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Special Agent 星雨

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  • Content Count

    118
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About Special Agent 星雨

  • Title
    Member

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7 8700K
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z370-E
  • RAM
    G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000Mhz CL15 4x8GB
  • GPU
    Asus GTX 1080Ti Strix OC
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R6 Blackout w/ USB-C
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 Pro 512GB SSD, Kingston SUV400 240GB SSD,Crucial MX300 750GB SSD, WD 2TB Blue HDD, 1TB WD Green HDD
  • PSU
    EVGA 850 P2
  • Display(s)
    Asus PG279Q, Asus MX279H
  • Cooling
    Deepcool Captain 360EX RGB in white
  • Keyboard
    Razer Blackwidow Elite
  • Mouse
    Logitech G903
  • Sound
    Audio-Technica ADG1X
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Professional

Recent Profile Visitors

538 profile views
  1. Special Agent 星雨

    Stabilizer keys become stiff are keycap change

    I've bought a Razer Blackwidow Elite (Razer "green" switches), and I am also aware that Razer uses non-standard bottom row key sizes, but that isn't the issue here. My left shift, right shift, back space (minor exception), enter, enter (numpad) and plus sign (numpad) all become extremely stiff during the last 25%? Of a press, the first 75% feels perfectly normal, minimal resistance, but the last part feels extremely rugged and hard, I estimate 25% because the key still actuates just as the resistance kicks in. I'm using this keycap set: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PBT-Backlit-Keycaps-104-Keyset-Backlight-Key-Caps-For-Cherry-MX-Switches-Backlit-87-104-108Mechanical/32652958572.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.79584c4drU43Gs My understanding is that if the inside of the keycap is too thick, it might cause issues with the plastic stabilizer insert? This is what it feels like so I may have answered my own question, but there's an exception - Backspace key. After changing this key's keycap, there is minimal increase in resistance, nowhere near the level of increase the other stabilizer keys experienced. I really wanted to replace the left shift key because I know it will become worn down and "shiny" after a while because I mainly play FPS and we all know how important the shift key is. What gives?
  2. Special Agent 星雨

    Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 fan issue.

    Edit - Cooler Master? I'm high as a kite, I meant Be Quiet. Thought I'd just post an update - Cooler Master Be Quiet did confirm via e-mail that you do indeed need a decoupler (this rubber thing that sits between the fan and the heatsink, the front 120mm has one by default, but there are no extras included in the box) to allow a silent wings fan to be able to work in the rear orientation, odd, considering they include metal brackets but not this decoupler? With that said, a free one is being sent out so I cannot really complain, but if others encounter the same issue just have a chat with Be Quiet customer support!
  3. Special Agent 星雨

    Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 fan issue.

    I have tried remounting the fan in a number of positions, closer to the motherboard, farther from the motherboard, all yield the same result. I have seen posts of people asking whether a third fan will help cool better, but have yet to see people encountering issues mounting said third fan on the rear side. It's definitely designed for a third fan though, in the manual it even says something like "If you wish to use a third fan on the cooler, a pair of metal brackets are provided for you.", and there's a picture of a third fan being installed, but their own Silent Wings 3 fan will not fit? I am beyond confused.
  4. Special Agent 星雨

    Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 fan issue.

    Not sure if this helps at all, but there are differences in shape between the front and rear side of the heatsink, which is what I have concluded as causing the problem.
  5. Special Agent 星雨

    Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 fan issue.

    Looking for people who use the Be Quiet! DRP4 because it seems like I'm the only person experiencing this. The cooler comes includes two Be Quiet! fans, very good performance and extremely quiet. One 135mm fan and a 120mm fan. The "default" configuration is, the 135mm fan sits between the two heatsink towers whilst the 120mm fan sits as intake on the right side of the heatsink. I'm trying to move this 120mm fan to the other side of the heatsink, but some parts if not all of the fan blades of this 120mm fan seem to be making contact with the heatsink, causing a deafening plastic to metal sound that nearly gave me a heart attack when I first heard it. One thing to note is that on the right hand side of the heatsink, there are these two rubber strips that sit between the fan and the heatsink, but if I remove those as well, and move it to the other side to be used with the 120mm fan in it's new position, the blades will instead be making contact with these rubber strips instead, solving one issue and creating another. Faulty fan? The fan itself performs perfectly fine whilst in the "default" configuration location. If I need to provide more information please comment, thanks.
  6. Special Agent 星雨

    Computer completely unresponsive (no BSOD)

