DarthSmartt

I've run the same oc for the past 5 years. Solid as a rock. Never had a hiccup. Just went back to windows 10 and there are no issues. Just heard microsoft is dropping windows 10 support in 2025 and stopping the sale of product keys by the end of the month. That's crazy how they're rendering so many good systems obsolete by forcing windows 11 on everyone. I guess im upgrading in the next year or two. But I think im gonna start the slow move over to linux. It just sucks there's no game or vr support.

My experience with windows 11 has been absolutely miserable with a number of unsolvable problems and inconveniences. This is just one of them. I reset my bios before installing and was setting up my overclocks again. First of all. With the same settings working just fine on windows 10 for years, now don't work at all with windows 11. It will immediately boot loop forever into startup repair... fail.... reboot.... startup repair. Until it brings me to the recovery menu. But here's the kicker. This menu is now USELESS! command prompt cant execute any useful commands and the advanced startup option is flat out MISSING. This essentially left me dead in the water. When I used my windows install flash drive to repair it, same thing happened. No Advanced Startup settings. Somehow, after restarting and mashing f11 while windows was trying to load, it actually booted. I don't know what that did, or why it worked, but here I am. Does anyone know how to get this option back? I mean if you have any corrupted files or startup issues you are essentially f*cked. I will note I am running a 6700k which may be resulting in my overclocking issue since it is unsupported, but everything else should work.

It ended up taking 30 minutes and was completely fine. I know how frustrating corrupted windows installs are after updating. That happens all the time with hard drives i've found.

I’ll recommend the netgear ones. They’ve always worked well for me. I will warn that network switches are very vulnerable to lightning strikes/power surges, so make sure you always have them plugged into a good surge protector as they like to burn out Ethernet ports on your pc as well.

I’ve used my pc everyday for the past week. It asked me to update and I let it restart and do updates. It usually only takes 3 minutes tops for any update, but now it’s been 20 minutes and I’m on 25%. It’s looking like it’s going to take over an hour. I haven’t seen anything like this since windows XP. I have a good pc with a samsung 970 pro nvme ssd and an 800-1000mb internet connection. Why is this update so insanely massive?

I’m still not even sure why I got a 1080. I could throw my 960 4gb in and still run most games just fine. It will still run Minecraft at 1000+ fps

Minecraft, CS, Valorant, Rocket league, Siege, and a ton of vr games. I’m also a reformed fortnite player. I honestly don’t think the ps5 and series x are adding to much to the table. They’re still so cheap compared to PCs. Do people really care that much about 4K and higher refresh rate when playing on their tv? (Do either of them even do high refresh rate?) You’d think the fact that consoles are able to run games at comparable quality to a pc at such a low price would drive pc parts manufacturers to make their prices lower.

I honestly don’t think I need anything for Christmas. I’ll just enjoy the holiday and give some gifts. Not really my issue. I just thought it was odd that I’m just not as pc interested as I used to be. Since I was 9 or 10 I always wanted something for my pc. This year is the only year I really don’t want anything lol. Again... Just rambling. Merry Christmas

Probably a dumb question but you never know... do you have ALL of the power pins occupied for the pcie power? check for corrosion/damage on the pcie connector too. Otherwise RMA it.

I’m only 15 years old. My parents asked me if I had anything in mind for Christmas. Every year I ask for something pc related. Last year was the quest, year before was a Gtx 1080. This year I really don’t know what to get. I’ll admit that I am very very spoiled, but anyway... Am I the only one that feels like hardware is evolving too fast for software and even my brain to catch up? My pc with a 6700k and a gtx 1080 at stock clocks can push games at well over 200fps at 1440p while streaming. And my monitor is only 100hz. I just feel like there is no need to upgrade because games aren’t getting harder to run. In fact, it’s quite the opposite almost, and I’m still doing just fine on my hardware. Maybe it’s because I don’t play any games competitively anymore. I see some of my friends upgrade their CPU’s and gpus but there really isn’t any point in spending $800 on a new gpu or cpu/motherboard combo. We are now 5 generations ahead in cpus and 2 in gpus with no real reason to upgrade. I think companies should focus on making products cheaper rather than more powerful. It might make pc an option for console gamers and reduce the gpu scalping that always happens. Anyway, just me rambling half asleep in my bed at midnight. Reply if you want to... or don’t. Whatever.

That is quite the study! It does make a lot of sense. That adhesive is thicccc.

Also just noticed that I have the flow direction wrong on my cpu block. That may be part of my issue but it is such a pain in the ass to fix that I am just going to leave it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. My cpu is bottom of the bin in terms of overclocking performance anyway so I really can't care that much.

