For

BIOS 2 boots fine with no updates whatsoever guess bad chip on BIOS 1

DW always good to be idiot proof (especially in the troubleshooting forum) Tried downloading again and flashing again and nothing. Left the USB in for 5 minutes no luck. I can try the slightly older bios for the R5E and I can try using bios 2 if I can figure out how to get it to switch to using bios 2.

Tried USB BIOS flashback no luck, now it won't even power on (no CPU fan spinning etc.) LEDs still the same but no 00 error anymore. Tried unplugging the power, tried flashing again and again. No luck. How long does it usually take to flash it? The LED on the button flashed only 3 times and then it stopped (indicating it's done) does it normally go this fast?

updating the UEFI is done by putting a FAT32 usb in the usb-bios flashback port with the CAP file on it and then pressing the button with the power connectors on right?

Rampage V Extreme, 5820K and DDR4 arrived today. Put it all together and it won't boot/post. The asus error code display shows 00 which according to the manual isn't even used for an error code. The 4 GPU leds are also being weird (the ones next to the PCIe switches) the first one doesn't turn on, the second and third led are always on and the 4th led is blinking (regardless of which slot the GPU is in and even when I leave it out). The only other leds blinking are the BIOS led and the CPU led next to the mobo connector. I have tried all the different PCIe slots and checked all the cables and connectors. Tried a different GPU but it didn't work either. Does not appear to be posting without a GPU either. The GPU works fine on my old mobo, so it can't be the GPU. Tried booting without GPU and RAM but still same LED weirdness and 00 error code (no error codes about lack of memory either) tried all 8 slots for the RAM without a GPU and still nothing. I added the ram to the correct slot (A1 for the R5E the left most slot since I only use one stick of 4GB DDR4) I made sure the CPU was in the right way and the thermal paste and cooler are on properly. Does anyone know what it could be?

I have a question about the order of the loop, my plan is to go from the pump (bottom of the case) up to the GPU, then to the CPU then to a radiator (highest point of the loop pretty much) then from the radiator to the top of the tube res I have back to the pump. Would this cause any issues bleeding or trap air? Normally loops go down from the cpu to gpu would it matter if I did it my way?

Planning to watercool my gaming rig after a CPU/mobo/ram upgrade. Need some people to check and make sure I have everything I need. Going to watercool a haswell-e CPU once they are out along with the mobo assuming there will be an all in one block to cool both and a 7990 from a single front mounted 360/420 radiator, want to use a pump/tube res combo and soft tubing. Budget is not an issue the goal is to get my PC watercooled, when gaming it doesn't have to be quiet but at idle I want it to be quiet which should be possible with PWN controlled fans via asus' AIsuite or maybe directly from the uefi. Case: Fractal Design Define XL R2 Removed the optical bays and the little metal bar between the radiator mount area and the optical drives to make room for a 360 or 420 radiator. CPU: intel 5820k Mobo: Rampage 5 Extreme Going to assume there will be an all in one waterblock for CPU/mobo for the R5E that'll need 2 fittings. Ram: probably 4-8GB of generic as cheap as possible ddr4 that will be way overpriced because bleeding edge price premium. GPU: asus 7990 Watercooled via EK 7990 block that I already have here because it might have gone out of stock before I'd have gotten the chance to buy it. Pump/tube res combo: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16075/ex-res-366/Bitspower_Dual_Single_D5_Top_Upgrade_Kit_250_-_Clear_BP-D5TOPUK250AC-CLCL.html#blank It says it doesn't come with a pump or pump top. What is a pump top/what does it do? Which pump top is the one they use in the picture? Will this work with any D5 pump? What else do I need to take into consideration to make this pump/tube res combo work? Radiator + fans: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18794/ex-rad-491/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Triple_140mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html or http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16238/ex-rad-411/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Triple_120mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html 120 or 140? I heard 120 has better fan options but I am probably going to get the noctua industrialPPC ones and if I recall they have pressure optimized fans for both 120 and 140mm. Are there better fan options for thick rads like the monsta? The reason I am going with the monsta is because I'll have to cool quite a bit with just one radiator and even though I am not overclocking anything cool components are still nice to have. Also since I won't need HDDs (going for either a ghetto mounted ssd behind the mobo or an m2 ssd) or 5.25 inch bays I have all the room in the front for an 80mm thick rad. Getting a second radiator to mount on the top of the case is not an option I want to stick with one big radiator in the front. Fittings and order of the loop: best I could come up with was: rad -> res/pump -> CPU/mobo -> GPU -> rad But that would require a long tube from the pump going behind the radiator to the CPU/mobo block as well as a long-ish tube from the GPU to the radiator. Alternatively I could do: rad -> CPU/mobo -> GPU -> res/pump -> rad This way I have 3 medium sized tubes going from the GPU to the res, the pump to the rad and the rad to the CPU. If I were to choose the latter I could also get a smaller pump/tube res combo (the 150 instead of 250) so that the GPU -> res tube would be a straight horizontal line. As far as fittings go I was thinking of going with these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10032/ex-tub-600/Bitspower_G14_Thread_14_ID_x_38_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBCPF-CC1.html Depending on the loop I'd need a few 45/90 degree fittings or maybe even 30/60 so I haven't bothered to check which ones I need because maybe one of you guys knows a better loop order. If I am correct I'd need 8 fittings in total (2 CPU/mobo, 2 GPU, 1 res in, 1 pump out, 2 rad) or do I need one of those SLI fittings to connect the res/pump as well? I haven't thought of how I am going to mount the pump/res yet I'd guess my best option is to mount it on the rad with one of those adapter brackets? Which other options do I have? Any tips, hints or other things I should think about are appreciated.

