DailyProcrastinator

Clicky Switch Round-Up
Click Clack THOCK! 
 
 
 
 
Intro:
 
The base idea of testing out a bunch of clicky switches is to expand my switch repertoire. Clickys are not my favorite, as I do not particularly like the excessive click noise. I find the click sound already had from a tactile switch is satisfying enough, and for the most part all the clickys I have tried are linears that require very little actuation force, which is already my least favorite switch. This all said there is variation, and trying something different is fun and I can learn along the way!
     
For this test I will compare 4 different clicky switches, naturally crowing my favorite, and giving my thoughts as I conclude my comparison. 
 
 
Test Material:
 
For this test I will be using my KDB67Lite R1 (now in R2), a budget 65% layout with 5-pin hot-swap sockets, ABS case with a polycarbonate back plate, and I have lubed the stabs with TriboSys 3204.
 
 
The 4 different Clickys I have gone with are:
     
Gateron Blue - MX Blue Clones, this is the standard Clicky switch that most think of in terms of Clickys, 55g Operating | 60g Bottom | 5-pin | $0.20 / switch KBDFans


Gateron Green - MX Green Clones, these offer a heavy actuation force with a tactile feel, 65g Operating | 75g Bottom | 5-pin | $0.20 \ switch KBDFans


Kailh Box White - Likely one of the most popular Clicky switches, sometimes referred to as a Box Blue as it features similar characteristics to the Blue, but with a Box stem, 50g Operating | 55g Bottom | 3-pin | $0.38 \ switch KBDFans

 
Kailh Box Thick Jade - Box Jades, or Box Thick Clicks, feature the same spring as the Box White, but with a thicker clickbar, creating a distinguished tactile feel, 50g Operating | 60g Bottom | 3-pin | $0.42 \ switch KBDFans

 
 
Sound Comparison:
 
This is a sound comparison of the switches held in a acrylic case switch tester with blank caps, none of the switches will be lubed for any of the completed tests.
 
Gateron Blue:
 

MX Blue Switch Test.mp4  
Gateron Green:
 

MX Green Switch Test.mp4  
Kailh Box White:
 

Box White Switch Test.mp4  
Kailh Box Thick Jade:
 

Box Jade Switch Test.mp4  
* Amplified audio by 28db * (Audio recorded with a Blue Snowball Mic, at approximately 15cm from the switch)
 
 
Type Test:
 
Gateron Blue:
 

MX Blue Type Test.mp4  
Gateron Green:
 

MX Green Type Test.mp4  
Kailh Box White:
 

Box White Type Test.mp4  
Kailh Box Thick Jade:
 

Box Jade Type Test.mp4  
* Amplified audio by 10db * (Audio recorded with a Blue Snowball Mic, at approximately 15cm from the keyboard)
 
 
 
Quick Thoughts on the KBD67Lite:
 
Pleasantly surprised in the value of this board. It offers a lot of features for the price, namely per-key RGB and hot-swap sockets in a 65% layout, however the main draw back would be the construction. While implemented well for an ABS case you do not get the rigidity and sturdiness of a more solid material (aluminum, steel, even wood, etc), on top of that I personally do not like polycarbonate switch plates and combined with the ABS case it gives a mushy feel that I am not a particularly huge fan of. But this also comes with the objective views of a user who prefers an aluminum case with a brass plate, so take this with a medium-sized grain of salt. 
 
For many buyers of the KBD67Lite I expect this to be their first custom mech, and for that buyer I can strongly recommend this. It is a great entry board that gets you in the market with good features and they did some things very well. I like the gasket mount design and the case foam also greatly helps overall feel. The fully QMK supported PCB is a welcome touch and the 5-pin Kailh hot-swap sockets is a must in a 2021 entry board, especially for 1st time buyers, and this is all done properly. 
 
Now I will note that R2 is now in production and brings in a wireless version as well as wired, but you lose per-key RGB for the wireless board, and it no longer comes pre-assembled, which for many is likely not an issue, but for a few buyers it could be a deal breaker. 
 
All of this for $109usd (r1) is a great deal, and while R2 is coming in at $135, I still see this an attractive option for many buyers. 
 
My one some-what significant complaint is that many of the 5-pin switches are not able to fully click into place, or a lot of force is required, so they can either fall out (not that easily though) or come out when the keycap is removed. When I contacted KBDFans they did not elaborate much other than this could be a slight variance within manufacturing and that the updated Injection molding plate in R2 vs the CNC plate in R1 should address the issue. I am not sure if this is a one off or if this is somewhat wide spread, but I could not find similar complaints . At least this is not an issue with 3-pin switches and it my opinion this has something to do with the PCB and not the plate, but only time will tell. 
 
Full review of the KBD67Lite coming soon!
 
 
Conclusion:
 
Gateron Blue - Of the 4 this comes in dead last, the 'click' is loud enough that for those who like the sound it will suffice, however the light weight actuation and feel is not of my preference. They have a scratchy feel on keystroke and when typing slower the sound of the metal leaf is not pleasant, it sounds twangy and this feels like I am scraping the bottom of the barrel. Switch preference is all about what a user likes but I don't see how this would be a favorite of anyone's, if you like clickys the next on the list is far better, it has a similar actuation weight, but improves on the main drawbacks of the MX /Gat Blue.
 
Kailh Box White - Between this and the Gat Green it was a very close call but the Box White is 3rd on my list, although objectively it is the second best switch here (will elaborate). This is everything a novel clicky switch should be, it gives off the right 'click' sound and has a similar feel to the Gat Blue however all the drawbacks of the scratchy keystroke feel and twangy sound from the leaf are not present. You get the stability of a box switch and this eliminates keycap 'wobble' making this a nice linear clicky typing experience, if that is your thing.
 
Gateron Green - As mentioned, I have some elaborating to do. The Kailh Box White is objectively the better switch, but I prefer a heavier switch, and the MX / Gat Green is just that, a heavy clicky switch with a somewhat pronounced bump in the keystroke similar to a tactile (similar to a Kailh Pro Purple, the tactile bump is not very distinguished, but it is there). And this is why my bias places it ahead of the Box White, I prefer a heavier tactile switch. Now on to the sound, it has a similar profile to the Gat Blue but it does not sound or feel as scratchy, although the scratchy feel is still somewhat present. If you like a heavier clicky switch this is a great option, although our final candidate takes the cherry.
 
Kailh Box Thick Jade - Lets take what's good about the Box White, and the Gat Green. Okay so no scratchy feel or sound, check. A nice loud pronounced 'clack', check. Stability of a box switch, check. A heavier switch with more actuation required, check. And lastly, a nice tactile bump, check-mate! This is my number one choice of the 4 tested, it is the best feeling for typing, with a very distinguished tactile bump about half-way through the keystroke, and with more actuation required vs the Box White, this nails it for me. Again I do not prefer Clicky switches over Tactile or Linear, but in terms of type feel this is without a question my number one choice of the 4 tested. 
 
To summarize, I can categorize this switch test into two easy recommendations, if you like clicky switches and prefer a linear switch, get the Box White, if you prefer tactile, get the Box Thick Jade. I will admit that there are other Box clicky switches, but these two are extremely popular for a reason. 
 
 

Clicky Switch Round-Up
Click Clack THOCK! 
 
 
 
 
Intro:
 
The base idea of testing out a bunch of clicky switches is to expand my switch repertoire. Clickys are not my favorite, as I do not particularly like the excessive click noise. I find the click sound already had from a tactile switch is satisfying enough, and for the most part all the clickys I have tried are linears that require very little actuation force, which is already my least favorite switch. This all said there is variation, and trying something different is fun and I can learn along the way!
     
For this test I will compare 4 different clicky switches, naturally crowing my favorite, and giving my thoughts as I conclude my comparison. 
 
 
Test Material:
 
For this test I will be using my KDB67Lite R1 (now in R2), a budget 65% layout with 5-pin hot-swap sockets, ABS case with a polycarbonate back plate, and I have lubed the stabs with TriboSys 3204.
 
