MentalBlank

Pretty sure he meant i7 8700k

I had similar issue with my i5 6600K and Corsair H115i, it was working fine the first 6 months then i noticed my temps jumped from 63C to 85-90C. It turned out it was my cooler which suprised me since the pump was working fine and liquid temp was around 35C max. I tried reapply thermal paste etc.. None of that worked, i ended up RMA and they asked me if i want my money back so i did and got me Hyper 212 evo, now my temp setting at 59C while gaming at 4.5Ghz and 50% quiter. 85C isn't acceptable if you have an AIO, especially if your CPU isn't overclocked. Check if the pump is running and not showing 0 RPM in the Corsair Link, try reapply thermal paste. Also it's always nice to have an air cooler like Hyper 212 evo in case your AIO dies and you need to confirm that.

Going for similar build, my only issue right now is picking the right GPU. EVGA is probably the best choise here since the case seem to be designed for it but i never tried an EVGA product before and all i hear is thermal issue on their card which seem to be fixed by now but for what ever reason they added some bullshit fuse to the GPU PCB (inb4 it blows up after the warranty ends lol). I now want to stay away from it even more. The Strix is the best 10x0 series card imo, runs cooler and quiter also will match your ROG motherboard, aura sync etc... That being said you wont have enough GPU clearance if you decide to install 240mm rad, i blame NZXT for that, like ffs if this case was an inch longer it would support both x62 and 300mm GPU. You only got only few options here, 1. Either get air cooler or 120mm rad 2. Shorter GPU Also i recommend that you get an SF600 PSU, it will help the GPU to breath. If you install ATX PSU, HDD and all the cabled the holes will be non existence.

Note that i reinstalled Windows 8.1 yesterday, it crashed at least 20 times during the past 3-4 months.

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Crash dump directory: C:\Windows\Minidump Crash dumps are enabled on your computer. On Tue 2017-06-06 18:33:18 your computer crashed crash dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\060617-9562-01.dmp This was probably caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe (nt+0x14E2A0) Bugcheck code: 0x139 (0x3, 0xFFFFF80398088720, 0xFFFFF80398088678, 0x0) Error: KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System company: Microsoft Corporation description: NT Kernel & System Bug check description: The kernel has detected the corruption of a critical data structure. The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver that cannot be identified at this time. On Tue 2017-06-06 18:33:18 your computer crashed crash dump file: C:\Windows\memory.dmp This was probably caused by the following module: ntkrnlmp.exe (nt!KeBugCheckEx+0x0) Bugcheck code: 0x139 (0x3, 0xFFFFF80398088720, 0xFFFFF80398088678, 0x0) Error: KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE Bug check description: The kernel has detected the corruption of a critical data structure. The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver that cannot be identified at this time.

Hi, my PC keep crashing no matter what i do, been like this for 3-4 months no idea why. It all started when i bought nvme m.2 SSD (Samsung Evo 960) and the same day i downgraded from Windows 10 to 8.1 Pro Now i'm having this blue screen crash even while not playing games. It happens randomly, while watching youtube, playing games or anything. I had USB 3.0 PCI card that i bought from ebay, i even removed it and reinstalled Windows 8.1, but this wasn't the issue either. What can i do to fix this? PC Specs: Asus Z170-A Intel i5 6600k @4.5GHz MSI Sea Hawk X GTX 1070 Corsair Vengeance DDR4 16GB @2900MHz Corsair H115i Corsair RM850X 2x WD Blue HDD Samsung Evo 960 240GB (Main OS) Samsung Evo 840 240GB PG279Q VX238H

I mentioned that i did a fresh installtion with no software other than installing the game only. I don't have custom keys set up, i tried first with a cheap 5 dollar mouse & keyboard that doesn't required a software and works fine on my laptop.

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MSI told me that EK uses custom PCB mean while X is reference PCB. If i get the 1080 my CPU temp may increase from 60 to 75 or even 80c since there is no airflow

Yes, my Sea Hawk X Corsair never went above 50C. But there was annoying coil whine, i may go for 1080 FTW but i'm afraid it may run too hot with my CPU.

I'm having issue choosing between them, i know the 1080 is faster but also more expensive. What i really care about it temperature and noise. I have NZXT H440 Chassi with 2x AF140 Quite Edition 1080RPM on the radiator (push) mounted on the top and one SP120 1440RPM on the back. I had to RMA 2x 1070 Sea Hawk X because of the coil whine and i don't know if i should go and give it a 3rd try or go with 1080 FTW as i can't afford 1080 Sea Hawk. The 1070 Sea Hawk cost 700$ mean while 1080 cost 1030$ and i assume it will have the same coil whine issue as the 1070 since they are reference PCB. So my only choice is to keep RMA the 1070 Sea Hawk or go with the 1080 FTW for 880$. But here is the issue, my chassi do get hot easily with my 980ti G1 (73c) that i did return too and i'm affraid if this can hurt my components like my SSD mounted under the card or the CPU may get 20% hotter since the fans are 2x AF running at low RPM? With no GPU installed my CPU i5 6600k @4.5Ghz temp is min 32C and max 60-63C. So i assume with the 1080 FTW this temp will go up to 75C or even 80C? Also keep in mind the 3 front fans are off since i want it quite as possible so that leave the back and two fans on the radiator to take out the heat.

