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Posts posted by xGGAx
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your dad is right, get a 7700k and z270 if you can. Even the 7600k struggles in games like battefield 1. If you dont want to overclock, then just get the regular 7700 and a H270 board.
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Yes, there is some delay, more than usb keyboards. You see, wireless technology is half duplex since the medium is shared. In other words, your wireless keyboard can send or receive data (keystrokes) but not both at the same time (this applies to any wireless technology, wifi, RF, bluetooth). Plus, most wireless keyboards dont come with anti ghosting or n-key rollover, so you might experience even more delays, or keys not registering.
Try a wired keyboard, but if you must use wireless, get a better quality model. That k330 is really low end.
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try opening your flash drive in linux. If it does the same thing, then the connector or the memory ilself is damaged.
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Get the NZXT S340 Elite if you can. That 1080 deserves some tempered glass.
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personally, Im loving my Seasonic x650. A tier 1 PSU, fully modular, gold rating with fanless mode.
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Read about RAID types and performance. Setting up a RAID would help a lot, but since you are using WD blacks your rig would be loud as hell.
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are you 100% sure this is wifi related? have you tried a wired connection?
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it should work, but if it doesn't, just try the registry setting.
a second option would be getting a motherboard with ps2 ports. My z170A still has 1 ps2 port and a pci slot for whatever reason.
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it could be an issue with your settings. In your bios, disable legacy support for keyboard and mouse. Some motherboards also have a "compatibility" setting, set this to "auto", or "on"
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I really like the new corsair 460x and 570x cases, but they dont have 5.25 bays anymore. Im old school and I like having an optical drive or a card reader in my case.
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in that case your ups might be faulty
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how old? full optiplex dells with crt monitors can draw more than 500w easily. your ups is rated up to 420w
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try disconnecting stuff from the battery backup. Your psu might be getting overloaded and shutting down to protect itself.
Also, if your pc is drawing too much power( above 700va), it will shut down the ups no matter what.
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ok so the battery backup in the ups is not kicking in for some reason. Some ups have a "reset" feature, try doing a couple of those resets and see if the problem persists.
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Use windows refresh. All settings, programs and files will be removed safely and I doubt someone will bother making a deep scan to recover them
https://www.onmsft.com/news/windows-10-reset-refresh-windows-10-installation-better-performance -
23 minutes ago, Billy_Mays said:
That's in USD not snow pesos
$100 USD should be around $130CAD I think?
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5 minutes ago, revsilverspine said:
by testing the psu outside the case do you mean you hotwired itor tested it under load?
since the problem got fixed, odds are the psu was the source of the coil whine
hotwired only, fan spins, no vibration or anything out of the ordinary (I read that some coil whine is caused by bad wiring inside the psu, but that doesn't seem to be the case either)
7 minutes ago, TrigrH said:Thats how it works, combinations of PSUs and GPUs can cause GPU coil whine, sometimes one or both are at fault.
If the PSU was the one with the coil whine then id put that shit in the bin.
Also seasonic X-series are amazing units, that PSU should last you a good 10 years.
damn I wanted to build a mini itx system with it...
8 minutes ago, W-L said:That can occur at times with different PSU or even different ones of the exact same model, as it can be a combination of that exact PSU and GPU that can cause coil whine to occur. It's why it's basically just up to luck most times if they cause coil whine or not.
any particular reason why it started happening after months of use?
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I built my pc about a year ago and never had a problem until three months ago.
I started getting a random coil whine that would last anywhere from 30 seconds to a minute or two. At first, thought it was my gpu, but after some monitoring it didn't seem to be the cause. I was thinking that maybe my psu was doing that under load because it always happened while playing battlefield 1(but i couldn't replicate the issue, it was indeed totally random).
I had a EVGA 500B before, which is plently for my current build. Still, I wanted a better power efficiency so I grabbed a Seasonic x650 about a week ago.
Installed new psu, no coil whine. Even after long playing sessions. So I want to hear your theories about this.
By the way, I tested the EVGA PSU out of the case and it seems fine. -
in that case you should consider something like This G.Skill mouse with adjustable height and weight.
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2 minutes ago, JamesHewitt said:
I'd probably go with a palm grip but i'd need quite a large mouse, the m65 looks quite small?
not really, I have "normal sized" hands for a 6' tall guy and it feels a bit large.
I have a fingertip grip so maybe that has something to do with it. -
5 minutes ago, Lethalmonk said:
Its not about what mouse has the best features, its about which mouse style has the most comfort that tailors to your preference then choose based on what you need
this^
you have to consider other things like your grip and what kind of games you play the most -
Consider any of the Corsair strafe variants
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823816040&cm_re=strafe-_-23-816-040-_-Product
about the mouse, the harpoon should do just fine
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826816067
Open box 7700k
in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
Posted
I wouldn't take the risk If I were you. Back in the day( when the first core 2 quads came out), lots of ppl were buying processors just to see how far they would overclock.
The thing is, they pushed the chip too far and damaged it, then asked for a refund.
Most stores don't check if the item still works, they only care if there is no "visible damage" and put it back on the shelf as open box for 1/2 the price or whatever.
If you want to take that risk then go ahead.