 
The 4 different Clickys I have gone with are:
     
Gateron Blue - MX Blue Clones, this is the standard Clicky switch that most think of in terms of Clickys, 55g Operating | 60g Bottom | 5-pin | $0.20 / switch KBDFans


Gateron Green - MX Green Clones, these offer a heavy actuation force with a tactile feel, 65g Operating | 75g Bottom | 5-pin | $0.20 \ switch KBDFans


Kailh Box White - Likely one of the most popular Clicky switches, sometimes referred to as a Box Blue as it features similar characteristics to the Blue, but with a Box stem, 50g Operating | 55g Bottom | 3-pin | $0.38 \ switch KBDFans

 
Kailh Box Thick Jade - Box Jades, or Box Thick Clicks, feature the same spring as the Box White, but with a thicker clickbar, creating a distinguished tactile feel, 50g Operating | 60g Bottom | 3-pin | $0.42 \ switch KBDFans

 
 
Sound Comparison:
 
This is a sound comparison of the switches held in a acrylic case switch tester with blank caps, none of the switches will be lubed for any of the completed tests.
 
Gateron Blue:
 

MX Blue Switch Test.mp4  
Gateron Green:
 

MX Green Switch Test.mp4  
Kailh Box White:
 

Box White Switch Test.mp4  
Kailh Box Thick Jade:
 

Box Jade Switch Test.mp4  
* Amplified audio by 28db * (Audio recorded with a Blue Snowball Mic, at approximately 15cm from the switch)
 
 
Type Test:
 
Gateron Blue:
 

MX Blue Type Test.mp4  
Gateron Green:
 

MX Green Type Test.mp4  
Kailh Box White:
 

Box White Type Test.mp4  
Kailh Box Thick Jade:
 

Box Jade Type Test.mp4  
* Amplified audio by 10db * (Audio recorded with a Blue Snowball Mic, at approximately 15cm from the keyboard)
 
 
 
Quick Thoughts on the KBD67Lite:
 
Pleasantly surprised in the value of this board. It offers a lot of features for the price, namely per-key RGB and hot-swap sockets in a 65% layout, however the main draw back would be the construction. While implemented well for an ABS case you do not get the rigidity and sturdiness of a more solid material (aluminum, steel, even wood, etc), on top of that I personally do not like polycarbonate switch plates and combined with the ABS case it gives a mushy feel that I am not a particularly huge fan of. But this also comes with the objective views of a user who prefers an aluminum case with a brass plate, so take this with a medium-sized grain of salt. 
 
For many buyers of the KBD67Lite I expect this to be their first custom mech, and for that buyer I can strongly recommend this. It is a great entry board that gets you in the market with good features and they did some things very well. I like the gasket mount design and the case foam also greatly helps overall feel. The fully QMK supported PCB is a welcome touch and the 5-pin Kailh hot-swap sockets is a must in a 2021 entry board, especially for 1st time buyers, and this is all done properly. 
 
Now I will note that R2 is now in production and brings in a wireless version as well as wired, but you lose per-key RGB for the wireless board, and it no longer comes pre-assembled, which for many is likely not an issue, but for a few buyers it could be a deal breaker. 
 
All of this for $109usd (r1) is a great deal, and while R2 is coming in at $135, I still see this an attractive option for many buyers. 
 
My one some-what significant complaint is that many of the 5-pin switches are not able to fully click into place, or a lot of force is required, so they can either fall out (not that easily though) or come out when the keycap is removed. When I contacted KBDFans they did not elaborate much other than this could be a slight variance within manufacturing and that the updated Injection molding plate in R2 vs the CNC plate in R1 should address the issue. I am not sure if this is a one off or if this is somewhat wide spread, but I could not find similar complaints . At least this is not an issue with 3-pin switches and it my opinion this has something to do with the PCB and not the plate, but only time will tell. 
 
Full review of the KBD67Lite coming soon!
 
 
Conclusion:
 
Gateron Blue - Of the 4 this comes in dead last, the 'click' is loud enough that for those who like the sound it will suffice, however the light weight actuation and feel is not of my preference. They have a scratchy feel on keystroke and when typing slower the sound of the metal leaf is not pleasant, it sounds twangy and this feels like I am scraping the bottom of the barrel. Switch preference is all about what a user likes but I don't see how this would be a favorite of anyone's, if you like clickys the next on the list is far better, it has a similar actuation weight, but improves on the main drawbacks of the MX /Gat Blue.
 
Kailh Box White - Between this and the Gat Green it was a very close call but the Box White is 3rd on my list, although objectively it is the second best switch here (will elaborate). This is everything a novel clicky switch should be, it gives off the right 'click' sound and has a similar feel to the Gat Blue however all the drawbacks of the scratchy keystroke feel and twangy sound from the leaf are not present. You get the stability of a box switch and this eliminates keycap 'wobble' making this a nice linear clicky typing experience, if that is your thing.
 
Gateron Green - As mentioned, I have some elaborating to do. The Kailh Box White is objectively the better switch, but I prefer a heavier switch, and the MX / Gat Green is just that, a heavy clicky switch with a somewhat pronounced bump in the keystroke similar to a tactile (similar to a Kailh Pro Purple, the tactile bump is not very distinguished, but it is there). And this is why my bias places it ahead of the Box White, I prefer a heavier tactile switch. Now on to the sound, it has a similar profile to the Gat Blue but it does not sound or feel as scratchy, although the scratchy feel is still somewhat present. If you like a heavier clicky switch this is a great option, although our final candidate takes the cherry.
 
Kailh Box Thick Jade - Lets take what's good about the Box White, and the Gat Green. Okay so no scratchy feel or sound, check. A nice loud pronounced 'clack', check. Stability of a box switch, check. A heavier switch with more actuation required, check. And lastly, a nice tactile bump, check-mate! This is my number one choice of the 4 tested, it is the best feeling for typing, with a very distinguished tactile bump about half-way through the keystroke, and with more actuation required vs the Box White, this nails it for me. Again I do not prefer Clicky switches over Tactile or Linear, but in terms of type feel this is without a question my number one choice of the 4 tested. 
 
To summarize, I can categorize this switch test into two easy recommendations, if you like clicky switches and prefer a linear switch, get the Box White, if you prefer tactile, get the Box Thick Jade. I will admit that there are other Box clicky switches, but these two are extremely popular for a reason. 
 
 

Drop Carina 60% Build
A Fun & Easy Build with RGB Flair!
 

 
 
Intro:
 
Right now this is a really popular market segment, 60% layouts are all the rage and the Carina seems to tick all the right boxes.
     
What’s the deal with 60% layouts?
60% layouts have risen in popularity mostly due to the growth in the custom keyboard space. They are a great choice as you can enter the world of customs for a fraction of the price compared to other larger layouts, and for most users you do not lose too much functionality. This keeps things simple and minimalistic (everyone's favorite word). 
     
Why would you want this?
For a basic typist, or gamer who wants to build a custom, 60% layouts are great. Question where or not you need some additional keys like arrows or an additional column of function keys, if so look at 65%, layouts, otherwise this is the layout for you! The Carina offers many desirable ‘wants’ as well, you get hot-swap switches with all the flashy RGB you could ever want!
 
 
Why I bought this:
 
I knew this was not my ideal layout, as a 65% is already limiting for myself, however adding a simple 60% to the collection is something I wanted. And the frosted acrylic body caught my eye. The board itself is a good value option and in a competitive market segment, If anything it would be enjoyable to build and review.
 
 
Parts (USD):
 
This is another buy where the bulk of parts came from Drop. 
 
At $120 the Drop Carina feels like good value, depending on what your definition of value is (more on this in the conclusion). And the Drop Skylight series keycaps are a nice touch for a reasonable price as well. I added a white coiled cable to another order but the Carina comes with a plain white cable, so purchasing one is not required.
 
