MTGKING

Thanks, I honesty didn't even know there was a car audio section lol.

I want to to power them with something near maximum RMS though. When they are connected to the car's AMP, you can hear the distortion. That is why I just want a seperate AMP. Plus I bought them for louder bass, and I'm not really getting that as it is. Thanks for helping me btw guys.

The problem is that i still have all of the original speakers wired up to my car. The 4 new ones are extra. I basically just want to know a good amp for them.

I bought 2x Kicker DS60 6.5" speakers and 2x Kicker DS693 6x9" Speakers, and I can't find a good amp to match with their RMS. The 6.5s have a rms of 60 watts, and the 6x9s have a RMS of 90 watts. I need suggestions on the best way to wire them. They replaced my front door and rear 6x9s, but the factory amp in my 2015 Nissan Altima is way to weak to power them. Thanks:D

Wow, thanks for the in depth explanation. I guess the sweet spot for me is on the cheap side lol. You've helped me more than any other person on this forum btw, so thanks:D

Okay, thanks. I'm probably only going to run the thing on full blast like a couple minutes per week, so hopefully I'll be okay. So what actually causes the huge price difference. Is it just the brand or what?

Thanks so much for the help. I have a blacked out 2010 mitsubishi lancer btw So why would I pay almost twice as much for an amp that has very similar specs to a $200 one? I understand that cheaper amps are not quite as good, but what specifically would warrant me to buy the more expensive one?

Ok, thanks so much. I do still have a couple questions though. So, I'm still kind of new to car audio, hence my presence in this forum, and I am a little confused about subwoofers power draw. So are subs exactly like PCs in the fact that having a power supply/amp with way more power than needed is what you want? In other words, would buying an 8000 watt amp potentially cause any problems when powering a much smaller rms sub?

lol, thanks. Yeah, I'll be getting a high output alternator of some sorts too in the the next few weeks. So that amp is a good choice though as far as power goes? Also, any suggestions about what to do for the alternator? Thanks again

Alright, so the sub that i've decided on is the Orion HCCA152 15" HCCA Series 2 Ω. I've been looking at amps for awhile and I have yet to find any good answers to what I should buy and why. I know you get what you paid for, but I do still have a budget. I'm thinking around $200 to $400. Is the Soundstream TA1.2000D Tarantula 2000W Class-D Monoblock a good choice, or do you guys have a better suggestion? I'm basically looking for the amp with the best price to performance ratio. Thanks:)

ahhh good point. Unless it was a dry fire.

It still wouldn't be under load all 24 of those hours though.

Yeah, i'm almost tempted to actually try getting one just to see what I actually get. I mean if Ebay will refund me for getting a falsely advertised product, I have nothing to lose. Then again, is it worth the hassle?

I'm not one of the scammers, I was just wondering what's going on. And I didn't know you couldn't post ebay links. sorry about that

I see