Stagea

The Sharp UA330X is the best screen on the list if you don't need HDR. Much better contrast and uniformity than the LG or the Sony. I don't trust Toshiba anymore due to their widespread T-Con issue in the past.

In terms of mining power efficiency the 1070 is pretty much king on the Nvidia end, and the RX 580 for the AMD side. Price to performance, RX 580 takes it. Vega is currently on top for raw performance.

Most older movies are shot in film. Film to UHD transfers can be quite good.

Assess the risk based on the price difference. Only you can answer this question, really. I buy items from abroad all the time and have them shipped overseas. It's pretty rare to get an item that's DOA based on my experience, though in-warranty RMAs are also more difficult to do in case something fails prematurely.

I don't wanna ruin your day, but expect around 25W x 2 RMS at 2 Ohms clean.

You're welcome. Wishing you the best of luck with your project.

If you're yet to buy amplifiers for the rest of your speakers, I suggest looking for full range Class D amplifiers for them. That will at least reduce the total power demand of your sound system at a given playback level (they are just that much more efficient). They are also generally more compact at a given power level and are lighter. Here's an example: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_40254_NVX-JAD800.4.html Scroll down to see the Certified Results and Dynamic Results. As you can see this amplifier meets the promised results.

If you wanna look for a product that at least gets close to the rated output, look for the CEA-2006 badge. That is somewhat of a car audio "equivalent" of a PC power supply's 80+ rating. It's saying that the ratings are based on standardized testing procedures and parameters.

Either should do what you need. There are people who claim to have dyno tested the AR1.8000D to deliver about 80% of rated output (3.2 kW) in real-world conditions (using a large alternator and extra batteries) from a dynamic measurement standpoint. That should be sufficient for your described use case. We can pretty much consider the Hifonics and Soundstream amps in our discussion as 2 kW amplifiers when tested with a sine wave and powered realistically, and maybe reach 3 kW with music. Slightly more if the car has a beefed-up electrical system, and much less with factory electricals. Price differences from the same retailer generally may be caused by: 1. Brand perception / marketing 2. Design and component selection 3. Import duties (not so much of a factor here) 4. Supply & Demand For example, these amps may only be rated at 2,400 - 2,500 watts but they're actually guaranteed to meet that specification: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_127791_Kicker-KXA2400.1-44KXA24001.html https://www.crutchfield.com/S-g55toCDTnhN/p_57525001CP/Rockford-Fosgate-T2500-1bdCP.html If you check birth sheets of these models, you'd see that they're probably more powerful than the "4000W Continuous / 8000W Max" Soundstream and Hifonics amps that we were talking about. These models bench in the ballpark of 3 kW with a sine wave. Higher end products generally are rated and built more conservatively, which drives up the price. It's upto the wise buyer to decide on what would work for him/her. As with anything, there is a sweet spot for everyone. That being said, amplifier power is cheaper than ever (thanks to Class D topology). It's pretty amazing that you can get a 2 kW amplifier for $200 (ignore that it's being marketed as a 4 kW amp).

You're welcome. You can build the system and do the big three upgrade. Install a voltmeter (it can even be a cheap one that plugs into the cigarette lighter port); that'd give you an idea if the system voltage is dipping (letting you monitor your electrical demands to see if you need a much larger alternator and/or battery). I believe their dynamic power outputs are not that far from each other on the bench. I'd suppose the Hifonics would do better in terms of continuous power (good for test tones / burping / competition), but either should do the job for loud music playback (music is dynamic material).

Power supply side items to consider when building a powerful system: 1. Alternator - A high capacity alternator would be the foundation of a system that can play loud continuously (it should be capable enough to supply the amps and keep the battery charged) 2. Battery - A strong and durable battery will help take care of transient current demands (the alternator does not ramp output instantly, so they go hand in hand) 3. Conductors - Do a "Big 3" wiring upgrade and ensure that the wiring to the amplifier is of sufficient gauge (everything should be safely wired as well, of course) What car do you have by the way?

