Coldfuson

So I've got a multi monitor setup, 2 x 21" Asus IPS panels, and a Samsung 8 series. Randomly in the middle of use or just idling, all 3 of them will randomly say no source. I haven't been able to force the issue to arise with a short burn test courtesy of FurMark. Have any of you encountered this issue in the past? System Specs i7 4930k MSI GTX 970 Asus P9X79LE 16 GB of G.Skill DDR3 (4x4gb) Thermaltake 850 W Semi modular PSU Crucial 500Gb SSD

Dude... Youve been over this a thousand times... Please just calm down. You're just paranoid.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994147&cm_re=hot_swap_bay-_-17-994-147-_-Product The guys at Icy dock did you one better. They fit 6!

Can you really? It seems plausible, just never seen it or even thought about it that way. Hell mine is just duct taped to my face!

In the US there is only a 10$ difference between the 6700k and the 7700k. in most cases I would say upgrading is foolish, but if you're already spending that much, you might as well be on the bleeding edge! I don't know where you are shopping, but there are GTX1070's available in the US for wayyyy closer to $400. Also you need to add in what kind of gigabyte Z170. Also I would look into a cheaper air cooler. Not sure what they go for where you are, but they go for $35 here.

The lack of proof that they do exist is the proof that they in fact do not exist.

This is the basically the predecessor to painfully tacky RGB lighting

OOOOOOHhhh Killem!

Sorry I may have been wrong about specifics. I checked and it seems to cap out at 1 year. I don't even have an Amex.

Nevermind, I stand corrected. Didn't see his build in his signature.

I'm saying that backing up to a D or an E drive isn't as easy when you don't actually have a secondary internal storage device. Don't get me wrong, I've got a 1tb and 500gb HDD to backup from my 120 gb and 500gb SSD's but that doesn't seem to be the case in OP's situation.

but... but... but... tempered glass!

>implying that the OP has more than one storage device already in his computer

All he meant is that the MFG warranty covers defective parts and workmanship. Warranty not to be confused with a protection plan or insurance.

Apple care can be a little trickier. With my experience with the "geniuses", they're god awful human beings with NO idea what the hell makes a device work. They told my wife that her iPhone 5 had a fan in it, and that it was broken, and that's why it was overheating. When she called them on their bullshit, they insisted that there was a fan in the device. Aside from the terrible people at the apple store, they also have a deductible that makes it a pricey exchange even after paying a hefty premium. Most repairs can be done on a mac pro with an ifixit kit and the replacement part you need. Motherboards don't fail too often, so I would opt for not getting it. The only issue is if you think you are careless enough to break a $1000+ device.

Former best buy employee here. So the thing you want to check out is what type of protection plan it is. They have GSP-ADH (offered on most portable electronics including laptops) and GSP-R (Covers desktops and peripherals). You want to be careful that you are in fact getting the ADH (accidental damage from handling) if you do opt for the plan. And you do want to be careful. I wasn't around when smart watches were really huge(not that they're really huge now), so I didn't see any come in under protection plans. Best buy outlines in their protection plan perms that they have the right to try and fix the device up to 3 times before giving you a new product. In which case, you end up with the device out for service more than you've been able to use it. This is the express reason why I will not get an extended protection plan on laptops. HOWEVER. If you want to "upgrade" at the end of the warranty, you can do so by throwing your laptop down the stairs. Just make sure that you've done enough damage to make it not worth their time to repair. Though they do have a clause that states any falls from excessive heights, or crazy damage like being ran over by a car, will invalidate your protection plan. sidenote: if you have gotten bodily fluid on the device the protection plan is void. For the love of god, nobody is willing to touch your vomit to fix your device. With the ADH, you can sort of abuse the system. If the repair quote comes in at more than 60% of product value they will generally "Junk it out" And give you store credit for the original price of the item that you purchased. My greatest suggestion is when dealing with the geeksquad, to be as kind as possible. A lot of the decisions are left up to their managers and what kind of hit they are willing to take on their bottom line (against their bonuses), and having the geeksquad rep feel that you deserve to be treated with respect can be a great perk to have on your side. This also may not be a bad time to mention if you have are an elite plus member or what have you. This (however stupid it sounds) will impact how the manager feels about you.

Solid advice, American express doubles warranties, and some cards like my citi diamond prefered card will do price rewind on major tech purchases. So when I bought my lg G5 outright on that card, I submitted the receipt to then. For the next 6 months, they automatically reference approved retailers online, and if they find a price lower than what you paid, they will take the difference off of the card. It saved me roughly 150$ on my G5!

Yeah, that sounds about right for Horrible Freight.

Well first off, there is a troubleshooting section on the forum for these issues. I would suggest using that, as there are plenty of knwoledgeable people that lurk that and are probably more in the mood to offer advise. Second. Yes, for the most part. It could still hide in a place like your downloads and perhaps your app data, but it wouldn't have the registry entries to autostart on boot. So technically the software could still be on your computer, but wouldn't be running. I would suggest running something like MWB after the refresh.

I mean, most are set up where you'd have to really crank it on there to do any damage. I guess you could have bent a pin, but generally a messed up CPU means you're not even going to pass the POST

Annnnnd a quick XMP profile switch fixed that. Thanks fellas!

I'm pretty sure I made sure to get 1600... however this is 4 years ago since the build. Brb going to turn on XMP in the bios. I turned it off to see if that would fix the issue. I'm so stupid I should have known that DDR stands for Double Data Rate

Would this be due to the fact that its running in quad channel? I guess I should have mentioned that.

So browsing on these forums I've picked up a lot of new software to check up on my PC and have been trying to fine tune a stable overclock (spoiler alert: there isn't one for my 4930k, it appears I lost the silicon lottery, can't even hold 4.4Ghz at 1.4v and anything less would just be a waste of time) Anyway, to get to the heart of my question. I have 16Gb of G.skill Ripjaw DDR3 1600mhz memory on my Asus P9X79 LE motherboard along with a r9 380x, 2 solid state drives and 2 HDD's. All powered by my 850W thermaltake PSU (definitely overkill but I got a good break on it when I was working at BestBuy) When I open CPU-Z and go to the memory tab it says that my DRAM frequency is 666.6 MHz. I checked my bios and its set to run at its native 1666. Sort of just confused by the situation. Its not like it actually effects my gaming performance but certainly is a puzzle. From what I can tell this is the RAM I have in my computer http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231313&cm_re=gskill_ripjaw_ddr3-_-20-231-313-_-Product If not that, then something extremely similar. I appreciate any help, and advice I receive, just in hopes of bettering my PC knowledge.

I would suggest you check out lukes video on fan obstruction here. However flipping the PSU was definitely the right call