My switch of choice was something linear, and heavy. Kailh Box Heavy Dark Yellows it is! These switches are also phenomenal value, and are RGB friendly. 
 
 
My thoughts on the Drop Carina:
 
The Carina has been in my hands for a few months now. I took delivery on January 7th 2021, and I had it assembled and ready the next day! The key features for me being:
Hot swap sockets for both 3 & 5-pin switches RGB to the max, per key lighting and tasteful under glow Well designed and made acrylic casing USB-C with dual ports on both left and right, plus included white cable Easy assembly and instructions  
The PCB brings in the entire aesthetic feel with a gloss white finish, and while this goes mostly unseen, a nice touch, especially if you happen to be staring at the under glow RGB. Speaking of under glow, there is good spacing between LEDs, you get a nice full color spectrum, and great light coverage. 
 
The acrylic holds up, this has been well designed and the lighting does an excellent job shining evenly throughout the entire case. For the price I am pleased as I think for many, this would be one of the main features to pick this over other options. It has solid large rubber feet and a nice angled design.

The included stabs are boring old clip-ins, I was expecting this, but it would be easy enough to implement a superior screw in design, ultimately for this price range not a deal breaker by any means.
 
I went for the default Aluminum backplate, you can opt for Brass or Copper, but these come at an additional cost of $30 & $40 respectively, making the overall price less competitive.
 
 
Pictures:
 
As this is a hot swap board and a more compact layout it was a quick assembly process. For more thorough details on assembly check out my past review of the OLKB Preonic and upcoming KBD67Lite.

 

 

 

Mildly triggered that there is no blue 'Forward Slash' keycap included in the Drop Skylight keycap set... Oh well.
 

This is where the white PCB is noticeable as it blends in, any other color would be very noticeable.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Type Test:
 
My switch of choice was the Kailh Box Heavy Dark Yellow (linear), un-lubed, stabs lubed with TriboSys 3204.
 

Drop Carina - Box Heavy Dark Yellows Unlubed.mp4
     * Amplified audio by 10db * (Audio recorded with a Blue Snowball Mic, at approximately 15cm from the keyboard)
 
 
Worth mentioning, box switches, f#cking amazing, the stability these add to the feeling of the keys is massively noticeable. One of those things that you won’t notice until you try and have hands on experience, so this is something that I highly recommend everyone tries.
 
Which has me thinking, stem switch on Zealios?
 
 
Conclusion:
 
Overall I like the board and the features, it delivers on all fronts and other than some nitpicking on the choice of stabs, hence I have no real complaints. At least none that prevent me from recommending it.
 
For those looking at a budget custom mechanical 60% hot-swap boards, this would likely top that list. However, this segment is growing, and there is stiff competition, at the time of this review I think the biggest competitor is the KBD67Lite, a 65% layout (more keys) for $10 less, at $110usd (shipping not included), it comes in and out of stock with a wireless version also available. 

For that price the KBD67Lite has very similar features, per key RGB, an ABS case with a polycarbonate back plate, hot-swap sockets, it even address my complaints with the Carina, screw in stabs included, additionally a nice carry case. Case and backplate construction is somewhat sacrificed vs the Carina, but you get a few other features in a better layout, so when looking to buy these are options to weigh. When I ordered the Carina the 67Lite was not an option, but now it is, and I have since purchased one.

Another big competitor is the new GMMK Pro, mine has just arrived 2 days ago and I am in the process of assembly and testing, it comes in at a slightly higher price of $170usd, but the extra $50 is going to good use. You get a much more solid construction, per key RGB and 5-pin hot swap sockets remain, with the addition of a better 75% layout, and a highly coveted rotary knob. My review of that is coming soon as well, but my initial impressions are very good. It is hard not to justify the extra $50 for a more usable layout that lacks no features.
 
So while the Carina is an aesthetically pleasing board, I find that my mind now goes to other options. Within the time frame of ordering the Carina, to receiving it, a lot of new competition is now purchasable. 

Personally this is not my daily use board, as said earlier I have a hard time scraping by with anything less than a 65% layout. But otherwise, I have no reason not to recommend this board, if you have weighed your alternative options.
Drop has done a great job here, but now faces more competition than ever before.
 
 
Reviews on the KBD67Lite and GMMK Pro are soon to follow.
 

OLKB Preonic MX Rev.3 Review
New layouts are fun! (and tricky?)


 
 
Intro:
 
Lets keep this one "short" and sweet. 
 
Ortholinears, what the heck are they?
To summarize they are a full size keyboard, cut in half, trimmed down, with the keys straightened out in linear rows and columns, meaning the rows are not staggered. 
 
Why would you want this?
The main idea behind othrolinears is that your fingers should never be more than two keys away from any given key when placed on the home row. Thus reducing fatigue and stress when typing for extended periods of time. The ‘Lower’ and ‘Raise’ keys allow quick access to other key layers, meaning little functionality is lost over a full-size layout.
 
So the general idea is improved ergonomics in a compact layout. 
 
 
Why I bought this:
 
Being a bit new to the world of custom mechs, I only learned about this layout earlier this year. But I really wanted to give it a try. I knew the layout would be tricky to get used to, but the ‘Lower’ and ‘Raise’ function is what sealed the deal, if you can get that down you functionally have a full-size board on your hands.
 
Originally I placed a preorder on Drop for the Planck, which is basically the same board but without a number row. Ultimately shipping got pushed back twice, and by then the Preonic V3 was available and ready for immediate shipping, so I cancelled my Planck and got the Preonic.
 
In truth a layout with an extra row would be my first choice regardless, so I was happy it played out this way.
 
 
Parts (USD):
 
I went for the full Drop special on this.
   
My thoughts on the OLKB Preonic:
 
I now have 3+ weeks under my belt. The Preonic MX V3 kit is really good overall. Key features being:
Anodized CNC aluminum case
MX-compatible switches 
Hot-swap sockets
5-pin PCB mount switch or 3-pin plate mount
USB C w/ included cable
Underglow LED’s and user optional solder RGB LED compatible (for per key lighting)
Included stabs, screws, hex bolts + nuts, hex tool, & rubber feat 
 
The build quality of the Case is of very high quality, it feels lighter than I expected, which ultimately for a compact board that would be easy to move around is not a bad thing. But the anodized aluminum holds up even next to some more premium cases.
 
The PCB is feature rich and as far as I am concerned, of high quality, no issues to report here. The built in mini speaker is a nice touch, and hot-swap is a blessing, especially for a quick and easy build.
 
The RGB on the back of the PCB is a nice touch but ultimately unless you get the diffused acrylic case it does not do much.
 
Stabs are push-in, not screw-in (booooo), but only using a single 2U stabilizer, this is acceptable.
 
The fitment tolerance of the backplate is very good, one of the best I have dealt with so far. I suppose it would be easier with a smaller plate and case, but nonetheless I was very impressed.
 
If I am going to be extra picky, and I am. My main con is the noise the case produces when you type, there is a very subtle metal clang on some key presses (middle keys in particular). A rubber / foam gasket would completely minimize this, so I would have liked to see one included, but this is not extremely noticeable, just something I picked up on.  
 
Otherwise this kit delivers on all fronts, I really enjoy the layout, the quality of the parts is A+, and while $140 feels steep for a small layout (now on sale for $115, Planck is $100), you get good value for what you are buying. The feature rich PCB takes away from any feeling that something is missing. And with limited runs you can always expect to pay a price premium. 
 
One quick note on the Ortholinear layout. While an adjustment for typing, for gaming it is much better, ‘W’ directly above ‘S’ is actually perfect. 
 
 
Assembly process:
 
As this is a hot swap board there is not much to it. A nice little booklet is included with basic assembly instructions:
 

Once you have your switches and keycaps you are ready to build, this kit has everything else included.
 

