NotTayyeb

Literally push this flappy wire bit towards the middle of the heatsink (see arrow if you're still unsure), and then pull it away.... Its the same mechanism as on the DarkRock3 - a pretty good tool-less mechanism if imo

Ah! that makes more sense now.... but I suppose its just luck of the draw with your chip - the guide says 4.5ghz@1.3v as an average, some chips would be able to do it at less voltage, some at a higher voltage.. A more expensive motherboard could have helped, but not greatly i dont think - they basically have better power delivery and so can shave off a bit of voltage and help stability somewhat..... Have you made sure your CPU power cable is in properly? worth checking lol.... beyond that i think its just dumb luck i guess

Its not concerning - overlocking isnt directly proportional to the voltage increase. 4ghz@1.3v is one thing, and then 4.3ghz being a higher clock, would of course need more voltage - i dont see whats so concerning.... But I guess you did just get unlucky with the chip that you got... Intel doesnt guarantee a decent overclock on their chips, theyre designed to run at the factory spec, and everything else beyond that is just luck...

Ok so, I have a surface 3 tablet with the type cover. A really annoying software thing I've noticed is that when the device is rotated about 45 degrees or more, the keyboard will auto disconnect. Sure, theres probably reasons for that to happen, but how would one go about turning that off? Really annoying that the keyboard and trackpad will turn off when the device is rotated - i.e. when im lying on side in bed lol.... Anyone know a workaround to this? Maybe a registry edit or something to stop the keyboard disconnecting when device is rotated?

So I'm getting a surface tablet, and will inevitably need to upgrade the storage on it... Seeing as there is a micro SD card slot, i was just wondering if i could buy and slap in a used 128gb micro SD card... I've never really bought any used storage devices before, so just curious what you guys think about used micro SD cards - should it be avoided like used SSDs? Will be buying it from CeX, a somewhat reliable second hand tech store in the UK, so not too worried about it being a fake card or whatever Cheers

The videos are fine on other displays, and nothing seems to be an issue from that pixel test

I think the message would be referring to video RAM, not your normal RAM... What are your system specs?

Ok so I'm a display noob, best to start off confessing that... I use a probably 3+ year old1080p Logik l22ldib11a TV (it was cheap af) as a monitor on my main pc, running 1080p60.. the issue is that recently I've noticed that display out is "artifacting" - not the kind of artifacting like you may get from GPU OCs but more like random dark looking vibrating pixels only ever on random images/videos (see pictures) I've tried pressing against them because why not, and nothing... Changing picture settings on the display might fix the issue in one place, but make it appear in another... It's definitely not the cable I'm using or my GPU as I've tried a different cable, and tried connecting the display to a laptop, but issue persists Anyone got any ideas for a fix?

It could just be a bad cable? Tried different cables?

Remove the GPU from the system, plug display to a motherboard video out.. boot up like normal - the system will use integrated graphics.... Run DDU to remove all graphics drivers, then reinstall your gtx 970 driver DDU: http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html

Both CPU and motherboard will support overclocking..... regarding how much, its impossible to tell - every chip is made differently - it could overclock insanely well, but it could also not want to overclock at all....... You'll have to try to find out

I dont think this would matter with a 3k budget.......

JUST GET A DAMN FAN HUB OR FAN SPLITTER!! :'(

ah! so dont worry about it! when you get your motherboard, most modern motherboards have a bunch of fan headers, each of which can take a couple of fans each using fan splitters - this way you can control their speeds.... and Most modern PSUs have molex connectors, if needed you can connect fans to a molex fan hub so theyre directly connected to the PSU, but theyll always run at 100% if connected via molex

What motherboard and PSU are you currently using? Its just that the whole second PSU option seems a bit extreme and unconventional....

It depends on the fan hub i guess, but theres even fan splitters... Like i have 3 or 4 fans connected to a single header using a fan splitter on my motherboard i think...

Why not just get a fan hub....?

4690k stable at 4.4ghz, 1.25v - around 65C under load with a Dark rock 3 (I could probably drop the voltage, or increase the frequency, but havent had the time to experiment further....)

PCPartpicker is your saviour.... slap in all the features youre after in a case, and it'll show you what matches, where to buy it, and for how much.. Its also good practice to create your build list on PCPartpicker too if youre unsure about anything, as it will usually point out any incompatibilities automatically, and you could then always share yourlist on the new builds and planning thread for last second advice https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/

All you needed to do was check the manufacturers specification for the mobo, sir.... RAID0 is supported, and the motherboard has 2 M.2 ports - either one will be fine to house your 600p... And with regards to running RAID0 with 1 SSD - revise what RAID0 does..... its impossible to do what RAID0 does with less than 2 drives... https://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/ROG-Strix-Z270I-Gaming/specifications/

I think thats just TurboBoost being TurboBoost.... Think about it logically, like when overclocking, if you wanna increase the clock speed, you need to increase the voltage a bit - TurboBoost is like dynamic overclocking, and so it will automatically increase the voltage when it wants to boost the CPU up... I think its for this reason that its said that generally when overclocking, you should turn turbo boost off.... But to be on the safe side, I would try performing a CMOS reset just to hard reset all your BIOS settings to see if that sorts the high voltages out - you might have knocked a setting in BIOS without realising it.. Perform CMOS reset: (use option 2) https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-clear-cmos-2624545

I dont think the speakers needed - its annoying if anything... I think the build should work fine without it

Would you be referring to like how Asus do a z270-A, a z270-K, a z270-P, etc? If so, that's not a huge concern - its just different models of the same motherboard, so headers and I/O might be a bit different, and maybe some power delivery stuff too.. I dont think any of this stuff will have any incompatibilities though, like something that works in a z270-A would likely work fine in a z270-K.. I'd recommend just looking on the manufacturers website for whatever motherboards it is, and comparing them there

yep! just going to be one 4 pin connector from the hub to connect to a 4 pin fan header on the motherboard

haha so now you know first hand what auto overclocking is like - glad we got rid of the unnecessary 0.13v Your 4.9ghz@ 1.27v though, what are your idle and load temps like? And have you given it a decent bit of testing? Let it run a stress test for a few hours to make sure its definitely stable - theres nothing worse than having your PC randomly blue screen shut down on you when you're in the middle of something important