steffeeh

Any further thoughts?

Turns out I forgot to save some changes so the list was wrong, I've fixed it now

No gaming on this build, just casual usage and watching content.

Been planning this build for quite some time, and in an hour or two I'll order all the parts. This will be my dad's new PC, aimed at regular home usage, office tasks, Netflix and YouTube streaming (to the TV as well), etc - doing these things quietly. To keep things as quiet as we desire, we'll go with a semi-passive CPU cooler, as well as a semi-passive PSU. Along these I have some Be-Quiet fans lying around here at home to shove into this build. For now we'll stick to 1080p using the internal graphics, but when the day come where he buys a 4k TV, we'll add in a multimedia GPU to match more modern IO as well as matching the required minimum 3GB VRAM for 4k Netflix (long story short). Here's the build list Some notes: - A single 250GB SSD is more than enough storage. He only uses around 110GB, and it's not increasing. In worst case scenario, I have an HDD lying around. - The very fine PSU is because it happened to be on sale and all cheaper ones weren't on sale. - The mobo only has 2 fan headers, so I'll grab 2 Y-cables - We'll go with a dual memory config to get dual channel for the internal graphics. - Some people have said we should go with the stock cooler, but we don't want that one, so no need to mention that once again Let me know your thoughts. Will the CPU cooler, RAM, and a potential GPU work without interference? That's my main concern right now. Note that we're in Sweden, so pricing and availability is different.

Viewing charts everywhere seem to indicate that the stock cooler is pretty bad in terms of noise output at idle, so I'll skip that one. Everything else is extra quiet (PSU plus fans I have lying around), and we live in a quiet environment so it would pretty much be the one thing sticking out in noise. I've added GamMAXX 400 to the list

I'm finalizing a PC build which I'll order tomorrow on Black Friday. The PC is aimed at regular home usage (browsing, Netflix, etc) with a Pentium G4620, so very little heat will be generated from the CPU. However the PC is aimed to be very silent, so I've decided to go with an aftermarket cooler. As there will be barely any heavy load on the system, I'm trying to find the CPU coolers with the lowest noise level at minimum RPM within my price range. What I'll do is setup a fan curve letting it run at idle/minimum until it reaches a given critical temperature where it will ramp up quickly in case of "ermergency", so it will run at this low RPM probably 99% of the time. I've found a couple of interesting coolers, and my plan is to keep track on all of them and then buy the one that gets the best price on BF. So my intent with this thread is to sort out any cooler not suitable for me. Here are those that I'm considering: - Deepcool GamMAXX 300 - Deepcool GamMAXX S40 - Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo - Arctic Freezer i32 - Be-Quiet! Pure Rock Note that I'm in Sweden, so if you have suggestions on other coolers, be aware that we may not have them here. My PC case have roughly 160mm of clearance for the cooler (Fractal Design Define Nano S). Here's the full build list

I thought the 350W/300W was just the same PSU but without modularity, and lower wattage? I mean they're both called Pure Power 10.

It technically can, but there seem to be a 3GB minimum graphic memory requirement to stream 4k Netflix, not sure though if that includes RAM in the case of the iGPU. Though we'll probably still need to grab a GPU when moving to 4k due to some issues. In the case of something similar to a GTX 1050 or 1050ti in this system, would generally the fan on a 300W PSU spin up ta lot during streaming?

Would 300W be enough if I were to add in a multimedia GPU in the future for 4k Netflix? Probably next gen Nvidia, basic GPU with 3GB VRAM to match Netflix requirements.

I did check the tier list but I couldn't find anything (might have missed it). The CX450 seems too loud IMO.

I've already decided on what PSU to buy for now, but I want to list some alternatives if one of them were to go on sale on Black Friday instead of my current one. I've currently decided on the Be Quiet! Pure Power 10 CM 400W, which seems to be reliable enough for this build, and also silent enough (which is important in my scenario). However I've also found the following alternatives: - Be Quiet! Pure Power 10 350W - EVGA Eco Mode B3 450W Are these viable options?

I've used HitFilm as well, it's pretty good. Can't remember if I've tried DaVinci Resolve though.

I'm building a PC, which you can view here: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/steffeeh/saved/MKnyf7 The usage will be regular home/office usage, as well as streaming Netflix, YouTube, etc - so no heavier loads. This PC is aimed to be quiet. At first I decided on the Corsair PSU, but now I'm looking at other ones as well, and now I'm deciding between these two. The Corsair CXM one is known and praised for its quality, while the Be-Quiet one has good noise levels for its price. So I have praised quality but average noise levels, vs average good quality but great noise levels. However here on LTT forums, they're both in the same tier (tier 3). On Tom's Hardware, the Corsair CXM is even one tier below the Be-Quiet Pure Power 10 (tier 4 vs tier 3)... but the Corsair CXM is still in the list of 2017 best PSUs, also by Tom's Hardware. Would this build even benefit from the superior build quality of the Corsair PSU with its low load? We've had plenty of prebuilt PCs through the years, and none of them have died on us despite being used for long times (one is still being used after 7 years with similar usage), so I don't know if the Corsair PSU is overkill for this setup.