All G-Sync, 144Hz, 1440p use the same panel. So far i have tried 2x Asus PG279Q, 1x Acer XB271HU, 1x DELL S2716DG and here is the result: My first Asus swift had massive backlight bleed, one dead pixel top to the right, IPS glow, and dust inside the panel. http://imgur.com/a/DMmkz Second swift had 30% less backlight bleed than the first one, 0 dead pixels, IPS glow and dust inside the panel. http://imgur.com/a/OMpV1 Moving to the Acer XB271HU very minimal backlight bleed, one dead pixel to down to the left and a black line, IPS glow and dust just like the asus. http://imgur.com/a/SukCF And finally the Dell, noticeable backlight bleed because the bleed was blue instead of white, no glow because it's a TN panel, horrible colors until you customize it form the Nvidia controll panel, no dead pixel, dust inside the panel, G-Sync was working weird in league of legends loading screen the brightness felt like going down and up, and finally the most annoying thing i had to deal with this monitor is ''pixel inversion'' it was noticeable as fuck especially if you turn fast respons time on. http://imgur.com/a/fxW75 I will go and give the Asus PG279Q a 3rd try if not a 4th, i had the best gaming experience with this monitor. Sadly the backlight bleed and ips glow was way beyond compare to other monitors. My 3rd monitor should be here by monday, i will keep you updated. Edit!! Just got my 3rd Swift and holy shit this is the worst one so far, i wish i kept my mouth shut and didn't RMA my Swift #2. This one that i got has 6-7 dead pixels to top that off the backlight bleed was yellow and noticeable as fuck. http://imgur.com/a/1gCVz

Did you try to lower the votalge a little bit? My is stable at 1.280v (4.5Ghz) Max temp 57C H155i (2x AF140 Quite Edition fans) Asus z170-a 6600k @4.5 ghz

Solved!

I have this chassi and it get really hot, i had to watercool everything. And most important, the window is shit and scratch so easily and gather dust/hair what ever you want to call it. I had a 980ti G1 in this chassi for around 3 days until i returned the card and realize the window turned into rainbow LOL. Also it had to buy adapter in order to mount the SSD in the front because my PSU sata cable connector was L and not flat. Now i have to wait for EVGA Hybrid or Waterforce. Other wise this chassi is sexy as fuck and i have no regret buying it. But the window is really cheap i wonder if i can find a replacement.

Founder = Sexy MSRP = Cooler

I bought GTX 1070 Sea Hawk X and it is shit, the coil whine on the MSI product are ridiculous i will return it this week. I have to buy a watercooled GPU, there will be Evga Hybrid and Gigabyte Waterforce, which one peforms better also has no coilwhine? Also one more thing i noticed, the 120mm fan on the Sea Hawk radiator is stupid the LED on this thing is annoying af since i can see it form the window in my eye 24/7 and the fan is not even connected to the GPU board this make things alot diffucle to controll the fan speed. The only way to controll them is to download software and set them at CPU heat level and not the GPU... Previous Waterforce card the fan was connected to the GPU board but you had to cut the cable in order to install a custom fan which is stupid too in my opinion. So what do you guys think, Gigabyte or EVGA? I really like how the Gigabyte is fully watercooled and has no fan on the VRam but the same time i don't want to cut the fan cable in order to replace them... That leaves me to EVGA but they haven't even said when will be released.

Thank you for taking your time helping me out, i did try some of these before but none solved my problem simply because there was nothing wrong with my drivers. I found out that my HDDs getting low power when sharing the same Sata Power cable, weird right? Corsair RM850x should be fine running even a triple HDDs with the same sata power cable.

No errors, it may have something to do with my Corsair RM850x PSU or asus z170-a motherboard. I'm using same sata power cable for both HDDs, i'll try seperate them later and see what happens.

I disconnected the sata power from my new 3Tb HDD and everything is working fine now... Is my 3TB corrupted?

This all i can see...

720p, 1080p. They worked perfectly before i added my new 3TB drive.

So i bought 3TB WD blue because my 1TB WD Blue was already full. Today i realize that all my gameplay on my 1TB drive was lagging, it never happened before i added the new 3TB drive. I though my 1TB HDD was dead so i moved my videos to my new 3TB HDD and the same problem, nothing solved. Finally i moved them to my SSD and it worked fine, wtf is going on? My HDD seem healthy and working when i move files or play games.

I have 6600k and GTX 1070 playing games in 1440p, 100FPS+