Also about the throttling, one thing I did notice was that once I turn the fan speed down a lot (35% or lower) it will start to turn up the fans to try to keep the temperature below 100C even though MSI afterburner is still set at 35%. If I had to describe it I'd have to say it's kind of like it's coughing, short blasts of turning up the fan speed (to 100% if I had to guess based on the sound) looking at those graphs from earlier it seems like the throttling does something similar.

That's possible I do have 3 140mm fans just sitting here currently, however how would that work airflow wise, if I put them on the side pushing air into the gpu they will fight with the fans on the cooler, if I use them to suck hot air out that means there is nowhere for the fans to get new cool air from since they intake air from the bottom (which would be sucked away by the fans pushing the hot air out) I do that too sometimes but there is 3 problems with that. 1) I can't keep my window open 24/7. 2) It will make little to no difference in the spring/summer/fall 3) rain, if the wind blows from the wrong side it'll blow rain into my room giving my pc a shower. Also pretty sure increased moisture content in the air because of rain is bad for a pc regardless.

no yes no that is my verdict. Atm it's not a real currency, it'll stay stable for a while and become a bigger and bigger deal as more and more people start using it. Then bitcoin inevitably crashes and no one will use cryptocurrancies for anything other than illegal purchases on the internet. Maybe it will be real for a while but it's doomed to fail imo.

http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:qRTNbKwNKjUJ:www.overclock.net/t/1196856/official-amd-radeon-hd-7950-7970-7990-owners-thread/11120+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk

should be around 800W max, which comes down to 1 euro and 50 cents a day. So about 500 euros a year, but I am not planning to mine after 2014 because difficulty.

There will be one slot between them.

1. will it be noticable for mining tho, mining is different from gaming and with the single 7990 all I had was crashing because of the heat no throttling at all. 2. Or not, a lot of temperature changes (hot cold hot cold) will lower the life (because of expanding/shrinking of the components), a card that is rated at 120C will not die any faster when it's running at 100C compared to 50C if I understand things correctly. 3. Fair point. How do you mean? Get an office fan and point it at the open case I have the radiator mounted in the front as intake blowing cool air to the gpus.

