdenlive.org/ And i believe there is a free version of davinci resolve https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve/

i disagree with The Benjamins, If you have no interest in monitoring or manipulating the connections you should get an unmanaged switch, why add complexity and pay for features you do not intend to use. an unmanaged switch will treat all connection equal and will be plug and play out of the box. also if you do not intend to mount it inside a rack i would not bother with a rackmount switch, i recommend a desktop switch, the same amount of ports but takes up less space. i've used this one in the past without issues; http://uk.tp-link.com/products/details/cat-42_TL-SG1024D.html and its available on amazon for 80-90 euro

this is not nearly enough. i fixed computers for extra cash during collage, my rates where; £20 they bring the computer to you, this covers initial look and first hour of labour, that way if its an easy fix it has still been worth your time. £30 (local, add more if travelling further) you go to them, again this is call out and first hour of labour. + £10 for each additional hour of work and these rates i found where very competitive and way less than the big guys. just remember to be honest and don't charge extra for parts. even before facebook and without advertising i averaged 2 pc's a week. remember there's nothing wrong with expecting to get paid for good work. and for bad customers you should do everything in your power to make them happy, even one vocal unhappy customer can have a sizeable impact on a word of mouth business.

will download and install fine. but i've not tested the software, i don't have a compatible camera. but it does appear to be compatible with obs.

what? i just downloaded and installed it without issue.

digicamcontrol looks good, just connect your camera via usb, no capture card needed. http://digicamcontrol.com/

T case(the temp listed on ark) is not the same as the temp you read in software, it is the max temp reading at the heat spreader. when you measure your temp via bios or software it is reading it from a sensor very close to the cores of your cpu and because of this gives a higher reading. your i5 6500 will go 95+ deg before it will start to throttle, but i would not run my cpu that hot, below 80 is a good and 85 although not ideal is acceptable.

thermal compound from any reputable manufacturer will do the job there all so close these days it doesn't really matter, just make sure whatever you get it is not electrically conductive, this is especially true for graphics cards. arctic silver is always a good option.

whenever i want a price for something i do a completed listings search on ebay, it shows you how much other people got for the same item; go to your countries ebay at the right of search bar select 'advanced' enter name/model that you want a price for in keywords box tick 'completed listings' then search all prices shown in green are what the sellers got for the same item and gives a good indication of what you should ask/are likely to get.