I believe many of Soundstream's ratings nowadays are at max input voltage (16V in this case). If you can get 12V to the amplifier terminal, the AR1.8000D amp will have a real limit of about 2,250W into 1 Ohm at 1% distortion. That'd be about typical for your subwoofer driver. Here's another option: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_128831_Hifonics-BRX4016.1D.html

As long as you are not maxing out the amplifier, then you are safe. The more powerful the amplifier, the more headroom you have (it is your subwoofer's power supply). An amplifier is an AC power supply with an output that's modulated according to the input signal from your source. Its aim is to replicate the input waveform in frequency, but produce a proportionally greater amplitude (this amplification factor is what they call "gain"). Like cheap power supplies, cheap amplifiers often do not output rated capacity (by how much, it really depends on a lot of factors). An amplifier hitting its limits will clip its output waveform, causing nasty distortion. It's nearly impossible to buy an amp that's too powerful with today's Class D designs (because they are so efficient that even a huge amp won't waste a lot of power). The subwoofer's power rating is generally just the maker's rated thermal capacity for the voice coil. Depending on the use, you may be able to push much more than this without damage (in cases of powerful transients without reaching mechanical limits) or damage it with far less power (if you constantly hit mechanical limits due to the wrong enclosure design or infrasonic filter setting).

You're welcome. Make sure that all the grounding points are good too. Alternator whine can be very difficult to diagnose at times.

You can install a noise suppressor on both constant and accessory power lines if you feel that the noise is coming from the power side. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Magnum-XLF-20BP-Common-Power-Filter/dp/B01IC27LHW You can also try installing RCA ground loop isolators.

It'd work. This may be worth a look too: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_127477_Soundstream-AR1.8000D-Class-D-Monoblock.html Lower cost car amps (like most Soundstream products) don't deliver rated power, especially as the supply voltages drop. Getting a larger amp like this will give you enough headroom (preventing clipping), and will run the parts at a lower duty cycle (potentially extending life). He's looking at a dual voice coil subwoofer. If he puts the coils in parallel, it will yield 1 Ohm nominal.

Rtings is among the best sources for TV information: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/qled-q7f-q7 Input lag is fast for a TV. It's a great TV overall, so I think you won't be disappointed. Viewing angle is typical for a VA panel; don't worry too much about it (unless you have people watching from the sides).

May be worth a look: http://www.costco.co.uk/view/p/hp-pavilion-15-bc006na-intel-core-i5-8gb-ram-1tb128gb-hybrid-drive-156-inch-notebook-217064

If it truly delivers the 50% higher performance and 50% lower power consumption versus Bristol Ridge on applications that people actually use, then it's definitely worth the wait.

It should do the job. The HDD will definitely be a damper on response. Here's an alternative with 16 GB RAM and an SSD: https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-GeForce-Backlit-G3-571-77QK/dp/B06Y4GZS9C

KS 7000 if you plan on using it for HDR. This is a UHD Premium display.

People generally shouldn't wear closed back headphones in public anyway.

It's hard to find a decent computer with a good screen at that price (the screen would be useful for your Photoshop work). It's one or the other for the most part. Solutions like these may be in your budget, but do inspect the screen yourself to see if they would suffice. https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Inspiron-Touchscreen-MaxxAudio-Bluetooth/dp/B073YC5D78 https://www.amazon.com/HP-Touchscreen-Quad-Core-A10-9600P-Refurbishd/dp/B01NCNRYIV That's 305 and 304 USD respectively. If you're talking CAD, it's gonna be quite a bit more difficult.

Koss Pro-4AA and the like may not be the ultimate in reproduction, but they do sound better than most active noise cancellation headphones in my opinion.

That notebook runs in hybrid crossfire mode, so yes it has two GPUs. It utilizes one built into the APU and one discrete GPU. Some games work well with that setup, but many don't. Using the built-in GPU of the APU also makes the package hit thermal and power limits sooner (which can result in throttled clock rates for the CPU cores). Try playing with the crossfire setting to see if it can fix your problem. http://support.amd.com/en-us/kb-articles/Pages/How-to-Configure-AMD-CrossFire-Using-AMD-Radeon-Settings.aspx As for Solidworks, it needs quite a bit of CPU muscle. Check if Radeon ProRender will support your GPU: https://pro.radeon.com/en-us/radeon-prorender-for-blender-and-solidworks-now-available/ If it does, it might be able to offload some work from your CPU (and speed things up a bit).