Bruno_A

Nope, this is definitely confusing, especially to explain. Maybe this article will explain it better than me: https://www8.garmin.com/manuals/webhelp/drivesmart65w-alexa/EN-US/GUID-37FE2562-ABA3-4179-8483-ACF01809E717.html The reason why I don't connect my phone directly to my Head Unit, is because it does not have Bluetooth. This is often taken for granted, but I drive a classic car, with an older Head Unit. The original charger can give power to the device and get an Aux input from the it via the Mini-USB cable attached to the charger. The device can also be powered via a normal USB-A to Mini-USB cable, connected to a charger, or computer, even, however, I have never seen a Mini-USB cable that can do the two things at the same time. I felt like this was the wrong place to post this, but I couldn't think of any other place.

I'll see if I can explain it better. So, the SatNav is powered by a MIni-USB cable that's part of the original 12V car charger. That charger has an AUX port that you can use an AUX cable to connect it to your Head Unit. See picture: The phone is connected to the SatNav via Bluetooth. The charger gets the AUX input from the Mini-USB cable connected to the SatNav and you can output it to your Head Unit by simply conecting it to the charger, via the AUX port. That single Mini-USB cable allows the device not only to be powered, but to send data to the charger, too. Is there a cable that could both power the device and also get an AUX input, like the original charger does? The reason for this, is that I intend to use my own charger, an Anker one, which also charges my laptop with a USB-C port, and only have one 12V socket, but still want to be able to play music via Bluetooth. I looked, and found this, which I bought. It didn't really work: I plugged the top end into the device, and then, the USB-A to my lighter charger, and the 3.5mm jack to the head unit. This powered the device, but the device would not send a signal to the 3.5mm jack. Does that make sense?

Apologies if it's not clear enough. I do not want to use the original charger, which has an Aux input that I can connect to my Head Unit, and replace it with a "normal" cable and power it through my lighter socket charger. However, I want to retain this functionality. Therefore, I was wondering if I could replace the original charger with a single USB-A to Mini, which would also have an Aux cable to plug into my Head Unit. Are these cables a thing? If so, what are they called, or where could I get one? Also, I was wondering if a USB Mini cable had the ability to give power to a device, and get an AUX input, which seems to be what the original charger does. But because I never seen anything like that, I was wondering if it was a thing. Did that make sense?

Not sure if this would be Off-topic, so, apologies in advance. Hi all, I have a SatNav thone of these chargers: These are great, because I can connect my phone to the SatNav, connect the Aux (1) to my Head Unit, and I can play music from my phone. However, if I want this functionality, I MUST use the original charger. I was wondering if it's possible to replace the original charger with something like this: Now, I actually bought this specific cable, and while it does power the device, the Aux cable does not work. Probably not meant for this use. Are Mini-USB cables able to provide power and receive Aux input? It seems to be what the original charger does. I was wondering if there was a cable like that, that I could use my lighter charger to power. The reason for this, is that my lighter charger is rather "powerful", and has a PD USB-C port that can charge my laptop, which I'd like to use. Many thanks

Our version doesn't really have a fan at the front. Also, the machine is brand new, so, the heat sink fins are squeaky clean. Doing such mods wouldn't be an option, too, in our workplace. It would certainly be a last resort. I can either slap a fan at the front, which I'm not sure would make a difference, or upgrading the cooler to a "somewhat" decent low profile one.

Not really an option due to cost, really. But if it were up to me, I would seriously consider it.

Hi all, We bought a Dell Precision 3650, at work, with a Core i7 10700K, and an Nvidia Quadro P2000. While it has decent specs, it overheats and thermal throttles out of the box, hitting just over 100C. I changed the stock thermal paste to Arctic MX-2, and it actually made a massive difference. It no longer thermal throttles, and the fans are quieter, however, it still hits nearly 100C, and that's without the heat of the graphics card being dumped into the CPU. Here are some pictures of the stock cooler, and an exploded view of the different components, which is a similar version to ours: Why would Dell do this, is beyond me. I was wondering what were my options for a cooler upgrade. As you can see, the PSU goes right on top of the CPU cooler, which massively limits my options. I measured the clearance, and I have up to 65mm, so, it would have to be something very low profile, that would keep up with an i7 10700K. Noise levels aren't a concern, within reason. Any ideas? I looked into Noctua's range, and the Noctua NH-L12 Ghost S1 Edition seems decent, but I'm not sure it will fit, only by a couple millimeters. Also, I looked into a Corsair H60. Someone has already done it, actually. Thanks in advance.

Just tried using that on my iPhone. It works surprisingly well. I've got an Nvidia Shield TV box, with a controller, as well, which I'll install it on, and try. The thing is, how would I connect my wheel and pedals by USB?

