Aereto_Compuru

Krita is my secondary, though something I don't rely too much when I have both raster and vector layers that need to be used to avoid making the item looked more of a JPG bit crushed portrait than a vector art that never distorts no matter how much it's been shrunk and stretched. DaVinci Resolve Studio immediately violates the $250 rule. We're trying to replace WIndows, and that alone would make me have second thoughts on the project, and I don't find Humble Bundle to ever offer such a software (which is how I got Vegas Pro and ignore potentially better editors due to lean operations). I hope the free version actually either meets or surpasses in terms of functionality. I don't play multiplayer games that have anti-cheat, though Steam with Proton should make my Steam Library still playable. I have 2 Raspberry Pi of differing generations. The ethernet cabling is not yet available at this time, so I can't make any implementation attempts for a working VPN. I don't use passwords and instead use server-generated certificates. Tried GIMP before, and I ended up fighting with it more than I was doing work that it felt like the open source competitor to photoshop than an 'actual' art software like Krita or Corel Painter (which is also installed in the primary build) when working on model textures. I just find that Clip Studio Paint is exceptional in concept art. There is a particular catch about the drive recovery process: It contains every critical data in all 6 drives that must be transferred, and the storage device is NTFS and has about 6TB worth of really compressed backup courtesy of Macrium Reflect. Once the transition is done, those files have to be reconnected back to the community, because there are severe consequences of redownloading all of them that it won't just be me that's going to be affected. As I have said, I keep in sync with a lot of work, and minor changes pushed by the creators also affect my stored archives through the torrent swap. Because of Macrium Reflect, I can transfer what was in the recovery at the file level if I decide to go to Windows 10. It's just that I need be particularly careful when I connect those files to the torrent for recognition and continued service. FreeBSD won't do any good if I have build a separate system for it. Like I said, no room for partitioning, all ports filled, so I can't add any more drives. The planned build to replace my current one will be in a fixed, immobile location, because there will be a liquid cooling infrastructure that goes out of the case and into a heat exchange system. But in the current state of things, I have nothing in my fleet that can simulate the environment of my primary build, especially when I am out of spare drives that can roughly prototype said simulated environment. WIndows 7 that is carrying all the important things, and I am the one managing the active directory throughout the PCs that I have authority over, and not the PCs that are linked for data or remote access purposes.

I would have kept XP and its install disc 20 years ago, personally, but I was not in the authority to do so. I actually tried to virtualize XP and 7 with sample games as my first project before the actual transition project. Ubuntu if I recalled. Resulted in objective failure when PCIe passthrough just doesn't seem to work to test the instance with a discrete GPU. I guess 2022 is still a Linux fail in the meantime (SteamOS evaluation pending).

It's 2022 and I am looking back at my failed Linux transition project, which distros from Ubuntu to Arch failed to pass mission-critical tasks back in 2017, at which I purged all pattitions and Windows 7 is the Winner Takes All survivor of the project. If people are still saying good things about Linux distros, this is test if they are good or not for my use case. It became mildly infuriating to spend $200 just to get the same functionality in Windows 7 Ultimate (License key provided back in my university days), and even then by using my secondaries and tertiaries among my computer inventory, I find Windows 10 to be worse functionally than even Vista at its current state, making it impossible to run with the same efficiency that the i7 6700 will suffer once I subject it to the real workloads in a windows 10 environment. Upgrading to Windows 10 at the time would result in software and unacceptable data losses as I have tested from non-critical PCs Considering paying off $51,000 in student loans loans, $200 does not justify the headache that is Windows 10 that keeps breaking critical software every update and make me waste internet data cap fixing things. (Hence why Windows 10 is more unstable than 7 contrary to what people say, and that's the Pro version compared to the even more unstable Home version that has been my tech support nightmare since its existence) I've been significantly speaking against Linux since they can't really solve problems without having a college degree in Computer Science, particularly with extremely diverse roles my build has been subjected to, including ones I can't really mention in detail. To put it simply, I am going to need a distro that can replace the role the Windows 7 Ultimate the master PC of the fleet has been performing. In short, all storage device ports are populated with a maximum storage capacity of 12 TB. The myriad of roles necessitated having mostly powerful hardware in a single build instead of having multiple builds that waste more power and space doing so, especially with an RX 6900XT to perform non-gaming tasks as part of my game development projects and CAD experimentation If the replacement software exceeds $250, the project is dead before it starts (again), and recurring costs are under zero-tolerance policy. Windows counts as recurring because of intentional obsolescence, especially when Microsoft decided to go start replacing 10 with 11, which doesn't work with 32-bit software as far as I researched. The CPU would be replaced in the future to be able to keep up with additional duties.

