Karmek

We used ROG Realbench for stresstesting.On manual mode temperatures stay at around 75°C at constant 100% usage. The most demanding workload he will have is gaming on high to highest details (1x GTX 1070, has yet to be overclocked though). He is using a double-monitor setup + mirroring one screen on his TV. He is considering a tripple-monitor setup in future (not for gaming but multi-tasking). I will ask him to check temperatures closely at gaming for now. We will find a way to tame the voltage in adaptive mode.

I gets too warm at this voltage and I am too far away from his place to monitor temperatures myself. I don't want to blow it up I guess especially since the Summers at his place are extremely hot.

Hey there, I was dialing in an overclock at my friend's PC. We are living in different locations so we were using a webcam and Skype so I could see his BIOS settings. Unfortunately I don't know his motherboard model right now but I can for sure say it's an ASUS one (will provide this asap). The CPU he's using is an Intel i7-4770K. So in the end we reached an overclock of: 4.2 GHz core clock 3.8 GHz cache clock 1.150 V CPU core voltage under air-cooled conditions (stable at ~75°C at full load) We found these setting while running with manual voltage control. However, whenever we switch to adaptive mode at max. 1.150 V (no offset) the CPU receives 1.176 V instead which is quite a lot more than what it needs. Question now is: How can we set this down so there no instability? Should we just lower the boost voltage by a few mV and check again or should we add an offset value? I only know little about the adaptive mode so I need your help. Kind regards!

Too bad I bought mine in July.

The difference is shown as inbound and outbound wattage on the screenshots (hard to see since it's in German). But I wonder why power drawn from the socket is 51W while Corsair Link measures 100W inbound and 85W outbound (85% efficiency) in idle.

Yep, I restarted after both updating and reverting back to the last version. The screenshots show values 2 min after restart and no further input. CPU usgae is ~2%, at 800-1000 MHz idle clock. EDIT: I've added some values under load and measured values from the wall. Latter ones are quite close to the result of v4.3.0.154. However, idle consumption is about 25W higher than what the socket tells me. So, can I trust the socket + updated version? Would you consider those values normal?

Hey, I updated Corsair Link today and noticed that the PSU indicates way higher power draw than before. Are you in a similar situation? I go getting an amperemeter for the wall socket in the meantime. System: Corair AX860i PSU ASUS Maximus VIII Gene Intel i7-6700K 4.5 GHz, 1.3V adaptive mode MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X 4x 8 GB DDR4 RAM 1x NVMe SSD 1x Sata HDD 4 fans Windows energy settings are set to "Balanced" Power Consumption: From the wall: Idle: ~52W Load: 190-210W v4.2.4.25 v4.3.0.154

I only wait for the next restock to finally grab one. My new rig currently runs on Intel HD. I originally planned to be ready for 4K/VR but since both are still kinda niche products I will get to 1440p soon and wait for the industry to make it more affordable. Never looked at Palit so far. Gonna check those.

Hey, So I am trying to get behind all that marketing stuff and benchmarks at the moment. after reading tons of reviews and trying to understand where the 4K/VR trend is going I too started to think that those are not getting anywhere close to the price segment many can afford (unless you don't care about looks and feature sets). GTX 1080 is nice and stuff but at 770€ the performance gain is marginal compared to the 1070 at 520€. When I only see a difference of max. 10 fps at 1440p why would you pay 200 bucks more if it's 60fps on my screen in the end? Another thing: usually having a custom PCB with better power input provides better OC stability. However, it doesn't matter where I look all cards are easily going to 2000-2100 MHz and won't go beyond regardless how much watts they draw. Again, why would I spend my cash on that if it's hardly better than stock PCB + custom cooler? At the current generation those 2 just don't make sense to me. Do you have similar opinions or do you know better and wouldn't mind teaching me and filling those gaps?

The tool handles folder directions by creating junction points as stated earlier. If you just copy installed programs around your hard drives you sooner or later run into problems like registry keys not finding required files. Also I mentioned that you can't only move steam games but every folder you like.

Something you may want to check out is Steam Mover. It basically does everything @mariushm explained in his post. The description probably doesn't mention it but this tool does not only allow you to move steam games and libraries but also every folder you like. I am using it to swap data dynamically between SSD and HDD. What to do: Install your OS on SSD Install everything else including Steam on SSD Link all your personal folders to your HDD Create a new Steam library on your HDD Install some/all games Then: Open Steam Mover Browse to the (game-) folder you want to move & select it Select the destination path somewhere on your SSD Move it! At this point the original files will be moved to the folder on your SSD. On the HDD's side at the location you normally find the just moved folder you will find a so called junction point instead which leads to the file's current location. If you finished your game and decide to put it back onto the HDD, just use the tool and revert the process. Benefits: Everything is stored locally, no need to download everything again Faster than a regular download A real blessing if you run on a dialed internet conncetion Patching games is not affected at all Easy to revert if you need space "Downsides": Compared to downloading you store way more data on your drives you might never use again Usage of your drives will increase, which may affect its lifespan

That clicking sound is normal? I was able to RMA those fans. The sad thing is they sent me 2 fans, the first one was grinding, the second one grinding and buzzing. Sounds especially painful when booting the system. Although I had a very positive experience with the Corsair support, I found the NF-A140 iPPC and ordered 2 of them right away because I am tired of poorly manufactured components. On top they offer slightly more while being ~10dB quieter. If the plan succeeds I pay once and won't have to deal with them as long as warranty lasts.

My overclock suddenly causes BSODs and Intel HD causes glitches in some games. Could this also be the PSU's fault? Average temperature always was 55-58°C.

So much for design made in Germany. Tricked by my own homeland...

I just discovered that it also struggles to recover from standby mode. Did this happen to you, as well? If so I will definately RMA the PSU and try another one.