Kalm_Traveler

yes, and it is open right now (been running dw and a new Primochill system cleaner/prep fluid for 2 days) sure thing as soon as I am home in a few hours. It's a bit difficult to get a good shot of all of that because the whole motherboard is horizontal, and the radiator fans are about 3 inches above the graphics cards but I will do my best. This is about as good as I can get since the radiator fans are so low... Don't mind the nasty soft tubing, i hadn't mounted the pump/res when i ran those so left extra. They're all clouded from my first attempt at PrimoChill Vue so I have a new 10 foot piece to redo the runs with more appropriate lengths. Actually debating going hard tubing once this rig is completely finalized.

they top out about 47 C (I keep the room at 70 F / 21.1 C) I believe. I can check again when I get home but I'm quite sure they have never reached 50 C.

thanks - that is kind of what I was afraid of. I have tipped the case 90 and 180 (upside down) to try and get all air bubbles out but as soon as it's upright again those 2 spots in both graphics card blocks become air pockets again immediately.

That's the problem, I have leaned it every which way, the air pocket/gap returns as soon as the PC is back in the normal position. I'm wondering if maybe the pump is just not providing enough pressure to the loop to force the liquid to fill the entire card blocks. If that's the case, I would imagine changing the graphics cards flow to be in series instead of parallel would help to increase pressure? The water bridge block included a little plug that you can install in one side if you want to have the cards flow in series instead but I wanted to run them in parallel initially.

weird... the page loads fine for me. The instructions don't really say anything at all... here is a pic:

I'm trying to decide on a mainstream build to complement my main rig, and haven't fully committed to the Corsair 1000D since I likely wouldn't want both machines in the same case, and I like ATX over mATX or ITX for expand-ability down the line. Was thinking it would be fun to put together a more subtle-looking and quieter mainstream rig with a delidded 8700k and one of these Titan V's if I can't mod them to enable NVLink (still fiddling with BIOS flashing to try and turn them into fake Quadro GV100's). From watching a bunch of reviews, I like the overall design of the Define R6 but am not sure if the front side intake vents will allow enough airflow for a front radiator to be effective (would do a 360mm in the top and 360mm in the front for this build if I use the R6). For anyone who has used it, do you think this setup would be ok even though the front intake is not particularly good for air flow?

Yeah I have tried, those two spots on both video card blocks don't seem to go away though. The cards are not running hot but it looks bad This is the product page - what do you think based on looking at the design?: https://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=173_268_270_276&products_id=5816

Thanks, yep i have the fluid bridge set up for parallel. If those air pockets don't matter I'll just forget about them - was curious because it looks a little bit like if the fluid were running in the opposite direction it might not create the air pockets.

My build is in the Thermaltake Core X9 so the mb is horizontal which means the cards are vertical, and I've been wondering if maybe in this orientation I need to have the loop flowing the opposite direction since there are these two air bubbly spots in both blocks and I can't seem so make them go away with tipping the case. Do they matter? And/or should i try making the inlets on the right side and outlets on the left instead? Right now the inlets are on the left, outlets are on the right (right side tube exits the bridge block and connects to the pump/res IN).

My current build has 2 480mm rads in series. Works great ?

You could also check out WASD keyboards. They are somewhat customizable and are not backlit.

You'll lose the speed boost of dual channel RAM if you don't install matching pairs of DIMMs.

Not sure why this is asked weekly, and the same wrong answers are given as far as SLI being effective... If you Google your exact question and read articles within the last 12 months you will find several websites that did tests with a bunch of current games, and several SLI configs at various resolutions. The results are that it does help with the majority of games. Some games see no benefit, and some actually see a performance hit or refuse to run. So it really comes down to the games you're going to play, resolution your monitor is, and fps you want to maintain. That being said, the 'play it safe' option if you absolutely can't save up for 2 top-end cards is that 1 top end card will always give great performance in any game, whereas two mid-level cards in SLI will beat it in some games (by varying fps amounts), equal it in some, and be worse in a few because you'll have to disable SLI to play them and will then be gaming using only 1 mid-range card instead of the top-end card you would have otherwise purchased. Tldr; If you can save up for two of the best, SLI is great, but if you absolutely can't save up, a single 1080Ti is a smarter option than a pair of 1070 in SLI.

Not sure what you mean exactly. If you have both cards horizontal they would just need to be spaced apart for an HB SLI bridge to connect. Do you mean having 1 horizontal and 1 mounted directly to the MB?

