rjbarker

Yes SLi 780tI's and CPU on the Loop.

Switch your top Rad arrangement and make it an Intake...ensure your top rear Fan exhausts, this is another reason why I prefer top Rad as intake...moves Air over your Mobo...even warm air is better than no air!! Top Rads as Intakes...sometimes you have to "think outside the box sheeple"

So your GPU is not OC'd ? What about your CPU...is it OC'd? and you have tried a clean install of latest Drivers?

^^^^ Fvck exactly...!!!!!! Would look way better than Acrylic (glass always does).....you'll have to post up pics for sure if you do it...!!!!

^^^^ Been reading a lot of good info re: PETG Tubing over at both Overclockers and it seems (from 90% of what I've read), its the new preferred over straight acrylic....intersting for sure.. Someone mentioned a positive of acylic was "it never has to be rplaced and lasts the lifetime of your PC)...got a kick out of it....I use maybe 4.5 ft of tubing in my build @ $2 / ft and replace with an annual service The lifetime of one of my Rigs, withiout going thur some change that is going to require new Loop is about 2 yrs/....maybe.... .....

^^^ Yeah thats what I look at as well!!!! Also, I've got a number of multi Rotary Fittings that certainly are "side loaded" slightly...you know pressure on the fitting in the horizontal plane...and no leaks..ever

Funny all the "Sheeple" that jump on this fellow for "thinking outside the box"......I say give it a try...why not?!

Another couple of tips: 1. When a component proves extremely difficult to get the Hose / Fitting on when its mounted (such as Rads), try to plan the building of the Loop so that you can pre-install fittings and lengths of "rough cut " tubing onto the component (Rad), then install the Rad leaving the ends of the tubes to be cut to length and fitted where they're easily accessible 2. Dont hesitate to use Adapters, angles or extensions (such as Male / Female Lengthen Adapters to Rads) to make the fittings more accessible. The more easily you can access Fittings, the less frustration you'll run into resulting a pretty decent Loop Above all "Have Fun" ....

The 360 Rad should be okay, just dont expect crazy low cool temps, but acceptable considering and better than air....can you add in a 120 or 140 Rad plus the 360 anywhere?

In my Loop I wound up going counter clockwise and shortest runs as possible. I would think it would be best to group your CPU and Mobo runs together. (very short connections likely)...I would hit them out of your pump...then to upper Rad...then to GPU and return. For cooling benfits order of componenets not a big deal as mentioned above, focus on shortest runs without crossing tubing....can you get all your Fittings the same? As in not mix n matching Barbs with Compression? It would also be beneficial (just looking at your pic) to get a few more angled adpaters or fittings, as in 2x45's etc ......If not due to cost no big deal.

^^^ Thanks for all that "history" Alpen.....Ithat has got be one of the most informative / interesting reads for me in numerous Forums in a long time.....thanks fr sharing for sure!!! Myself personally am quite new to WC'ing....built many high end AC'd PC's....but seeing as I always run either SLi or quite often Tri SLi I figured it was about time I quit "worrying" about my GPU Temps and migrte to a cooling method far more adpated to multi GPU and OC'd CPU's....glad I did! Being Canada, and trying to avoid the Customs /Duties fees when ordering from US Based Companies, I purchase most gear from Daz Mode (dazmode.com), Canadian based....funny he's German too Anyhow, he carries my Feser gear which I ytend to have gotten comfortable using. particulalry the tubing. Actually I have also place a couple of Orders with EKWB direct from Europe....again Duty / Customs Fees apply (no getting around it), but extremely fast DHL Shipping Europe to my door on Vancouver Island BC Canada...as in 5 busness day ....there is also a great WC'ing community on numerous Forums and everyone tends to be "happy and enthusiastic" to help novices such as myself.....the Rig in my Sig is my first Loop....although now having the bug, I've torn it down and re-built it twice in 2 months Sorry OP for getting off base

^^^Odd how a lot of the WC'ing good are German made...my Feser Tubing and liquid is "Made in Germany"...... I also like the looks of those Heatkiller GPU Blocks....

Noctua NF F Series Noiseblocker E Loops Corsair SP Quiet

Lays has the best advice!!! It should clear over tme on its own...what I do after filling: 1. Tilt PC on every extreme angle imagineable with pump running at mid to high speed. 2. Pinch tubes in various locations to briely "restrict" flow (when you release listen to the bubbles that ome thru) 3. Tap Rez witha rubber handles pair of pliers lightly (also clears micro bubbles) 4. a few times a days reduce speed of pump and increase speed of pump It can take up to a week or so to completely clear all trapped air, be patient, it should clear itself How are your temps? If there pretty good, dont sweat it, keep going thru the steps outline above. As for your Tube runs......guys he's got his CPU Block "unmounted" and hes WC'ing his Mobo !! (also crappy angled pic).....so naturally it looks a bit untidy....OP, dont worry about re-routing all the tubing, if thats what you found to be the most optimal, then stick with it let us know if the bubble clears ....it should If its possible to leave your fill port "open" then do that as it will assist in clearing air ...(Looks like a Photon 170 Pump / rez combo same as I have. so just leave the top plug out until finished bleeding), I leave mine out for a week or so!! Also for tube runs, my only rules: 1. Keep runs as short as possible 2. Try not to "cross" tubes 3. Where 90's are required (particularly input / output) off pump / rez, use 2 x 45's or better still 3 x 30's

Couple of things ha maybe hlpful for you: 1. The XSPC EX line of Rads are quite slim and DO NOT require high RPM Fans....high Static Pressure witharound 1400 RPM is excellent with these Rads (I know Im running 2 of em along with a thicker RX Rad). 2. When I WC'd my Silverstone TJ09...same thing I ran into with that gorgeous case (same as your LL), only room up top for a slim 240 Rad....I mounted a 360mm Rad on the back of the case with a Swiftech Bracket which mounted on te top / rear 120mm fan spot...... So, I had a slim 240 up top and a slim 360 on the back with a 980X and SLi 580 Classy's with awesome temps...all radson single "push" Noctua NF F Series Fans. The bracket on the back should solve the problem.....now where to mount pump n rez ? Have fun building, be patient and take your time......