Ok, this is my first hardline water-cooled build, personally, I think I did OK - I've learnt a lot for next time but here it is (It looks Blue in the pics but in person it actually is White)
Ok, this is my first hardline water-cooled build, personally, I think I did OK - I've learnt a lot for next time but here it is (It looks Blue in the pics but in person it actually is White)
Ok, this is my first hardline water-cooled build, personally, I think I did OK - I've learnt a lot for next time but here it is (It looks Blue in the pics but in person it actually is White)
Ok, this is my first hardline water-cooled build, personally, I think I did OK - I've learnt a lot for next time but here it is (It looks Blue in the pics but in person it actually is White)
Ok, this is my first hardline water-cooled build, personally, I think I did OK - I've learnt a lot for next time but here it is (It looks Blue in the pics but in person it actually is White)
Ok, this is my first hardline water-cooled build, personally, I think I did OK - I've learnt a lot for next time but here it is (It looks Blue in the pics but in person it actually is White)
Ok, this is my first hardline water-cooled build, personally, I think I did OK - I've learnt a lot for next time but here it is (It looks Blue in the pics but in person it actually is White)
Per the manual for your case, EK's recommendation will work or you could switch locations of the 280 and 360 as well.
The PE (the 360) series rads are 38mm thick plus 25mm for fan thickness = 63mm combined thickness. The CE (the 280) series is 45mm thick plus 25mm for fan thickness = 70mm combined thickness. It looks like your case uses a removable radiator mounting bracket so you'll need to add the thickness an offset caused by that as well.
Measure down from the mounting point (more than likely bracket location) while accounting for width and make sure that the 280 rad wont hit anything on the motherboard such as VRM heatsinks or anything around that area.
To simplify this, EK makes a pump / res mount that simply bolts to the fans or fan mounting locations on the radiator depending on your air flow configuration. I use two of these mounts myself, one for each pump and they allow mounting of the pumps to either the fan or the rad. I believe they only work with 120mm fan mounting points, so this would require that you go with the 360mm up front as recommended by EK in the first place.
The mounting bracket along the backside and under the pump / res pictured here is the separate mount that I'm talking about, which must be purchased from EK separately.
The concentrates have the distilled water to concentrate ratio printed on the bottle. You simply add the appropriate parts of each to a clean empty container and shake them up before adding to the loop. Generally, one bottle of concentrate is enough for a small to average size loop, but why spend this kind of money just to short yourself on fluid. Get two to be safe.
Yes, all EK fans are PWM and can be dropped in speed.
If you get their Vardar ER (Extended Range) fans like those you have listed, they can drop in RPMs even lower then the standard Vardar fans when at idle loads. My ER fans run as low as 400 RPMs without issue, but scale all the way up to 2200 RPMs if needed.
I have had bearing noise problems with two of my EK Vardar ER fans, which I replaced with new ones, so just a heads up that it can happen. When I contacted EK about it, they gave me the impression that it was something I needed to take up with the retailers. I wasn't impressed.
In all fairness, I have 25 Vardar fans in my case, so that's less then 10% that had the issue. I'll let you judge if that's acceptable. Other than that small hiccup, they've been perfect for over a year.
You can incorporate this valve into an existing pipe / hose run in your current design near the bottom of the loop by inserting a Y splitter at some point with the extra port going to the valve / drain hose.
Yes, provided that the total amperage drawn from all the fans on that splitter / fan header do no exceed the total capacity of the single fan header. Most newer Asus boards can accommodate up to 1 amp on a fan header and some even more. You can get away with even more on one fan header if using a powered splitter or powered distribution block. Just remember to avoid mixing 3-pin DC fans with 4-pin PWM fans on the same splitter to the same fan header. It will work, but all fans will run at their max speed without any type of speed control available.
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