With the possibility of AM5 being in the next year or two, and having the ASUS TUF 6900XT, the plans to build a case and watercooling loop is slowly being worked on. Due to the card I have on hard, the waterblock conversion is currently limited to EKWB. I have taken note that coolant concentrates are becoming more available than the more reliable silver + PT Nuke, but because the loop I drafted, what may work for their cases may end up destroying the whole loop, waterblock and all. I am asking for everyone's input on the coolant mixes, but I can provide the details about the loop draft. The draft is based from my previous thread regarding loops and fittings. Build planned to be in a custom-built case and loop extending beyond the case. Expecting case to use wood as base construction material. Build expected to be a permanent fixture, making tubing replacements a challenge in event of precipitates, and requires coolant replacement in the span of years than months. CPU and GPU share the same loop, but CPU is the first to receive the coldest point of the water. Build expected to run 24/7 under multiple tasks, including multiple game server hosting while 3D Modeling or Audio/Video Editing. 2 pumps are planned for redundancy. Build case interior expected to use only 200mm fans for intake and exhaust for both motherboard and storage compartments. Radiators, Reservoir, and 2 pumps placed in a separate platform, significantly increasing loop coolant volume. Build planned to be in an small closet room with windows on one side; AC units are not allowed due to historic house, and expected heat contribution with pc case mounted radiators in the market may result in heating the entire floor to 90+ F in daytime summer if the door is left open while sunlight contributes to overall floor heat in certain hours. Soft temper Copper hardline tubing with 14mm OD as the target diameter; a hardline tubing cutting and bending kit is purchased in anticipation without the need for heat guns for soft copper tubing. .999 silver coil in inventory to affix in the the reservoir. An automotive transmission cooler, fin and tube model/low fin density, is used for outdoor passive cooling in cold hours while pc radiator(s) with 140mm fans perform indoor active cooling in hot hours (or normalize coolant temperature in freezing hours). Making sure the internal plumbing is copper and the fittings are brass or nickel is my responsibility, as does adding any necessary insulation to resist freezing. The radiators inner tubing would need to be flushed and protected in some way. EKWB offers Nickel waterblocks for the graphics card in question. Have yet to find alternatives. Nickel fittings are more prevalent than Brass. Coolant concentrate significantly diluted by distilled water due to large expected loop volume, resulting in higher costs buying premix or concentrate coolants in comparison to the PT Nuke + Silver Coil solution. Slim radiators are considered for the active cooling platform, while taking advantage of cost savings. There are almost no transparent components to be used in the loop. Plexi waterblocks have a greater risk of cracking or stress fractures than acetal. Copper tubings are opaque, and the reservoir is effectively unexposed to sunlight at any time. I have yet to purchase the waterblocks because of the coolant conflict, not to mention EK CryoFuel taken note as having issues that result in precipitates and residues forming in waterblocks.

That's 4D chess thinking right there.

I can also offer a larger capacity option with a lower SSD size to 500GB and add a HDD for games that have short load times, typically common in indie games, and whatever appdata or non-game files that would otherwise take up the more precious SSD space to keep the OS running responsively and run games worth shortening loads drastically.

Banned for failing the elusive target mission.

I would find soft tubing and pure distilled water to be of use when I am making test runs on a system and performing flushes, though I would start moving on to more permanent hardline considering the external radiator would be affixed to wooden plywood with insulation sandwiched and replaces a window spot. All components would have to be flushed at first use, then primed in pure distilled water to flush the whole system with the tubings. I drafted additional planning between using 1 or 2 pumps, and had to take account as to where should the drain and fill locations be designated. The idea of redundancy was brought up, so I took that into account while planning and drafting. I can't move forward into implementation planning without a liquid-cooled GPU, and because the reference cards are considered no longer in production that just adding a waterblock is near impossible at this point, I would have to settle with Powercolor Liquid Devil 6900 XT. I could use some feedback on how many PC case radiators and high pressure I need to cool both a 6900 XT and 5900X in a single line. Instead of putting them in the same case as the PC, I would build a separate platform for active cooling and the pumps. I checked the pump operating temperatures, and the D5's spec indicates safe tolerance up to 50 C, which meant that putting the pump at the top and acting as a primary pressure flow to the radiator is out of the question, as I would risk heating the pump above safe temperature during heavy loads. For now, I have the time to refine my concept planning. Implementation planning is where I start putting the hard measurements into account when purchasing the necessary wiring and tubing. The current plans assume the windows to be renovated retain their window size, and there is no certainty I can place a networking cable mount and the networking cable running all the way to the basement in the walls on its own during the floorboard renovation. I am working on one section of the plan at a time so I don't overwhelm myself in the information crunch. There times when the PC itself is idle or just focusing on its server related tasks like torrents to synchronize my data, or hosting dedicated game servers for multiple games. I put up the draft for the dedicated pump and active cooling platforms. I may as well use the empty vertical space while still able to minimize potential leak direction as much away from any electrical circuits as possible, but that's only done in implementation planning. I would be more concerned with winter freezing the water and damaging the nearby tubing and the radiator itself, and humidity doesn't cause leaks, but allows condensation at higher dew points, which should not be a problem when automotive radiators either have exposed aluminum fins, or powder coated aluminum (at slight penalty to its thermal conductivity), and essentially built for water exposure when vehicles are in wet/humid climates, whether or not it is in use. That being said, water has a great thermal capacity and decent thermal conductivity as a liquid. It wouldn't take out as much heat as what copper heatpipes or even thermosiphons would, but it is good in averaging temperatures, and especially when winter hits below freezing point that the pump(s) have to start running at full speed to keep temps above freezing, and shut off the active cooling fans. With those considerations, I may need some guidance on temperature monitoring and automatic pump and active cooling fan speed adjustments based on rulesets. I may as well consider the placements of the thermometer probes. As for the monitoring, I feel that belongs in a different topic that require a different set of expertise. The new sets of drafts are placed in the OP for convenience.