100% agree - I've just given up on quiet it seems. My old case is the Coolermaster HAF X and when it was my primary I had the front lower 230mm, added a 140 in the 5.25" drive bays, populated both 200mm above the top radiator (hoping to help evacuate air up and out), a 140 rear exhaust, and a 360mm AIO with 3 120's inside pushing up through the radiator. With the current build I'm using a Thermaltake Core X9 with two 200's on the front, 8 120's on the radiators pushing up out the top, 2 120's in the floor pulling up, a 140 rear exhaust above the MB tray, and a 140 rear intake below the MB tray. There is no hope of silence OP - ultimately you need to decide what balance between quiet and airflow is acceptable and go from there. There are a number of cases that should be 'good enough' airflow to keep a reasonable build from melting and be pretty much silent if that's your main concern.

Given the same case and fan you're correct. I would add that you can get more airflow without more noise by using a larger fan, so that may be factored into case choice eg 140mm instead of 120mm or 200mm for overkill. The Corsair H500p mesh comes to mind.

AFAIK the keyboard itself needs to be USB compatible for those passive plug converters to work. IE you can't grab some 30 year old original IBM PS/2 mouse and have it work with a passive adapter.

My last keyboard (still have it) was a k70 lux rgb with blue switches. I'm not a super competitive gamer and love the clicky feel of Cherry MX blue switches so I game with them as well. My first mechanical keyboard was a WASD with browns, and i have a Cherry brand keyboard with browns at work but blues are the most comfortable for me overall.

Outside competitive gaming, i would recommend brown or blue. Blues are the best for typing IMO and I've grown so used to the tactile feedback that i prefer to game with them as well. Reds are definitely the best for fast-twitch competitive gaming though hands down.

The best (most thermally conductive) non-metal paste will be the most effective regardless of application (cpu or gpu). As far as I've seen personally, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut is still the most conductive, so I use it exclusively. It did dry up in my Razer Blade after a year but I just quickly cleaned and repasted with a little thicker amount and it's happy again.

I really like how this case looks, and want to make a super overkill dual system build in one but I'm having trouble rationalizing a use for one enthusiast rig and one mainstream rig in the same case, aside from people who stream their gaming sessions. What other circumstances would this make any sense? Money is not an object here, just trying to come up with some practical excuse to convince myself to plan out a build and save up for whatever it will require.

It started gunking up my loop after 2 days and changed from sterling silver to a dull blue. PrimoChill just sent me two more bottles, and two bottles of a newer cleaning / prep fluid to run to try and get Vue to work in my loop. They said to clean the gunk out, run dw with Dawn dish soap for a few hours with the loop hot /warm then flush, refill and add the new cleaning fluid for a day, flush again, dry, then refill with Vue and hope for a miracle. I'll try it this weekend.

Not super loud, I can't hear it over the in-game music but like I said when actually gaming it doesn't seem to heat up all that much. So I guess I can just try pushing it a little faster with higher voltage until it refuses to boot, isn't stable enough to pass stress tests, or finally gets too hot? Not a ton of money per se, just at a point where I have decent income and no big expenses so I figured might as well go all out while I can afford to. Gotcha, that makes sense. I think the 1200w PSU is ok (it's running through a UPS and load has never been above about 850w on the UPS), and I got some thicker gauge Cablemod power cables but the board circuitry itself could still end up as a weak link. Thought about upgrading to x299 but the gaming performance on them is worse than my 6900k for the most part, I guess due to the L2 cache vs L3 cache - Broadwell E has a lot more L2 and less L3.

no... still learning. I think I know but would rather someone who definitely knows teach me.

I think my rig is just about complete and just figured I would ask the experts here - as far as a 24/7 overclock, what is/are the factors that determine what you can ultimately push your system to? I asked about voltage before because my 4.5 gHz on the 6900k required about 1.40-1.42 volts to be stable for daily use, but the CPU never gets super hot with anything I do (water cooling setup seems to be very overkill), which got me wondering if I could push it more up to some other voltage level as long as the temps are fine? Or... is 1.4v about as high as Broadwell-E can safely run, and anything higher would kill the CPU quickly even though it's not heating up? As a quick summary, I've got an x99 monoblock on the 6900k and motherboard, full blocks on 2 Titan V's and two thick 480mm radiators with 3000rpm Noctua industrial PPC fans, fan profile is set to quiet in the BIOS IIRC. With full GPU/CPU stress tests I can get things to warm up a bit but the cards never rise above about 37-40 C, and I have not personally seen the CPU above I believe 63 C, all temps are lower during normal use like gaming. What do you guys think?