ShadowChaser

that's about all that I could find. I'm rather disappointed that this isn't something that can be easily adjusted. I previously had the same problems with my icons at the right side of the taskbar being made wider than they were before

they are the same image with different button widths highlighted, the difference is night and day, as you so helpfully demonstrated with your side by side comparison but that's beside the point, I have no idea how to change the width x_x Edit: see how the first three occupy a mostly square space while the last three are clearly rectangular

The spacing between the explorer and chrome is much larger than that of the search and windows buttons, for instance, and it's visually annoying that the taskbar is not consistent across it's length. Maybe it's because I've zoomed in so far but it's super obvious on my desktop EDIT: added an illustration to hopefully show the difference

I unfortunately don't apart from some preliminary testing determining that thermals were less than ideal, I stopped working on this as I was working on moving to college. I guess all that matters is that it works it just doesn't work well What's happened since the last update: New PCIe extension came - it works but was bulkier than expected Booted the system in the xbox with just the 3 60mm intakes, idled pretty warm and was about as loud as the original xbox 360 Played some games that weren't too stressful - CPU hit the mid/high 80s and GPU was borderline at 90ish degrees So sorry to disappoint you, but I guess it was wishful thinking to think that this would be an amazing performer given the terrible cooling that I 'engineered'

I booted up my laptop this morning and I saw that my taskbar buttons were much wider than they were before. How can I change the width of the buttons? Similarly, the height of the icons and folders in the sidebar of windows explorer are much taller than they were before. I prefer to have these as dense as possible so the 'dedensification' that windows automatically did is really bugging me (all covid jokes aside). Any tips? I already tried messing with the MinWidth value in registry editor and no dice. Here's the width I'm expecting: Here's what the button width is now: It just looks so wrong when there's enough space in between the icons for an extra one.

How long should it take (or how long did you set it) to wait before sleeping?

Can you manually trigger it to sleep by clicking on the 'sleep' option in your power menu?

In MSI Afterburner you can either make your own custom fan profile or manually set a desired fan speed (in percentage), which should help you in your situation

Pretty much the question in the title: if I have FS 2020 on Game Pass right now and I want to buy it down the road do I have to redownload all of my game files? I ask because I have a data cap and that would be most unfortunate.

I believe that on most motherboards the CPU fan header and pump header is given the most amount of power if there is any difference, so your best option might be to plug the pump into the pump header and rad fans into your CPU header. This way you still have your CPU-OPT open and then you can split off your chassis fan header to your case fans

so when your aio is at the front it's better for the tubes to be on the bottom. GN did a thing about this a while back but it's accepted as generally good practice. When the rad is on the top of the case it obviously won't matter. When the rad is at the front and the tubes are on top it's easier and more likely for bubbles to get into the pump as time goes on, so even if it's fine and quiet now if may become louder over time more so than in the other orientation. It's less about the fans and more about how coolant flows and where the air bubbles are likely to be.

Thankfully the first 2 don't really affect me and while I'm not a big fan of the 3rd I can live with it, thanks for the info

Cool, thanks. What's so bad about it? It's the only board in my price range that seems to have decent VRMs, 2 M.2 SSD slots and support for a 16x, 8x, and a 1x card (which I use daily) It's why I got the B450m Pro4 but it just crapped itself so a replacement is necessary.

What's the word on the AsRock B550-Pro4? I need a not terrible motherboard to put a 3600 in at the present and I'm hoping to put an 8 or 12 core in down the road so other cheaper options like the Gigabyte Aorus Elite won't do and options on the list at the moment are either out of my budget at the moment or out of stock. All I know is that it's 8-phase 50A but I've no clue what that puts it at relative to the other motherboards. Cheers!

So I'm going to be off to uni soon, and as such most of my (admittedly excessive) hardware collection needs to be disposed of. With that in mind I decided to throw together one last overkill (for me) setup before I tear everything down and start selling and what not. Please excuse the mess on my desk as this was done pretty much in the middle of packing but I ended up being pretty happy with the result. I've recreated the setup that I used for most of this past year, though 'used' is rather generous as the system sat untouched for many days at a time as I relied on my laptop for remote learning and work. Final Setup: Build: This is the computer that I'll be bringing with me - I splurged hard on an NCase M1 and the accompanying Iceman pump/res block and Bykski DDC pump. This was a massive upgrade from my Node 202 for not a lot more space sacrificed. Inside are the following components: i7-8700K - 5.0Ghz @ 1.225v Corsair H75 CLC 2x16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 2666 Asus Strix Z390I Gaming MSI Aero GTX 1070 Ti - EKWB Titan X Pascal block + XSPC TX240 Radiator w/ 2x Silverstone FN123 Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + HP EX920 1TB Corsair SF450 Gold + Sleeved Cable Set Tubing is Primochill LRT Black. The whole setup brings these into the mix: Primary Monitor: AOC Agon AG241QX QHD 144hz Gaming monitor, which I am lucky enough to be able to bring with me Secondary Displays: Asus VS247H-P FHD 60hz monitors, 5 year old displays that have outlived every single part of the original build I paired them with back in 2015 Peripherals: Razer Blackwidow Ultimate Stealth w/ Razer Orange switches HIRALIY F300 Gaming Mouse, the cheapest RGB mouse I could afford at the time Blue Snowball iCE + Knox scissor arm & filter, which got me through all the voiceovers for documentaries I filmed for history class Wacom CTH-480, one of the best tablets ever made, it still makes me sad they aren't available anymore Creative A250 2.1 Speaker System, also the cheapest speakers I could get that weren't crap. Kingston 7-in-1 Card Reader WD Elements 8TB, used only for backups Mouse Windows Hello Webcam This is the setup that I've been living with, more or less, for the past few weeks and I'm sure to miss it. It's great for my 'purely a hobby' video editing and digital art workflow, while also being completely overbuilt for both single and multi-monitor gaming in my case. Feel free to roast me on my now rather outdated setup and the atrocious state it's in

