DELTAprime

I actually have a story of customer support that involves both Asus and another LTT sponsor, Cablemod. Maybe this is because I'm in Australia and we have super strict consumer protection laws, but I actually had a good interaction with Asus customer support about this situation back in January. My TUF 3090 had the Cablemod PCIE 8-pin cable going to it burn in the GPU's power socket. I had no idea of the extent of the damage at this point, but I emailed Asus questioning them about repairs and also the fact that I had watercooled the card with an EK waterblock and how that might complicate things. I also emailed Cablemod since it was their cables. The thermal pads Asus were using at the start of the 30 series were basically single-use-only pads and were destroyed by removing the default cooler and putting the waterblock on. The Asus rep said that they would replace the thermal pads and put the default cooler back on the card for me under warranty. So I wouldn't need to worry about a charge for that. Cablemod on the other hand denied that there was anything wrong with their cables despite including pictures of the burnt connector. The plastic had clearly been subjected to high temperatures as it had changed from black to a dark red colour. In the end, I found that the card itself was fine and just needed the charring from the burned power cables cleaned off the pins on the GPU side of the power connector so I never got to test out Asus on their offer to cover the thermal pads and reassembly of the card under warranty. But I was totally annoyed at Cablemod for denying that there was an issue.

I have a TUF 3090 from the Ampere launch. I loaded up Fortnite and my screen, an Alienware QD-OLED DWF went black and there was a no input error on the display generated by the monitor. The system still seemed to be running despite the lack of display. After a reboot I reinstalled the drivers but the same thing happened when I loaded up Fortnite again. After another reboot though I'm now getting error code D6 on my MSI Q-Code and the VGA light is lit up on the board. Did my 3090 just die or are there other things I should check? Note that my system is custom water cooled, so disassembly for troubleshooting isn't trivial.

The blue LEDs have faded in most of my Mag Lev fans, and at this point I'm happy enough to replace them with some nice black fans instead of more LED fans. Plus, a couple of them have a rattle after years of use. They predate this case by at least two years.

I'm going to replace my Corsair Mag Lev fans with some Noctua Chromax's. This is in a Corsair 5000D Airflow. For the intakes without a rad, is it best to go with the same static pressure fans that are on the rads of go with airflow optimised fans on those intakes? Thanks.

Ok, it's not black, but it's only $99 AUD and from the GN review I just watched it seems really impressive. Thanks.

Hi. I'm building a secondary PC out of old and new parts. It will be used for capture, streaming and video editing. I'm after a black tower cooler that can keep the 5900X cool, stay quiet, but also not overkill. I know I could just get a NHD15, but that's probably in the overkill category. The case is the full sized Fractal Torrent and the cooler needs to clear 4 sticks of G.Skill Trident DDR4. Thanks.

@CPotter Are there any active Dbrand codes or links I can use to support you guys when I order some skins for my Z Fold 3?

I have a Corsair HX750 Platinum in a system I will be dropping a 3090 into later this week. I am aware many PSUs are having their OCP tripped by 3080s and 3090s due to transient power draw spikes. I do plan to upgrade to a HX1200 in the future, but I'm kinda putting it off. Is the HX750 a good enough PSU to deal with the spikes a 3090 causes or will I need to do that upgrade to the HX1200?

I have several Corsair K70s with various Cherry switches. However, after years of using them I've realised I frankly suck at typing on them. Gaming on them is perfectly fine, just I make so many errors on them when typing. The only type of keyboard I've ever not made a tonne of errors on is the Apple chicklet style keyboard. Can someone recommend me a chicklet keyboard for typing on (not gaming) that preferably still has some PCMRness to it?

Have there been widespread reports of the EVGA cards crashing? EVGA has made it impossible to google thanks to everyone reporting on EVGA's official response.

Ok thanks for your help. I'll add the extra rad next time I do maintenance. I'm also going to replace the fans when I do that, the Corsair LL fans are ok, but not amazing.

Been a while since I looked at what temps I'm getting. I was in the high 50s on the 2080 Ti and I'm not sure what I was on the 3900X. I did the watercooling upgrade to learn how to do it and have some fun, not to get super low temps. I'm happy just to have my 2080 Ti be able to maintain a boost of around 1900 to 2000mhz without dropping. Also for the 500D SE ignore the front mount rad position. You can't fit a rad in the front and still have room for a res unless you go for a super compact pump res combo like the XD3. You are basically limited to a 280mm in the top and a 120mm on the rear. If a 120mm rad in the rear will add cooling capacity I'm happy to do it next time I do maintenance. Again, I'm not doing this for super low temps, that said I'm not opposed a few degrees lower temps.

Both. My setup is Res > GPU > CPU > 280mm Rad. Thinking of going Res > GPU > 120mm Rad > CPU > 280mm Rad.

I have a system with a 2080 Ti and 3900X right now cooled by a 280mm rad in a custom loop. I was wondering if adding a 120mm rad into the loop, which is the only additional cooling I can add in the Corsair 500D SE would actually add much cooling capacity to the loop too accommodate for future GPU and CPU upgrades as wattages increase?

I haven't gotten an assignment in days. I really hope more people are able to set up servers like LTT did.