7990 litecoin miner reporting in. I have mine running at 45% fanspeed, 900Mhz core, 750Mhz memory (made 0Kh/s difference with 1500Mhz and temps dropped 5-10 degrees), I managed to undervolt it to 1000 mV, I can run them as low as 900 mV but as soon as I open anything (internet browser etc.) the display driver crashes and mining stops. I have it running in a fractal design define XL R2 and I have removed the sidepanel to keep temps down (87C on gpu1, 80C on gpu2), with the sidepanel on it was either running the fans at 70% to keep the same temps or cards overheating constantly.

I should note I have my 7990 underclocked to 900 Mhz core and 750Mhz memory, undervolted to 1000 mV.

Hello once again guys, so I am currently mining litecoins with a single 7990 in my fractal design define XL R2 (with the sidepanel open), fans at 45% temps stable at 87 and 80C on gpu1 and 2. I was planning to upgrade to two 7990s once haswell-e comes out anyways but I am also planning to watercool my build by then. So 7990s are no longer being made and hardly in stock as is, if they are completely gone by the time haswell-e is out I'll get two 280x's and run that in quadfire. However I got my eye on a new 7990 that is dropping in price rapidly I am considering buying it with some of the money I got from mining with the single 7990, but heat issues. I tried mimicing the airflow restrictions by stacking a few things to the height the second 7990 would be at and in order to run it at 95C I had to turn the fans up to 70% (which is pretty loud) I am assuming it will run 5-10C hotter than that when there is an actual 7990 underneath it and not dummies. I can live with running the cards at 95C they are made for a max of 120 and constant cycling of temps is what damages cards in the long run not just how hot they get, I can live with turning the fans up to 60%. My question to you is if I end up buying the second 7990, what can I do to lower temps? Take it out of the case and put the motherboard on a horizontal surface so it has better airflow for the gpus? I cool my cpu with an H220 so I can have that blow cool air directly at the gpus if I take it out of the case. What other options do I have? Does someone with more experience know if it's possible to remove the automatic shutdown of windows once the gpus hit 100C, does it matter if the GPUs run at 110-115C constantly instead of 90C? What other cooling options do I have other than aftermarket cooler/watercooling?

http://youtu.be/Z2ROOZS1DtQ?t=55m58s sorry for the late reply, also looking back it seems to be more like a modded keyboard then a custom one. I have looked all over the internets and pretty much all webshops that sell them won't get new stock for greens until next summer, managed to get one with blue switches for now, hopefully they will have RGB leds in the ducky shines by the time I need/want a new one. I think RGB leds would be great for ducky shine keyboards since it would get rid of a lot of the fragmentation. Might end up replacing the blue switches with greens, but for now blues will have to do.

shameless self bump

NCIX has them with green switches and blue LEDs. http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=87096

Hello once again LTT forums, I have been known to ask for the impossible in the past and I have returned to do so once again. This time looking for a fullsize Ducky Shine 3 with green switches and white LEDs. I have been looking all over the place but no store that ships internationally seems to have them (live in the netherlands) Do you guys by any chance know where I can find one and/or how I might be able to get one. I know slick managed to get a "custom" ducky keyboard from one of the livestreams at some point, how did he manage to get it?

Generally speaking they do come with enough plugs. There will be enough plugs for all but two of the holes in the radiator since you will be needing those two for in and out.

My 7990 had massive coil whine at first. As you said sounds like a dog whistle, giving you headaches etc. However a couple of days later it was gone, completely gone I didn't touch the clocks or voltages and played the same games. If it's not too late yet try messing with the clocks and volts a bit, apparently some cards will have less/no coil whine with some random clock/volt combos. Maybe you are lucky and there will be no coil whine with an overclock.

I think 140mm rads have a bigger dead spot in the centre as well so performance wise it may actually not make a difference. I'd go with 120mm unless you want to go for a dead silent build with low FPI rads and want a little extra performance. But if you wanted t build you are probab better off with a define series case and a 120mm rad.

Someone should make a coolant named "blood of a virgin", I bet lots of people would buy it, even if it's just the most generic red coolant.