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Special Agent 星雨

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  • Content Count

    125
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About Special Agent 星雨

  • Title
    Member

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7 8700K
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z370-E
  • RAM
    G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000Mhz CL15 4x8GB
  • GPU
    Asus GTX 1080Ti Strix OC
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R6 Blackout w/ USB-C
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 Pro 512GB SSD, Kingston SUV400 240GB SSD,Crucial MX300 750GB SSD, WD 2TB Blue HDD, 1TB WD Green HDD
  • PSU
    EVGA 850 P2
  • Display(s)
    Asus PG279Q, Asus MX279H
  • Cooling
    Deepcool Captain 360EX RGB in white
  • Keyboard
    Razer Blackwidow Elite
  • Mouse
    Logitech G903
  • Sound
    Audio-Technica ADG1X
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Professional

Recent Profile Visitors

800 profile views
  1. Hi, I'm looking to change from my 8700K to the new R7 3700X (for lower temperatures, plus my 8700K doesn't OC that well), which means no more iGPU, which is what I used to stream with. I have a 1080Ti that I stream off but if I'm playing in borderless mode I can feel an occasional stutter here and there. Would say, adding a GTX 1050 or even GT 1030 (preferably does not require PCI-e connectors) help? Would this even work since my monitors will be plugged into my 1080Ti? Hard to find any information on this as most people just deal with streaming off CPU, iGPU or dGPU. I am more interested in a smoother gameplay rather than higher quality stream, as it's mostly for friends to watch. Much appreciated.
  2. Maybe in the future when we get access to better internet here. Here in Australia we pay $80 AUD/month (~$55 USD/month) for 50 mbps download and 20 mbps upload. At these speeds even my powerline adapter can provide full download speeds. Deca adapters sound great but probably won't be utilized fully, not here at least.
  3. I could but then it would need to be run through two living rooms and a kitchen, which I already know will not be supported by the rest of the family. I have resorted to using Wi-Fi to stream, and use my powerline adapter for the rest. It has been working well so far.
  4. I only have one pair of sockets in my room. Things I have tried: another room in the house where the adapter was plugged straight into the wall (same effect, stops working once high upload bandwidth is being used) using the adapters in a newly built (<2 years) apartment, no issues. I think its safe to conclude that the electrical wiring in my house is the culprit, which is quite a shame. Guess I'll have to use Wi-Fi when I need to stream.
  5. ' At the modem's end, it is plugged directly into the wall socket. Unfortunately, in my room I cannot do that, as it will also occupy the other, only free socket, meaning I'll be left with no access to electricity. So I guess this + old electrical wiring are the two potential causes for my situation.
  6. I am not sure, but based on the style/building material it looks to be 20-30 years old. My guess is also that the old electric cables in my house are at fault. Hopefully I can confirm this by taking my adapter to a newer house and using it there.
  7. TDLR at bottom. I'm not sure how to describe this, other than saying it's quite bizarre. I recently bought a D-Link DHP-701AV PowerLine Ethernet Adapter, and it's been working great. I use this because I recently moved to a different room in the house, and despite getting 3/5 bars of Wi-Fi, the speeds are slow and ping spikes occur every 10 minutes, making gaming impossible. With this adapter I can now achieve ~40 mbps down and ~20mbps up on my 50/20 connection (Australia, shit tier internet). However, here is where it gets interesting. Whenever I stream content to Twitch, Youtube and even Discord screen sharing, my PowerLine adapter will shit itself. The PowerLine icon on the adapter will begin blinking red a few minutes after I start streaming, and I will lose all connection until I power down one of the two adapters and power it up again (effectively re-establishing the connection?). This happens at all times of the day, no matter if its 4am or 12pm or right now, 3PM. This happens on my desktop and laptop. If I'm downloading at full speed there are no problems at all, so what causes this behaviour when streaming/using high upload bandwidth? My only guess is that the electrical stuff in this house is too old? Can't think of another reason and Googling this hasn't resulted in anything. TLDR: Powerline adapter shits itself if I'm streaming (or presumably doing anything upload heavy).
