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About N.tony

  • Title

Contact Methods

  • Steam

Profile Information

  • Gender


  • CPU
    Core i5 3350P
  • Motherboard
    ASRock Z77 Pro4
  • RAM
    4x4Gb Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24
  • GPU
    AMD Radeon 290X
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R4 Black
  • PSU
    Corsair CX600
  • Display(s)
    ASUS MG278Q 1440p 27" 144Hz FreeSync
  • Sound
    Creative X-fi Titanium 7.1
  • Operating System
    MS Windows 7

Recent Profile Visitors

1,032 profile views
  1. ...and in today's video we're making a catapult on the budget with the help from our sponsors... Calradian Instruments! They use military grade nails and finest Sturgian wood! I couldn't just leave it at that, obviously, it's Bannerlord after all P.S. a banner was made in this tool, here's the code you can just paste into the game:
  2. I've been folding for two weeks now... I got 9.5M points, when my combined GPU power estimates 3.5M a day... That means that I've managed to fold for roughly 20% of the time, even though the main rig with 2080Ti was supposed to be folding 24/7. On one hand I really am glad people are willing to help with the project, but it is really concerning that the situation is not improving - there was probably 2 GPU WUs available for me in the last 48 hours. I hope Linus and Jakkuh have the server project as their top priority, though it's still unclear whether youtube is demonetizing the videos mentioning the C-word...
  3. Doesn't look like it, it only tries to connect to and both of those seem fine https://apps.foldingathome.org/serverstats
  4. I rebooted the whole PC, it started asking for WUs on different servers, but still no dice with submitting the job
  5. I have the opposite problem, can't submit a finished WU... For like 6 hours already:
  6. Today was the first day I started F@H, no point of reference whatsoever, which together with the constantly time-out stats services and overload of numbers in the web interface made it really difficult to know if this is a lot or not ? But I've already grinded almost 300k points, so I guess it's not too hard ?
  7. @Aznsteil haha, I'm glad you found it helpful, I wasn't even sure it's something anyone likes or wants to hear, I know full well that from time to time I am falling into this uncontrollable urge to get something without properly figuring out if it's right for me... And for the audio the choice process is super-frustrating, you're basically relying on people's weird translation of their feelings into a set of random terms that tell you how *they* are differentiating between the speakers... I guess one more piece of advice I could give is to use your great headphones (fellow beyerdynamic fan here ?) and check some high quality comparison youtube videos - even if it's not 100% the experience you're gonna get, it is at least a good approximation, and somewhat represents relative difference between speaker sets - maybe it will help you to find the right direction? (you should probably also go check the tracks from the description to establish a baseline)
  8. I guess the sub out on the R1850DB is an aberration, maybe it was an experiment or something... When you go up the price range, it is assumed that you are buying separate speakers and amplifiers, so active speakers disappear at that point. On the lower end, though, you normally see 2.1 systems with the amp being built into the larger casing of the sub, while the satellites are made as small as possible. If you intend to get a high grade amp down the line, maybe buying an active 2.0 speaker pair was not the best choice? ? You say you can still return it? I would maybe consider in this case to go for something like ELAC's (as was suggested in the other thread) and either get the amp you want or some cheapo temp amp for the time being... However, before you invest thousands into your setup, you also have to consider the usage scenario... HiFi and audiophile stuff is sadly not based on hard science as much as, for example, the visual output devices - there isn't really an objective set of meaningful characteristics (though even for monitors those characteristics they put on the box are hardly meaningful), and after a certain price range (which comes way sooner than you would expect) it mostly comes down to personal preferences/personal anatomy. What's worse, somewhere slightly above that price range comes another point of diminishing returns, where the room treatment and speaker placement can negate all improvements of the setup. In my room, where a somewhat loud desktop is sitting at the edge of the desk, I mainly got the R1850's out of aesthetic reasons - previous Microlab B-77 didn't match the black&white color scheme. Yet I would be hard pressed to find the difference in sound, despite almost triple the price. Maybe I'm half-deaf, maybe it's the shape of my ears, maybe it's the soundcard, who knows... But I bet at least half of the people who buy sound systems over 100€/speaker are overkilling it ? Of course, just as with driving cars, self-reporting will tell you that ~90% of the people think they are better than average at it, which leads to getting platinum audiocables and other snakeoil... I'm saying all that to kind of warn you, maybe? Do you even feel the need for a subwoofer right now with your S2000's? Would it make sense to spend hundreds of €s on a device based on the subjective opinion of people, knowing that there's a great chance they either don't know what they are talking about, or they have a different set of preferences? (I'm saying that as a person who has definitely spent dozens if not hundreds of hours listening to audiophile talks and dev interviews, so I understand the urge)
  9. Yes! I knew someone must have done something like this, probably out of similar frustration... Thanks a lot! Though it's not quite the same problem, since I am using a jack on the front i/o and not the usb headphones, so technically it is the same device, however, the utility is pretty advanced and after digging around the ini file I found that you can switch speaker configuration and you can even customize both options! I am still amazed at how this is still an issue in 2020, but at least it has been reduced to pressing a keyboard shortcut ?
  10. I got a cheaper Edifier R1850DB at the end of summer (it was only 141€ for some reason) https://www.amazon.de/dp/B073W1R4XQ/ It has a dedicated sub out (on top of 2 sets of RCA inputs, a digital input and even a bluetooth), maybe something to consider as a less messy option
  11. It would be absolutely the same problem if I had a 5.1 or a quadraphonic setup... It is obviously not a hardware limitation - the driver/software definitely recognizes when I plug in something in the front i/o, since it silences the speakers, so it is extremely puzzling to me why it doesn't switch to stereo configuration in this case... I can't use my previous setup because 1. my motherboard doesn't have a PCI connector for the Creative X-fi (it was released in 2006) 2. my case doesn't have a 5.25 bay for the front i/o of the Creative X-fi 3. Creative X-fi was pre-HDaudio front i/o standard so it's not compatible with it How would you do that?
  12. Not to be rude, but that's kind of the whole point of my post - I *want* the system to switch to stereo once the headphones are plugged in, but even though the driver obviously detects and switches to the headphones, it still retains the 7.1 speaker configuration, thus all the games still separate the sound to their channels and I don't hear anything from the back
  13. Ever since I upgraded to the new PC and gave up on my beloved Creative X-fi, I cannot figure this one out, and can't even figure out how to formulate the google query correctly, since it keeps showing wrong results ? I have an Asrock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX MB with a Realtek ALC1220 Audio Codec, a 7.1 surround system and a pair of headphones. The Realtek software has an automatic jack detection option However, when I plug my headphones in, the speaker configuration stays at 7.1, which means, I can only hear the front R/L speakers in my headphones and all the central/surround channels are simply vanishing - super annoying in games, where I lose the sound from anything happening behind me ? I only use headphones when playing in coop, which happens rarely, but it's a pain in the butt to fiddle with the speaker configuration everytime I have to plug it in. The old creative drivers, as terrible as they were for Win10, were smart enough to switch to headphones profile once they detect the front panel jack connection, and even kept their separate volume and everything... Have anyone encountered this/solved it somehow? I've tried like 5 different driver versions over the last half a year, currently on official Asrock drivers