How are the thermals on the Corsair vs the Be-Quiet? Also, if you want to you can suggest other PSUs within that pricerange/wattage, but I can't guarantee I can find them easily here in Sweden.

I realized I haven't even mentioned the use case scenario - it will just be a regular home/office/netflix PC, so no heavier load as with games. My bad!

I'm looking for a semi-modular (or fully modular) power supply in the range of 400-500W. This is for a quiet PC, so noise levels are important. But most important of course is reliability. I first decided for a Corsair CX450M, but now I've found other units, and I don't know which one is better. I'm in Sweden so pricing is different than in the links. Here are all the contestants: - Corsair CX450 - EVGA 500 BQ - Fractal Design Integra M 450W - Be-Quiet Pure Power 10 CM 400W (bit more expensive) - Cooler Master G450M

Long story short, I have a build I'm planning, and I found a case that seems to match my needs. The only thing is that it's from 2011, and I don't know if that makes it a bit too old to invest in today, or if it's still relevant these days. Here you have it: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-mini

CARBON NANOTUUUUUUUUBES

You shouldn't blindly follow overclocking tutorials. Overclocking is about acquiring the knowledge and knowing what you're actually doing and why you're doing it. I'd suggest you remove the OC for now, go and read about it, and then come back and do it manually - one step at a time, i.e first CPU OC until you're certain it's stable, and then the memory. Here's some good reading for the moment: http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/384756-How-Overvolting-Works-The-Dangers-of-Overvolting-and-quot-Safe-quot-Overvolting-Technique http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-1800828/intel-temperature-guide.html

I don't know how to read that speed in Task Manager, but could be that 667MHz is the actual RAM clockspeed, which is half of the RAM bandwidth, i.e 1333MHz. Are you sure you've enabled the AMD equivalent of XMP, and are not running at JEDEC default?

All chips are different in how far they can overclock. What stress test did you use? You could try and up the voltage to 1.245V and see how it goes for thermals. Do you overclock in the BIOS and with fixed voltage? Out of curiosity, what motherboard do you have?

1. Generally, when you go above 1.3V you enter the greyzone, when you get to 1.35V you're at the recommended maximum among most 24/7 overclockers. Though I've seen people go even higher, but that's only if you're well experienced. If you're new, settle down for 1.25V-1.3V for the moment until you gain more experience - if your thermals allow it. 2. Depends on what test you ran to check the temperature. There is more or less a given standard for testing outlined here, but many consider it overkill so there are many preferred methods. I personally fire up my most heat delivering realisitc PC usage, let it run for 10 min to warm the PC up, and then monitor the temperature for 10-15 min. Then look at the calculated average temperature on the cores, while also looking at any potential nasty spikes. For Intel, 80C is generally the recommended maximum temperature. 3. 5 min is too little. What stress test to use is personal preference, but stick to 10 min minimum when checking if an OC increase is stable. Maybe 30 min if you're skeptical. Then once you've settled for a final OC and want to see if it's long term stable, fire up a torture test like Prime95 (with desired FFT size and software version) for several hours - if that passes, you're most likely good to go. Or you could do like lazy me and just have 2 week testing period with regular usage - if it passes, then it's probably stable too... buuuut that's not the regular way to do it 4. No, not in that manner. All chips react differently, so for instance some extra voltage at a specific level might not do much for heat, but add just a hint more and OH MY GOD THAT'S TOO HOT

Now I got another BSOD: Faulty Hardware Corrupted Page Only change since last time is that I have uninstalled AI Suite 3, but was 1-2 weeks ago.

I think they'll be announced by the end of the month, but then we have the low stock issues with Coffee Lake, so not sure when you'll be able to get your hands on one. Spec wise the flagship Pentium will be +200MHz and +1MB L3 cache over the Kaby Lake ones, i.e 3.9GHz boost and 4MB L3 cache. However it still has the HD630 internal graphics. If that spec jump is worth it is up to you. I'm myself in a similar scenario like yours, and I'm not sure if I'll grab the new gen. I'm waiting for black friday, so I'll just grab the best offer at that time, as I don't think there will be much gain between the G4620 and the G4720 for my use case scenario.