steffeeh

I did a larger Windows update and suddenly there has been a new audio driver installed on my laptop, a Conexant one, and I can't seem to revert back to the standard High Definition Audio Device driver from Microsoft. Been googling but couldn't find anything useful. I'm pretty sure it's a piece of cake to fix.

Anyone?

So I've come to realize that I need a wireless gaming headset, for when I do couch gaming or surfing and I need to be quiet, so I can't use the speakers. I will mainly use my pair for gaming, but music may happen too - and given the purpose of the headset I'm not too nitpicky of the sound quality as long as the audio is decent with a good enough depth. I'm neither that nitpicky about the microphone, though of course I don't want my voice to sound like trash to others I'm gaming with. I'd prefer headphones without sound dampening so I can hear myself speak. My PC is around 3-4 meters from the nearest USB-port on my PC, so the wireless need to reach that distance, preferable with some headroom as well. My budget is up to around 1300 SEK ($160). Note that I'm in Sweden, so pricing and availability may differ. So far I've found these after doing a quick search on various stores: - SteelSeries Arctis 7 - Logitech G533 - Corsair Void Pro - Kingston HyperX Cloud Alpha Pro (I believe this one is both wired and wireless?) Though I'm open for suggestion as well.

First thing that comes to mind is that a 960 Pro SSD is kind of overkill, as it's only intended for specific usage (unless you know you really need it for your editing). You could swap to a large Samsung 850 Evo for similar price, or use a similar size but save money. Also, I'm not sure if that would be the case, but I would get a graphics card with dual fans, hopefully the fans won't ramp up as much when under load.

The stock cooler will be enough technically, but loud. I'd suggest investing in an aftermarket cooler, you don't have to spend that much on it if you don't plan on overclocking, just take your time and find the one that does proper cooling at most quiet levels. Though you should really ask yourself if you really won't overclock, as many times the answer may turn out that you probably will with such processor.

Asking for a friend, who wants to overclock his GPU, the R9 390 (non-X). He asked me for advice to OC his card, however I'm only used to newer Nvidia cards, where you just maximize the power/temp target and core voltage and then start dialing the OC, as the maximum allowed voltage and power settings are hardware capped. How does this work on this AMD card? Can he also maximize the sliders and just dial in the OC?

Not sure why it's not properly showing the largest apps if they're on the 120GB SSD, but you could try downloading WinDirStat and see if that shows it properly.

You'd see a similar stability scenario as when increasing the clock speed without touching the voltage. If the CPU receives way too little voltage then sure it probably won't even boot, or at least crash pretty quickly when launching any heavy application. But no you won't see any performance loss unless you haver to downclock the CPU. There are people who are feeding their CPUs too little voltage on purpose to cut down the heat and therefore fan speeds, and therefore noise levels (for instance on some laptops) - this is called undervolting.

You only need NVMe drives for very specific workstation purposes, so go with the 1TB 850 Evo. I have one, and it's a blessing.

In light of the recent security issues Spectre and Meltdown, various instances have said that there may be important BIOS updates coming soon with bandaid fixes. I've also seen people comment that ASUS have released BIOS updates with the bandaid fixes. However looking at the support for my ASUS X99-A motherboard, I find no newer BIOS version than early december previous year. Will there be any new BIOS update for this motherboard in the near future?

I just built a PC for my dad, with an MSI B250i Gaming Pro AC with the B250 chipset, in a Fractal Design Define Nano S. I'm currently running on the latest BIOS, with all drivers up to date. It turns out now that one of the two front USB 3.0 ports isn't working. Have I run out of USB ports? Or is there something wrong that I can fix? I know that when I built the PC I put the extra effort in making sure all cables were properly plugged in as good as I could.

The stock voltage is always safe and stable for the stock clock. If not, then you should ask for a replacement (though that's probably never the case). For overclocking, I can only suggest you do some reading on it as you seem new to it. Here are some links to CPU voltage, and recommended temperature: http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/384756-How-Overvolting-Works-The-Dangers-of-Overvolting-and-quot-Safe-quot-Overvolting-Technique http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-1800828/intel-temperature-guide.html

I had this issue several weeks ago already when Fall Creators Update came out, apparently ASUS are working on it, and there seem to be a beta testing at the moment of the new patch. Hopefully the fix will be out in the near future. In the meantime I use SpeedFan, which I hate setting up but it gets the job done for now.

Well just like how all chips behave differently when increasing the voltage to sustain overclocks, all chips also behave differently in how much below stock voltage you can go before the stock clock becomes unstable. Just decrease it incrementally and do the same stresstesting approach as you would when overclocking. Repeat until failure, where you dial the voltage back up a step and try a longer stresstest until it's long term stable. That being said, why would you want to undervolt your CPU when you're on a 360 radiator with safe thermals?

The only difference for the sockets themselves is the pin count: socket 1151 has 1151 pins, and socket 2066 has 2066 pins. There is no difference between their performances, they're only aimed at different tiers of processors to provide the necessary support for them to function. The reason why 2066 socket motherboards (X299) are more expensive is because they're within the prosumer platform, aimed to go with much more expensive high end CPUs, as well as including more unusual features. ...aaand the fact that they're simply overpriced.

Right now it's sitting with just too little voltage to be able to spin, so that it can quickly activate once temp reach a certain point. I guess this is also no problem?

Long story short, some complications has forced me for now to run a PWM fan in DC mode. I kind of like the result, so I might let it run that way instead. However, can you run a PWM fan in DC mode, or could it be harmful for the fan in the long run?

My laptop is from 2012 or so, his laptop too.

I'm going on vacation soon. I thought that me and my brother could do some LAN gaming Minecraft in case of boredom during our stay. The only problem is that we generally will have no internet on the vacation. Is it possible to connect an ethernet cable between our laptops and play together? Both of our laptops have an ethernet jack.

Solid State Hard Drive Meaning it's not spinning anymore?!

"Mac computers can't get virus infected"

Or just realize that you really don't need another mechanical keyboard and stick with what you have.

I'd say go down to a GTX 1070 and you'll still have plenty of headroom for future heavier games in 1080p, spend the freed up cash on a boot SSD.

This is why ALL overclocking motherboards should come with a physical switch for enabling extreme overvolting

Are you noticing any loss of performance since you built the PC as new games are released, or do you want to invest into higher tier? If no to both, then stick with what you have for now. Only buy things because you need them for something.