Stagea

Get an inexpensive one for now (maybe even a refurb one), as an updated bluray format is expected to arrive by the end of the year.

The extra $70 will get you better realistic extension and higher output capability before distortion gets bothering. You can always reduce the bass driver output with the handy dial, if you so prefer. The THX Multimedia certification means that it can deliver reference levels of volume within a set threshold of distortion and a passing frequency response from 28 inches away. It may be worth something if you're after recreating the cinema experience on your desk.

Maybe the Alfa Romeo MiTo Turbo or the Renault Megane Turbo? If you want a newer car, then maybe the Renault Wind.

No offense taken. I just wanted to put that information up front as he might get disappointed upon initial hookup.

Incorrect edit/post... Please ignore (stubby fingers on a phone).

Yup, no air-conditioning is a real health risk here. I am still on the fence if I should live here for good, or if I should move to the temperate zone (lots of stuff to dispose of and lots of paperwork to do, if I go this route).

True. Unfortunately, I live in a country with high humidity and daytime temperatures between 30 and 40 Celsius all year round. The only good thing about it is I never have to blow/shovel snow. I hear the current Viper is very refined. I cannot afford that car though, as I don't foresee plopping over 60k USD on a car anytime soon (my cars are all in the 25-50k range). The Viper is like 230k where I am at (thanks to weird tax laws).

I rented a first gen one a long time ago. It was fun, but the A/C was weak and the floor gets quite hot. It doesn't help that it was summer in Nevada.

Unlike home bookshelf speakers that normally have a low frequency bump to compensate for the lack of extension, professional monitors typically have a flatter response. This may need to be compensated for by either a tone control or an equalizer to be enjoyable with EDM (unless you're getting large monitors). Having a subwoofer would be better, if you can fit that in.

I see. If your current speakers are doing the job, then you can probably stick with them. The Jamo P102 sometimes goes below 300 quid, so that may be worth a look too. This is a lifestyle system, so don't expect a lot from it (it does have crisp highs, which can help with your EDM stuff). As mentioned before, the Klipsch Promedia 2.1 is probably a very good option for you.

Polk SB 5500. It's 189.88 USD at Sam's Club.

I suggest looking at more powerful options if that is the case. Something like this for less than 300 quid: http://www.richersounds.com/product/amplifiers-receivers/onkyo/a9030/onky-a9030-blk http://www.richersounds.com/product/floorstanders/mission/m33i/miss-m33i-blk With that pair, you may not need a subwoofer to get sufficient low frequency output. I am pretty sure that this would be a big jump over your existing speakers. Here's another compelling set for your budget: http://www.richersounds.com/package/system-savers/hi-fi-system-deals/pah012542

They probably no longer carry them (or it may no longer be available). They used to have them there. I am sure he can get a good deal somewhere. IAG is very good with dropping prices. The Mission MX1 and the Tannoy Mercury V1 aren't bad either.

Since he's in the UK, it might not cost that much. He can buy from Richer Sounds (they have great bargains). I often envy their pricing. http://www.richersounds.com/products/hi-fi-separates/speakers/bookshelf-speakers http://www.richersounds.com/products/hi-fi-separates/separates/amplifiers-receivers

Sorry about that. I've had a lot of Wharfedale Diamond models before, and the 9s were my favorite (particularly the 9.3 and the 9.6). I still own a few, and they do hold up well against some of my pricier speakers. The 9.3 is the most balanced of the Diamond 9 models, based on my experience (no huge hump in the response). More people prefer the voicing of the 9.1 though, as most people enjoy the bass emphasis.

I'm on the Diamond boat too (they can sound very good when matched and positioned well). I don't think you're under-utilizing them without bi-amping, however. Each side will work with a single channel just fine. Passive bi-amping this speaker can reduce interaction between the tweeter and the woofer, but a good amplifier should be able to manage that quite well anyway (at least those with a low enough output impedance). Dynamic headroom also does not change much, especially for most AV Receivers (since all the channels normally pull from the same rail). I am not saying that there is no advantage in doing so, it's just that the improvement in such a setup declines as amp quality goes up (unless you use the separate amp gains to tailor the sound).

Congrats in advance! The better calibration/EQ system and the heftier amp power supply should help.

A sound bar can work as long as you set your expectations right. A true 5.1 setup is almost always better (at least for directional audio). If you're into bars, this might be worth a look too: http://www.samsclub.com/sams/polk-sound-bar-5500/prod15670182.ip You'd want the extra width on a sound bar to provide an immersive environment (for some audible channel separation). The Razer seems too narrow for anything more than desktop use.

They are doing excellent with initial quality. This means that they have fewer defects out of the box. J.D. Power's Initial quality statistics are based on the number of complaints for 90 day old cars. There is a different study called vehicle dependability study (VDS), which is over the longer term. It is supposed to measure failure rate through the ownership period. Lexus, Toyota and Buick do very well in this metric.

Think about other stuff too: 1. Speaker and Projector Mounting 2. Equipment Rack 3. Furniture and Room Layout 4. Acoustics

Yes, the color of the room will have an effect even if you have your lights off. The light bouncing off your screen will illuminate the room, and will reflect back into the screen. This kills contrast. These ones are good bang/buck, just choose the right screen size for your room and your throw distance: http://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-Sable-150-inch-Diagonal/dp/B00FXOTWY8/ For a light-colored room with not many viewers off-axis, select the PowerGain style. That style rejects stray light better.

Have you shopped around for the right screen? That is just as important as the projector when it comes to picture quality. How's your room's finish and lighting? A dark-colored room will almost always do better than a light-colored room.

That's the one. Get the right lengths to reach your speakers. Get good HDMI cables, particularly for the long run from the AV Receiver to your Projector (since it'd likely go to your ceiling). Something like this should work: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-High-Speed-Technology-Supports-Ethernet/dp/B008D5EVDQ

Search "silverback speaker wires" in Amazon. You'd see it in different pre-terminated lengths. Buy 5 of them to reach all your speakers.

The bookshelves are sold in pairs, so one "Qty." should get you two units (unlike the towers that are sold per piece). Speaker wires like this would do (as long as you wouldn't put it behind your walls): http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Enhanced-Oxygen-Free-Copper-Speaker/dp/B003L14ZAQ If you like banana plugs, you can get something like this to terminate your speaker wires: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Gold-Connector-Banana-Plugs/dp/B0090CVJZ4 A mono RCA cable can be used to hook up your sub. Something like this (just select the length that would suit your application): http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVX9FO The surround bookshelves can be wall-mounted or put on stands (depending on your room layout). The center speaker will either be on a stand or on a shelf (also depending on your room layout).