That's really valuable information to take account. I know my limits, and 110 feet of tubing is well beyond what I am planning. The whole system is only restricted to one room: The tubing goes beyond the PC case and through a window for climate-based passive cooling. In other words, the tube-fin radiators I found in Amazon would be insufficient to passively dissipate heat from the passing volume? A weatherproof fan would become mandatory according to your feedback. Stacked plate air coolers would be worse at the passive cooling job because of them operating at high pressure airflow. With given circumstances, I am not confident in my skills to cut into the water line that goes to the water heating unit and run the line to the attic all the way there. The D5 pump from EK would have to handle the whole line. If I want it redundant, I would end up using splitter fittings, valves, and 2 D5s running simultaneously. But that also means few other design considerations: Drop the resevoir/pump combo and just get the D5 pumps, with the resevoir directly above the pumps for easier system filling. A splitter to fill both pumps or use the resevoir and have 2 outlet fittings. Flow rate may not be as easily measured with two pumps providing parallel pressure gradients. A PWM splitter is necessary if the motherboard has a pump PWM. I didn't go with plastic tubing or rubber because of the plasticizers leaching into the system and shortening both the tubing and fluid service life and increasing cleaning requirements of the waterblocks and radiators. I am made aware of it from years of gathering information and post-service assments from multiple watercooling communities. Replacing any tubing is a critical project failure; a preventable mistake. I realized that the radiator won't even be able to passively cool in summer, so I have to work a hybrid approach, and that is where just buying a high airflow ATX case is more acceptable, but the radiator placements in case design have long been a reason why I haven't started watercooling earlier. If I stick with a custom case, those PC cooling radiators are going to have their own separate area, away from the case. High pressure fans turn on if the water volume temperature is above a threshold, and the radiators would just normalize with the room temperature if the water is cold. The fans stay off automatically in winter, since the volume temperature is below threshold. The pump, however, is dependent on two thresholds, which reaches maximum flow rate if the temperature is in either extreme, and enter reduced flow when all components are idle and the temperature is within acceptable range. Because at the end of the day, if the PC ends up dumping waste heat into a room, and when the room warms up and opening the windows also keeps the room summer hot, the fins can't dissipate heat efficiently unless MORE electricity is spent on fans and A/C. This PC build is not worth the AC or HVAC and the running cost baggage that comes with. We are not here to keep throwing money at engineering problems on a monthly basis. This system is supposed to reduce operating costs and the PC internal ambient temps closer to ambient room temps.

It will be only an external radiator. The heat from the CPU and GPU will be directed to the radiator outside the house for passive fluid temperature regulation. A whole house distribution is not feasible when winter months can produce a drastic difference in temperature. The external radiator would freeze the tubing, and antifreeze may affect fluid properties, especially the thermal capacity from water. A pre-mix would sound reasonable, though distilled water is still to be used for the leak test and flushing. On the other hand, I would have to use a significant amount of premixed fluid since I am directing tubing out of the case and into outside, where the external radiator will dump the heat. Anti-corrosives do not seem to be an issue so long as I stick with copper, brass, and nickel plated parts, and I would consider some biocide since the system is mostly opaque, save for a clear GPU and CPU, waterblock, and reservoir. Fungi may be a greater consideration with the mostly dark environment. Other considerations were adding a radiator to the case, but considering that I am planning to build a PC that's going to run 24/7 as a workstation/gaming, the CPU will consistently be a main heat source, while the GPU produces the most heat when I play games on it. The case will be in a room separate from where I put my seat and monitors, and have not estimated the length of DP cables and USB extentions to run and reach the monitors. There will be an external radiator to use as the system's passive cooling, taking one of the window spots, and automotive transmission finned-tube radiators are compact enough to make construction strictly from the inside. I also have to make sure the cooler has copper piping with aluminum fins, though weather exposure means I need to draft on how to install the cooler and the window panel mount. The intended location is in the third floor closet that no one uses and planned to be renovated, considering to place an ethernet mounting on the floor once old flooring is replaced. The external radiator is intended to take account of the seasonal climate. The additional volume would help with thermal capacity, but I would have to use the best PC watercooling pumps available to keep its flow rate appropriate to the situation. It would have to increase its pump speed if the liquid is getting too hot or in danger of freezing. I had plans to draft more, but workload has increased recently.

