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About Dioneyesos

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    The other side of the screen


  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-8700K @5Ghz
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z370-A Pro
  • RAM
    32 GB Corsair DDR4 3500Mhz
  • GPU
    Overclocked EVGA 1070 SC
  • Case
    NZXT S340
  • Storage
    1TB Samsung 970 Evo and lots more HDD storage
  • PSU
    Sharkoon WPM500
  • Display(s)
    2x 27" LG FHD 1x 34" LG UltraWide
  • Cooling
    Corsair H115i Pro
  • Keyboard
    Corsair Strafe MK2
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502
  • Sound
    Some mismatching speakers
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

Recent Profile Visitors

371 profile views
  1. I used 3.5mm to 2 6.3mm. Makes a lot of noice though....
  2. Hi all, I have something of a struggle right now. First let me describe my situation. I have 2 Behringer Studio 50USB speakers on top of my desk. I have a Jamo Sub 210 below my desk connected to an old amp, there are two more speakers connected to the amp, they don't sound that great anymore so I only use them for base sounds in conjunction with the sub. So basically all the amp does is base sounds. Behringer speakers on top of the desk do the rest (not that great for base sound). I have the Behringer speakers connected via USB, they also have XLR and 6.3 jack input. I have tried connecting them with the 6.3 and some cables I had laying around so they would work with the 3.5mm input from the computer. However this made some horrible noises and thus they receive their input via USB. The amp only has RCA input so I use a simple 3.5mm to RCA cable for that, works great. But for Windows to output to both audio devices I need to run some kind of software. Currently I'm using VoiceMeeter Banana to do this. And I must admit it kinda works fine. It's just that I would like to have some hardware control over volume. Now I have to move my mouse over to VoiceMeeter and change the volume, not a problem when watching a video etc. But when gaming this is quite impossible to do. Now I was looking into getting some kind of Mixer that would solve my issue, but I'm not sure it can actually do what I want it to do... I don't have enough knowledge about audio stuff to find it out myself. I hope one of you could point me in the right direction! If there are any questions or things that need clearing up I will gladly provide any I can. Sorry for my bad English, I'm Dutch Greetings Dioneyesos
  3. I'm not sure how much power mine uses. But if I'm being honest, I don't care. I know my setup (got 3 monitors and a bunch of speakers & a amp connected) will use a lot of power. But I live with my parents so I'm not the one paying for is Maybe when I'm a bit older and move into my own place I'll be more careful with how much power everything consumes but probably not ?
  4. Okay thanks, this gives me a lot less stress. I don't care too much about because in like a year I'm going to replace it anyway but I don't want to actually ruin the chip. Might be a NAS or pc for my little brother. Might become a little paper weight, only time will tell
  5. yup fan curve is on silent, takes a bit before the fans start ramping up. And I might have done a little more then just YT, no gaming or anything heavy though cuz was through remote desktop and I don't know if you've ever tried it but it's not great. And that is if you can get your game to launch on a remote display adapter. Mounting pressure should be good, with 78C I don't think there is a cooling issue if you consider what cpu is being cooled
  6. So no harm will come to my chip if this runs 24/7? And is there some option or tweak I can do to slowdown the clock speed? just for my own satisfaction Would it be better if I put it to static on 5GHz or could this be damaging?
  7. I don't know why, but it keeps doing this (just idling, not been using it for the whole time) It always does this, when temps spike so does cpu usage (logically) Just don't know why or what's using it. Haven't been able to figure that out yet 5 minute stress test I hope this is at least a bit useful
  8. Tipped 74 while just doing stuff like YouTube etc. I'll run a quick stresstest and share the results
  9. Idle temps, everything on auto. Running an Corsair i115H pro (factory thermal paste) but please take the temps with a grain of salt because I'm currently accessing my computer through remote desktop and not everything works the way it should (like iCue doesn't find my keyboard or the i115H) I feel like temps are all over the place compared to when I just use my computer. I don't think all the software is working as it is supposed to.
  10. Hi all, I have a i7-8700k running at 5GHz. It's stable at stock voltages, I haven't changed anything this time. All the voltages are on auto but they don't go crazy high so that's fine I think. I have the core clock set to variable, and in the past the core clock would just go down to like 2GHz if it was idling. But a since I changed the OC from 4.9 to 5.0 it just "stays" there. Not exactly 5GHz, it makes a few drops to like 4.7 for a second. In the spoiler is a screenshot from Aida 64 showing clock speeds and voltages. To me this all seems fine. I just want to know if this will hurt my chip in the long run? I would say no because voltages are the same or close to stock but I wouldn't consider myself an expert on overclocking... Kinda hoping someone here could tell me it it's safe to run this 24/7 (yes my computer is running 24/7) and if not is there any other option I might be able to change to get it to clock down and thus lowering voltages?
  11. works for 1920x1080@75hz so I would assume it works for 1920x1200@60hz
  12. I use a similar cable and it works just fine for me. So I'm not sure why it would work
  13. It probably would yes. But I've had personal experience with adapters that were rated at 1920x1080@60hz and they DO NOT work with anything higher then that. Also had the experience the other way around, rated at 1920x1080@60hz and working fine with 2560x1080@75hz so it's a gamble, I think you should just try it tbh