To begin you mount your single 2U spacebar stabilizer, I lubed mine with TriboSys 3204. Then mount it into the case, and thread in the 5 screws from the bottom of the case. Optionally you can use the brass hex spacers to secure it furthermore, which I opted to do. 
 

Next mount a few switches to the plate, then to the PCB. I like to space them out so the plate is secure and aligned. 
 

Then mount the remainder of your switches. Once done you secure the plate from the top with 5 hex nuts (included tool is provided), and tadah! A prepped Preonic V3 ready for keycaps!
 
And some completed pics!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I also got the carry case for $5, as I will use this on the go I like the idea of having my keeb secured and avoiding scratches to the aluminum when possible. 
 
 
Type Test:
 
Switch of choice for this test is the Invyr Holy Panda (tactile), un-lubed. 

Preonic V3 - Holy Pandas Unlubed.mp4  
* Amplified audio by 10db * (Audio recorded with a Blue Snowball Mic, at approximately 15cm from the keyboard)
 
Stay tuned! An upcoming entry will feature the Holy Panda’s lubed vs un-lubed.
 
 
Conclusion:
 
This keeb has been an interesting one, it has taken the most time to get used to simply because the rows are not staggered. I do not type ‘correctly’, as my fingers hover instead of remaining on the home row, so I often make many spelling errors as keys are not in the same position they would be on a standard keyboard layout. That said it is not a deal breaker, and I have gotten much better over the past weeks and I will continue to use this board for several more weeks.
 
So while the layout is an adjustment, in many other ways I prefer this over something like a 60%. The Preonic with the top number row is a huge benefit personally, as are the arrow keys. And while I first thought I would have growing pains using the small spacebar, this is not the case, not only do I not mind it but the ‘Raise’ and ‘Lower’ functions right beside the spacebar really reduce the lack of functionality that I normally get with smaller layouts. I have several frequently used functions down to muscle memory and I am beginning to really enjoy this board. Even more so that I initially thought.
 
Currently I am working on a custom key layout, in particular I want to rearrange the bottom left keys, not having ‘Control’ in the bottom left it really throwing me off, otherwise I have adjusted well and will also add some keys to the ’Lower’ and ‘Raise’ layers.
 
Ultimately this is a board I am pleasantly surprised with, and happy that it is of high quality with a feature rich PCB. For those looking to spice up their custom mech life, I actually can strongly recommend this board. This coming from a guy who's 'one weapon keeb' is a 90% layout. So if I can make the switch, I'm sure many others could as well! This Drop+OLKB board really nailed it!
 


 
Change can be hard, but often we find that it can result in something that is not as negative as we once thought it to be. 
 

C³ Kiwi's 67g  -  VS  -  Zealios V2 65g
Battle of The Tactiles
 

 
 
Intro:
 
This all begins earlier this year when I took my headfirst plunge into this bottomless pit of a hobby. I found the ZealPC Zealios V2 65g tactile switches both through recommendations here on the forum, and through reviews I had read + watched. I ordered a set, and sure enough, the praise was not unfounded, the caveat being they come at a bit of a premium, $1 / per switch. I had an upcoming build in which I would need 100 of these. So I was looking for cost-effective alternatives that would still perform on par.
 
Low and behold, the Equalz C³ Kiwis were available for order and seemed like a great option being both tactile and only slightly heavier at 67g, not to mention cost-effective as well at $19.50 / per 30 switches ($0.65 / per switch). Upon ordering my intent was to solder them to my one weapon keeb, 'Jaster' a Tofu96.
 
Once the C³ Kiwis arrived I decided to first give them a test on my hot-swap KBD67v2 MKII to make sure I was truly going for the best switch option. Long story short I went with the Zealios V2 65g switches for my Tofu96, with more explanation as to why following.
 
This was my initial unboxing and thoughts with the C³ Kiwis:
 
 
Switch Comparison:
 
Key differences that I have observed over a month of use with each switch are as follows.
 
Tactility
- Zealios V2: Very pronounced yet smooth tactile bump that comes early enough in the keypress to make it both a satisfying 'bump' while allowing for a smooth keypress after you pass the bump; so what a good tactile switch should feel like.
- C³ Kiwis: Also a very pronounced yet smooth tactile bump, honestly the tactile bump is on par with the Zealios V2, in my opinion.
 
Switch Weight
- Zealios V2: The weight of this switch really helps distinguish the tactile bump that extra bit more, it is towards the heavier side, but not light enough that all you feel is the tactile bump with nothing to follow it.
- C³ Kiwis: This is where the C³ Kiwi distinguishes itself, it feels heavier, to the point where I really am surprised there is only a 2g difference. Like the Zealios V2 the tactile bump is very pronounced, however, the weight after the bump takes away from that extra smooth feeling with a full-length keystroke. Thus not feeling quite as smooth as the competitor, but by no means bad.
 
Sound
- Zealios V2: This switch sounds smoother, there is very little 'click' / 'twang', even un-lubed it is noticeably quieter than the C³ Kiwi.
- C³ Kiwis: These pronounce a much louder 'click' / 'twang' sound on the key release, if I had to guess it would be because the heavier weighted spring pushes the stem back up again with greater force than the Zealios V2.
 
Typing
It is my opinion that outside of an audible difference and a slightly heavier feeling C³ Kiwi, these switches are very similar. The Zealios V2 is just slightly smoother feeling, and a bit quieter. But both are premium tactile switches that feel amazing to type on. 
 
Sound Comparison
- Zealios V2 lubed VS un-lubed in order (single switch). I lubed these with TriboSys 3204.

Zealios Lubed then Unlubed.mp4  
- Zealios V2 un-lubed VS C³ Kiwis un-lubed in order (single switch).

Zealios Unlubed VS Kiwis Unlubed.mp4  
* Amplified audio by 28db *
 
 
Type test:
 
For my typing test I had to use two separate boards as almost all my Zealios V2 switches are already soldered to my Tofu96.
 
The C³ Kiwis are being used in my KBD67v2 MKII, that said both are solid anodized aluminum cases with PCB mounting and both have foam placed between the PCB and case bottom to reduce any movement and vibrations.
 
Another variable to consider here is that the Zealios V2 switches for this typing test have been lubed. 
 
Typing Comparison
- Zealios V2: 

Zealios Keyboard Type Test.mp4  
- C³ Kiwi:

Kiwi Keyboard Type Test.mp4  
* Amplified audio by 10db * (Audio recorded with a Blue Snowball Mic, at approximately 15cm from the keyboard)
 
 
Conclusion:
 
When I first typed on the C³ Kiwis it immediately made me second guess the difference, I knew the C³ Kiwis sounded more 'clicky' / 'twangy' but when typing they feel quite similar. When you really get into the fine details there are some notable differences but outside of an audible experience, it is something few would notice if you are just typing away.
 
Even prior to lubing the Zealios V2s I knew that the C³ Kiwis sounded different. But the tactile feel is spot on, and while I had to be hard on them for the purposes of this test, they still are an amazing, premium, tactile switch, and they get my glowing recommendation. 
 
However, at the end of the day, I still had to choose my favorite switch for my one weapon keyboard, and therefore the Zealios V2s had to be my number one choice. The C³ Kiwis gave me just enough of an excuse, and when going up against the Zealios V2s, you have to be perfect. 

Purple Wins!
⬆️ Please read this in your Super Smash Bros voice for full effect ⬆️
 
Now unfortunately I have some sad news if I just sold you on either of these switches. The Zealios V2 65g switches are increasingly hard to find with very limited stock. I got mine from KBDfans, however, they are running low. For my fellow canucks there are still some available at ZealPC, otherwise, nearly every other retailer has none or next to no stock.
 
If you were sold on the C³ Kiwis the news is much worse. The only retailer is The Key Dot Co and they only sell large drops, the last run was on August 25th, but hopefully, with popular demand, they bring another batch in (nothing said yet). If you are interested in getting a set I recommend subscribing to their newsletter so you can stay informed.