I have been mulling this over during my work hours, but may as well get some input from others. If it were not for the supply situations, I would consider buying a RX 6900 XT and possibly Ryzen 6000 series in the future. Without regard to feasibility or availability, I would consider a liquid cooling solution, but I am not satisfied with the resulting heat distribution if I settle for case radiator and fans. Planning for long term, copper are to be used as hardline tubing. Distilled water instead of most pre-mixed coolants is used as the entire system is mostly opaque and avoid precipitates causing blockage. The CPU and GPU are connected in a single liquid cooling system, with the motherboard if it has its own water block. With 24/7 operations in both workstation and gaming alternating roles, PC radiators may as be all over the case or have its own array with several high pressure case fans that may as well be a waste of electricity dumping out heat. I decided for a more conserving approach with using the minimum amount of fans with thermal management in mind. This is where the puzzle comes in. I considered looking into automotive parts and found that there are radiators and coolers with fittings I could use to connect to the line. I looked into stacked plate oil coolers and the tube and fin coolers typically used for transmissions, considering that stacked plate offers better dissipation with air pressure into the fins while tube and fin can cool passively at windless days. However, they use AN thread measurements while PC uses G. G 1/4" is apparently a common fitting in use. Typically a large fan appropriate to the radiator size comes with it, but that is a separate matter to solve. One of the coolers I considered uses AN-6 fittings, equivalent to 3/8"-18 NPT standard. With copper tubings, I am going to need advice in connecting an AN-6 radiator to the rest of the system that uses G 1/4" on the assumption I use utility grade copper tubing with 1/4" OD. The reservoir and pump would still be the same considering the liquid volume, but it is the placement that concerns me. If I face the pump towards the radiator, heated water is in the reservoir, which tends to evaporate more readily, but I can push water turbulence into the radiator that has internal agitators, and have the drainage and splitter connected to the pump. Facing the pump towards the PC would see pressure directed to the CPU water block first, leaving the radiator to work with flow rate being pulled towards the pump, but considering that the pump is typically placed at the upper exit of the radiator, the drain valve and splitter would be separate and stay on the lowest part of the line. Again, all of this hinges on if I have the CPU and GPU on hand before I move on to the implementation. I would take soft tubing if I am testing the components first if they are working before doing the rest of the work provided they have the included fittings. Distilled water will still be used in the testing phase to flush and cycle any impurities. Drafts during work are attached, and more may be added.

As much as I have been hearing about graphics cards prices going down, I would consider my options when time opportunities arise. I doubt that workstation cards would see change when gaming cards are most affected by the cryptocurrency mining. However I would like some opinion or input on my consideration to take a workstation card. I am planning to take Unreal Engine for a spin, use Blender to experiment with 3D modeling and animation, and possibly have GIMP or a better alternative provide textures. I have a RX 480 with ample VRAM to flex, but I need input if having a WX 5100 would benefit more from the process despite that the monitor may not stand to be fully utilized with more color detail like the expensive 10-bit color monitors. My research suggest that they would excel in rendering and processing at lower electrical usage, while I have the gaming graphics card to play and playtest games with. I thought about the WX 4100 (a half height card), but WX 5100 has the performance that balances out the cost while having similar features to the WX 7100 except its processor count. I only have 1 monitor to use, while my PSU is enough to sustain 2 GPUs in the build on top of the other specs. As there is the usual tax filing season, vendors may take advantage by organizing sales, though I am anticipated for sales in workstation cards in the future.

This mouse refers to the Trackman Marble, an ambidextrous trackball, not its non-ambidextrous M570. As have used this mouse for well over 8 years (1st lasted 7-8 years, 2nd only had over 1 year), I may as well pass down what I know about this mouse. Characteristics Build Quality Repair/Disassemly Notes:

Hopefully that would not happen, as RMAs can be a serious problem. The most recent one related to the problem is last month for the Mx Master. The 2S costs full price, so I am uncertain if it is worth the extra.

Just 1 paycheck period will cover the costs. My research on the Master MX came up one major design flaw: The scroll wheel can get stuck at fast-scroll mode, rendering the scroll wheel as uncontrollable as it is useless until I take it apart and fix it. If that happens during important use, there often times that I will not field service them in less than 10 seconds.