flibberdipper

God I cannot stress enough how much I hate people that bring .doc/.docx files for me to print. The formatting is almost always COMICALLY incorrect, and if I send them back home to convert it to a PDF lo and behold the formatting is absolutely perfect every single time. It's also just nice being able to secure PDFs reasonably well. I just filled out a job application (entirely within Acrobat!) and exported my resume from Word into a PDF, and in both cases I made them conform to a standard which almost guarantees that they are not modifiable by anyone. Doesn't super matter for I'm doing sure, but it is still very nice to have that option.

Usually they're either held in by satanic plastic clips or are screwed in from the bottom side of the board.

My experience with X58 is extremely limited (even though I have an X58 Sabertooth and a P6T Deluxe I just haven't been bothered to mess with yet), but here is what I've come up with so far. Make sure your BIOS is up to date. Obviously earlier BIOSes can have some kinks that aren't worked out yet so we can't rule that out as an issue. Being an early DDR3 platform of course we can't rule that out. This is from the EVGA forums and a help article so it might be slightly different for our ASUS boards, but the suggestion there was making sure that the Memory Low Gap setting is at AUTO instead of 3G or whatever else there is. Unfortunately I don't have a spare PSU to pull either of my boards out to take a look, but hopefully ASUS did things in a similar manner. My only final suggestion is to just repeatedly fuck with it and see what happens. I know my X79 Sabertooth was being kind of a bitch with RAM and I just ended up repeatedly moving sticks around and eventually it decided to work.

I never said it makes sense for them to do so, I said it would be nice to see. No matter how you split it, modern Macs kinda fuck for gaming (ignoring how hilariously cost prohibitive it is for RAM upgrades), and I know a fair few people in my own personal life that would 100% go Mac-only if our favorite games at least worked on our Macs. Obviously a small sample size, but I'm sure it is a fairly common theme since they're getting reeeeeal good again.

I would love to see Valve come out with something Proton-esque so that more Steam games would work on it. I know it probably won't happen but I'm going to keep my hopes up.

Keychron K8 Pro, Gateron G Yellow Pro 3.0s, and a Glorious keycap set. Overall really love the keyboard and the sound/feel I've got going, but the south-facing LED thing kinda sucks when it comes to these keycaps that I otherwise really love. I have the backlight all the way up and there's so little light coming through that they may as well be solid caps (the dark shot is actually harder to see IRL). Unfortunately finding a nice set that doesn't have some gaudy ass gamer font is insanely difficult and this was the only option I seem to recall finding that ticked all of the boxes, minus having a south-LED friendly design.

I had a magnetized Pittsburgh screwdriver set (big/small phillips, big/small flathead, and little stubby versions of the big ones) and it served me very well for like 6-7 years doing PC retardation. And the flatheads have been used as prybars waaaaaaaay more than they have been used as screwdrivers, I'll tell you that much right now. They're still generally fine, the big phillips is a little wallered out and the magnetization is gone from all of them, but they're not unusable anymore.

Microcenter might have just been trying to get you to go "name brand" if that makes sense. Not all cables are created equally and so on. Which I guess makes sense, you can get ones from Monoprice for a smidge less than that, actually, and at least then it comes from a company that will usually put out a consistent product.

I've got a 15 Pro Max and the only thing I'm not super thrilled with is the fact that the closest it can focus is still pretty damn far away, but I understand that's just what you're stuck with thanks to the sensor size. It's still less buggy than my 13PM that, for whatever reason, wasn't able to switch between cameras during video recording even after several factory resets... so that alone makes me happy. Action button is also lowkey pretty dope.

I would be incredibly surprised if it were anything other than bad/no thermal paste.

Kinda just sounds like you need to take it apart and put some decent thermal paste on it.

Regardless of the version of iOS or watchOS whatever device is running, no matter how you split it the iPhone 8 will be 7 years old this year. That is an absolute eternity in technology time, and realistically it's due for a replacement at this point even if it does do whatever she wants just fine. insert smartass comment about consumerism here

A new side panel exhaust and M.2 screws for the mighty sleeper. It's a lot quieter than it was with the 212 EVO fan, and now the SSD isn't held down by electrical tape and VHB. Really love how the Pure Wings 3's look, something about the boxy frame is just hot.

As far as I'm aware there isn't a way to use the LEDs to see a state of charge, other than the active player light blinking rapidly every 30 seconds? when it's low.

Another easy step I'm surprised nobody else mentioned: just try rebooting your router. My Nighthawk R7000 used to have a thing where once a month it'd drop to 100Mbps and I'd have to reboot it to get back up to 1Gbps.

Now that my 1070 is retired, I finally got replacement fans for it. Up until now it's just had a pair of 92mm Sensflow fans strapped to it.

PWM splitters should always omit the RPM signal on all but the "primary" fan. It serves no purpose and I'm sure it would absolutely piss the motherboard off.

I've never actually used it on ours as a "persistent" cache, but if they cache the flattened output from Acrobat or whatever that could be very useful. There are some jobs I print at work where flattening the fuckin thing and performing the initial print takes FOREVER but then after that it's smooth sailing due to it being cached on the hard drive. The problem starts if I have to make another copy of it for whatever reason, then I'm stuck waiting on it to flatten and print like 3 pages at a time.

You have to download Aura or use one of those third-party programs I can't remember the name of. I have a Gigabyte board and a Strix 2080 and that's how I control my card's RGB.

Yup, just make sure you bend the wings back out otherwise they're not gonna stay in.

You can just push the pins out and rearrange them as you need to. Done it a million times to those damn Dell 5-pin fans.

If I'm not mistaken the 6700XT bests the 4060 usually, let alone the 3060, as long as you're not doing RT.

On Windows? Not really. I see tons of PCs come in of varying age ranges with (typically) 4, 8, and 12GB configurations. The 4GB ones are always DOG slow, even though some of them are only a year or two old and would otherwise be fine with more RAM. 8GB (or I guess technically 6GB, but that doesn't exist with modern desktops or laptops) is really the lowest one would want to go, especially with Windows 11. Modern Windows 11 tries to idle at like 4-5GB depending on how much shitware there is. When I got this laptop, after everything was settled in and it had time to calm down the lowest I ever saw RAM go was 5.2GB, and after a clean install of 11 I managed to shed anywhere from half to a full gig on that, depending how it feels that particular day.