The C³ Tangerines I really wanted earlier this year sold so fast that I could not complete my order, but they ran another drop on October 27th and I was able to get a set. So hopefully the same goes for the C³ Kiwis.
 

Otherwise, I hope some of you enjoyed this and found my first entry somewhat informative! Hopefully my next switch review features something that can actually be obtained. 
 

Southpaw75 Review 
A Budget Build w/ Full Assembly
 

 
This build was both budget focused, and experimental as I was looking for an option that required full assembly and soldering, I went with the Southpaw75, a 60% layout with a left hand (southpaw) numpad.
 
 
Parts (USD):
For $50CAD this is cheap for a custom keeb (cheap but good, making this a rare find), and while you will require more parts, this remains good value for what it is.
 
 
Why I bought this:
 
My initial reason for wanting this was to try the left-hand Numpad, I had seen some comments about it on Reddit, and after finding the site I was bummed to see that it was sold out. However, after mentioning so on this very thread I was elated to learn that our very own @kelvinhall05 is the seller! I messaged him and was lucky enough to be able to purchase two. Purchase and shipping was easy and straight forward, I was provided with email updates and the process was uneventful.
 
My second reason for wanting a budget option like this was due to the fact that I have not soldered in many years. So on the off chance that I was going to f#ck up, this was the board to do it on. If I made an irreversible mistake it would not feel as significant of a loss as it would be if I messed up and ruined the PCB for my upcoming Tofu96 build. But to be clear, I was not intending on throwing this away, but you get the idea, I wanted a board to ‘practice’ on. 
 
In my opinion, the Southpaw75 is not for a first-time mechanical keyboard purchaser, it requires full assembly and soldering, so unless you have that equipment this is likely not the first option for you. I see this more for a custom keyboard enthusiast looking for a unique layout without breaking the bank. And for that I highly recommend it.
 
 
My thoughts on the Southpaw75:
 
While I do like this layout in the ideal world I would have this as a 65% layout. The lack of arrows and 'delete' in particular are very hard for me to adjust to not having. The benefit is you can add layers via QMK so I have done so, but again, these are keys I use very often so it has been an adjustment process.
 
As for the southpaw numpad, again this is also an adjustment process, I often reach for the right-hand side, however, a left side numpad seems almost more logical in my opinion. I feel as though a right side numpad is there for your mouse hand to use, but when I am working I rarely touch my mouse and the left numpad feels.... well, natural in a sense, despite me being right-handed. Hard to explain this is, one of those things where you just have to experience it for yourself. 
 
Now the material quality, the FR4 composite construction and PCB actually seem really solid. I will not pretend like I know a lot about custom keeb PCB's, but compared to what I have had hands-on experience with this seems like no lesser of quality, while a fraction of the price. Once assembled there is minimal / almost no deck flex, well within an acceptable tolerance level.
 
There are clear cost-saving measures like the requirement to solder in the diodes (included) and the pro micro or elite C (not included), but this is all clearly stated when purchasing so there were no surprises. Another "nice to have" for this build would be a fully enclosed case, but again, for the price, this is not so much a complaint of mine, more of an "ideal". I am more than aware that doing so would significantly raise the cost of the keyboard, so while I am okay with this because it was only $50, it is something to keep in mind. 
 
I personally would not use this as my one weapon keyboard just because of the eventual dust build-up to the back of the PCB. But as low-cost option in this special form factor, it is a great option for any keeb collection.
 
That said the casing could be an interesting 3D print project for me....
 
FR4 PCB pics:
 
 
Assembly process:
 
Luckily all went well with the assembly! As it was my first time soldering in a very long time I double watched some tutorials and because of this, I was slow, especially with my first few. Ultimately it's like riding a bike, if you have done it in the past, it is easy to pick up the skill again. Definitely not as daunting of a task as some make it out to be.
 
I ended up soldering 3 diodes incorrectly, and forgetting to solder in the two diodes beneath my Pro Micro. But this was my fault as I did not fully read through the VERY clear instructions for the diode soldering step. Luckily this was an easy fix as I had the correct equipment and otherwise, everything went perfectly. As long as you follow the instructions there should be no issues.
 

Mounting the diodes in, once done you solder, then snip them. 
 

Diodes soldered in.
 

Stabs lubed and mounted to the PCB.
 

Placing my first few switches and aligning the faceplate. 
 

MX Blacks in.
 

Switches soldered in! This was my first time in many moons, I think I went a little light on the solder for some sockets but all switches are firmly held in.
 

Some cheap caps from KBD fans, although seemingly good quality. I have been very happy with these, especially considering the price of $29.00 
 

🍒🍒🍒
 

How she sits.
 

As you can see the casing is open, and the back of the PCB is fully exposed to open air.
 

Build DONE!
 
 
Switch of choice?:
 
In an interesting turn I went with Cherry MX Blacks, testing out the Gat Blacks I got with my GMMK has completely revised my opinion on linear switches. I feel as though MX Reds really soured my taste for linear switches many years ago. I get why they make sense for gaming (quick actuation with little force required), but for someone who primarily uses keyboards for typing they are a terrible switch for my use case.  
 
While I still prefer tactile switches, in my opinion, a heavy linear compensates for the lack of the tactile bump. So the switch (pun intended) to a heavy linear was not a difficult or unsatisfactory adjustment to make. For this build I decided on MX Blacks because the 5-pin version was very well priced and I do not own a set of MX Blacks, so I wanted to give them a go! 
 

 
 
Conclusion:
 
So here I am typing on my new Southpaw75, I am extremely happy with the end product. For those looking to add to your existing keyboard collection I feel like this is a unique, and relatively inexpensive piece to spruce up the collection. I would definitely recommend this to someone who is looking for a different layout! These are now sold out but @kelvinhall05 has similar budget FR4 DIY keeb kits in the pipeline, so if interested reach out to him!
 
Not to mention the building process was very rewarding and I really enjoyed it, I am excited to move ahead with my Tofu96 build as I now have the soldering confidence to tackle Mount Everest! (Or whatever skill equivalent soldering allows me to do)

Southpaw75 Review 
A Budget Build w/ Full Assembly
 

 
This build was both budget focused, and experimental as I was looking for an option that required full assembly and soldering, I went with the Southpaw75, a 60% layout with a left hand (southpaw) numpad.
 
 
Parts (USD):
For $50CAD this is cheap for a custom keeb (cheap but good, making this a rare find), and while you will require more parts, this remains good value for what it is.
 
 
Why I bought this:
 
My initial reason for wanting this was to try the left-hand Numpad, I had seen some comments about it on Reddit, and after finding the site I was bummed to see that it was sold out. However, after mentioning so on this very thread I was elated to learn that our very own @kelvinhall05 is the seller! I messaged him and was lucky enough to be able to purchase two. Purchase and shipping was easy and straight forward, I was provided with email updates and the process was uneventful.
 
My second reason for wanting a budget option like this was due to the fact that I have not soldered in many years. So on the off chance that I was going to f#ck up, this was the board to do it on. If I made an irreversible mistake it would not feel as significant of a loss as it would be if I messed up and ruined the PCB for my upcoming Tofu96 build. But to be clear, I was not intending on throwing this away, but you get the idea, I wanted a board to ‘practice’ on. 
 
In my opinion, the Southpaw75 is not for a first-time mechanical keyboard purchaser, it requires full assembly and soldering, so unless you have that equipment this is likely not the first option for you. I see this more for a custom keyboard enthusiast looking for a unique layout without breaking the bank. And for that I highly recommend it.
 
 
My thoughts on the Southpaw75:
 
While I do like this layout in the ideal world I would have this as a 65% layout. The lack of arrows and 'delete' in particular are very hard for me to adjust to not having. The benefit is you can add layers via QMK so I have done so, but again, these are keys I use very often so it has been an adjustment process.
 