Hmm, I think you must have gotten lucky, though to be fair aplle support tends to be quite good for their prosumer customers on the software front. I used to work for a computer repair store and from my experience, while Macs tended to have fewer problems, when they do it's rather catastrophic. And just because you don't set a time for windows to auto-update (which is pretty much what MacOS does) doesn't mean others don't - I've never had an update intrude on my work. Now granted MacOS is superior in terms of how intuitive it is and how stable it is, but it is by no means currently the more 'secure' OS - the reason why it is still touted as such is due to hardware implementations like the T2 security chip, which won't be present on a hackintosh build. That's my opinion on the subject - it still comes down to general safety and common sense in the end, because if a malicious party were to want to plant anything they could with relative ease on either platform. If security was such a concern there are more options on the market but I'm not well versed on this field at all so I'll leave it to the experts. I think it's generally a good idea to wait for what AMD can offer with their new Radeons, and to also see how easily and how well they hackintosh. You know, I went the complete opposite way as you did, sticking with MacOS up till Lion before switching to Windows 7 and 10 XD. I'm actually really excited for what they're doing to bring ARM to the table - provided that they can get a powerful chip that 'just works'. That might be enough to let me switch back for my casual use. I think your wife got supremely unlucky, or it might just be another Asus goof. They have the really good and the superbly bad, so who knows? I have been daily driving XPS 13s for the last few generations and they are much more 'stable' than other PCs I've used. I really don't know what exe error you're talking about bc I've never experienced it and my colleagues have no clue either. Frankly I wouldn't be surprised if it is just some niche Windows thing haha

Yeah, those were dark times for AMD If you want to hackintosh I think you're limited to intel cpus and radeon gpus, which sucks. I guess Windows ain't for everyone but both of those problems you think you'll experience pretty much only arise when you stop maintaining your OS, which on a professional machine you ought to be doing anyway. If you do want MacOS I guess Z490 makes sense if you don't need ECC capability and are ok with the RAM cap of 128GB. I think the Radeon VII is the best GPU that MacOS can support, but good luck finding one for a decent price.

I think in terms of pure gaming the 5700 will win out but the 2060KO performs very well in workstationy applications - check GN's video on the topic and if any of those applications are ones that you think you'll use, compare those two cards.

I think Buildzoid said it best, there's no point buying a $750 'do it all' mobo when any of the $300 ones will be better if you know what you're using it for. I'm inclined to agree that buying a 3950X would make more sense, especially since GPU acceleration is becoming more and more important anyway in the video editing and transcoding space. The 10th gen desktop chips just aren't there in terms of efficiency and anyone buying them outside of strictly single threaded workloads needs to reevaluate their priorities, as I don't understand why it would be necessary to sacrifice so much in terms of cooling and power for them.

Looking good! I'd make a few changes, though! 1. I'd run two dedicated PCIe cables to your GPU if you can, daisychaining isn't wrong, per se, but not optimal for power delivery. 2. With an aio the tubes should enter the radiator from the bottom and not the top - flip it 180 and you'll increase the longevity in most cases as the pump won't deal with as many air bubbles. 3. Reverse the airflow configuration using the rear and top fans as intakes and the front as exhaust. Weird, I know, but the front fans are actually rather choked if memory serves correct and you'll want to maximize airflow potential in that case. And these are some nice to haves that you should totally look into: 1. Sleeved Cables or cable extensions - if you have a color scheme you're going for these help a lot! Though having black cables is at least better than ketchup and mustard 2. Get a better support bracket - the ones that attach to the rear pcie slots usually don't help much - try to find one that has a point that rests or attaches to the PSU shroud, or at least has a wider attachment area at the rear. The one you have doesn't look like it attaches across more than, say, an inch. System is looking snazzy! Hope it serves you well!

Still waiting on that PCIe extension... But I've been keeping busy in the meantime. I've voided the warranty on my GPU by removing the DVI connector and a few fins And I marked out and cut out the graphics outputs from the GPU To think that an hour of chiselling with a utility blade only got me this far... And I've yet to design a rear faceplate for the motheroard i/o... It's also been made obvious that there won't be enough passive airflow over the gpu to keep it cool enough, even with the underclock, so I'm looking to remedy that with moar fans. Probably of the 40 or 50mm variety. That concludes what I've done more or less up to this point. It's slow going, I know, but sitting here twiddling my thumbs isn't going to make the deliveries faster... So playing the waiting game it is

The orientation of the CPU in the tool does not technically matter, as I don't think it's possible for the block that moves the ihs to ever travel far enough to push into the die area.

Be careful with the razor method, don't expose too much of the blade otherwise you'll chip the die. Definitely not speaking from experience and had to sell a 6600K for next to nothing :)))))

If you go aircooling I really think you might have to rethink your airflow as it generally isn't recommended for you to intake from the top with a tower cooler. Generally speaking a 120mm 4-heatpipe cooler will be more than enough. For the price I think what you have chosen is quite nice but make sure you're not paying too much more those LEDs

oh totally but it also is almost 50% more expensive Just depends if that money could be saved and better used elsewhere. I believe the max boards come with the full click-bios and not the stripped down version so the UI is much better than what AsRock offers