It will allow you to run the three monitors just fine, yes. But won't provide you decent frame rate in games, I'm afraid.

Well, it would. But what do you mean by "run"? Just run the monitors (display an image), or run games? If it's the latter, I'd upgrade to something faster.

Hi all, Sorry if this isn't the right category, but I'm assembling a Sim-Racing rig, and I plan on playing in my room, mostly, where my computer is. This is fine, but, I would also like to play in the lounge, where I have a 4K TV, when I have guests over, or to play with my dad. This is a problem, as I don't have my PC in the lounge, and carrying it and plugging it every time I want to play in the lounge is not ideal, as it would be time consuming, and my PC is custom water cooled, which makes it quite heavy. I was wondering if there was some sort of solution (cable, hub, whatever) I could use that would carry HDMI and USB ports from the computer to the TV. Possibly a Fibre Optic solution? I haven't done any research on this, but I work in IT, at a school, and we use HDMI over Ethernet boxes (not sure which ones, as they were bought way before I joined them). This is almost what I need, as I also need USB ports for keyboard and the Sim-Racing components (wheel and pedals). Any ideas? Many thanks, Bruno

It doesn't allow me to change the permissions that way. Is it because the parent dataset does not have 'others'?

Hi all, I am playing around with FreeNAS. Can anyone tell me how I set up an SMB share that does not require a password to access? I will use it for MDT, when deploying Windows 10 via the network. MDT would map the drive, and I would find software installers that I could not deploy with MDT. This is just for personal use at home, and the share will only store a few installers, and that's why I'm not bothering with a password. Also, any idea why one of my otdher storage pools status is set to 'UNKNOWN'? I've been using it for ages, including today, and when I added a 10GB drive to the FreeNAS, and created a storage pool, I noticed the status of that pool was set to 'UNAVAIL' and after a restart of the FreeNAS, set to 'UNKNOWN'. Obviously, I can no longer access the share in that pool. Many thanks, Bruno.

Yes, your network is Gigabit, and therefore, if you're transfering files at full Gigabit speed (125 MBps), and downloading something with a 500-700Mbps connection, it would bottleneck.

Thanks a lot for this info, and for taking the time to research. I'm impressed with your searching skills, as I have not found anything good yet. Intel 10th gen laptops are not that new, and I would think that there is already support for them. I had seen videos about my model, the XPS 13 7390 Developer Edition, on YouTube, and I haven't seen anyone with the same issue, yet, I do, and to make it even more bizarre, this is the second one I own with screen issues...I have emailed Dell, and I am very tempted to have them send me another one, or even try to get upgraded to something better, as it has been three months of mocking around and waiting.

I have tried reinstalling Ubuntu using the Dell recovery tool, and tried booting with 'nomodeset' on, and there is no distortion, however, I can notice a subtle flicker which is terrible on the eyes. So far, my experience with the XPS 13 has been quite crap. The first one I purchased had a similar issue with the screen, but it was definitely a hardware issue, which was probably a bad display cable, but this one has to be a software issue. Given that the two laptops I had from them had a similar issue, I highly doubt I'm this unlucky, and I'm just starting to think their reliability and quality control are just bad...very disappointing

I tried Clear Linux, didn't work. I'm running out of things to test, and I'm waiting to hear from Dell on a very long email that I wrote them, about this.

I just did the .conf file. It actually got worse. Now, my screen is grey-ish. It's blank with tiny black dots all over, making it look grey. No luck...

using nomodeset, it just sits with the Dell logo on the middle of the screen, and stays like that.

Sorry for the delay. It turns out it's not just the graphics that don't work properly, but the OS as well. My icons in the taskbar keep flashing and are displayed in other parts of the taskbar as well, and it wouldn't register clicks in certain check boxes and typing boxes. Really annoying. This is the best I can describe it, and it took me a very very long time to just connect to the hidden SSID at work. I finally did, and did the series of commands you quoted. It has not fixed either of the issues. Should I try the conf file?

I did add this when I had Ubuntu 19.10. It actually made it worse. Here's what I'll do: I'll install Manjaro and add the conf file, and report back. Thanks for this.

Just tried Manjaro KDE live, and unfortunately, I still get the screen distortion. This is sad...

Hi all, I have purchased an XPS 13 Dev edition, with a 10th gen Intel Core i7 CPU. It comes with Ubuntu 18.04. After the login screen, I get major screen issues, which with a bit of research, it appears to be quite common with the XPS 13 developer editions, and this happens in Ubuntu 18.04, 19.10, the latest version of Kali, and Mint. I’m starting to wonder if the “new” CPUs are not quite compatible with Linux yet, or if there is a solution?

Thanks for this. I sorted it, now.

I never thought of that. I deleted the Linux partition, and the Linux boot entry from the BIOS. Done, thanks a lot.