As for the southpaw numpad, again this is also an adjustment process, I often reach for the right-hand side, however, a left side numpad seems almost more logical in my opinion. I feel as though a right side numpad is there for your mouse hand to use, but when I am working I rarely touch my mouse and the left numpad feels.... well, natural in a sense, despite me being right-handed. Hard to explain this is, one of those things where you just have to experience it for yourself. 
 
Now the material quality, the FR4 composite construction and PCB actually seem really solid. I will not pretend like I know a lot about custom keeb PCB's, but compared to what I have had hands-on experience with this seems like no lesser of quality, while a fraction of the price. Once assembled there is minimal / almost no deck flex, well within an acceptable tolerance level.
 
There are clear cost-saving measures like the requirement to solder in the diodes (included) and the pro micro or elite C (not included), but this is all clearly stated when purchasing so there were no surprises. Another "nice to have" for this build would be a fully enclosed case, but again, for the price, this is not so much a complaint of mine, more of an "ideal". I am more than aware that doing so would significantly raise the cost of the keyboard, so while I am okay with this because it was only $50, it is something to keep in mind. 
 
I personally would not use this as my one weapon keyboard just because of the eventual dust build-up to the back of the PCB. But as low-cost option in this special form factor, it is a great option for any keeb collection.
 
That said the casing could be an interesting 3D print project for me....
 
FR4 PCB pics:
 
 
Assembly process:
 
Luckily all went well with the assembly! As it was my first time soldering in a very long time I double watched some tutorials and because of this, I was slow, especially with my first few. Ultimately it's like riding a bike, if you have done it in the past, it is easy to pick up the skill again. Definitely not as daunting of a task as some make it out to be.
 
I ended up soldering 3 diodes incorrectly, and forgetting to solder in the two diodes beneath my Pro Micro. But this was my fault as I did not fully read through the VERY clear instructions for the diode soldering step. Luckily this was an easy fix as I had the correct equipment and otherwise, everything went perfectly. As long as you follow the instructions there should be no issues.
 

Mounting the diodes in, once done you solder, then snip them. 
 

Diodes soldered in.
 

Stabs lubed and mounted to the PCB.
 

Placing my first few switches and aligning the faceplate. 
 

MX Blacks in.
 

Switches soldered in! This was my first time in many moons, I think I went a little light on the solder for some sockets but all switches are firmly held in.
 

Some cheap caps from KBD fans, although seemingly good quality. I have been very happy with these, especially considering the price of $29.00 
 

🍒🍒🍒
 

How she sits.
 

As you can see the casing is open, and the back of the PCB is fully exposed to open air.
 

Build DONE!
 
 
Switch of choice?:
 
In an interesting turn I went with Cherry MX Blacks, testing out the Gat Blacks I got with my GMMK has completely revised my opinion on linear switches. I feel as though MX Reds really soured my taste for linear switches many years ago. I get why they make sense for gaming (quick actuation with little force required), but for someone who primarily uses keyboards for typing they are a terrible switch for my use case.  
 
While I still prefer tactile switches, in my opinion, a heavy linear compensates for the lack of the tactile bump. So the switch (pun intended) to a heavy linear was not a difficult or unsatisfactory adjustment to make. For this build I decided on MX Blacks because the 5-pin version was very well priced and I do not own a set of MX Blacks, so I wanted to give them a go! 
 

 
 
Conclusion:
 
So here I am typing on my new Southpaw75, I am extremely happy with the end product. For those looking to add to your existing keyboard collection I feel like this is a unique, and relatively inexpensive piece to spruce up the collection. I would definitely recommend this to someone who is looking for a different layout! These are now sold out but @kelvinhall05 has similar budget FR4 DIY keeb kits in the pipeline, so if interested reach out to him!
 
Not to mention the building process was very rewarding and I really enjoyed it, I am excited to move ahead with my Tofu96 build as I now have the soldering confidence to tackle Mount Everest! (Or whatever skill equivalent soldering allows me to do)

C³ Kiwi's 67g  -  VS  -  Zealios V2 65g
Battle of The Tactiles
 

 
 
Intro:
 
This all begins earlier this year when I took my headfirst plunge into this bottomless pit of a hobby. I found the ZealPC Zealios V2 65g tactile switches both through recommendations here on the forum, and through reviews I had read + watched. I ordered a set, and sure enough, the praise was not unfounded, the caveat being they come at a bit of a premium, $1 / per switch. I had an upcoming build in which I would need 100 of these. So I was looking for cost-effective alternatives that would still perform on par.
 
Low and behold, the Equalz C³ Kiwis were available for order and seemed like a great option being both tactile and only slightly heavier at 67g, not to mention cost-effective as well at $19.50 / per 30 switches ($0.65 / per switch). Upon ordering my intent was to solder them to my one weapon keeb, 'Jaster' a Tofu96.
 
Once the C³ Kiwis arrived I decided to first give them a test on my hot-swap KBD67v2 MKII to make sure I was truly going for the best switch option. Long story short I went with the Zealios V2 65g switches for my Tofu96, with more explanation as to why following.
 
This was my initial unboxing and thoughts with the C³ Kiwis:
 
 
Switch Comparison:
 
Key differences that I have observed over a month of use with each switch are as follows.
 
Tactility
- Zealios V2: Very pronounced yet smooth tactile bump that comes early enough in the keypress to make it both a satisfying 'bump' while allowing for a smooth keypress after you pass the bump; so what a good tactile switch should feel like.
- C³ Kiwis: Also a very pronounced yet smooth tactile bump, honestly the tactile bump is on par with the Zealios V2, in my opinion.
 
Switch Weight
- Zealios V2: The weight of this switch really helps distinguish the tactile bump that extra bit more, it is towards the heavier side, but not light enough that all you feel is the tactile bump with nothing to follow it.
- C³ Kiwis: This is where the C³ Kiwi distinguishes itself, it feels heavier, to the point where I really am surprised there is only a 2g difference. Like the Zealios V2 the tactile bump is very pronounced, however, the weight after the bump takes away from that extra smooth feeling with a full-length keystroke. Thus not feeling quite as smooth as the competitor, but by no means bad.
 
Sound
- Zealios V2: This switch sounds smoother, there is very little 'click' / 'twang', even un-lubed it is noticeably quieter than the C³ Kiwi.
- C³ Kiwis: These pronounce a much louder 'click' / 'twang' sound on the key release, if I had to guess it would be because the heavier weighted spring pushes the stem back up again with greater force than the Zealios V2.
 
Typing
It is my opinion that outside of an audible difference and a slightly heavier feeling C³ Kiwi, these switches are very similar. The Zealios V2 is just slightly smoother feeling, and a bit quieter. But both are premium tactile switches that feel amazing to type on. 
 
Sound Comparison
- Zealios V2 lubed VS un-lubed in order (single switch). I lubed these with TriboSys 3204.

Zealios Lubed then Unlubed.mp4  
- Zealios V2 un-lubed VS C³ Kiwis un-lubed in order (single switch).

Zealios Unlubed VS Kiwis Unlubed.mp4  
* Amplified audio by 28db *
 
 
Type test:
 
For my typing test I had to use two separate boards as almost all my Zealios V2 switches are already soldered to my Tofu96.
 
The C³ Kiwis are being used in my KBD67v2 MKII, that said both are solid anodized aluminum cases with PCB mounting and both have foam placed between the PCB and case bottom to reduce any movement and vibrations.
 
Another variable to consider here is that the Zealios V2 switches for this typing test have been lubed. 
 
Typing Comparison
- Zealios V2: 

Zealios Keyboard Type Test.mp4  
- C³ Kiwi:

Kiwi Keyboard Type Test.mp4  
* Amplified audio by 10db * (Audio recorded with a Blue Snowball Mic, at approximately 15cm from the keyboard)
 
 
Conclusion:
 
When I first typed on the C³ Kiwis it immediately made me second guess the difference, I knew the C³ Kiwis sounded more 'clicky' / 'twangy' but when typing they feel quite similar. When you really get into the fine details there are some notable differences but outside of an audible experience, it is something few would notice if you are just typing away.
 
