A Silver

Not a bad shout. Could go with AMD instead too!

Im at 1440p so that is exactly what I wanted to hear. That being said, I may wait like Zet said.

I was hoping to upgrade to a 4080 but after the launch, I am not going to do that. I still want to upgrade and I am looking at a 3090 as I should be good with my 850W PSU and on paper it is much better than my 1080, I have looked up benchmarks for the two main games my PC struggles with (MSFS and RDR2) and it looks good but it is a lot of money. Based on personal experience, how much of a real improvement will I see?

Exactly what I needed, thanks!

I recently moved my system to a new case and have an m.2 SSD for my boot drive and initially forgot to plug in my two sata SSDs. The PC did not boot into windows until I plugged in the SATA drives which led me to believe the bootloader is on a different drive to the OS. Is there a way I can locate where it is and move it to my m.2 windows drive?

When gaming I constatnly get notifications from Xbox game bar saying I earned points. I disabled these reward notifications in settings but they keep coming up every few minutes. Is there any way to properly disable this without uninstalling game bar?

This is a very good solution but I would hate to have the back of the fans showing at the front of the case. It has a glass front which is what restricts the airflow. I like to see my RGB unobstructed

I am hitting high 80s with my 1080 during gaming on the hotspot and 75ish on the core/GPU, same temps before and after repasting. My case does have fairly restricted front intake due to the glass panel and removing it does drop temps about 5 degrees on the CPU but I forgot to check the GPU. That is my main concern, especially as I would like to upgrade to a 40 series card around November (or when ever they come out) and that will produce a lot more heat than the 1080.

I am changing my case and want to top mount my AiO so it can be an exhaust however I am struggling to find a case that fits and has a 360 top mount. As a result I am looking to change to a 280mm AiO and wondered what experience people have had with such a hot chip and the smaller radiator. I get ~90c with a 1.220v undervolt with my restricted airflow case and fans maxed out. Will I be okay with the 280 or should I stick with the front mount in the new case?

I am looking at upgrading to the new Inwin N515 Nebula as I like how the AIO radiator has its own cooling zone. My only concern is it appears the PSU and its cables will be blocking most of the airflow behind the radiator. There is very little information on this case and the user manual does not say anything about cable management. The main reason for changing cases is to get better cooling with my 12th gen CPU. My current Corsair Crystal 460x case has very restricted front airflow for my front mounted 360 AIO (removing the front panel drops temps by >5c). Could this potential blockage cause issues with cooling? Has anyone used this case or seen it in person?

When I open the xbox game bar the frame rate drops to 1 and it is almost impossible to use any of the tools in the overlay. I have reinstalled the xbox app and game bar and everything else is up to date. Any ideas what I can try to fix this? The video shows what happens, it appears to get worse when the mouse moves FH5.mp4

I ended up not going through with the repair as the risk of sending it in outweighed the chance of the issue returning. If the fan acts up again, I will send it in but for now I am keeping it as is.

Long story short I took my old Acer Aspire One with an Atom N2600 and slapped an SSD and 4GB of RAM in it with a modified BIOS. I have installed Win 10 but the graphics driver (Graphics Media Accelerator 3600) does not work on Windows 10 and causes a blue screen when attempting to run it. The alternative is Windows Basic Display Adapter which does not support OpenGL and the few 3D apps it can run are unuseable due to the basic driver. I used to be able to run at least Minecraft on Windows 7 so would it be worth reverting back to Windows 7 where I can get the driver working or will I run in to different issues with software compatiblity due to the fact it is no longer supported? Is it worth ditching windows all together and trying Linux? One major issue is I cannot control the display brightness without the video driver so battery life is not great even though the battery is still over 80% health. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

As mentioned above, that connects to the commander core which should have come with the cooler. The core plugs into a USB port on the motherboard and may require SATA power, I cannot remember.

I've contacted them again explaining the situation. I am almost certain the issue will return, probably in the middle of a uni lecture when a loud grinding noise is not ideal. Hopefully they will be able to sort it but who knows

Yeah that is the dilemma. I will keep it on for a few hours with a light load to see if the issue presents itself. They have already arranged it to be collected tomorrow so I will have to see how it goes in the next few hours

One of the fans on my Gigabyte Aorus 15G was making a terrible noise and would not spin properly so I have been arranging a repair under warranty. As a result I have not used my laptop for a week and I fired it up today to reset it before sending it off and both fans work flawlessly. Both are smooth and quiet, even at max speed. The only thing that changed was I removed my secondary m.2 drive. Should I still go ahead and get it repaired even though it seems to work fine?

I have a bunch of spare fans that came with my H150I Capellix cooler and currently I am slightly undervolted to prevent overheating in cinebench. Would there be any benefit to adding another set of fans to my AIO for a push pull config? I have enough fan headers and room in my case so it is just a question of whether the possible gains are worth the effort.

It's in the m.2 slot and shows under connected hardware but isn't in the boot list. I ended up reinstalling windows but I still want to know what caused this. Could the bootloader have somehow become corrupt?

Ill give it a go with the front panel off just to see if it makes a difference. I checked voltages and it maxed out at 1.3

I updated my bios due to some issues I was having and I can no longer boot to windows. My boot drive isn't showing and I don't know what to do. Reinstalling windows is my last resort as Windows apps will take years to redownload. Any ideas?

Damn, I did one cinebench run and it managed to stay below 90 but after that one run, it throttles ever time. Can't be coolant temp as it is the same on different days. Hope I don't have to change my cooler for a third time...

It is at stock speeds and when I first installed the H150i it maxed out at 80 during a 10 minute cinebench run but after that, it consistently hit 100 during tests. I removed the cooler and the center third had no paste on it due to what I assume is poor mounting pressure (one standoff was loose). I reinstalled it with fresh paste but same results. I have three intakes at the front with the radiator and then 3 exhausts with 2 at the top and one at the back. My case only supports 360 at the front. The pump is set to the maximum RPM and the fans ramped up to 100% during the test but made no difference. The socket has had a lot of issues with cooler mounting (see Igor's Lab) so it may just be how it is with the "old" cooler.

Format it in disk management and you should be good to go!