  8. I've bought a Razer Blackwidow Elite (Razer "green" switches), and I am also aware that Razer uses non-standard bottom row key sizes, but that isn't the issue here. My left shift, right shift, back space (minor exception), enter, enter (numpad) and plus sign (numpad) all become extremely stiff during the last 25%? Of a press, the first 75% feels perfectly normal, minimal resistance, but the last part feels extremely rugged and hard, I estimate 25% because the key still actuates just as the resistance kicks in. I'm using this keycap set: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PBT-Backlit-Keycaps-104-Keyset-Backlight-Key-Caps-For-Cherry-MX-Switches-Backlit-87-104-108Mechanical/32652958572.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.79584c4drU43Gs My understanding is that if the inside of the keycap is too thick, it might cause issues with the plastic stabilizer insert? This is what it feels like so I may have answered my own question, but there's an exception - Backspace key. After changing this key's keycap, there is minimal increase in resistance, nowhere near the level of increase the other stabilizer keys experienced. I really wanted to replace the left shift key because I know it will become worn down and "shiny" after a while because I mainly play FPS and we all know how important the shift key is. What gives?
  9. Edit - Cooler Master? I'm high as a kite, I meant Be Quiet. Thought I'd just post an update - Cooler Master Be Quiet did confirm via e-mail that you do indeed need a decoupler (this rubber thing that sits between the fan and the heatsink, the front 120mm has one by default, but there are no extras included in the box) to allow a silent wings fan to be able to work in the rear orientation, odd, considering they include metal brackets but not this decoupler? With that said, a free one is being sent out so I cannot really complain, but if others encounter the same issue just have a chat with Be Quiet customer support!
  10. I have tried remounting the fan in a number of positions, closer to the motherboard, farther from the motherboard, all yield the same result. I have seen posts of people asking whether a third fan will help cool better, but have yet to see people encountering issues mounting said third fan on the rear side. It's definitely designed for a third fan though, in the manual it even says something like "If you wish to use a third fan on the cooler, a pair of metal brackets are provided for you.", and there's a picture of a third fan being installed, but their own Silent Wings 3 fan will not fit? I am beyond confused.
  11. Not sure if this helps at all, but there are differences in shape between the front and rear side of the heatsink, which is what I have concluded as causing the problem.
  12. Looking for people who use the Be Quiet! DRP4 because it seems like I'm the only person experiencing this. The cooler comes includes two Be Quiet! fans, very good performance and extremely quiet. One 135mm fan and a 120mm fan. The "default" configuration is, the 135mm fan sits between the two heatsink towers whilst the 120mm fan sits as intake on the right side of the heatsink. I'm trying to move this 120mm fan to the other side of the heatsink, but some parts if not all of the fan blades of this 120mm fan seem to be making contact with the heatsink, causing a deafening plastic to metal sound that nearly gave me a heart attack when I first heard it. One thing to note is that on the right hand side of the heatsink, there are these two rubber strips that sit between the fan and the heatsink, but if I remove those as well, and move it to the other side to be used with the 120mm fan in it's new position, the blades will instead be making contact with these rubber strips instead, solving one issue and creating another. Faulty fan? The fan itself performs perfectly fine whilst in the "default" configuration location. If I need to provide more information please comment, thanks.
  13. I was monitoring the tempratures during gameplay, and although higher temperatures could of course lead to instabilty, my temperatures were actually lower since I changed radiator placements for both the GPU and CPU to exhaust fan locations (previously it was intake and exhaust respectively). But it makes sense to revert everything possible change I've made that could cause instability. I will remove the overclocks when I can and test it out, thanks.
  14. I've had my CPU running at 5.0 Ghz @ 1.33v in Cinebench, Aida64 and Prime 95 AVX/no AVX all overnight, at least 8 hours (not concurrently of course) and have found no issues, stress tests were repeated when I assembled this late last year. I do not believe a case change would result i my previously stable OCs to become not stable.
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