Even prior to lubing the Zealios V2s I knew that the C³ Kiwis sounded different. But the tactile feel is spot on, and while I had to be hard on them for the purposes of this test, they still are an amazing, premium, tactile switch, and they get my glowing recommendation. 
 
However, at the end of the day, I still had to choose my favorite switch for my one weapon keyboard, and therefore the Zealios V2s had to be my number one choice. The C³ Kiwis gave me just enough of an excuse, and when going up against the Zealios V2s, you have to be perfect. 

Purple Wins!
⬆️ Please read this in your Super Smash Bros voice for full effect ⬆️
 
Now unfortunately I have some sad news if I just sold you on either of these switches. The Zealios V2 65g switches are increasingly hard to find with very limited stock. I got mine from KBDfans, however, they are running low. For my fellow canucks there are still some available at ZealPC, otherwise, nearly every other retailer has none or next to no stock.
 
If you were sold on the C³ Kiwis the news is much worse. The only retailer is The Key Dot Co and they only sell large drops, the last run was on August 25th, but hopefully, with popular demand, they bring another batch in (nothing said yet). If you are interested in getting a set I recommend subscribing to their newsletter so you can stay informed.

The C³ Tangerines I really wanted earlier this year sold so fast that I could not complete my order, but they ran another drop on October 27th and I was able to get a set. So hopefully the same goes for the C³ Kiwis.
 

Otherwise, I hope some of you enjoyed this and found my first entry somewhat informative! Hopefully my next switch review features something that can actually be obtained. 
 

C³ Kiwi's 67g  -  VS  -  Zealios V2 65g
Battle of The Tactiles
 

 
 
Intro:
 
This all begins earlier this year when I took my headfirst plunge into this bottomless pit of a hobby. I found the ZealPC Zealios V2 65g tactile switches both through recommendations here on the forum, and through reviews I had read + watched. I ordered a set, and sure enough, the praise was not unfounded, the caveat being they come at a bit of a premium, $1 / per switch. I had an upcoming build in which I would need 100 of these. So I was looking for cost-effective alternatives that would still perform on par.
 
Low and behold, the Equalz C³ Kiwis were available for order and seemed like a great option being both tactile and only slightly heavier at 67g, not to mention cost-effective as well at $19.50 / per 30 switches ($0.65 / per switch). Upon ordering my intent was to solder them to my one weapon keeb, 'Jaster' a Tofu96.
 
Once the C³ Kiwis arrived I decided to first give them a test on my hot-swap KBD67v2 MKII to make sure I was truly going for the best switch option. Long story short I went with the Zealios V2 65g switches for my Tofu96, with more explanation as to why following.
 
This was my initial unboxing and thoughts with the C³ Kiwis:
 
 
Switch Comparison:
 
Key differences that I have observed over a month of use with each switch are as follows.
 
Tactility
- Zealios V2: Very pronounced yet smooth tactile bump that comes early enough in the keypress to make it both a satisfying 'bump' while allowing for a smooth keypress after you pass the bump; so what a good tactile switch should feel like.
- C³ Kiwis: Also a very pronounced yet smooth tactile bump, honestly the tactile bump is on par with the Zealios V2, in my opinion.
 
Switch Weight
- Zealios V2: The weight of this switch really helps distinguish the tactile bump that extra bit more, it is towards the heavier side, but not light enough that all you feel is the tactile bump with nothing to follow it.
- C³ Kiwis: This is where the C³ Kiwi distinguishes itself, it feels heavier, to the point where I really am surprised there is only a 2g difference. Like the Zealios V2 the tactile bump is very pronounced, however, the weight after the bump takes away from that extra smooth feeling with a full-length keystroke. Thus not feeling quite as smooth as the competitor, but by no means bad.
 
Sound
- Zealios V2: This switch sounds smoother, there is very little 'click' / 'twang', even un-lubed it is noticeably quieter than the C³ Kiwi.
- C³ Kiwis: These pronounce a much louder 'click' / 'twang' sound on the key release, if I had to guess it would be because the heavier weighted spring pushes the stem back up again with greater force than the Zealios V2.
 
Typing
It is my opinion that outside of an audible difference and a slightly heavier feeling C³ Kiwi, these switches are very similar. The Zealios V2 is just slightly smoother feeling, and a bit quieter. But both are premium tactile switches that feel amazing to type on. 
 
Sound Comparison
- Zealios V2 lubed VS un-lubed in order (single switch). I lubed these with TriboSys 3204.

Zealios Lubed then Unlubed.mp4  
- Zealios V2 un-lubed VS C³ Kiwis un-lubed in order (single switch).

Zealios Unlubed VS Kiwis Unlubed.mp4  
* Amplified audio by 28db *
 
 
Type test:
 
For my typing test I had to use two separate boards as almost all my Zealios V2 switches are already soldered to my Tofu96.
 
The C³ Kiwis are being used in my KBD67v2 MKII, that said both are solid anodized aluminum cases with PCB mounting and both have foam placed between the PCB and case bottom to reduce any movement and vibrations.
 
Another variable to consider here is that the Zealios V2 switches for this typing test have been lubed. 
 
Typing Comparison
- Zealios V2: 

Zealios Keyboard Type Test.mp4  
- C³ Kiwi:

Kiwi Keyboard Type Test.mp4  
* Amplified audio by 10db * (Audio recorded with a Blue Snowball Mic, at approximately 15cm from the keyboard)
 
 
Conclusion:
 
When I first typed on the C³ Kiwis it immediately made me second guess the difference, I knew the C³ Kiwis sounded more 'clicky' / 'twangy' but when typing they feel quite similar. When you really get into the fine details there are some notable differences but outside of an audible experience, it is something few would notice if you are just typing away.
 
Even prior to lubing the Zealios V2s I knew that the C³ Kiwis sounded different. But the tactile feel is spot on, and while I had to be hard on them for the purposes of this test, they still are an amazing, premium, tactile switch, and they get my glowing recommendation. 
 
However, at the end of the day, I still had to choose my favorite switch for my one weapon keyboard, and therefore the Zealios V2s had to be my number one choice. The C³ Kiwis gave me just enough of an excuse, and when going up against the Zealios V2s, you have to be perfect. 

Purple Wins!
⬆️ Please read this in your Super Smash Bros voice for full effect ⬆️
 
Now unfortunately I have some sad news if I just sold you on either of these switches. The Zealios V2 65g switches are increasingly hard to find with very limited stock. I got mine from KBDfans, however, they are running low. For my fellow canucks there are still some available at ZealPC, otherwise, nearly every other retailer has none or next to no stock.
 
If you were sold on the C³ Kiwis the news is much worse. The only retailer is The Key Dot Co and they only sell large drops, the last run was on August 25th, but hopefully, with popular demand, they bring another batch in (nothing said yet). If you are interested in getting a set I recommend subscribing to their newsletter so you can stay informed.

The C³ Tangerines I really wanted earlier this year sold so fast that I could not complete my order, but they ran another drop on October 27th and I was able to get a set. So hopefully the same goes for the C³ Kiwis.
 

Otherwise, I hope some of you enjoyed this and found my first entry somewhat informative! Hopefully my next switch review features something that can actually be obtained. 
 

The YOK Purple Trash Panda is the tactile (and purple) edition of the YOK Trash Panda, a linear switch which is made to be a base in the Frankenstein switch, the Holy Panda.
 
What sparked my interest about the YOK Purple Trash Panda - which I will be referring to as the Purple Panda - is that the product description across NovelKeys and mykeyboard.eu as well as other keyboard forums was that they described the Purple Panda as having the same actuation and tactility traits as the famous boutique switch, the Zealios V2. You can read my review of the Zealios V2 by clicking here.
 