    I was monitoring the tempratures during gameplay, and although higher temperatures could of course lead to instabilty, my temperatures were actually lower since I changed radiator placements for both the GPU and CPU to exhaust fan locations (previously it was intake and exhaust respectively). But it makes sense to revert everything possible change I've made that could cause instability. I will remove the overclocks when I can and test it out, thanks.
  7. Special Agent 星雨

    Computer completely unresponsive (no BSOD)

    I will try that, thanks.
  8. Special Agent 星雨

    Computer completely unresponsive (no BSOD)

    I've had my CPU running at 5.0 Ghz @ 1.33v in Cinebench, Aida64 and Prime 95 AVX/no AVX all overnight, at least 8 hours (not concurrently of course) and have found no issues, stress tests were repeated when I assembled this late last year. I do not believe a case change would result i my previously stable OCs to become not stable.
  9. Special Agent 星雨

    Computer completely unresponsive (no BSOD)

    EDIT 1 - Finished running chkdsk /f /r (C:) but realised when I finshed that C drive was actually one of the HDDs... which got me thinking that perhaps my main drive, the 970 Pro 512GB SSD is somehow not being detected hence the Windows issues? EDIT 2 - Ran chkdsk through all the other drive letters (D, E, F, G) and none of them were my 970 Pros. EDIT 3 - Attempted to reset without losing personal files, immediately resulted in error. Attempted a complete reset, same result. EDIT 4 - Checked BIOS and my Kingston SUV400 SSD had a higher priority boot order over my 970 Pro, fixed that. EDIT 5 - Currently broken out of the automatic repair loop, have successfully logged into Windows 10. Hi all, Recently (16 hrs ago) I changed my PC case from a Thermaltake View 71 to a Fractal Design Define R6. After re-assembling the crucial components I did a test boot and everything was good, so I continued to assemble the rest of the parts. However, upon loading PUBG after everything was done and dusted, I quickly noticed things started to freeze one after another when I tabbed out to look for an e-mail. First it was chrome, it became unresponsive and had that white tint over it as if that "Chrome.exe has stopp working" window would popup, but it never did. Then discord, then the file explorer and eventually the task bar, mail app and the game. Now I have the game installed on a separate drive from Chrome, but not all steam games are, so maybe there's a connection there? And I realised soon enough after many force restarts that this will happen a few minutes after booting up/logging in, no matter what I do. Is this just a pure coincidence that one of my hard drives is dying? Or have I overlooked something in re-assembly process? I currently have command promot running a chkdsk /r on all the drives (have only done 970 Pro and am doing I think the 2TB WD Blue right now), because upon going through 'Automatic Repair' multiple times at boot, Windows keeps saying something like 'Automatic repair has failed' and links me to some text log file which I can't even access since the computer doesn't boot. Specs: i7 8700K @ 5Ghz stable. GTX 1080Ti with NZXT X42/G12 @ 2Ghz stable 32GB Trisent Z RGB @ 3000Mhz C15 Asus Z370-E motherboard 1 x 970 Pro 512GB NVMe SSD 1 x 2TB WD Blue (bought early 2018) 1x 1TB WD Green (extracted from a HDD enclosure, probably like 7-10 years old) 1 x Kingston SUV400? 240GB SSD 1 x Crucial MX300 750GB SSD EVGA 850 P2 PSU A shit ton of Asus Aura Sync RGB fans 2 fan controllers inside the case, including the one that comes with the case. CPU, GPU, motherboard power cable extensions from CableMod. Fractal Design Define R6 Blackout w/ USB-c Any further information needed PLEASE ask
  10. Special Agent 星雨

    IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL BSOD

    I will re-test the stability of my CPU OC and RAM XMP profile, my RAM is rated at 3000Mhz C15 so I'd be pretty stumped if it can't actually run at 3000Mhz. I have made sure I have installed all available drivers from Asus' website. I have downclocked my CPU to 4.9Ghz @ 1.344v and it hasn't BSODed/crashed in 2 hours now, fingers crossed.
  11. Special Agent 星雨

    IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL BSOD

    I was thinking the same, what if my OC wasn't actually stable, even though I tested it for 12 hours straight under Prime 95 no AVX. I have it running at 4.9Ghz @ 1.344v now and we'll see how it goes.
  12. Special Agent 星雨

    IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL BSOD

    I had keyboard issues in the last few days where, for example, when I tap the "A" key to move left in a game, I would not move, but after two to three seconds the computer thinks I'm holding down A for a while so I'd move left for about three seconds. This issue was also evident when I was typing up a word document, where the computer seemed to just lag and not respond to keyboard inputs. I changed my keyboard thinking it was a hardware fault, and the problem persisted, so I decided to reinstall Windows 10 Pro (2 days ago). Since reinstalling it, I also checked my Motherboard's available BIOS versions, and noticed there is a more recent version of the BIOS, so I downloaded and flashed that as well. Now I am getting the IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL BSOD once every few hours, which you might imagine is really annoying. OS - Windows 10 Pro 64 bit What OS was originally installed on the system? Windows 10 Pro Is the OS an OEM version? No, I bought it and installed it myself It is a Desktop PC, not a laptop. Age of system - OS SSD is about 2.5 years old, the rest of the specs: i7 8700K - Less than 3 months NZXT Kraken X62 - Less than 2 months Asus Z370E motherboard - Less than 3 months G.Skill Trident Z RGB 2x8GB 3000Mhz C15 - 11 months GTX 1080Ti Strix OC - 6 months GTX 1070 Strix OC - 3 months EVGA 850 P2 PSU - 8 months Crucial MX300 SSD - 14 months Kingston SUV400 (OS) SSD - 30 months and a bunch of RGB fans/LEDs which shouldn't be related I think it's safe to assume my system's age is definitely not the cause of my problems, especially considering they've only started since reinstalling Windows 10 two days ago. Link to Perfmon report, I had an error whilst running the report so I had to locate it manually and compress it. Link to all the files: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjELlpBfXuDNgcMHIHE0vPBAR2d-0A Link to the graph shown by Performance monitor: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjELlpBfXuDNgcMHIHE0vPBAR2d-0A Link to SysnativeFileCollectionApp report: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjELlpBfXuDNgcMFwLbr4U8i4CiEPA Hopefully I included all the relevant info. EDIT*: My i7 8700K is delidded and OC'd to 5.0Ghz @ 1.344v. It was completely stable before so I don't think it's the reason for my troubles, but it's still worth pointing out. RAM is at 3000Mhz under XMP 2.0.
  13. Special Agent 星雨

    Constant IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL BSOD

    Ran the built in Window ram test program and it has come up with nothing multiple times (>10), so I'm confident my ram is fine. Mobo BIOS is running the latest version.
  14. Special Agent 星雨

    Constant IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL BSOD

    Specs in signature below. I'm running Windows 10, also running latest BIOS available for the Asrock X370 Taichi motherboard. All Windows updates have been installed as refreshing the update page in the Settings app tells me Windows is up to date. Recently been having some BSODs, and it has happened six times in the last 30 minutes. Before it used to be completely random, maybe once a week but it has suddenly gotten worse without me doing anything. BSOD tells me to search online for "IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL", but everyone seems to have a different circumstance, which is why I have come here. As instructed, link to my minidump files below, earlier ones were deleted because I ran Ccleaner and accidentally deleted those (I assume), hopefully these files can still get me some help. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0Y5V7IwmzBmX3RWNDFjVWhJMVU/view?usp=sharing I have: - Reset Windows (kept personal files) - Completely restored Windows - Changed through 10 Nvidia GPU drivers for the 1080Ti - Removed ALL overclocks that were applied to my GPU/CPU and these have not made a difference with the exception of the first two. After resetting/completely restoring the blue screens stopped for about a day or two, then immediately came back to BSODing every few minutes after booting into Windows 10. I have tried to run the perfmon /report command in Command Prompt (Admin) but it comes up with an error saying "Error: An error occurred while attempting to generate the report. The Data Collector Set or one of its dependencies is already in use." I have tried running it in safe mode, but executing the command says it cannot find the file specified, I have followed numerous methods on the internet as to how to solve this, I've been to services.msc to change some services to start automatically etc. but they have not made a difference, so hopefully not including a report won't make too much of a difference. Please help!
  15. Special Agent 星雨

    Moving OS from one SSD to another

    My current 120GB SSD is dying, I know this because I had four MEMORY_MANAGEMENT BSODs within 30 minutes. It BSODs when I try to run a game off the SSD (I have PUBG, and a few other games installed), which is the reason why I'm wanting to temporarily move EVERYTHING from this SSD to a 750GB SSD (that is currently in use) before I pick up my NVMe SSD some time next week. What programs do I need to use to do this? Will I need to wipe everything from the 750GB SSD for this to work? I assume I can't just Ctrl + C everything in the 120GB SSD then Ctrl + V it to the 750GB SSD.
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