I have a custom watercooling loop with a 360 and a 240mm rad. I am cooling my 6700k and my gtx 1080. The 1080 is at stock clock speeds and the 6700k is at 4.5 at 1.45v. With my pump running at a little over 50% and my fans at 100% my gpu stays at 52c but my cpu is jumping from 80-90c. This is while stress testing both the cpu and gpu at the same time. I know my thermal compound application is good and the waterblock is mounted solid. The only thing I can thing is that the thermal compound between the die and the heat-spreader is absolute shit. I knew it was bad but is it really this bad? I really don't want to delid.

I do think it uses display port. I wish someone made an adapter that could convert it to hdmi.

I have a lenovo y500 with the massive ultrabay slot that used to house the second graphics card. Since sli is completely useless now, I decided to make an egpu solution with the exp gdc. That involved getting an external display driver that I could shove into the ultrabay slot since the pcie bandwidth isnt enough to carry display information as well as the pcie information for the gpu. The problem i have is that I would still like to use this as a normal laptop when i need to. but it is very annoying having the extra hdmi hanging out the side and plugging into the laptops hdmi. I could get around this problem if there was a way to convert the laptop's internal display connection into hdmi or display port. Is there a way to convert the internal display connection to hdmi? I cant find any adapters online.

My high school is requiring me to get a Chromebook for school. They said something about having to register it so idk what that means. But chromebooks are very underwhelming and make the Windows user inside of me cringe. If I were to do a hard drive transplant with the chrome os into a normal windows pc, would it run? Or is it locked to the computer?

I am moving to a new home and we are completely redesigning our home network. My dad and I are internet hogs. We will have an access point in each our rooms. In opposite sides of the house that have our PCs connected via Ethernet and phones connected wirelessly. Those access points will be connected to a switch coming off of the main Velop router. The other two nodes will be connected together using Ethernet and one will be plugged into the main switch. can you still use a switch if you are hardwiring the child nodes together? And also how is the wired performance of this router? We will have gigabit service with 40 up over coax. How well does is perform while gaming in terms of latency and handling other traffic on the network at the same time?

Yes. but at what volume? The volume of both is controlled by the knob.

some thermal paste is electronically conductive. It could have killed it from some thermal paste getting in the socket. Rubbing alcohol is completely non conductive and evaporates quickly anyway. I dont believe that would have killed it. Is it possible that you accidentally bent some pins into each other?

nope! people embed them under desks in a cut out. My only concern would be the thickness of the charging coil. It would make a large lump under the mousepad. I could see it working if you had a thick mousepad and cut out a hole underneath for it. or cut a hole in your desk and put the mousepad over it.

I am using an oldish edirol ua-25 along with a Schiit magni 3+ to drive my 250ohm dt990 pros. The edirol has a great dac in but I have heard people say that you shouldn't turn the volume all the way up on devices like this as there will be a loss in quality from the internal amp. The Dac has a line out (rca) and a headphone jack. The line out seems to be slightly quieter than the headphone output. Both have volume control using the same knob. I am using the line out. should I set my volume at like 75% or all the way up?

I am having the exact same issue as you right now. I haven't been able to find anything. Let me know if those pads work out for you. I dont have particularly large ears. they just stick out and like to touch the driver. I love these headphones to death and have had them a little over a month. They are comfortable and dont hurt until about 3hrs in and then they hurt for the rest of the day even if i take a long break. I really like the stock velour pads but I just wish there was more room between my ear and the driver so it isnt crushed at the tip. I 3d modeled some spacers but I dont own a 3d printer and no online company will print them out because they're too wierd. Also could you post the link to the pads you are talking about?

I just came across this thread somehow. I know it’s 3 years old but there is some misinformation here. Your Hyperx cloud headphones aren’t crap compared to a studio headphone from Beyerdynamics, audio Technica, or sennheiser. Nor are they “surround” headphones. Surround is done either by hardware or software but has nothing to do the headphones themselves. Mainly because you have two ears and headphones have 2 drivers(with some exceptions). Windows sonic, Dolby atmos or hardware surround on dt990s will blow away every gaming headset on the market simply because they’re open back meaning the soundstage is much larger than on any hyper x headphone. Now don’t get me wrong audio is extremely subjective and hyper x makes great headphones, but in terms surround sound quality any pair of open back headphones is going to fare far better than hyper x’s I think you just got caught up in the 7.1 surround marketing garbage. They’re all stereo headphones with either hardware or software simulated surround. Also from experience. Hyper x cloud IIs sound like shit.

I went with the 3+. I know the heresy is slightly better but again. I myself am not going to notice any difference.

Thanks for the advise. I did a couple hours of research and decided to get a Schiit Magni 3 amp. I realized my mic mixer already had a pretty nice dac for headphones built in. And maybe I’ll get a modi 3 as well later. I’ve heard reviews about how the jds labs atom is better than the Magni 3 but I like the build quality and for me I can guarantee the quality is more than plenty.