On the left is the Purple Panda's stem, and on the right is the Zealios V2's stem. At first glance, you really do see striking similarities between the two switches, such as the stem legs and the color. It's like YOK were intentionally replicate the Zealios V2 and it shows below.
 

 
The main difference to both stems is the material, the Purple Panda is extremely rough to the touch as well as lubing, the material feels so unfinished and it's such a shame as it makes the switch so scratchy so use. I had to heavily lube the switch with Krytox 205g0 thick lube in order to solve the scratchiness and spring ping, and even then it didn't even rival an unlubed Zealios. The Purple Panda feels like it was sent one production line early and just isn't as polished as I feel it could've been. It's far too scratchy no matter what.
 

 
If there's any redeeming qualities about the switch - which are minimal and already listed to begin with - it's that the tactility is awesome. The tactile bump at 67g feels great if not more sharp than the Zealios V2 at 62g and 67g weights. The Polar Panda's leaf in the housing is responsible for this trait which is why the YOK Panda line's switches, specifically the housings, are so sought after to create Holy Pandas. The housing is the best part of this switch unfortunately.
 
I totally know what this switch is not best used as is and is best used to create the Holy Pandas, but I wanted to judge the switch as it is due to the fact that it is a purple variant of the YOK Trash Panda, and why would YOK create an alternate stemmed Trash Panda if the Panda housings are made to create Holy Pandas? Unfortunately in my use case, that's been answered by the fact that the stem is so scratchy and irritable that you shouldn't used these switches in the first place.
 
It's not a bad switch by any means, and for the $0.60 per switch it retails for on your average mechanical keyboards online retailer, it's a great tactile switch that beats the Gateron Brown easily. The stand-out problem with these switches is how scratchy, unkempt, and rough the stem is, it pales in comparison to the Zealios V2 which is so what it tries to replicate, and falls flat on its face due to the low quality of the stem.
Overall, it's a tactile switch that I'd take over an MX Brown, but nothing I would actively go after due to how rough and dry the switch feels to use.

The Gateron Ink Black is essentially a Gateron Black with a transparent, smoky housing and a black stem, and is highly regarded as one of, if not the most smooth MX-style switch on the market, rivaling that of Zeal's Tealios V2, and the Vintage Black.
The Ink Black is a fairly medium-weighted switch, requiring 60g of force to actuate and 70g of force to completely bottom out. My personal preferred weight for linear switches is anywhere between 62g to 67g so the 60g of actuation force is very welcome.
 
I personally like to use my linear switches lubed, but the Gateron Ink Black is one of those switches that doesn't require that treatment to be a smooth switch. It's a fantastic switch at stock, and is probably one of three switches that I'd consider using stock, next to the Tealios V2 and the NovelKeys Cream. The Gateron Ink Black is super smooth even without lube.
With that being said, I still lubed my Gateron Ink Blacks with Tribosys 3204 as I felt that it didn't require thick lube like Krytox 205g0, and it made it even smoother. I did heavily lube my switch, but it did not interfere with the travel, actuation, upstroke, return, or keypress of the switch in any way, and I prefer heavily lubing my linears as it ensures 100% smoothness. Again, not that the Ink Black needed that in the first place, regardless.
 

 
In my time scouting the switch market, I can find Ink Blacks for around $0.75-$0.80 a switch, which is fairly expensive considering the other offerings on the market, such as regular Gaterons, which can retail for as low as $0.30 a switch. However, I am confident that expending a bit more for the Ink Blacks will work in everybody who is considering a linear switch's favor, as the smoothness - once again, even at stock and unlubed - is rivalled only by the most elite switches such as the Tealios V2 and the Vintage Black - and those go for $1+ per switch each for what I can perceive having using Tealios V2 extensively as minimal improvement.
 
In fact, since using the Ink Blacks, they've become my top 2 linear switch next to the Tealios who edges it out as a close winner. The Ink Black is smooth in every regard and the spring is really high quality. The spring feels robust and full which gives the Ink Black an ultra satisfying keypress travel. The Tealios on the other hand has a fairly hollow spring which is susceptible to pinging.
 
If you're in the market for one of, if not the smoothest, linear, MX-style switch on the market for under $1 per switch, you cannot go wrong with the Ink Black. Ultra smooth stem, silky smooth housing, satisfying spring sturdiness, and excellent lubing capability, making it a solid linear switch.

The Cherry MX Black is arguably one of if the best modern Cherry switch to ever be created, the vintage kind of which is one of the most sought-after linear switches ever for its unbeatable smoothness, and ironically is labelled Cherry's best switch despite being made a few decades ago. There is a lot of debate online about what year would qualify a Cherry Black to be vintage, but generally from what I've read online, any Cherry Black switch found inside a board that was manufactured from before 1990 is considered a board with vintage Cherry Blacks inside of it.
 
Today though, I have non-vintage, re-tooled Cherry MX Blacks with me. I have used these Cherry Blacks for around two weeks now and here are my opinions and experiences with my time using the Cherry MX Black. For reference, my daily keyboard uses 67g Tealios V2s lubed with Tribosys 3204 resting on a brass plate. The board I used with the Cherry Blacks in uses the Cherry Blacks lubed with Krytox 205g0 and a carbon fiber plate, so my experiences with the Cherry Black might differ from others due to the plate material, lubing, and even keycaps difference.
 
When I first got my Cherry Blacks, I was curious as to how they would feel, as I've been advised online that re-tooled, modern Cherry Blacks feel vastly scratchier and much more inconsistent than vintage Cherry Blacks due to how much re-molding the Cherry Black has gone through.
Unfortunately, this was the case with me, as immediately as a loose switch, when I pressed down on the switch, it was really scratchy. It had about the same scratchiness as YOK Pandas, which are notoriously scratchy switches in my experience. Even stock Gateron Yellows beat these in smoothness.
 
I opened up the switch and the material wasn't actually that bad, but it was clear how rough and unpolished the material was compared to Gateron housings.
 

 
Prior to purchasing the Cherry MX Black, I knew it was going to be a heavy switch from reading the force curve. At a perceived 60g operating point, and an 80g bottom-out, it was going to be a workout for my fingers which were used to switches that bottom-out in the 60g region.
 

 
After opening up the switch, I took a look at the  stem, as I always do. Its material is fairly decent, with some minor roughness. It's a pretty standard linear stem with defined stem legs, as with all other MX linears on the market which use the same stem design. The material of the stem doesn't compare to the smoothness of other switches such as Gateron Ink Blacks or Zeal's high-end Tealios V2 switches, but it's decently smooth, and I'm sure people would not complain about it if they were obliged to use a Cherry Black.
 

 
I believe what contributes more to the abundant scratchiness of the Cherry Blacks - even after lubing - is the housing. The housings are definitely rough and course, especially when compared to something like Gateron housings. The bog standard stem combined with the 'eh'-quality housing is in my experience what makes the re-tooled Cherry Black a scratchy switch.
 

 
Typing on the Cherry Blacks was in all honesty, a pretty shameful experience. I lubed my Cherry Blacks with Krytox 205g0 - with a single Cherry Black lubed with thinner Tribosys 3204 lube to go into the Escape key - and every time I wanted to use them, the prominent scratchiness and sheer resistance of the spring was something I could not bond with. While it was a nice novelty to be able to daily run lubed Cherry Blacks, I did not find the typing experience throughout the two weeks I spent with them fun, and always found myself going back to my main board with Tealios inside them as I found the Tealios better-weighted and tenfold smoother.
 
Do I recommend the re-tooled Cherry Black? No, I don't. It's far too scratchy for what it is, and the weight is a mountain to overcome. I would much rather purchase another alternative linear such as Gateron Yellows or even Gateron Ink Blacks, as those two switches are noticeably smoother than the Cherry Black even as a stock switch, and lubing both of those options will lead to an even greater smoothness that the re-tooled Cherry Black can never achieve.
 
Sorry Cherry, but your gold standard is just a scratchy linear.